Been reading this for awhile... much of it pertains to outdoor fruit/veg grows but I thought the info is still relevant & helpful- especially the part about the difference between energy derived from compost and minerals... just a lot to go through... thanks for posting!For anyone who is capable of understanding...I am just passing information along. Those who are secretly intrested will read the information and may seek more information from the quoted source.
This was a good read for me, thanks for posting.For anyone who seeks more information from the quoted source. You will be asked to state what "Crop" you growing. Mention "Hops" or some other annual flower like "Catnip"
Has anyone tried applying this method to yield? I can certainly throw some urea in my soil and spray some ammonia dilute on my leaves when I flip. Can I also switch back to growth fertilizers once my colas form? Could this be a key to not getting popcorn?Day 15: Questions and Answers
Here is another example: A grower with a field of canning tomatoes sought to maximize his harvest of tomatoes all at picking time. To do this he kept his soil on the growth side longer by using growth energy products such as calcium nitrate and potassium nitrate. The result were large tomato plants and thick stalks but not a tomato anywhere. The canning company field rep was getting worried.
At the right time the farmer switched his soil from growth to reproductive and turned his field yellow with blossoms overnight. How did he do this? By using reproductive fertilizers and foliar sprays. These caused the soil and plants to switch from growth to reproductive. How can this be done? Simple - broadcast some ammonium sulfate, 11-52-0 or urea. Then spray the plants with a dilute reproductive spray made from household ammonia, phosphoric acid, vinegar etc. The broadcast switches the soil while the foliar spray switched the plants.
Once a large bunch of tomatoes were set and beginning to develop, the farmer switched back to growth energy dominance. Why? Because growth energy is also bulking energy. Now the farmer wanted to size up the tomatoes. By keeping growth energy dominant he was able to stop new blossoms from developing. What was the end result? A large harvest of tomatoes all ripening at nearly the same time.
Alot to go through is right.....i'll have to read it multiple times no doubt.Been reading this for awhile... much of it pertains to outdoor fruit/veg grows but I thought the info is still relevant & helpful- especially the part about the difference between energy derived from compost and minerals... just a lot to go through... thanks for posting!
my issue is that simply foliar spraying is a reaaaaally inferior way to give it macronutrients, you CANNOT supply a plant with enough nutrients that way, not to mention the fact that although some nutrients are mobile, some aren't, a good amount are slow to be mobile.Alot to go through is right.....i'll have to read it multiple times no doubt.
I foliar spray with compost tea for the macrobiotics, and spray with diluted phosphoric acid when I broadcast urea after their flush before flip. I mean there's certainly valid applications for foliar feeding.my issue is that simply foliar spraying is a reaaaaally inferior way to give it macronutrients, you CANNOT supply a plant with enough nutrients that way, not to mention the fact that although some nutrients are mobile, some aren't, a good amount are slow to be mobile.
the most mobile nutrients are nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and magnesium, those are needed in WAY too large of amounts to be supplied to the leaves.
What I am saying, is that in order for foliar feeding to be useful, your soil has to be deficient in something.
in other words, like always, build the soil right, and virtually not much past that is needed.