DiY LEDs - How to Power Them

[The Dawg]

g'day Dawg,
i would like to see that
Will you be doing a journal
VG

Yes I'm In The Process Of Building My Light. Which Is The Citi 1212 4000k 90 CRI I Will Be Using the HLG-240-1750

 

[Bob John Smith]

Hi
I just want to check if the HLG-185H-C1050B can power 4 x CLU048 1818C4 303M2K1?

If not what is a driver that would work?
- I've got 12 x 1818's so was thinking 3 strings of 4 LED's.

Thanks

 

[lilsativa]

I just want to check if the HLG-185H-C1050B can power 4 x CLU048 1818C4 303M2K1?

probably not, as 4 CLU048 1818C4 needs more than 200V and HLG-185H-C1050B can output only 190V

if hlg-185h-1050 has 190 output voltage it means I can run 5 clu048-1212 right?
and if yes which is better options 4 clu048-1212 at 1400mA or 5 at 1400ma?

anyone?

 

[lilsativa]

I Would Also Suggest The 4000k @ 90 CRI, That's My Next Setup. I Run The 4000k In The Vero29 Series And I Love It

thanks for advice.

 

[dr.medecine]

Hi guys, perhaps a silly question but so slow and hard to understand, I have the HLG-120H-48A and I just have a hard time understanding functionality???

It´s to power 2x CLU048 1818 but never used a driver that can do CV and CC, if I understood it correctly it should choose at first time it start up and driving 2x 1818 in parallel it should go into CC mode I suppose.

Mean well US was the only one to get back to my mails so far, great guy but he said the driver is borderline for my Citizen chips and talked about the first start up but then I loose him, I guess what I want to know is if the driver is started in CC mode is that forever or is there a way to reset it later?

I find it hard to find short, precise easy to understand information about these drivers, regarding the standard CC drivers it is easier to understand and info everywhere and pdf is not exactly a handbook (for noobs) either.
Just looking to get going but think better to ask first than potentially sorry later?

 

[frica]

What drivers are the best $/watt wise?

I'm trying to come up with builds that have roughly the same efficiency and price as a 1000watt Gavita. (or better efficiency/same price)

The biggest cost isn't the LED.
It's the LED driver that actually takes up the most amount of money.
With high power COBs, cooling also becomes expensive.

 

[JayDee500]

View attachment 3002619

I've learned more in just this "LED and other Lighting" section than I have on any other forum. I love this kind of thing.

x2 great forum and members Supra is a Stud! I will post my 1st DIY Light, I copied the canopy 10 light spread set up with 10 cobs-1212 3500k Citizen 36volt runs passive up to 1050ma and I add .02 amp PC 90mm case fans at 1400ma, It is a sexy Light imo..
None of this would of been possible, if it wasn't for Members like Supra, Growmau, several other Rollitup members and Staff thank you

 

[OLD MOTHER SATIVA]

"first time it start up and driving 2x 1818 in parallel it should go into CC mode I suppose."

>mine does..

 

[BornGreen1987]

Hi Ladies and Gents,

Got 5 3500K and 3 6500K CXB3590s running at 1400 mA. Trying to get some red/deep red in the spectrum to support flowering. I know 2700ks run at a lower efficiency but can't find the stats. Was thinking of getting 4 of them at 90 CRI, BB bin. Would like to run them at the highest amperage possible while not dipping below 45% efficiency. Plan to mount each of them on their own individual heatsinks and will choose a size larger than necessary to decrease the temperature as well as use some active cooling to boost efficiency.

Trying to get the best mix of efficiency, lumen output, as well as the almighty 650-730nm spectrum. I'm thinking long term and want to build this array for many years of growing so quality of parts is paramount. Is there another option I should be considering? Would 3Ks be the better option? I'm probably covering most of that spectrum with the 3500Ks but want some real nugs.

Feedback much appreciated.

 

[pop22]

the 1212 are 36v nominal, the 1818 is 50v. You can't mix them on a driver

About to attempt my first grow and I've been racking my brain trying to digest all this great information. Could I run a single HLG-320H-C1050 to power 2 x CLU048-1212C4-403H5K2 and 4 x CLU048-1818C4-353H5K2? I am trying to build something for a 4 x 2 x 6 tent that will not break the bank rather than buy a pre-built LED.

 

[pop22]

No it won't work for 4 cobs. You need to download data sheets for cobs and drivers you arte considering, thats how to make a good choice. An HLG240-C1050b will work.

here's a screenshot from the data sheet for the HLG240H series. You'll quickly see what will work for you and what won't. All distributors usually have a link to download these, right on the info page.

Hi
I just want to check if the HLG-185H-C1050B can power 4 x CLU048 1818C4 303M2K1?

If not what is a driver that would work?
- I've got 12 x 1818's so was thinking 3 strings of 4 LED's.

Thanks

 

[Jiddlez]

the 1212 are 36v nominal, the 1818 is 50v. You can't mix them on a driver

Thanks for your reply. So I need to keep with same COB on a single driver and just get more drivers if I want to run different ones because you can't mix voltages.

Due to my poor planning, is there any harm only using up around 200v from a hlg240-1050b?

 

[pop22]

Should be fine, no harm in running at less than max, better for the life of the driver anyway to keep below max output.

Thanks for your reply. So I need to keep with same COB on a single driver and just get more drivers if I want to run different ones because you can't mix voltages.

Due to my poor planning, is there any harm only using up around 200v from a hlg240-1050b?

 

[mufafa]

Would running 8x Vero 29s via 2x HLG 240H-C1400 (+dimming) be too much for 2x4? 4x Vero's per 240H-C1400 would give me 52w per cob at max. Fv @1400ma is 37.2v so 1.4x that 52.1w. And of course I do plan to dim between ~1050 - 1400ma as needed so a range of ~38-52w per cob. Is my math correct on this? Made the mistake of asking elsewhere and now I'm getting many different answers but this seems to be the right place to get a definitive one.

Looking to replace the 400W HPS I have with COBs to give me super even spread over my area.

I'm trying to find a good compromise between canopy penetration and spread especially since I don't have much height available. My HPS stays 12-14" from canopy with no heat issues but I'm worried COBs can't be that close. Open to suggestions!

 

[Colombo77]

After reading like a maniac for a week I think I am ready to start ordering and begin construction before I get too confident I figured I would see if anyone had time to review my plan and offer suggestions. I plan to wire the cobs in series and to use passive heat sinks. I would like to just buy a dimming driver with built in dimming but I feel then the dimming function is up on top of the light out of reach or inconvenient at least. So I am thinking about buying driver with the 0-10V leads for dimming and wiring them to a regular dimming switch from home depot with the ability to cut the power at the switch as well by routing the line voltage through the switch as well, is this sensible?. If I mount the switch on the front will this throw the light off balance? Should I buy lenses of some type? I plan to get the cobs, heat sinks driver etc from Kingbrite. Can I buy some type of 120V plug for the light with built in protection? GFCI and circuit protection? I plan I using all wago lever connectors, zero soldering and wondered if I could protect the connections by heat shrink wrapping the wagos or the junction box I plan to put them in?

My goal a light that is safe, easy to control, solderless, and one that can veg and flower a 3X2 or 4x2. If I missed some place that would tell me all of this information just let me know


Cobs
4 LED COB VERO SE 3500K ROUND w 4 Kingbrite pre drilled heat sink 100W
BXRC-35E10K0-D-73-SE
2100ma 34.8v(min) 37.6v(typ) 40.4v(max)

Driver
1 Mean well 320W Constant Current Mode LED Driver HLG-320H-C
2100ma, 319.2W, 76-152V

 

[PicklesRus]

Constant voltage would be for parallel only, if it puts out 36v. With constant current drivers you can also parallel them but it divides the current between them. But with the constant voltage if you put them in series the driver couldn't drive them, I guess they just wouldn't light up. At least this is my understanding of it.

Also, about the spectrum, 2700k regular is also a good spectrum in my opinion. I use that color LED 100w replacement A19 bulbs for my "early flower" chamber. If you look at the spectrum charts for LEDs you'll see that they have a lot of red. Not quite as high in the red range but still the most red of all available 70-90 CRI. They don't actually sell 95 CRI replacement bulbs anywhere I know of. I also put a couple in with the 4000k COB high bays in my mid-late chambers to improve the overall spectrum. I guess they don't show the 2700 spectrum in most COB data sheets, but they list them in the spec tables so they must be available.

I think I understand constant current drivers pretty well: you run your leds in series and the voltage is used up by each LED and the leftover forward voltage is left unused.

I'm not so clear on constant voltage though.
If I put this cob on this driver what will happen to the leftover power? Will it blow the COB?

VERO 13
31.8 V @ 500ma

Meanwell LPH-18-36
36 V @ 500ma

 

[Tomula]

When you have constant voltage and you connect the COBs in parallel, the current is divided and the voltage stays.

 

[rocho]

HI! I'm studyng about the best light project cobering a 2.3x2.3 tent. (70x70x160cm) And my idea would be for a 200w(should be enought?) of total actual power lamp mounting 4 Vero29 D 3500k run at 1.4 A or at 1050mA ish 190W (5pcs)...I would prefer the second option because i know as vero 29 could run harder with good efficieny but it is also true that less ampere would be not only more lm/w(efficiency) but also less cob temperature (so more Volts/ Wats), and 5 COBs VS 4 COBs would give me a better light distribution cooler (so closer to the plants) but 190w of actuql light may be not enought....am I wrong? Any suggestion will be welcome also for other cob brands. Best regards and many thanx!
HLG-320H-C1050A (up to 8 COBs)306W maybe too much for my space but maybe good if dimming at 700mA

HLG-185H-C1050A (up to 5 vero at 1050mA internal pot) 191W maybe too low power

HLG-320H-C1400A (up to 4 vero 29d at 1.4 internal pot 94% efficiency at full power but even good at 60% at 220V) may be my best choice but driver is more expansive(twice)

HLG-185H-C1400A do not give enought VOLTS for 4 vero 29d run at 1.4A (37,2 volt each one at 25°c)wire in series(active CPU heatsink) but someone said me 100% would works fine and maybe a good cost/power ratio.

Please help me!

 

[Rudi I&I Automan]

HIGH All, well All HIGH i hope I have this led panel from a ufo light fitting, but have no idea how to power it up.
It has 49 little leds (crees I believe?), anyone have any idea how to power it ?
I have some 100w & a 50w drivers for led chips (?) forgot to take a pic of those, but heres the light panel.
Theres an A+ & B+, B- & A- . ignore the cables, i just soldered them on to the A's & B's in prep for some power source.
Anything I may have missed, just ask. thanx Rudi

 

[PicklesRus]

When you have constant voltage and you connect the COBs in parallel, the current is divided and the voltage stays.

So my question then is, what happens if you put too much voltage into a LED, is that overdriving? I presume that will break the LED?

If I have a 36vf LED and I run it at 38v, I presume that would break the LED or at least reduce it's lifespan?

What about providing less voltage to an LED? what if I have a 36v led and give it only 32v? will that also damage the LED?

Gracias!