OrganicGorilla
Well-Known Member
Your plant at that stage would have been perfect to do LST. Bend over the stock to a 90degrees and pin her down.
Edward Scissorhands?
- Thread starter PuffnDragon
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PuffnDragon
Member
Mine are 8-9 weeks flowering, or 56-63 days days. If I include cat stress, cold stress, and knuckling and pruning, I've likely added 2 weeks of delay as a rough guess.
This forum had a similar question asked and the responses were that you can remove the leaves, but have to be careful how you do it. I did leave a few of mine, but I didn't cut any until Flower, and I cut them all at once instead of over time. Maybe the idea of just bending them back is better since that can be undone if adverse affects are seen. There are many forums where growers advise cutting fan leaves is ok, but you have to do it carefully.
Anyhow I'll post an update in 2 weeks on them after this.
PuffnDragon
Member
Totally agree and would not do what I did again. Scrogging isn't as easy as I had hoped. I used fishing line which was the first bad move. It can cut into the plant at times. I'm going to LST going forward. Knuckling also seems to slow plant growth I think. More stress than you need to put on the plant I think. Here is what they look like in the start of Week 6 of an 8-10 week flower. Scrog removed now.
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PuffnDragon
Member
The sarcasm is thick on this one ha ha. That looks like a Uhaul grow room you have there. They say 10 days can do a lot for the plant and I have 14 more till I begin my 2week flush. I'll post a final update before I cut them down. Clones are starting week 3 and appear to be still alive. 4 of 5 have survived so far after being cut from flowering stage. I just posted a reply to someone in Week 6 with plants full of leaves, but tiny buds. Growing these under 250W so we'll see if I get 250g yield lol
PuffnDragon
Member
They're actually 8-10week flowering plants I read on the strain genetics. I need the extra time too. If what others say is true about plants growing a lots in just 10 days during flowering, then I still could do ok here. Middle of week 6 now and if I go 3.5 more weeks before cutting there is a lot of time for growth still. Monitoring for red hairs right now and not much to see yet.
DMXKk17
Active Member
Here is my reply now, I am on day 50 from when she popped out of the soil and day 20 of flower You really need to get yourself some Sensi Skunk. She is only 2 foot tall but she's providing so far
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PuffnDragon
Member
Those look good. I just butchered my grow in so many ways. The CFL to start which made them lanky, the cat twice, the move to the garage and back, the various temp and humidity changes, the excessive if not at all needed canopy trim, etc have effected my grow. I'm not sure, but I hope I can get another 1.5 weeks of nutrients, then 2 weeks of flush before I crop them. My next group of clones will hopefully be better. Going to LST them instead too instead of scrogging. It's not that bad, but I think LST will be easier and adjustable with less stress once I set it up correctly.
DMXKk17
Active Member
Lol this is a CFL stealth grow and the only nutes used is tomorite!
Is not that stealthy though, if you have problems with odour neutraliser then this starts smelling 3 weeks into veg. It is now stinking the external of the grow room out and it is only 1 plant. If you have a carbon filter it is deffo recommend for this strain
PuffnDragon
Member
No worries of smell here. My 2 don't stink that bad that I'm worried about it, and I smoke in the same room (kind of sadistic when you think about it) so the smell is already strong. I bought a bug/air freshener sprayer that goes off every 30mins. It was too much and I have no bugs so I turned it off for now. Smells like lemon herbs to me
I will likely grow more plants and just get more light to them and use LST. I do have a fan for spring/summer grows, but haven't needed all the extra gear for this grow.PuffnDragon
Member
My CFL grow was in regards to my post that details my grow. I used a 40W CFL bulb to start to seeds and they were stretching a lot until I got a 250W HPS.
Also, it's legal to grow medicinal marijuana in Canada and in July should be legal for everyone to regardless of medical needs.
deno
Well-Known Member
First, don't worry about leaves taking nutrients. Nutrients are cheap. The primary reason I prune is to allow light to reach shaded areas where buds are growing (in flowering), and to allow lower potential bud sites to get light which encourages them to grow (during veg). You only need to do this if you have heavy foliage that is shading parts of your plant. Like Lite, my goal is to have a blanket of green that absorbs as much of lamps energy as possible. The main reason I LST is to get as much of my plant as near the light as possible. You will only get good yields in the intense zone of any light (except sunlight). If I were you, I'd LST your plant in a spiral shape, and get the light as close as possible. LSTing will not slow the growth of your plant if more of it gets more light as a result. Its just the opposite.
DMXKk17
Active Member
Haha I wish! The UK laws are a jokeMy CFL grow was in regards to my post that details my grow. I used a 40W CFL bulb to start to seeds and they were stretching a lot until I got a 250W HPS.
Also, it's legal to grow medicinal marijuana in Canada and in July should be legal for everyone to regardless of medical needs.
PuffnDragon
Member
Totally agree and I just cut my scrog apart so that it wasn't cutting into the branches. I used fishing lines not knowing the type of pressure it was going to receive. I'll bend what branches I need so everything gets as much light as possible. Another 10 days before I begin to flush and crop them. Hoping the clones are working as I didn't plant any more seeds and don't want to wait 3-5 weeks longer to have the next harvest ha ha. Canada will delay it's go-live July 1st Cannabis Day celebrations I think.
deno
Well-Known Member
Keep in mind you can LST without a net. I used to use strings and weights all the time. Doesn't work as good as a net, but is completely adequate. It just takes more effort, and you'll have to string them 'up' once they start getting heavy. But that's a good problem to have.
Just to clarify what I mean by intensity zone of a light. Roughly speaking the power of your light drops off with the square of the distance. The power at 2 feet is 4 times weaker than the power at 1 foot. At 3 feet, it is 9 times weaker. Your light's reflector messes with this equation, but in general it's a good rule of thumb. You want the plants close.
Just to clarify what I mean by intensity zone of a light. Roughly speaking the power of your light drops off with the square of the distance. The power at 2 feet is 4 times weaker than the power at 1 foot. At 3 feet, it is 9 times weaker. Your light's reflector messes with this equation, but in general it's a good rule of thumb. You want the plants close.
SchmoeJoe
Well-Known Member
That's the "inverse square proportion law" of lighting. That, "apical dominance", and the plants biochemical response to stretch out are the most important things that need to be understood when it comes to the how and why of pruning and training.
Basically there's a pretty narrow sweet spot in the distance from the light where you'll get ideal light intensity and that's where you want your tops. If you have a plant that's more than a couple of feet tall the you're not going to get strong enough light to the bottom regardless of training and leafing unless you're running extra lights.
Apical dominance is how the plant focuses on tops. Anything but very small sea of sized plants will divert resources to the tips to the point that they stunt lower growth and big outdoor plants that aren't carefully pruned will even abort growth and let it die.
Shaded lower growth that the plant would probably already neglect gets a double whammy because of their natural response to stretch for the light.
You can prune out a bunch of leaves to try to get more light to the lowest branches but there's already the principles of the inverse square proportion law and apical dominance that are still going to be working against those buds. That's why my preference is to just not have those lower and inner nodes.
PuffnDragon
Member
Follow-up to this messy grow lol and the beginning of a much better grow, still with it's problems. https://www.rollitup.org/t/saving-a-bad-crop.955992/#post-14019963