GroErr Grows...

GroErr

Well-Known Member
There's a reason converts to COB LED are so excited and it's not just about more yield!
Environment may have played a part in that run but if they keep producing that level of terps/quality (which I'm pretty sure they will), there's no going back unless I'm just testing or need some extra heat. Quality has always been my driver indoor as it's personal or meds and so far the quality has been outstanding under the COBs. Quality was also top notch under 3070's but not as much difference as under the 3590's, nor was production. These 3590's have really stepped up the game.
 

Evil-Mobo

Well-Known Member
Environment may have played a part in that run but if they keep producing that level of terps/quality (which I'm pretty sure they will), there's no going back unless I'm just testing or need some extra heat. Quality has always been my driver indoor as it's personal or meds and so far the quality has been outstanding under the COBs. Quality was also top notch under 3070's but not as much difference as under the 3590's, nor was production. These 3590's have really stepped up the game.
With what I am seeing in veg I am happy I spent the $$ on the Cree's, tonight my first girl starts 12/12 under the 3K 3590's that she's been vegging under as well. The veg tent is 5K. I pulled my portable A/C unit out of the room yesterday lol. If I were to finish out the other half of my flower tent exactly as the 600W light, I would be using about 1600 total for my grow, this is in three tents right now, the HID's were gonna be 3000w so almost half the wattage. It makes a difference brother, but like you told me in the past you need to see it in person and not look at it on a data sheet. And I am seeing it now, the room is cooler and quieter both big deals for me.
 

GroErr

Well-Known Member
With what I am seeing in veg I am happy I spent the $$ on the Cree's, tonight my first girl starts 12/12 under the 3K 3590's that she's been vegging under as well. The veg tent is 5K. I pulled my portable A/C unit out of the room yesterday lol. If I were to finish out the other half of my flower tent exactly as the 600W light, I would be using about 1600 total for my grow, this is in three tents right now, the HID's were gonna be 3000w so almost half the wattage. It makes a difference brother, but like you told me in the past you need to see it in person and not look at it on a data sheet. And I am seeing it now, the room is cooler and quieter both big deals for me.
Glad to hear it's working out well for you, those COBs make it so much easier to maintain the environment. As much as we talk about lights, if the environment isn't in check, the light by itself is not going to produce top quality. These make it easier to get 2 of the major indoor growing factors dialed in.
 

Evil-Mobo

Well-Known Member
Glad to hear it's working out well for you, those COBs make it so much easier to maintain the environment. As much as we talk about lights, if the environment isn't in check, the light by itself is not going to produce top quality. These make it easier to get 2 of the major indoor growing factors dialed in.
Exactly for the first time ever I am not battling humidity issues lol.........
 

GroErr

Well-Known Member
very nice.
just trying to get some perspective, after all the arguments on other threads. how much does 600 watts of cobs raise the temp in that area? do you have to vent it like you would a 600 watt hps?
Hey thanks, no, nothing like hps, shit my temps dropped to the point I'll have to crank up my incoming air through the winter to add some heat. may even have to mix in one of my CMH lights mid winter for heat.

Room is 4'x9.5'x7.5'H, 1x 4" inline for exhaust running 1/2 way on the variable controller. 1x 4" inline for incoming air from my HVAC (air con in summer, heat in winter) and right now I have it at the lowest setting on the variable controller. That's maintaining my temps at 79-80/RH at 50-55% which is exactly where I like them.

For perspective when I pulled out my 315w CMH and replaced that with 300w of COBs my temps dropped by ~6-8F and instead of running my exhaust at full and incoming air at 1/2 I was able to turn down the exhaust to 1/2 and incoming to the lowest setting.

Keep in mind I'm running those 3590 COBs at 1.4A so that is the lowest heat possible coming off these, the higher amp drivers would generate a little more heat but you're talking a degree or two at most imo.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Not sure how to explain this effectively, but a watt of heat is a watt of heat whether it comes from a chip or a light bulb.

600W of either will need a similar amount of cooling, but the style of needed cooling might differ.

COB LED got a rep for low heat because they spread the heat out and because people were designing lights with PAR equivalents rather than by watt equivalents. This resulted in fixtures that pulled fewer watts from the wall and of course making less heat overall.

COB LED makes more light per watt but when that light hits something, heat is the result. When it hits a plant, that heat is converted into water transpiration. This effect explains the thermostat readings.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
while the science matters, the result is what matters the most, if i can run 600 watts of cobs with 1/2 the ventilation i need to run 600 watts of hps, i like it. and the fact that you can arrange them to cover your area, instead of trying to cram all your plants into the sweet spot of the hps, is just gravy
I think superior light distribution across the canopy is the secret weapon of LED, which is why I don't fuck with high wattage COBs.
 

GroErr

Well-Known Member
Not sure how to explain this effectively, but a watt of heat is a watt of heat whether it comes from a chip or a light bulb.

600W of either will need a similar amount of cooling, but the style of needed cooling might differ.

COB LED got a rep for low heat because they spread the heat out and because people were designing lights with PAR equivalents rather than by watt equivalents. This resulted in fixtures that pulled fewer watts from the wall and of course making less heat overall.

COB LED makes more light per watt but when that light hits something, heat is the result. When it hits a plant, that heat is converted into water transpiration. This effect explains the thermostat readings.
Yeah the science/theory is correct but I run those WiFi/RF thermometer/hygrometer's and they don't lie. Is the heat a different type or does it get somehow absorbed better, whatever it is, there's no comparison when I switch between CMH and COBs, I've gone back & forth a couple of times and when I have, I have to adjust the room to suit each type of light, the light output wattage is almost the same (300 vs 315), the CMH of course has some overhead so the ballast heat could certainly account for some of the difference, perhaps all? The total output on the COBs is about 10% more accounting for the drivers and fans so around 660w, the actual total draw on the 315's ~120v is 365 or 730w running 2 of them.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Yeah the science/theory is correct but I run those WiFi/RF thermometer/hygrometer's and they don't lie. Is the heat a different type or does it get somehow absorbed better, whatever it is, there's no comparison when I switch between CMH and COBs, I've gone back & forth a couple of times and when I have, I have to adjust the room to suit each type of light, the light output wattage is almost the same (300 vs 315), the CMH of course has some overhead so the ballast heat could certainly account for some of the difference, perhaps all? The total output on the COBs is about 10% more accounting for the drivers and fans so around 660w, the actual total draw on the 315's ~120v is 365 or 730w running 2 of them.
Directional light profile is sending most of the light directly onto the leaves, which respond with more water transpiration. If you shut your exhaust vent you'd notice a rapid rise in RH.
 

GroErr

Well-Known Member
Great looking plants GroErr!

When and if I ever get around to replacing my HIDs I'll likely be getting into these COBs, Seeing much better results with them than most of the other LED grows I've looked at. Pink is not my favorite colour. :)

:peace:
Hey thanks and thanks for popping in, those COBs are impressive for output and quality. I recently switched them from CMH 315's which are also impressive for bulb tech but these are producing the best quality I've seen yet. Cheers.
 

GroErr

Well-Known Member
Directional light profile is sending most of the light directly onto the leaves, which respond with more water transpiration. If you shut your exhaust vent you'd notice a rapid rise in RH.
Yes I've seen that many times when I shut off all fans/exhaust to do something like pollinating, but that happens with either light source in there. Have never paid attention though to see if there's any difference in how fast or how high each light source spikes. Would be an interesting test but a pain in the _ss...
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Yes I've seen that many times when I shut off all fans/exhaust to do something like pollinating, but that happens with either light source in there. Have never paid attention though to see if there's any difference in how fast or how high each light source spikes. Would be an interesting test but a pain in the _ss...
Since I run water cooled air handlers it's easier for me to tell. I just look at how fast the reclaim barrel fills up.
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
Hey thanks and thanks for popping in, those COBs are impressive for output and quality. I recently switched them from CMH 315's which are also impressive for bulb tech but these are producing the best quality I've seen yet. Cheers.
A grow well worth popping in to see! :clap:

I've been trying to source some CMH bulbs for years up here without any luck. I'm too paranoid to order them online and any of the electrical supply places won't get them unless I buy a case of 6. Good price actually at $300 but rarely have that much coin to spare. Recently had it but blew my wad on bulbs, nutes etc to expand my grow space and didn't take the time to shop around much. $170 for one 1000W EYE Hortilux conversion bulb to run on my old magnetic MH ballast and flower out an 8x4 tent that still needs setting up. Another $200 for other bulbs to veg and flower with the various ballasts I've been using for years. I'm still using right this minute a 15 year old EYE conversion bulb that lets me veg with a 400W HPS ballast. Must be half a shotglass of tungsten flakes rolling around in there but the plants seem to like it fine. :lol:

My basement grow space is always on the cold side so unlike most I welcome the heat that HIDs supply. If there are no lights on then I have a 1000W heater kicking in to maintain temps in there and you can't grow shit with a heater! :)

There is also the issue of CO2. No carbon dioxide and plants stop growing so without supplementation you gotta have fresh air constantly entering the grow space. There again I have problems with low temps and may need to supply heated air from the house so I can have a low volume exhaust fan running while the lights are on. Or scrounge up the coin to buy a CO2 controller that works with the tank and flow gauge I already have.

Maybe my lotto tickets will pay off tonight and I can go get all the goodies I wish I had instead of the DIY stuff that works fine but isn't as pretty as the store-bought stuff. :)

:peace:
 

GroErr

Well-Known Member
A grow well worth popping in to see! :clap:

I've been trying to source some CMH bulbs for years up here without any luck. I'm too paranoid to order them online and any of the electrical supply places won't get them unless I buy a case of 6. Good price actually at $300 but rarely have that much coin to spare. Recently had it but blew my wad on bulbs, nutes etc to expand my grow space and didn't take the time to shop around much. $170 for one 1000W EYE Hortilux conversion bulb to run on my old magnetic MH ballast and flower out an 8x4 tent that still needs setting up. Another $200 for other bulbs to veg and flower with the various ballasts I've been using for years. I'm still using right this minute a 15 year old EYE conversion bulb that lets me veg with a 400W HPS ballast. Must be half a shotglass of tungsten flakes rolling around in there but the plants seem to like it fine. :lol:

My basement grow space is always on the cold side so unlike most I welcome the heat that HIDs supply. If there are no lights on then I have a 1000W heater kicking in to maintain temps in there and you can't grow shit with a heater! :)

There is also the issue of CO2. No carbon dioxide and plants stop growing so without supplementation you gotta have fresh air constantly entering the grow space. There again I have problems with low temps and may need to supply heated air from the house so I can have a low volume exhaust fan running while the lights are on. Or scrounge up the coin to buy a CO2 controller that works with the tank and flow gauge I already have.

Maybe my lotto tickets will pay off tonight and I can go get all the goodies I wish I had instead of the DIY stuff that works fine but isn't as pretty as the store-bought stuff. :)

:peace:
Cheers my fellow Canadian, I know about dealing with our shitty availability and high equipment prices up here. I've bought most of my lights from the US but I also bought some (CMH) when our dollar was closer to par with the USD, right now it sucks. Only Canadian supplier of lights I can point you to with decent prices for COBs is bcblondes, owner has been posting in some of the Canadian threads and they seem legfit. But that's a whole different budget range. I bought some replacement lamps from Bulbs Pro but their prices weren't the greatest and I had to exchange some when they shipped the wrong one's first order.

Sounds like in your cold basement setup you can handle hps, hopefully you're not in Ontario because my hydro bill has doubled in the last 2 years watt-for-watt, f'n Wynne $%^!

As far as heat goes, it would be worth tying an extra vent into your grow area so you can bring in air and heat in winter or air conditioning in summer if you have it. I did that after trying a space heater, they're so inefficient they end up costing a fortune to run. I run the incoming air on a variable inline controller and it works well, it runs 24x7 and I just adjust the variable controller to suit the season.
 
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