CXB3590 1500W

Danielson999

Well-Known Member
Robin has some sweet looking passive heatsinks in stock. I'm wishing I didn't buy from heatsinkusa now but oh well. Hopefully they will be around for the next project.
 

sgarcata

Member
@64%
(8 ) CXB3590 3500K CD @ 700mA (23W ea) $380
(1) HLG-185H-C700 $65
184 dissipation W ->66W heat ->
passive cooled heatsink 7920cm² -> 4.23"X44" $68 (could split these into 2 or 4 units)
or
active cooled heatsink 2640cm² -> 3.5"X36" heatsink (for spread) $45 + 80mm fan + psu $10
active cooled heatsink 2640cm² -> 1.8"X44" heatsink $34 + 80mm fan + psu $10
(8 ) lenses $32
117.8 PAR W covering 6ft² = 879 PPFD
117.8 PAR w covering 7ft² = 754 PPFD
$545 = $4.63/PAR W passive cooled (great option if your area is high electrical cost, Hawaii, NYC, SoCal etc or if your grow is already heat limited and you want to increase yield without running more AC, ducting and fans)
$532 = $4.52/PAR W active cooled 3.5"
$521 = $4.43/PAR W active cooled 1.8"
Supra, was this for a 5 x 5 space?
 

sgarcata

Member
The worms seem to like inhabit the bottoms of the bins so most of their castings accumulate on the bottom, easy to harvest. This lump is from the bottom of a decently mature bin. Neutral smelling, damp but not soaked, soft to the touch and has a higher PPM level than my most fertile soil mix. Brews very good microbial teas. Black gold can't get enough of this stuff LOL
How do you separate the worms from the castings? and do you do anything to the castings to be sure not to get worms or worm eggs into your grow soil?
I have a lot of happy worms (they really love avocado shells, BTW) but have a devil of a time harvesting the castings.
 

MeGaKiLlErMaN

Well-Known Member
I'm really on the fence right now between a cxb3950 3500k or 4000k.. Leaning a bit to the 80CRI 4000k for efficiency. That said running that at 1.05A would be quite nice.

Also did you ever hear about MechaTronix? I was looking for passive heatsinks and came across it.
Here are some photos of a 57W one

Oh and only $17.79 each :)
 

Attachments

dom-one dela nooch

Active Member
Here are some units you could scale up to fit your space. To some extent, you can adjust the coverage by adjusting the distance to canopy.

@45.7%
(2) CXB3590 3500K CD 36V @ 2.5A (91.65W ea) $95
(2) HLN-80H-36A $90
183 dissipation W -> 99.37W heat
(2) Arctic 64 Plus CPU coolers $26
(2) lenses $8
83.63 PAR W covering 5 ft² = 749 PPFD
$219 = 2.62/PAR W

@49.7%
(2) CXB3590 3500K CD 72V @ 1.05A (75.5W ea) $95
(1) HLG-185H-C1400 (running at ~1050mA) $65
151 dissipation W -> 76W heat ->
passive cooled heatsink 9120cm² -> (2) 10"X10" heatsink $75
or
active cooled heatsink 3040 cm² min -> 3.5" X 30" heatsink (for spread) $40 + 80mm fan+psu $10
or
(2) Arctic 64 Plus CPU coolers $26
(2) lenses $8
75 PAR W covering 4ft² = 840 PPFD
75 PAR W covering 5ft² = 672 PPFD
$243 = $3.24/PAR W passive cooled
$218 = $2.91/PAR W active cooled on bar heatsink
$194 = $2.59/PAR W active cooled on CPU coolers (uniform spread, best value?)

@ 56.3%
(4) CXB3590 3500K CD 36V @ 1.4A (49W ea) $190
(1) HLG-185H-C1400 $65
196 dissipation W -> 85.7W heat ->
passive cooled heatsink 10284cm² -> 5.88" X 38" heatsink $72 (could split in 2 to improve uniformity/spread)
or
active cooled heatsink 3428cm² min -> 3.5"X36" heatsink (for spread) $45 +80mm fan +psu $10
(4) lenses $16
110.3 PAR W covering 6ft² = 824 PPFD
$311 = $3.07/PAR W passive cooled (great value point IMO, very efficient use of driver)
$326 = 2.96/PAR W active cooled

@61.2%
(5) CXB3590 3500K CD 36V @ 1.05A (35.5W ea) $237.50
(1) HLG-185H-C1050 $65
177.5 dissipation W -> 68.9W heat ->
passive cooled heatsink 8268cm² -> 4.9"X36" $70
or
active cooled heatsink 2756cm² -> 3.5"X36" heatsink (for spread) $45 + 80mm fan + psu $10
(5) lenses $20
108.63 PAR W covering 6ft² =
$392.50 = $3.61/PAR W passive cooled
$377.50 = $3.48/PAR W active cooled

@64%
(8 ) CXB3590 3500K CD @ 700mA (23W ea) $380
(1) HLG-185H-C700 $65
184 dissipation W ->66W heat ->
passive cooled heatsink 7920cm² -> 4.23"X44" $68 (could split these into 2 or 4 units)
or
active cooled heatsink 2640cm² -> 3.5"X36" heatsink (for spread) $45 + 80mm fan + psu $10
active cooled heatsink 2640cm² -> 1.8"X44" heatsink $34 + 80mm fan + psu $10
(8 ) lenses $32
117.8 PAR W covering 6ft² = 879 PPFD
117.8 PAR w covering 7ft² = 754 PPFD
$545 = $4.63/PAR W passive cooled (great option if your area is high electrical cost, Hawaii, NYC, SoCal etc or if your grow is already heat limited and you want to increase yield without running more AC, ducting and fans)
$532 = $4.52/PAR W active cooled 3.5"
$521 = $4.43/PAR W active cooled 1.8"


So in summary, the higher the efficiency goes, the more appealing passive cooling is. Less wires, less moving parts, less points of failure for about the same cost.
Here are some units you could scale up to fit your space. To some extent, you can adjust the coverage by adjusting the distance to canopy.

@45.7%
(2) CXB3590 3500K CD 36V @ 2.5A (91.65W ea) $95
(2) HLN-80H-36A $90
183 dissipation W -> 99.37W heat
(2) Arctic 64 Plus CPU coolers $26
(2) lenses $8
83.63 PAR W covering 5 ft² = 749 PPFD
$219 = 2.62/PAR W

@49.7%
(2) CXB3590 3500K CD 72V @ 1.05A (75.5W ea) $95
(1) HLG-185H-C1400 (running at ~1050mA) $65
151 dissipation W -> 76W heat ->
passive cooled heatsink 9120cm² -> (2) 10"X10" heatsink $75
or
active cooled heatsink 3040 cm² min -> 3.5" X 30" heatsink (for spread) $40 + 80mm fan+psu $10
or
(2) Arctic 64 Plus CPU coolers $26
(2) lenses $8
75 PAR W covering 4ft² = 840 PPFD
75 PAR W covering 5ft² = 672 PPFD
$243 = $3.24/PAR W passive cooled
$218 = $2.91/PAR W active cooled on bar heatsink
$194 = $2.59/PAR W active cooled on CPU coolers (uniform spread, best value?)

@ 56.3%
(4) CXB3590 3500K CD 36V @ 1.4A (49W ea) $190
(1) HLG-185H-C1400 $65
196 dissipation W -> 85.7W heat ->
passive cooled heatsink 10284cm² -> 5.88" X 38" heatsink $72 (could split in 2 to improve uniformity/spread)
or
active cooled heatsink 3428cm² min -> 3.5"X36" heatsink (for spread) $45 +80mm fan +psu $10
(4) lenses $16
110.3 PAR W covering 6ft² = 824 PPFD
$311 = $3.07/PAR W passive cooled (great value point IMO, very efficient use of driver)
$326 = 2.96/PAR W active cooled

@61.2%
(5) CXB3590 3500K CD 36V @ 1.05A (35.5W ea) $237.50
(1) HLG-185H-C1050 $65
177.5 dissipation W -> 68.9W heat ->
passive cooled heatsink 8268cm² -> 4.9"X36" $70
or
active cooled heatsink 2756cm² -> 3.5"X36" heatsink (for spread) $45 + 80mm fan + psu $10
(5) lenses $20
108.63 PAR W covering 6ft² =
$392.50 = $3.61/PAR W passive cooled
$377.50 = $3.48/PAR W active cooled

@64%
(8 ) CXB3590 3500K CD @ 700mA (23W ea) $380
(1) HLG-185H-C700 $65
184 dissipation W ->66W heat ->
passive cooled heatsink 7920cm² -> 4.23"X44" $68 (could split these into 2 or 4 units)
or
active cooled heatsink 2640cm² -> 3.5"X36" heatsink (for spread) $45 + 80mm fan + psu $10
active cooled heatsink 2640cm² -> 1.8"X44" heatsink $34 + 80mm fan + psu $10
(8 ) lenses $32
117.8 PAR W covering 6ft² = 879 PPFD
117.8 PAR w covering 7ft² = 754 PPFD
$545 = $4.63/PAR W passive cooled (great option if your area is high electrical cost, Hawaii, NYC, SoCal etc or if your grow is already heat limited and you want to increase yield without running more AC, ducting and fans)
$532 = $4.52/PAR W active cooled 3.5"
$521 = $4.43/PAR W active cooled 1.8"


So in summary, the higher the efficiency goes, the more appealing passive cooling is. Less wires, less moving parts, less points of failure for about the same cost.
Here are some units you could scale up to fit your space. To some extent, you can adjust the coverage by adjusting the distance to canopy.

@45.7%
(2) CXB3590 3500K CD 36V @ 2.5A (91.65W ea) $95
(2) HLN-80H-36A $90
183 dissipation W -> 99.37W heat
(2) Arctic 64 Plus CPU coolers $26
(2) lenses $8
83.63 PAR W covering 5 ft² = 749 PPFD
$219 = 2.62/PAR W

@49.7%
(2) CXB3590 3500K CD 72V @ 1.05A (75.5W ea) $95
(1) HLG-185H-C1400 (running at ~1050mA) $65
151 dissipation W -> 76W heat ->
passive cooled heatsink 9120cm² -> (2) 10"X10" heatsink $75
or
active cooled heatsink 3040 cm² min -> 3.5" X 30" heatsink (for spread) $40 + 80mm fan+psu $10
or
(2) Arctic 64 Plus CPU coolers $26
(2) lenses $8
75 PAR W covering 4ft² = 840 PPFD
75 PAR W covering 5ft² = 672 PPFD
$243 = $3.24/PAR W passive cooled
$218 = $2.91/PAR W active cooled on bar heatsink
$194 = $2.59/PAR W active cooled on CPU coolers (uniform spread, best value?)

@ 56.3%
(4) CXB3590 3500K CD 36V @ 1.4A (49W ea) $190
(1) HLG-185H-C1400 $65
196 dissipation W -> 85.7W heat ->
passive cooled heatsink 10284cm² -> 5.88" X 38" heatsink $72 (could split in 2 to improve uniformity/spread)
or
active cooled heatsink 3428cm² min -> 3.5"X36" heatsink (for spread) $45 +80mm fan +psu $10
(4) lenses $16
110.3 PAR W covering 6ft² = 824 PPFD
$311 = $3.07/PAR W passive cooled (great value point IMO, very efficient use of driver)
$326 = 2.96/PAR W active cooled

@61.2%
(5) CXB3590 3500K CD 36V @ 1.05A (35.5W ea) $237.50
(1) HLG-185H-C1050 $65
177.5 dissipation W -> 68.9W heat ->
passive cooled heatsink 8268cm² -> 4.9"X36" $70
or
active cooled heatsink 2756cm² -> 3.5"X36" heatsink (for spread) $45 + 80mm fan + psu $10
(5) lenses $20
108.63 PAR W covering 6ft² =
$392.50 = $3.61/PAR W passive cooled
$377.50 = $3.48/PAR W active cooled

@64%
(8 ) CXB3590 3500K CD @ 700mA (23W ea) $380
(1) HLG-185H-C700 $65
184 dissipation W ->66W heat ->
passive cooled heatsink 7920cm² -> 4.23"X44" $68 (could split these into 2 or 4 units)
or
active cooled heatsink 2640cm² -> 3.5"X36" heatsink (for spread) $45 + 80mm fan + psu $10
active cooled heatsink 2640cm² -> 1.8"X44" heatsink $34 + 80mm fan + psu $10
(8 ) lenses $32
117.8 PAR W covering 6ft² = 879 PPFD
117.8 PAR w covering 7ft² = 754 PPFD
$545 = $4.63/PAR W passive cooled (great option if your area is high electrical cost, Hawaii, NYC, SoCal etc or if your grow is already heat limited and you want to increase yield without running more AC, ducting and fans)
$532 = $4.52/PAR W active cooled 3.5"
$521 = $4.43/PAR W active cooled 1.8"


So in summary, the higher the efficiency goes, the more appealing passive cooling is. Less wires, less moving parts, less points of failure for about the same cost.
hey buddy ,,,,,thanks for the info ,,,,,,,,,i have a 6.8 inch x 39.3 inch 20 fin heatsink and i am putting on 10xcxb3070s 3.5k bb bin .on a hlg240 700b driver ,,,,,,,my math is not great and think i got enough heatsink for passive but not sure could you tell me if i could run this heatsink passive and what the ppfd numbers would be in a 2x5 tent .i will send you a link of my uk heatsink profile and i be most greatful for any help http://www.bal-group.com/heatsink_detail/52
 
Last edited:

yoda954

Well-Known Member
Hi friends

I need your help in choosing LED drivers for my cxb3590
I currently have 2 panel (2 x 4 cxb3590 36v and 2 x drivers mean well HLG-185H-1400B)
This was in a 5 x 3 grow tent
but I changed my 5 x 3 grow tent to 4 X 2 grow tent
so the panels will be too powerful for this one

What would be best?

1) 240 Watt with (1 X HLG-240H-36) parallel connection
2) 300 Watt with (2 X HLG120H-C1050) series connection
2) 300 Watt with (2 X HLG150H-36) parallel connection
4) 320 Watt with (1 X HLG-320H-36) parallel connection
5) 320 Watt with (1 X HLG-320H1050) series connection

hoping for the quick help
thank you very much
 

yoda954

Well-Known Member
Yes I'm sure. I would use at least 400 watts in a 2x4.


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general purpose LED is consumed less than HPS ^^

if I let 400W cxb
it is as if I had 400wtt HPS :/

This brings to my interest to change the drivers to consume less ^^
 

PerroVerde

Well-Known Member
Yes I'm sure. I would use at least 400 watts in a 2x4.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
400 watts of CXB 3950 at 56% efficiency in a 8 square foot area would give you a PPFD of around 1250...

I would lean a bit more in the direction of 2 hlg 120 1050 at 61% efficiency. 8 COBs for a PPFD of around 1020 with 100 less watts... :)
 
Last edited:

kmog33

Well-Known Member
400 watts of CXB 3950 at 56% efficiency in a 8 square foot area would give you a PPDF of around 1250...

I would lean a bit more in the direction of 2 hlg 120 1050 at 61% efficiency. 8 COBs for a PPDF of around 1020 with 100 less watts... :)
Doesn't negate the fact that he will pull more with his current setup than the one you described, plus it wouldn't cost an additional couple hundred dollars. Plus it's not like the light would be wasted in that space. So the ~$5 a month difference in electricity that the 100 watts you are taking about, how long would it take to pay off the extra parts he's need to add? Even if it's just the drivers plus shipping he's looking at around $100 on top of what he's already spent? 20+ months to pay off costs to downgrade the light in your space for a slight efficiency boost on paper. The situation you described would be less light at higher efficiency, meaning at a 20-30% decrease in yield for more money and an electric bill that's around $5 cheaper.

That doesn't make sense to me.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

PerroVerde

Well-Known Member
Doesn't negate the fact that he will pull more with his current setup than the one you described, plus it wouldn't cost an additional couple hundred dollars. Plus it's not like the light would be wasted in that space. So the ~$5 a month difference in electricity that the 100 watts you are taking about, how long would it take to pay off the extra parts he's need to add? Even if it's just the drivers plus shipping he's looking at around $100 on top of what he's already spent? 20+ months to pay off costs to downgrade the light in your space for a slight efficiency boost on paper. The situation you described would be less light at higher efficiency, meaning at a 20-30% decrease in yield for more money and an electric bill that's around $5 cheaper.

That doesn't make sense to me.




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I think 8 cobs and two drivers will cost you about the same. I have 400 watts of cobs in 10.7 square feet and I have to dim and raise my light at times. I have a PPFD of 940 and it's a bit much, equal or better then the 600 hps I had in this area before with far less heat. No offense intended, just another option... :)
 

kmog33

Well-Known Member
general purpose LED is consumed less than HPS ^^

if I let 400W cxb
it is as if I had 400wtt HPS :/

This brings to my interest to change the drivers to consume less ^^
No, leds are more efficient in a better spectrum. Watts are watts. A 400 watt hps would not adequately cover a 2x4 IMO. A 600 is better in that space. 2x4 and 3x3 are very close to the same surface area but in a square there are better reflective properties, so the fact that you're in a rectangle means the light is not distributed as evenly or efficiently as in a square. 400 watt hps for a 2x2-2x3, 600 watt hps for 2x4-3x3, 1000 watts for 4x4-5x5. So you can cut down from those numbers with high efficiency cobs, but for flowering I would still aim for ~50watts per square foot, which means 400 watts min in a 2x4.

With LEDs you can use less to pull the same amount in theory, but IMO it's better to use the benefit of less heat and added yield with the same amount of power.


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kmog33

Well-Known Member
I think 8 cobs and two drivers will cost you about the same. I have 400 watts of cobs in 10.7 square feet and I have to dim and raise my light at times. I have a PPFD of 940 and it's a bit much, equal or better then the 600 hps I had in this area before with far less hear. No offense intended, just another option... :)
He already has panels built...so any cost is additional.

Are you pulling 2lbs with your 400 watts of cobs in that space? Because if you're not, you're not doing Better than a 600 can. But you're doing better in your setup because you're having an easier time keeping the rest of the system/environment balanced.

Not saying this is your situation, but a lot of the guys that are getting into cobs are so fixed on paper efficiency they don't realize that it gets really stupid at somepoint.

In your space of you used 500 watts instead of 400, and you pulled an additional 150grams+ from the added $5 a month. Now say you harvest 4 times a year. That's 600 grams a year you'd have that you don't currently.

So for $60 in electricity for the year, you have several thousand dollars in additional product. Efficiency is cool and all. But when your taking about 100 watts, you're not really taking about saving electricity/money, because you're not.

Huge setups with hundreds of thousands of watts.... Absolutely, when you hit 1000 watts your adding $30-50 a month to your electricity depending on if you're in veg or flower. And IMO if you're worried about $5 a month on your electric bill, you probably shouldn't be growing pot, it's fairly energy demanding.




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Last edited:

kmog33

Well-Known Member
In not attacking you personally perro if that's how I'm coming off, just pointing out a bit of the redundancy in some of the paper efficiency necessity lol.


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PerroVerde

Well-Known Member
In not attacking you personally perro if that's how I'm coming off, just pointing out a bit of the redundancy in some of the paper efficiency necessity lol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
No brother, my bad. I didn't comprehend even though I read the op. It happens, I lock on to a part of something and become obtuse to key points... lol
 
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