Darnova
Member
Hello, fellow purveyors of green!
I'm looking to create a comprehensive FAQ on Molasses, similar to my additives FAQ..
https://www.rollitup.org/t/faq-perlite-vermiculite-coco-coir-peat-moss.925906/
I have a pretty solid understanding of molasses and its plant usage, but there are blank spots I need help with. Here is what I've got so far..
What is Molasses?
Molasses is a liquid by-product of refining sugarcane or sugar beets into regular sugar. Without getting overly technical, there are 3 different kinds of molasses, and 2 different ways in which to make each of them.
3 Different Kinds:
To make molasses, sugarcane/beets are harvested and stripped of leaves. Its juice is extracted usually by cutting, crushing, or mashing. The juice is boiled to concentrate it, promoting sugar crystallization. The result of this first boiling is called "first syrup", and it has the highest sugar content. "Second syrup" is created from a second boiling and sugar extraction, and has a slight bitter taste. The "third syrup" is the third boiling of the sugar syrup and yields dark, viscous blackstrap molasses, known for its black licorice flavor. The majority of sucrose from the original juice has been crystallized and removed.
With most of the sucrose removed, blackstrap (3rd boiling) contains a higher concentration of healthy nutrients per volume when compared to either 1st or 2nd boiling.
2 Different Ways:
Unsulphured molasses is the processing of properly aged sugarcane/beets.
Sulphured molasses is when sulfur dioxide is used on younger sugarcane/beets as a matter of speeding up the manufacturing process. Sulfur dioxide is also used as a preservative and bleaching agent.
Unsulphured molasses is going to contain better organically healthy nutrients, since the sugar plants are left to mature more fully. Unless the container specifically states "Unsulphured", then you can assume it was processed with sulfur dioxide. Unless the container specifically states "Blackstrap", then you can assume it is a 1st syrup boiling.
If you intend to use molasses for your plants, Unsulphured Blackstrap Molasses is the best way to go.
Nutritional Value of Blackstrap Molasses per 2 teaspoons:
Basic Components
Calories - 32.12
Water - 3.92 g
Ash - 1.12 g
Carbohydrates
Total Carbohydrates - 8.31 g
Sugar - 5.85 g
Vitamins
Riboflavin - 0.01 mg
Niacin - 0.15 mg
Folate - 0.14 mcg
Vitamin B6 - 0.10mg
Pantothenic Acid - 0.12 mg
Minerals
Calcium - 117.32 mg
Iron - 2.39 mg
Magnesium - 29.38 mg
Phosphorus - 5.47 mg
Potassium - 340.57 mg
Sodium - 7.52 mg
Zinc - 0.14 mg
Copper - 0.28 mg
Manganese - 0.36 mg
Selenium - 2.43 mcg
Plants enjoy the benefits of all of the previously listed minerals present in molasses, though not equally. As you can see, blackstrap molasses is high in potassium, but missing nitrogen.
How is molasses applied to plants?
Molasses can be diluted in water and fed directly to the roots by the same method you might normally water a plant.
Molasses can also be diluted and sprayed directly onto the plant leaves for nutrient absorption (foliar feeding). However, this method is discouraged by botanists for the same reasons why they discourage spraying your plants with sugar-water. For one thing, it simply isn't necessary. Foliar spraying is only required when you need to get nutrients into the plant as quickly as possible. If your growing medium and fertilizer regiment is healthy and regular, you never need foliar spraying outside of possible pest control. Also, if you do need to get nutrients into your plant as quickly as possible, there are much better products available. Note that molasses contains no Nitrogen. If your leaves are yellowing due to lack of nutrients, you're much better off finding a product designed for nutrient foliar feeding. Most organic fertilizers can be used for normal root watering, as well as safely diluted for foliar spray. Botanists also discourage molasses used as a foliar spray because, like sugar water, it can attract unwanted, plant-harmful insects and pests. In fact, botanists generally discourage molasses being used as a normal root watering supplement. Sugary sweet liquid poured into your growing medium can also attract unwanted, plant-harmful insects and pests.
If the lab coat wearing, PHD accredited botanists discourage using molasses for watering of either kind, then why would anyone use it on plants?
One word.. Mycorrhizae.
Mycorrhizae refers to the beneficial root fungus, which forms a healthy symbiotic life-cycle with your plants. Mycorrhizae are not the bad surface molds or fungus, which can starve or damage plants.
In short, mycorrhizae lives on and around the root systems of plants. Sunlight kills mycorrhizae. Healthy mycorrhizae in your grow medium increases the rate at which nutrients are broken down by the fungus, which are more readily absorbed through the plants roots. In exchange, the plant's roots provide sugars to the mycorrhizae to keep the fungus healthy. A great symbiotic partnership.
Molasses can be used to feed and sustain mycorrhizae in the absence of a healthy root system from living plants. A gardener may create a diluted solution of molasses and water to pour onto their soil in order to feed the mycorrhizae until the root systems of the plants are able to take over the job. Once the plant and mycorrhizae reach a beneficial equilibrium, there is no reason to continue feeding molasses to the plants. As already mentioned, there are far better products which can be used as regular plant fertilizer.
Author's Note:
This next part is where I need some guidance from other growers. I've never really gotten into hydroponic or soil-less growing. But, I have heard that mycorrhizae can be introduced and thrive in purely hydroponic and soil-less grows. If that holds true, then is it possible that the increased water usage (compared to a soil grow) may then benefit from some form of constant molasses feeding to prevent the mycorrhizae from "starving" on the roots? Absent the mycorrhizae in hydroponics, it seems that molasses is not needed for hydroponic grows, as other products may produce better overall nutrient-based results.
As stated in the beginning, this FAQ is a work-in-progress. Any corrections and input would be appreciated.
I'm looking to create a comprehensive FAQ on Molasses, similar to my additives FAQ..
https://www.rollitup.org/t/faq-perlite-vermiculite-coco-coir-peat-moss.925906/
I have a pretty solid understanding of molasses and its plant usage, but there are blank spots I need help with. Here is what I've got so far..
What is Molasses?
Molasses is a liquid by-product of refining sugarcane or sugar beets into regular sugar. Without getting overly technical, there are 3 different kinds of molasses, and 2 different ways in which to make each of them.
3 Different Kinds:
To make molasses, sugarcane/beets are harvested and stripped of leaves. Its juice is extracted usually by cutting, crushing, or mashing. The juice is boiled to concentrate it, promoting sugar crystallization. The result of this first boiling is called "first syrup", and it has the highest sugar content. "Second syrup" is created from a second boiling and sugar extraction, and has a slight bitter taste. The "third syrup" is the third boiling of the sugar syrup and yields dark, viscous blackstrap molasses, known for its black licorice flavor. The majority of sucrose from the original juice has been crystallized and removed.
With most of the sucrose removed, blackstrap (3rd boiling) contains a higher concentration of healthy nutrients per volume when compared to either 1st or 2nd boiling.
2 Different Ways:
Unsulphured molasses is the processing of properly aged sugarcane/beets.
Sulphured molasses is when sulfur dioxide is used on younger sugarcane/beets as a matter of speeding up the manufacturing process. Sulfur dioxide is also used as a preservative and bleaching agent.
Unsulphured molasses is going to contain better organically healthy nutrients, since the sugar plants are left to mature more fully. Unless the container specifically states "Unsulphured", then you can assume it was processed with sulfur dioxide. Unless the container specifically states "Blackstrap", then you can assume it is a 1st syrup boiling.
If you intend to use molasses for your plants, Unsulphured Blackstrap Molasses is the best way to go.
Nutritional Value of Blackstrap Molasses per 2 teaspoons:
Basic Components
Calories - 32.12
Water - 3.92 g
Ash - 1.12 g
Carbohydrates
Total Carbohydrates - 8.31 g
Sugar - 5.85 g
Vitamins
Riboflavin - 0.01 mg
Niacin - 0.15 mg
Folate - 0.14 mcg
Vitamin B6 - 0.10mg
Pantothenic Acid - 0.12 mg
Minerals
Calcium - 117.32 mg
Iron - 2.39 mg
Magnesium - 29.38 mg
Phosphorus - 5.47 mg
Potassium - 340.57 mg
Sodium - 7.52 mg
Zinc - 0.14 mg
Copper - 0.28 mg
Manganese - 0.36 mg
Selenium - 2.43 mcg
Plants enjoy the benefits of all of the previously listed minerals present in molasses, though not equally. As you can see, blackstrap molasses is high in potassium, but missing nitrogen.
How is molasses applied to plants?
Molasses can be diluted in water and fed directly to the roots by the same method you might normally water a plant.
Molasses can also be diluted and sprayed directly onto the plant leaves for nutrient absorption (foliar feeding). However, this method is discouraged by botanists for the same reasons why they discourage spraying your plants with sugar-water. For one thing, it simply isn't necessary. Foliar spraying is only required when you need to get nutrients into the plant as quickly as possible. If your growing medium and fertilizer regiment is healthy and regular, you never need foliar spraying outside of possible pest control. Also, if you do need to get nutrients into your plant as quickly as possible, there are much better products available. Note that molasses contains no Nitrogen. If your leaves are yellowing due to lack of nutrients, you're much better off finding a product designed for nutrient foliar feeding. Most organic fertilizers can be used for normal root watering, as well as safely diluted for foliar spray. Botanists also discourage molasses used as a foliar spray because, like sugar water, it can attract unwanted, plant-harmful insects and pests. In fact, botanists generally discourage molasses being used as a normal root watering supplement. Sugary sweet liquid poured into your growing medium can also attract unwanted, plant-harmful insects and pests.
If the lab coat wearing, PHD accredited botanists discourage using molasses for watering of either kind, then why would anyone use it on plants?
One word.. Mycorrhizae.
Mycorrhizae refers to the beneficial root fungus, which forms a healthy symbiotic life-cycle with your plants. Mycorrhizae are not the bad surface molds or fungus, which can starve or damage plants.
In short, mycorrhizae lives on and around the root systems of plants. Sunlight kills mycorrhizae. Healthy mycorrhizae in your grow medium increases the rate at which nutrients are broken down by the fungus, which are more readily absorbed through the plants roots. In exchange, the plant's roots provide sugars to the mycorrhizae to keep the fungus healthy. A great symbiotic partnership.
Molasses can be used to feed and sustain mycorrhizae in the absence of a healthy root system from living plants. A gardener may create a diluted solution of molasses and water to pour onto their soil in order to feed the mycorrhizae until the root systems of the plants are able to take over the job. Once the plant and mycorrhizae reach a beneficial equilibrium, there is no reason to continue feeding molasses to the plants. As already mentioned, there are far better products which can be used as regular plant fertilizer.
Author's Note:
This next part is where I need some guidance from other growers. I've never really gotten into hydroponic or soil-less growing. But, I have heard that mycorrhizae can be introduced and thrive in purely hydroponic and soil-less grows. If that holds true, then is it possible that the increased water usage (compared to a soil grow) may then benefit from some form of constant molasses feeding to prevent the mycorrhizae from "starving" on the roots? Absent the mycorrhizae in hydroponics, it seems that molasses is not needed for hydroponic grows, as other products may produce better overall nutrient-based results.
As stated in the beginning, this FAQ is a work-in-progress. Any corrections and input would be appreciated.
