canndo
Well-Known Member
Not pictures, show how one would test your hypothesis. You might want to restate it for us who haven't a clue.
how to grow mushrooms the easy way
- Thread starter canndo
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Not pictures, show how one would test your hypothesis. You might want to restate it for us who haven't a clue.
canndo
Well-Known Member
And I would enjoy your explaining what else I or we have wrong on this thread.
I can always learn something new. Y friend, cubes are the weeds of mycology. . They grow in spite of the grower, not because of him. They are probably the easiest mushroom on the planet to fruit.
I can always learn something new. Y friend, cubes are the weeds of mycology. . They grow in spite of the grower, not because of him. They are probably the easiest mushroom on the planet to fruit.
canndo
Well-Known Member
You did no such thing. You said I and others were misleading new people.
Now this is one of the most t read threads in hallucinogenics. Many people have succeeded using this method. I spent some time composing it. Frankly, coming on the thread and simply accusing the composer of being wrong without explanation is, well, rude.
You have yet to explain yourself. This dick wagging contest does not do readers any good nor does it cast you in a good light. You haven't posted your own Tek, you haven't explained, you haven't done anything but sit on the side lines and tell everyone how great you are.
Most people simply find a method that suits them and duplicate it. Some advance toore sophisticated approaches, some ramp up, doing the second thing over and over.
No problem with that at all, but when these people use their repetition as a basis for their expertise, that is a problem.
I didn't stop. I wanted to know what was real amd what was superstition. So I tested hypotheses.
I know what I know as a result of those tests, not speculation, not simply parroting others speculation because when I began doing this there were no "others", there was no internet, we few had to learn it all from scratch.
Now. I have read most of what Roger rabbit has said on such subjects and I have read much of that site. I agree with rr on many things but he is no more perfect than I nor I him.
He postulated that "dunkimg" was a function of osmosis yet claimed that osmosis was caused by pressure differentials. It isn't, it operates on differences of salinity or saturation of fluids. He is no expert on such things but it is evidence of speculation, not fact.
I will grant you that soaking fully colonized substrates tends to have a stimulating effect on fruition but that effect is still unknown.
Have you ever simply weighed a conized substrate before and after soaking? Gee. Try it and you will find the difference is miniscule.
So why does it have the effect it does?
Now you do us all a disservice by simply sayimg this rudimentary response to pf. Tek is. Inaccurate unless you tell us why. You don't.
I think you still have a problem with pinning triggers. It could be you don't like casing.
But triggers are.difficult.thomgs to.prove.
So show us proof of this nebulous evaporation thing that describes border breaks.
Or, you could do this. Prepare a few dozen mea dishes, use an adjunct of corn or straw steep. Inoculate them all with your favorite isolate.
Wrap half of them up in aluminum foil. The other In clear plastic.
Let us know of which pins first
OH, and don't peak, even a few moments of light will trigger.
Note that your microclimate will be identical in both. Now what test can you show us?
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canndo
Well-Known Member
They are, second to cubes. But I have a different purpose.
For the last time @canndo , I have already agreed that light is a pinning trigger, just a minor one.
I also agree that if I let 2 agar dishs colonize that the dish exposed to light will most likely pin faster, BUT, if I was to do 3 dishs the one I expose to FAE thus causing evaporation, would pin faster than both.
There is tons of info out there on.this subject, it's not like I'm just making this up.
Comparing yourself in even.the slightest way to Roger Rabbit is laughable at best.
I also agree that if I let 2 agar dishs colonize that the dish exposed to light will most likely pin faster, BUT, if I was to do 3 dishs the one I expose to FAE thus causing evaporation, would pin faster than both.
There is tons of info out there on.this subject, it's not like I'm just making this up.
Comparing yourself in even.the slightest way to Roger Rabbit is laughable at best.
canndo
Well-Known Member
And yet the man does not know osmosis. The fact that understanding osmosis being essential to this sort of work is rather important.
That is neither here nor there.
Light is a major trigger as is a relative absence of co2.
The questiin is, have you substantiated your ideas or simply repeated them? Have you simply accepted internet superstition or perhaps chosen a guru and accepted that gurus every utterance without question? By all means, we should stand upon the shoulders of others, but mostly of those others publish peer reviewed scientific studies. Not just supposition and hypothesis.
Now on the one hand you are talking about evaporation. But you also believe that border breaks are caused by "perfect micro climates". Yet there is far less evaporation at the borders of containment than the center. How do you explain this and what experimentt have you done to demonstrate it?
And kindly tell us what else I have mistakenly stated in my attempt to mislead.
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Them are some bills. That's why I am renting a room for this year. Then I'm out of NYC.
canndo
Well-Known Member
By the way, you would need more dishes than three. You would need at least four.
Now how do you determine the effects of evaporation rather than presence of co2?
Have you used a draeger in each situation? What are you using to measure evaporation rate on small surfaces, or are you measuring changes in environmental rh over time?
What is your definition of minor Vs major triggers in cubensis?
In your opinion, what is the order of importance?
Have you tried excluding all variables but one? (within acceptablity of course)
Have you tried auxins or pin extract to see if there is an inherent hormone that is the source of triggers?
What are fruiting inhibitors? Is there really a gas or emination from spores or the release of spores that inhibit future initiation of fruit?
What are the true moisture reservoirs in the growing complex? Is it truely the casing? If so, why do many have so little trouble with uncased complexes?
Have you measured water content of the complex before and after a flush? Two flushes?
Did you consider the weight of carbon in the calculation?
Compare wet weight yield with weight loss of the substrate?
I would be interested in all this, I am looking at water retention in uncased complexes and the relationship between free water and mycelium access. Look, I read this and see I may look like a dick. I don't want to do that. What I do want is for you to realize that we can have a discussion on these things without resorting to accusations.
I implore you to begin a new thread and reasonably show us where our assumptions and mistakes are. Itight be illuminating, I have little ego in the matter even if this thread makes it appear that I do. One cannot learn when one believes they have arrived.
It is true that I don't grow cubes or any other of the major variety because I grew all I ever needed long long ago. I have been working on a high temperature fruiting plurotus for ten years. I am fruiting in the mid
eighties consistently and need only a few more degrees.
This strain will exist entirely on palm fronds and waste. Given that palm waste presents a major problem in certain parts of the world, and palms grow in hot places, it would be nice to have an edible (if not choice, unfortunately) mushroom that grows in high heat, breaks down palm debris where ordinary composting is dismal, and yields a decent soil amendment as a waste stream.
So I am very interested in these things, and not simply to show novice growers how to get started. Nor to be right for its own sake or for my sense of self worth.
Don't just claim I have no clue, you have experience, give us clues, but please do so in a positive way. I tried to do so in this thread, to synthesize what I know with simple terms for the lay person. To take several different techniques from different places and blend them as a response to pf Tek, which I despise because of what it represents.
Sure, the house cleaning is over kill but it was an attempt to get people to see the micro flora in their homes and on their persons. It was an attempt to take the mystery of this domain out of the equation.
I hope I have succeeded, but for someone to come and instigate question without appropriate answers is bomb throwing. It raises doubt in those who might just want to give this a shot.
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canndo
Well-Known Member
Far less, compositions of varying granularity saw dust, combined with grain hulls and compressed yield very good results (none of this is my work). But these substrates have poor water carrying capacity, I am looking to deal with that.
Hey I have a problem I need help with.
So I did many different teks but this one was the only one that suited me and worked for me so I am riding it out to fruiting It is WBS & VERM mix. I have two cakes that fully colonized. I cases to top thinking about just fruiting Invitro but then changed to popping them out Dunked and into a FRUITING CHAMBER with perlite and holes. I misted them and they started turning tan and looked like they were dieing on top. But the rest was forming Hyphae knots in spots all around. So I flipped them and it didn't really help anything. They still stopped growing. Now they are pooping new fresh Mycellium balls out everywhere and they are growing huge
Humidity is great inside. Water droplets all over the plastic wall and lid. I don't have a gauge
So what should I do with them?
Number two is
I have a Invitro JAR. WBS & VERM again. I cases it with about 1.5 of coir and it's been colonized and it was too forming Knots and bumps and I Thot it was going to fruit. Then it turned tan and flat paper looking texture on top. I realized humidity was low so I dialed that in better. Now it has water droplets Ontop again. But one spot is a yellow liquid and New Mycellium is growing up thru again. Oh. And it's shrinking too now in the jar. So what do I do. I don't need many mushrooms. I just need a few for medical reasons for now. So I can do better on my next ones. I just need these to work.
PLEASE HELP AND DONT BASH ON ME PLEASE.
So I did many different teks but this one was the only one that suited me and worked for me so I am riding it out to fruiting It is WBS & VERM mix. I have two cakes that fully colonized. I cases to top thinking about just fruiting Invitro but then changed to popping them out Dunked and into a FRUITING CHAMBER with perlite and holes. I misted them and they started turning tan and looked like they were dieing on top. But the rest was forming Hyphae knots in spots all around. So I flipped them and it didn't really help anything. They still stopped growing. Now they are pooping new fresh Mycellium balls out everywhere and they are growing huge
Humidity is great inside. Water droplets all over the plastic wall and lid. I don't have a gauge
So what should I do with them?
Number two is
I have a Invitro JAR. WBS & VERM again. I cases it with about 1.5 of coir and it's been colonized and it was too forming Knots and bumps and I Thot it was going to fruit. Then it turned tan and flat paper looking texture on top. I realized humidity was low so I dialed that in better. Now it has water droplets Ontop again. But one spot is a yellow liquid and New Mycellium is growing up thru again. Oh. And it's shrinking too now in the jar. So what do I do. I don't need many mushrooms. I just need a few for medical reasons for now. So I can do better on my next ones. I just need these to work.
PLEASE HELP AND DONT BASH ON ME PLEASE.
That shroom guy
Member
I think you are dealing with metabolites which will turn the top of the mycelium a dingy brown color sorta like rust it must have been something in the substrate but you do need to get all puddles of water out of there with paper towel that does not help the situation but you should be fine if you could send me a picture pleaseHey I have a problem I need help with.
So I did many different teks but this one was the only one that suited me and worked for me so I am riding it out to fruiting It is WBS & VERM mix. I have two cakes that fully colonized. I cases to top thinking about just fruiting Invitro but then changed to popping them out Dunked and into a FRUITING CHAMBER with perlite and holes. I misted them and they started turning tan and looked like they were dieing on top. But the rest was forming Hyphae knots in spots all around. So I flipped them and it didn't really help anything. They still stopped growing. Now they are pooping new fresh Mycellium balls out everywhere and they are growing huge
Humidity is great inside. Water droplets all over the plastic wall and lid. I don't have a gauge
So what should I do with them?
Number two is
I have a Invitro JAR. WBS & VERM again. I cases it with about 1.5 of coir and it's been colonized and it was too forming Knots and bumps and I Thot it was going to fruit. Then it turned tan and flat paper looking texture on top. I realized humidity was low so I dialed that in better. Now it has water droplets Ontop again. But one spot is a yellow liquid and New Mycellium is growing up thru again. Oh. And it's shrinking too now in the jar. So what do I do. I don't need many mushrooms. I just need a few for medical reasons for now. So I can do better on my next ones. I just need these to work.
PLEASE HELP AND DONT BASH ON ME PLEASE.
No puddles. Well the one with yellow in was a small one but I accidently broke the jar right after I posted that so no more Invitro jar. It's now a cake. I rinsed the glass peice off of it and rolled in VERM. I'll send some pics In a few minutes of them. I just put that one in with the two smaller cakes I was talking about and I had to make a taller lid so now instead of just the tub with lid.it's another clear tub container upside down on top I'll see how it dos tonight and may have to dial it in a bit better tomorrow or so.
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canndo
Well-Known Member
Hey I have a problem I need help with.
So I did many different teks but this one was the only one that suited me and worked for me so I am riding it out to fruiting It is WBS & VERM mix. I have two cakes that fully colonized. I cases to top thinking about just fruiting Invitro but then changed to popping them out Dunked and into a FRUITING CHAMBER with perlite and holes. I misted them and they started turning tan and looked like they were dieing on top. But the rest was forming Hyphae knots in spots all around. So I flipped them and it didn't really help anything. They still stopped growing. Now they are pooping new fresh Mycellium balls out everywhere and they are growing huge
Humidity is great inside. Water droplets all over the plastic wall and lid. I don't have a gauge
So what should I do with them?
Number two is
I have a Invitro JAR. WBS & VERM again. I cases it with about 1.5 of coir and it's been colonized and it was too forming Knots and bumps and I Thot it was going to fruit. Then it turned tan and flat paper looking texture on top. I realized humidity was low so I dialed that in better. Now it has water droplets Ontop again. But one spot is a yellow liquid and New Mycellium is growing up thru again. Oh. And it's shrinking too now in the jar. So what do I do. I don't need many mushrooms. I just need a few for medical reasons for now. So I can do better on my next ones. I just need these to work.
PLEASE HELP AND DONT BASH ON ME PLEASE.
No one bashes new folk who have done their home work.
If the others have not helped you, let us know. As I have stated, patience is next to cleanliness here. If you have no contamination and your humidity is good (85 or above) you will eventually get fruit if you have mycelium capable of doing so.
Seems to me, you just need to wait. Contrary to what our friends are maintaining you can ensure your cakes are well lit at least part of the time, though they do not need instant light as plants do. And be sure you keep your co2 levels down with fresh air.
I. Believe I will. Post a section on orchestration of pinning.
Let. Us know.
canndo
Well-Known Member
I have yet to see a brown or cream colored "rind" that is any thing but what you describe here. But thisay be akin to overlay on casing and will inhibit fruit
canndo
Well-Known Member
Looks fine, relax. But next time, if you chose this method, do it start to finish.
The vermiculite is sort of a casing but a true casing is better for this.