Rosin King 3x5 dual-heat Review

[hydra-glide]

Found my RK a few $ cheaper on ebay, direct from China. It arrived with the same technical instructions as the ones bought from amazon, which I've included.
http://www.dhgate.com/product/double-rosin-press-plates-heavy-duty-rosin/394294574.html#review-1-null
• My two heat rod elements do not click into final position as the video illustrates.
The video-instructor runs through setting the box up for Fahrenheit and temp. set rapidly, so for all of the dim-bulb plate owners, this will necessitate bringing the control box next to our keyboards, and hand-write some simplified instructions using the < and > YouTube to replay the procedure. Owen, from RK, sent me this PDF of the instructions that ship with the units.
I cut a section of leather belt and placed it in the bottom of the counter bore to isolate the press-ram from the plate bottom. Seems to work okay, ram got warm - not a problem.
So, if you bought your set from amazon and both of your heating rods "click" into final position, then I probably received old stock, but saved $20. - who knows? "Clicking" the rods into place reassures constant metal to metal contact.
Here's the process and results. I'm satisfied with my purchase. Having both plates heat simultaneously is helpful. Now I need to learn how to set the heat limits to 200F and I'll be camping. Note: I use PTFE Oil Slick Sheet (roll) to press, not 25-micron press-cloths. Nothing sticks to PTFE.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AWK04IQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If anyone can dummy-down and post simple, distilled instructions from this group of confusing facts, please have at it!

 

[OLD MOTHER SATIVA]

i think i had the next model up...i fiddled around..and its in f already

i just push "set"..then increment to 200..after turning each probe on

it seems to go past the set temp then make its way back dowm

they are well made..i have big success squishing bubble hash..it comes outblike good shatter

how ever dry sift i do not get the quality and i have yet to make enough rosin from a bud..

i cannotunderstand the process you did though..its beyond my computer sleuthing

 

[hydra-glide]

Here's RosinKings video. I have the RK control box next to my computer so I can step-by-step using the pause button:

 

[Yodaweed]

Found my RK a few $ cheaper on ebay, direct from China. It arrived with the same technical instructions as the ones bought from amazon, which I've included.
http://www.dhgate.com/product/double-rosin-press-plates-heavy-duty-rosin/394294574.html#review-1-null
• My two heat rod elements do not click into final position as the video illustrates.
The video-instructor runs through setting the box up for Fahrenheit and temp. set rapidly, so for all of the dim-bulb plate owners, this will necessitate bringing the control box next to our keyboards, and hand-write some simplified instructions using the < and > YouTube to replay the procedure. Owen, from RK, sent me this PDF of the instructions that ship with the units.
I cut a section of leather belt and placed it in the bottom of the counter bore to isolate the press-ram from the plate bottom. Seems to work okay, ram got warm - not a problem.
So, if you bought your set from amazon and both of your heating rods "click" into final position, then I probably received old stock, but saved $20. - who knows? "Clicking" the rods into place reassures constant metal to metal contact.
Here's the process and results. I'm satisfied with my purchase. Having both plates heat simultaneously is helpful. Now I need to learn how to set the heat limits to 200F and I'll be camping. Note: I use PTFE Oil Slick Sheet (roll) to press, not 25-micron press-cloths. Nothing sticks to PTFE.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AWK04IQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If anyone can dummy-down and post simple, distilled instructions from this group of confusing facts, please have at it!

PTFE rolls should not be heated and pressed, for health reasons it's not safe.

 

[hydra-glide]

"PTFE rolls should not be heated and pressed, for health reasons it's not safe."
•••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••
Any literature to support that Yoda. Here's what the mfgr. says about PTFE:

"For a pristine result, inspect your Slick Sheet for airborne debris before each use. DO NOT OVERHEAT. Heat in excess of 500°F may damage the Slick Sheet."

I'm thinking any heat over 500-degrees and you'll have chemical transfer. Where'd you hear about health risks?

 

[JohnDoeTho]

Damn how much this bad boy run ya!? I was looking at one made by hpn but it dosnt look this serious....

Edit: and isn't 200 kind of low? Seems like I've been reading about a little bit higher temps?

 

[hydra-glide]

It was $295. shipped from ebay. Get yours from amazon in case there's any problems. Mine works fine, when I sit down with it and the video and program it for 200F + or so, I'll be happy. Yes, 200F seemed low and failed to press some 190, 160, into anything other than "pressed vegetable matter" that went to the "cookie dough" pile.
But, 200-210 made some nice shatter-crumble from otherwise junk bubble 45, 90, 120. I might go with 210F and see what I get. Thnx

 

[JohnDoeTho]

Check this out give it a whirl. They seem to imply you would want to start around 250.

Edit: forgot to supply pic lol

 

[JohnDoeTho]

At 210 your probably not extracting nearly what you could be.

 

[JohnDoeTho]

Using a 25micron screen right?

 

[hydra-glide]

"Using a 25micron screen right?"
Uhh, no. Using PTFE film. I use the 25-mic screen to remove water from bubble.
I'll try the higher temps in the future as suggested by the literature. Thanx!

 

[JohnDoeTho]

I thought you were using the ptfe film as the parchment paper? Maybe I don't actually know what that stuff is. Usually people surround what they are pressing with some sort of screen with 25micron holes or close. Then surround that in parchment paper to catch what is pressed through the screen.

 

[hydra-glide]

Right, the ptfe is my parchment paper. I squish and it spreads and drains off the edge of the ptfe sometimes, but nothing is lost. If I press anything into a 25-micron sheet or fold over, a bunch of it's going to get pressed into the weave and be there forever. I never understood why people would press pollen or bubble in 25-micron folded sheets and then have to dig it out from the weave? Or I may have it all wrong.

 

[JohnDoeTho]

Well I have no experience so your a step ahead of me. I've just been trying to research as much as possible so that I'm ready to go when I get it. I will imagine there will be some rosin in the screen remaining. But they advertise they are reusable. So it was my thinking that I wouldn't even bother trying to get the rosin out of the screen and simply reuse. New press will force any built up
Rosin on the screen out and you will have the same residual rosin getting cycled out on the screen every press. Without using some type of screen I don't think you going to catch nearly as much. The whole idea is to give the wax an area to freely escape to. Which if you use a 25 micron screen and your ptfe paper the space to freely escape will lay inbetween the screen and ptfe paper.

 

[hydra-glide]

This is PTFE.

This is your brain on PTFE. 100% harvest-able. No skid marks, no lost trich-squish.

 

[JohnDoeTho]

Hehe, yea it's obviously working. I can't help but wonder if your actually getting it all though? I don't see any problems with the ptfe paper, but the logic tells me you really want an area that only the wax can escape to which is the reason for the 25 micron screen. None the less press on brother!

 

[JohnDoeTho]

Btw you have inspired me to build my own vs getting one of the basically modified t shirt presses. Will only be a little more in the end and won't get much better.

 

[JohnDoeTho]

Buy those plates on Amazon and a 20 ton hydraulic press from my hardware store and good to go!

 

[hydra-glide]

You can do it with a 12-ton jack and a harbor freight bench press. The plates should have heat control to both bottom and top plates, imo. You could outsmart yourself on this. Better to get the RosinKing at the best price you can find, imo.
https://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-shop-press-33497.html
"one of the basically modified t shirt presses"
Don't do it. Farmer did a T-shirt press buy, and now he's stuck with a too large t-shirt press that really doesn't do the job. And imo, you don;t want any of this goo to bleed through to a 25-micron screen. There is no residue on PTFE and the sheet lasts if you don't crease the dog-piss out of it, or scrape it till it's beat. Here's your roll, just go buy it and be at peace. Leve the micron cloths for pressing water from bubble.
https://smile.amazon.com/Oil-Slick-Labratory-Resistant-Alternative/dp/B00AWK04IQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501176673&sr=8-1&keywords=PTFE+sheets

 

[JohnDoeTho]

Lol you read my mind!!! I was figuring a 12 ton would be more then enough (especially compared to the supposed 600lb limit with the one I was previously looking at) I was gonna get your same plates they had on Amazon for 319.99. Looks like they easily mount onto the jack cylinder and bam, top notch rosin press.