Last I checked Bridgelux doesnt bin its chips. You may be referring to the CCT bins, which arent really relevant to this application.
...All Things Vero...
- Thread starter AquariusPanta
- Start date
Last I checked Bridgelux doesnt bin its chips. You may be referring to the CCT bins, which arent really relevant to this application.
Danielson999
Well-Known Member
I think you're referring to the MacAdam stepping numbers, not bin numbers. Stepping numbers are irrelevant.
PDX Joe
Well-Known Member
Yes, that's what I was looking at. So that's good to know those CCT bins are irrelevant.
PDX Joe
Well-Known Member
Does anybody have opinions on lenses or reflectors for the Vero 29 and the Vero SE? I use Angelina for my Cree CXB. I believe the Angelina don't work on the SE? But, I do like the idea of using the SE for the poke in wire connections. Otherwise, I would get the Molex for the 29s.
GBAUTO
Well-Known Member
I used the Ledil adapter and the Angelina's on my SE's. You will need to source some longer fasteners to bolt it down but it works just fine for me.
PDX Joe
Well-Known Member
Oh good, I thought for some reason it didn't work. Longer screws are an easy fix.
Warpedpassage
Well-Known Member
Has anyone here tried running 6 69v veros on a a single 320hlg c 700 (a)? Im hoping to get about 40 watts per cob with this configuration. I plan on wiring in series. Anyone think this should or could not be done safely?
Youll have about ~35v overhead so yeah, itll work.
420digital
New Member
benchfrooser... as far as i can tell the image is correct!!?
and its exactly like your ASCII Art.
here is my ASCII for this config:
MW+ <__> +A- <__> +B- <__> -MW
MW+| ................................................... |-MW
MW+ <__> +C- <__> +D- <__> -MW
is this right?! since there only is 1x + and 1x - on each MeanWell-Driver, thats why the image above is right too...
MW = Meanwell
___ = Cabel
< > = Connect
..... = Empty Space
please correct me if im wrong, i try to be sure...
benchfrooser
Member
Your thing is a bit confusing. When you have one driver and wanna do two series and parallel LEDs the same two ends (+/-) are connected together.
+ ---A->B--- -
+ ---C->D--- -
420digital
New Member
like in this picture above.. 2x2 in series, and both connected to the same +/- from the driver to make it parallel
90 cri. What do you think you're sacrificing, blue?
frankslan
Well-Known Member
lumen output is much lower Im running 38 volt d version idk if that matters. I have 4 4k currently going to add another 5 at 80 watts. Other than that I'm kind of worried about stretch I have limited height but if the 3k really are much better I guess that's the way to go. Ive been going back and forth all week.
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Lumen output is measured using a green bias, so measuring red light in lumens requires a conversion.. That I don't have here, try look in the conversion threads/search if that interests you
Aka the same light that is 3500k will output more "lumens" than 3000k but that doesn't mean there's less usable light, just that the unit lumens favors the 3500k because its more green/less red than 3000k..
Edit; check out the 80 vs 90 cri threads/posts. Basically we want our lights with lots of red, and the higher cri and lower kelvins seem to be giving us that.
frankslan
Well-Known Member
okay cool Ill check that out if I can find it. Been doing a lot of research I cant even find the graphs for the 90 cri I did check out the decor line.
Hmm, they seem to either hide or not have graphs for a lot of temp/cri
Im in the process of building a light with 2ft 3000k strips (BXEB-L0560Z-30E2000-C-A3) and 2700k v10 97cri (BXRC-27H1000-B-23). $5 ea v10 2700k and $7.50 ea 2ft 3000k strip..!