Matching Drivers and COBs

[RackEmUp]

Ok. I didn't properly understand what the driver is actually doing. There's a lot to surf through and decipher to get up to speed on this topic. Thanks a lot!

"LEDs are designed to run on low voltage (12-24V), direct current electricity. However, most places supply higher voltage (120-277V), alternating current electricity. An LED driver rectifies higher voltage, alternating current to low voltage, direct current."

 

[bassman999]

Ok. I didn't properly understand what the driver is actually doing. There's a lot to surf through and decipher to get up to speed on this topic. Thanks a lot!

"LEDs are designed to run on low voltage (12-24V), direct current electricity. However, most places supply higher voltage (120-277V), alternating current electricity. An LED driver rectifies higher voltage, alternating current to low voltage, direct current."

If you plan to run cobs the voltage can get much higher than 24VDC
Cree CXB3590 for example is roughly a 36V draw each

 

[RackEmUp]

Yes, thanks. I posted that general explanation for others. What was confusing me was that I was assuming 4 cobs at 36V each would draw 144 vac from the wall via the driver, but I now understand that that's 144 vdc. It wasn't making sense from the beginning that leds would be using that kind of ac voltage.

 

[bassman999]

Yes, thanks. I posted that general explanation for others. What was confusing me was that I was assuming 4 cobs at 36V each would draw 144 vac from the wall via the driver, but I now understand that that's 144 vdc. It wasn't making sense from the beginning that leds would be using that kind of ac voltage.

Less than a yr ago I had no idea what drivers were either

 

[muleface]

Yes, thanks. I posted that general explanation for others. What was confusing me was that I was assuming 4 cobs at 36V each would draw 144 vac from the wall via the driver, but I now understand that that's 144 vdc. It wasn't making sense from the beginning that leds would be using that kind of ac voltage.

you definitely came to the right place. The folks on this site know their stuff and are very friendly. The real fun stuff comes when trying to figure out the best combination of COB's and drivers for your specific situation. I just now putting together my first DYI setup. I went with 8 - Gen 7 Vero 29's and 2- HLG-320H-C2100. This design was created by asking a lot of questions and getting a lot of help from the members of this forum.

For a great place to start, check here...

 

[RackEmUp]

It seems that way muleface. I'm glad I came across the cob method in general. Thanks for pointing out the video!

 

[SaltyNuts]

@CobKits

I'm looking to run the 68V Vero 29 Gen 7 cobs, would the Meanwell HLG-320H-C1050B be a good match?

I figure four would be ideal for that driver as long as the voltage is compatible?

Or six of the 68V cobs on the HLG-320H-C700B?

thanks!

 

[nogod_]

If you are running in series just look at the datasheet for the meanwell and make sure 4x68v is less than the max voltage for that driver.

@CobKits

I'm looking to run the 68V Vero 29 Gen 7 cobs, would the Meanwell HLG-320H-C1050B be a good match?

I figure four would be ideal for that driver as long as the voltage is compatible?

Or six of the 68V cobs on the HLG-320H-C700B?

thanks!

 

[CobKits]

@CobKits

I'm looking to run the 68V Vero 29 Gen 7 cobs, would the Meanwell HLG-320H-C1050B be a good match?

I figure four would be ideal for that driver as long as the voltage is compatible?

Or six of the 68V cobs on the HLG-320H-C700B?

thanks!

download the bridgelux tool or use datasheet you need to look at voltage at these currents. in this case 65.1 at 700 ma and 66.4 @ 1050 (50C Tc)

 

[SaltyNuts]

If you are running in series just look at the datasheet for the meanwell and make sure 4x68v is less than the max voltage for that driver.

download the bridgelux tool or use datasheet you need to look at voltage at these currents. in this case 65.1 at 700 ma and 66.4 @ 1050 (50C Tc)

Ok I will learn to use the Bridgelux tool. My original question started when I was perusing the Bridgelux DS93 datasheet, beginning at page ten it has each cob model at various current and voltage settings.The sweet spot for best efficiency is generally 855mA/66.2V.

I'm not aware of a driver that outputs 855mA constant current, anyone know?

 

[CobKits]

lower the current, the better efficiency. 855 is an arbitrary number and the common 700 mA is more efficient than that

 

[Abiqua]

Ok I will learn to use the Bridgelux tool. My original question started when I was perusing the Bridgelux DS93 datasheet, beginning at page ten it has each cob model at various current and voltage settings.The sweet spot for best efficiency is generally 855mA/66.2V.

I'm not aware of a driver that outputs 855mA constant current, anyone know?

Sure, take any HLG meanwell driver above the C120-A series and use the internal pot with a quick multimeter check to get to 855mA if absolutely necessary.

Ultimate efficiency you described is only ultimate efficiency in a dollars and cents, sense. What says that current is the ultimate efficacy? should be funner to play around and see if that actually holds water

 

[SaltyNuts]

Sure, take any HLG meanwell driver above the C120-A series and use the internal pot with a quick multimeter check to get to 855mA if absolutely necessary.
Ultimate efficiency you described is only ultimate efficiency in a dollars and cents, sense. What says that current is the ultimate efficacy? should be funner to play around and see if that actually holds water

Thanks for the suggestion about the driver, I'll check that out. Seems easier to go with the HLG-320H-C1050B and dial down but I'm not clear on whether the dimmer effects the voltage or the current?

For the record I didn't say anything about ultimate efficiency. I said the sweet spot for best efficiency is generally 855mA/66.2V (56W). That's according to the Bridgelux DS93 datasheet. It has tables starting page ten that claim the 29-C models are getting up to 210 lm/W at that power.

examples taken from the datasheet:

BXRC-35E10K0-C-7X
3500K
80 CRI
855mA
66.2V
56.6W
10757 flux AT 25C
10236 flUX AT 85C
190 lm/W

BXRC-50C10K1-C-74
5000K
70 CRI
855mA
66.2V
56.6W
11906 flux at 25C
11329 flux at 85C
210 lm/W

Thanks!

 

[SaltyNuts]

lower the current, the better efficiency. 855 is an arbitrary number and the common 700 mA is more efficient than that

I can't get the Bridgelux tool to work on my shitty computer, macros won't work, errors, I'm over it. But I'm really curious what lm/W and flux it would say for 700mA (and 1050mA) with these models:

BXRC-27E10K0-C-7X
BXRC-30E10K0-C-7X
BXRC-35E10K0-C-7X

not trying to be spoon-fed or anything, just kinda hit a wall here

 

[muleface]

I can't get the Bridgelux tool to work on my shitty computer, macros won't work, errors, I'm over it. But I'm really curious what lm/W and flux it would say for 700mA (and 1050mA) with these models:

BXRC-27E10K0-C-7X
BXRC-30E10K0-C-7X
BXRC-35E10K0-C-7X

not trying to be spoon-fed or anything, just kinda hit a wall here

I've been spoon fed a lot here. least i can do is pay it forward....

the photos are of 2x 3000k and 2x 4000k gen 7 vero 29s running on a HLG-320H-C2100. Its pulling about 332 watts at the wall or 83 watts a cob. Im sure there is overhead in there, so maybe less per cob.

 

[Abiqua]

Thanks for the suggestion about the driver, I'll check that out. Seems easier to go with the HLG-320H-C1050B and dial down but I'm not clear on whether the dimmer effects the voltage or the current?

For the record I didn't say anything about ultimate efficiency. I said the sweet spot for best efficiency is generally 855mA/66.2V (56W). That's according to the Bridgelux DS93 datasheet. It has tables starting page ten that claim the 29-C models are getting up to 210 lm/W at that power.

examples taken from the datasheet:

BXRC-35E10K0-C-7X
3500K
80 CRI
855mA
66.2V
56.6W
10757 flux AT 25C
10236 flUX AT 85C
190 lm/W

BXRC-50C10K1-C-74
5000K
70 CRI
855mA
66.2V
56.6W
11906 flux at 25C
11329 flux at 85C
210 lm/W

Thanks!

I was just giving you a little guff. I actually wrote efficacy, not efficiency in that last bit, in hopes you might look it up or catch it

The A series has a 50% Current adjustment from the built in Potentiometer.

So the 320 series is fine as long as you go with at least the 1050, your right. And just to note.... the B series uses completely different methods [3] to dim, but is definitely more fine tune-able.

I was just offering the most basic, clearcut method in the A series suggestion.

 

[muleface]

I was just giving you a little guff. I actually wrote efficacy, not efficiency in that last bit, in hopes you might look it up or catch it

The A series has a 50% Current adjustment from the built in Potentiometer.

So the 320 series is fine as long as you go with at least the 1050, your right. And just to note.... the B series uses completely different methods [3] to dim, but is definitely more fine tune-able.

I was just offering the most basic, clearcut method in the A series suggestion.

Im running A's. How exactly do you dim them? I see there is a rubber plug that i need to remove , do i use a philips screw driver or something?

 

[Abiqua]

Im running A's. How exactly do you dim them? I see there is a rubber plug that i need to remove , do i use a philips screw driver or something?

yeppers...thats how i have done it, pull the plug, fill the slot, turn the slot, pull out ....Usually set at max at factory, so opposite would be 50% of your drivers rated ma ximum current.
If you have a multimeter that handle current adequately, you are all set

You can basically dim anywhere from 50%-100% current on an Analog pot. The b series basically uses digital control as one function, just as a note.

 

[pop22]

Thinner wire? No, wire size requirement doesn't decrease when you go from 120v to 220v. Wires limitation is actually by wattage. 14 gauge rated 15 amp @ 110v is 7.5 amp rated @ 220v. You don't want to be running 15 amps of 220 on anything less than 10 gauge!

I run all my grow lighting at 240V as it's safer, more efficient and less costly to install (thinner wire needed).

 

[ttystikk]

Thinner wire? No, wire size requirement doesn't decrease when you go from 120v to 220v. Wires limitation is actually by wattage. 14 gauge rated 15 amp @ 110v is 7.5 amp rated @ 220v. You don't want to be running 15 amps of 220 on anything less than 10 gauge!

Wire sizing is by AMPS. Twice the voltage, half the amps, smaller size needed.

I'll take my master electrician's word over yours.