Fruit trees
- Thread starter Bareback
- Start date
I.G.Rowdit
Well-Known Member
To get anything useful you will have to be much more specific. "Fruit trees" covers so much territory that it would take a couple of volumes to cover all propagation for all fruit trees.
However, so you don't go home empty handed, here is some info about fruit trees of the genus Prunus. Prunus includes Apple, Peach, Pear, Cherry, Plum, Apricot and many others.
Prunus species are generally easy to root as softwood or hardwood cuttings. Good ole WikiPedia is a good place to start searching: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fruit_tree_propagation
Prunus are usually grafted because a root system developed by rooting will be susceptible to as many pests and diseases of the above ground portion. Specially selected root systems can provide resistance to pests and diseases as well as growth control such as dwarfing.
I have rooted many types of fruit producing plants. If you have something particular in mind ask and If I have had experience with the plant I'll tell you how I did it.
I'll close with some encouragement. Prunus species are a good place to start for the novice plant propagator. Once you can root Prunus cuttings you are ready to move on to the more difficult species.
However, so you don't go home empty handed, here is some info about fruit trees of the genus Prunus. Prunus includes Apple, Peach, Pear, Cherry, Plum, Apricot and many others.
Prunus species are generally easy to root as softwood or hardwood cuttings. Good ole WikiPedia is a good place to start searching: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fruit_tree_propagation
Prunus are usually grafted because a root system developed by rooting will be susceptible to as many pests and diseases of the above ground portion. Specially selected root systems can provide resistance to pests and diseases as well as growth control such as dwarfing.
I have rooted many types of fruit producing plants. If you have something particular in mind ask and If I have had experience with the plant I'll tell you how I did it.
I'll close with some encouragement. Prunus species are a good place to start for the novice plant propagator. Once you can root Prunus cuttings you are ready to move on to the more difficult species.
Bareback
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the reply.
I want to multiply my plum trees, I have three varieties now. I have you tubed it and watched numerous videos, read a number of articles. Now I'm looking for a little spoon feeding lol.
My thoughts are,
1. I'll try cuttings with rooting powder, also great white ( different cuttings of course ) . With sawdust as a medium, potting soil also, in one or three gallon nursery pots.
2. Layering, with a limb bent over onto a pot of soil ( this works on my azelias everytime) , same method but with scarification and rooting powder. Scarification with rooting powder, on a limb using a water bottle ( hole cut in the bottom and split up the side filled with soil and duct taped in place ) .
I was planning on starting right after blooming was over so I could select limbs w/out fruit .
I would also like to try this with my blue berry bushes, same methods.
I have root riot cubes and peat moss , propagater w/dome , but I wasn't thinking that this would be a good way to go.
Thanks for help.
I.G.Rowdit
Well-Known Member
You have picked the right day to ask this question. I'm snowed in by the east coast blizzard so I will have time to write an excessively long reply.
First off, the only plum I have rooted is beach plum (Prunus maritima) but Prunus domestica, the common
'fruit' plum, will respond to the same treatment.
I rooted beach plums using hardwood cuttings taken in late March. The cuttings were 4-8 inches long.
The cuttings were wounded, treated with 0.1% IBA powder, and planted in a prepared garden bed and
mulched heavily with leaves. By heavy I mean most of the cutting was covered by a bed of leaves.
This reduces dehydration until roots can form.
Note that the mother plant is completely dormant at this time so the cuttings have no leaves. This is generally referred to as 'hardwood' cutting propagation.
Later in the summer you can try softwood cuttings by using the new growth before it has become woody. I can give you a lot more detail on this if you want, just ask.
Layering works great. If you are successful with layering I would stick with that. You can layer at any time but layering when the plant is dormant, i.e. now, makes the process a lot easier.
If you would like more detail on any of this blather just ask. As I said above, I'm home and I'm not going anywhere.
First off, the only plum I have rooted is beach plum (Prunus maritima) but Prunus domestica, the common
'fruit' plum, will respond to the same treatment.
I rooted beach plums using hardwood cuttings taken in late March. The cuttings were 4-8 inches long.
The cuttings were wounded, treated with 0.1% IBA powder, and planted in a prepared garden bed and
mulched heavily with leaves. By heavy I mean most of the cutting was covered by a bed of leaves.
This reduces dehydration until roots can form.
Note that the mother plant is completely dormant at this time so the cuttings have no leaves. This is generally referred to as 'hardwood' cutting propagation.
Later in the summer you can try softwood cuttings by using the new growth before it has become woody. I can give you a lot more detail on this if you want, just ask.
Layering works great. If you are successful with layering I would stick with that. You can layer at any time but layering when the plant is dormant, i.e. now, makes the process a lot easier.
If you would like more detail on any of this blather just ask. As I said above, I'm home and I'm not going anywhere.
Bareback
Well-Known Member
Thanks again, this is very helpful.
The trees are still dormant now but very close to flowering . I have read about hardwood and softwood cuttings, but was unsure of where the author was located. In respect to time frames March vs June as it relates to location North vs South ( South for me) I was unsure of how to apply the information. I will be sure to do a small raised bed and try some cuttings in it. Being this close to flowering be do you recommend taking cuttings now or waiting till after flowering. Just like your location it is cold here today and is forecasted to be cold for a week or more.
I have large amounts of compost and sawdust ( I have a sawmill , mostly pine sawdust and it is fresh not aged ) ( I have a goat and I compost manure and spent hay mixed with leaf litter aged about a year and well broken down ) , my concern was that the compost might cause mold or other problems for the cuttings and then I was concerned the sawdust was just a bad choice in mediums. Although most of my fruit trees and bushes are packed in sawdust when I purchased them , I figured that was just to keep the roots moist. Can you recommend a medium or combo of mediums.
Feel free to include any information you have that might be interesting . And thanks again
SSGrower
Well-Known Member
Does iba help with other trees too? Specifically pine?
I.G.Rowdit
Well-Known Member
I really should have made it clear that I am in USDA climate zone 6B so the dates I gave would have to be translated to other zones.
My beach plum cuttings rooted in a month. If you are at least a month away from leaf out you might want to give hardwood cuttings a try.
My rooting 'medium' was garden soil that was black and crumbly. Any sort of peat/perlite medium would work as well. Before the peat/perlite medium was invented a sawdust/coarse sand mixture was the hot setup for rooting cuttings. I have never had access to sawdust so I have no personal experience with it.
It sounds like you have some great compost available. Anything you can do with peat/perlite you can do with compost/perlite. I usually reserve compost for seed starting but compost is a terrific medium for both containers and open beds. I doubt if I can tell you anything you don't already know on this subject. I will add that I don't compost fall leaves. I pile them up and use as mulch for seedlings and cuttings as needed through the growing season. I usually run the leaves through a small chipper before using as mulch.
I use peat/perlite for most cutting propagation. Right now I'm using SunGrow brand. I have had success with all commercial peat/perlite mixes EXCEPT those from MiracleGrow. The MG products tend to compact much faster than other brands.
Here is a very general description of how I root softwood cuttings. Note that most herbacious plants, such as Cannabis and Geranium are so easy to root that this description is overkill but it is a baseline that you can use for a jumping off point.
0. Virtually every plant that can be rooted has been studied. Spend some time searching for a technical bulletin of some kind that covers the plants you want to root. Those from universities are usually much better than those from garden web sites.
1. Any sort of container with drain holes will work. I use transparent orchid pots so I can see roots as soon as they develop. If the container has been used before I dip in 10% Chlorox solution then rinse in hot water. Cleanliness is very important in plant propagation.
2. The potting mix must be pre-moistened before using. A general rule for pre-moistening is one part boiling water to five parts dry potting mix. Mix thoroughly and allow to stand in a covered container for a few minutes to make sure all water is absorbed. You should be able to take a handful of moistened mix, squeeze hard and see only a few drop of water. Add more dry mix if too moist.
3. Take cuttings early in the morning, after watering or after rain. The cuttings will have to survive primarily on internal moisture until roots develop. You want to start with a full tank.
4. Wound cuttings if that is suggested by step 0. Treat with appropriate auxin (rooting hormone) and stick in pre-moistened medium.
5. Cover the container with a thin plastic food storage bag. I use the kind that are supposed to be closed with a tie not those with a zipper but either will work. I tuck the bag under the pot.
6. MOST IMPORTANT - remove the bag and turn inside out and replace anytime you see condensation in the bag. Condensation will quickly become bacterial soup so you must deal with it. You may have to do this a couple of times a day.
7. Temperature during rooting is important. Depending on what you discover in step 0 you might need to keep your cuttings on a horticultural heating pad.
8. Cuttings need as much light as you can give them without causing wilting or bleaching. As a very general rule I give cuttings about 50% of the light intensity that adult plants would require. If you don't get a good sense of light requirements from step 0 you will have to work it out for yourself but 50% is a good starting point. You don't need natural light. I have rooted dozens of species under a four-tube fluorescent fixture.
9. When you see roots stop tucking the bag under the pot and just let it sit loosely on the cuttings. At this point you are starting hardening off. After a couple of days take the bag off a couple of times a day for an hour or so. After a week remove the bag completely.
I hope this helps. I'll be glad to continue to answer questions if you have any. Right now I'm going out into the blizzard to shovel my driveway.
Last minute addition. In general, Pines will not root. Pinus radiata is the only species I know if that is propagated by cuttings.
My beach plum cuttings rooted in a month. If you are at least a month away from leaf out you might want to give hardwood cuttings a try.
My rooting 'medium' was garden soil that was black and crumbly. Any sort of peat/perlite medium would work as well. Before the peat/perlite medium was invented a sawdust/coarse sand mixture was the hot setup for rooting cuttings. I have never had access to sawdust so I have no personal experience with it.
It sounds like you have some great compost available. Anything you can do with peat/perlite you can do with compost/perlite. I usually reserve compost for seed starting but compost is a terrific medium for both containers and open beds. I doubt if I can tell you anything you don't already know on this subject. I will add that I don't compost fall leaves. I pile them up and use as mulch for seedlings and cuttings as needed through the growing season. I usually run the leaves through a small chipper before using as mulch.
I use peat/perlite for most cutting propagation. Right now I'm using SunGrow brand. I have had success with all commercial peat/perlite mixes EXCEPT those from MiracleGrow. The MG products tend to compact much faster than other brands.
Here is a very general description of how I root softwood cuttings. Note that most herbacious plants, such as Cannabis and Geranium are so easy to root that this description is overkill but it is a baseline that you can use for a jumping off point.
0. Virtually every plant that can be rooted has been studied. Spend some time searching for a technical bulletin of some kind that covers the plants you want to root. Those from universities are usually much better than those from garden web sites.
1. Any sort of container with drain holes will work. I use transparent orchid pots so I can see roots as soon as they develop. If the container has been used before I dip in 10% Chlorox solution then rinse in hot water. Cleanliness is very important in plant propagation.
2. The potting mix must be pre-moistened before using. A general rule for pre-moistening is one part boiling water to five parts dry potting mix. Mix thoroughly and allow to stand in a covered container for a few minutes to make sure all water is absorbed. You should be able to take a handful of moistened mix, squeeze hard and see only a few drop of water. Add more dry mix if too moist.
3. Take cuttings early in the morning, after watering or after rain. The cuttings will have to survive primarily on internal moisture until roots develop. You want to start with a full tank.
4. Wound cuttings if that is suggested by step 0. Treat with appropriate auxin (rooting hormone) and stick in pre-moistened medium.
5. Cover the container with a thin plastic food storage bag. I use the kind that are supposed to be closed with a tie not those with a zipper but either will work. I tuck the bag under the pot.
6. MOST IMPORTANT - remove the bag and turn inside out and replace anytime you see condensation in the bag. Condensation will quickly become bacterial soup so you must deal with it. You may have to do this a couple of times a day.
7. Temperature during rooting is important. Depending on what you discover in step 0 you might need to keep your cuttings on a horticultural heating pad.
8. Cuttings need as much light as you can give them without causing wilting or bleaching. As a very general rule I give cuttings about 50% of the light intensity that adult plants would require. If you don't get a good sense of light requirements from step 0 you will have to work it out for yourself but 50% is a good starting point. You don't need natural light. I have rooted dozens of species under a four-tube fluorescent fixture.
9. When you see roots stop tucking the bag under the pot and just let it sit loosely on the cuttings. At this point you are starting hardening off. After a couple of days take the bag off a couple of times a day for an hour or so. After a week remove the bag completely.
I hope this helps. I'll be glad to continue to answer questions if you have any. Right now I'm going out into the blizzard to shovel my driveway.
Last minute addition. In general, Pines will not root. Pinus radiata is the only species I know if that is propagated by cuttings.
Bareback
Well-Known Member
Thanks again for your time. I have waited too late to start immediately so I will be a month or so before I try . But I will read up some more and since I work at a college with an AG department I'm going to ask for some hookups on local information, plus I'll spend a little time in the library. And I will let you know how it turns out.
Peace
dannyboy602
Well-Known Member
Loved reading this thread. I used to spend my winters pruning an apple orchard. The memories I have. Me and my golden, Lucky. In the beautiful foothills of Gladyne, PA. More millionaires per square mile than almost anywhere.
You can order small saplings and year old twigs from almost anywhere, don't know why anyone would want to spend time rooting them. I guess maybe if I had a greenhouse. Oh yeah, almost forgot cause I'm high...look up Michael Dirr. He has some great books on woody plant propogation.
Cheers to you in the east...I'm runnin my ac atm here in the valley of the sun.
You can order small saplings and year old twigs from almost anywhere, don't know why anyone would want to spend time rooting them. I guess maybe if I had a greenhouse. Oh yeah, almost forgot cause I'm high...look up Michael Dirr. He has some great books on woody plant propogation.
Cheers to you in the east...I'm runnin my ac atm here in the valley of the sun.
Big_Lou
Well-Known Member
dannyboy602
Well-Known Member
I wuv u
thewanderer718
Well-Known Member
Awesome read !!!!!! Great info !!!!!!!!
Bareback
Well-Known Member
I'mnot sure why anyone would want to spend money on cuttings when you can do it yourself. And I have purchased several trees from the nursery that was miss labeled ( fruit bearing vs ornamental ) so to propagate my own would satisfy my needs and boredom.
Do you know of any links to Michael Dirt's papers on the subject, all I can find is books for sale and their not cheap.
I.G.Rowdit
Well-Known Member
Bearback ,
_Manual of Woody Landscape Plants_ by Michael Dirr is the best investment you can make if you are interested in plant propagation. You don't need the latest edition. If you can find a cheap older edition from a used book dealer buy it. The propagation information rarely changes between editions since propagation details for most species have been worked out long before the plant becomes common enough for Dirr to cover it.
I consult this book constantly. It is the go to source for such questions as:
Will it grow here?
Is it worth growing?
When does it bloom?
What does the bark, leaf, flower, fruit look like?
Are there superior varieties?
Can I root cuttings?
_Manual of Woody Landscape Plants_ by Michael Dirr is the best investment you can make if you are interested in plant propagation. You don't need the latest edition. If you can find a cheap older edition from a used book dealer buy it. The propagation information rarely changes between editions since propagation details for most species have been worked out long before the plant becomes common enough for Dirr to cover it.
I consult this book constantly. It is the go to source for such questions as:
Will it grow here?
Is it worth growing?
When does it bloom?
What does the bark, leaf, flower, fruit look like?
Are there superior varieties?
Can I root cuttings?
Bareback
Well-Known Member
I picked up a copy off eBay this morning for 6$ .
Thanks so much bro.
@dannyboy602 thanks for the Michael Dirr tip I appreciate it
Peace
dannyboy602
Well-Known Member
Great.. $6...wow, thats a bargain. His books are required in most horticulture courses. Was when I was in college. Easy to read. Good story teller too. Can u post pix of your progress? I'm interested in seeing how you make out with propagation.
Thx so much.
Bareback
Well-Known Member
Yeah I'll keep you posted, I will probably have a few questions along the way.
I'm pretty stoked about the book and glad to hear your description of the story telling and easy reading , I'm even more excited now.
Bareback
Well-Known Member
@dannyboy602 and @I.G.Rowdit
Thanks to both of you but I got my book today so I'm going to read myself to sleep with dirty old book lol.
Thanks to both of you but I got my book today so I'm going to read myself to sleep with dirty old book lol.
ROOSTERMAN
Well-Known Member
Google your, state / cornell or your, state agricultural extension .
Most every state has a cornell or agricultural extension with tons of published on line info about propagating fruit tree's
I have never rooted any plum, but they are simple to graft. You can buy a root stock material of a known varity that preforms well in your area for about 3-4$. The scion/bud wood of a varity is about another 3$
The nusireys that sell that kind of stuff usually has incredible selections of varitys some even have experimental varitys
also cornell can put you in touch with local growers that are known to give away scions/cuttings of varitys they grow
Most every state has a cornell or agricultural extension with tons of published on line info about propagating fruit tree's
I have never rooted any plum, but they are simple to graft. You can buy a root stock material of a known varity that preforms well in your area for about 3-4$. The scion/bud wood of a varity is about another 3$
The nusireys that sell that kind of stuff usually has incredible selections of varitys some even have experimental varitys
also cornell can put you in touch with local growers that are known to give away scions/cuttings of varitys they grow