2500 watts / 4' X 4'.

stawawager

Well-Known Member
Go with the Quantums, you will thank me later. But my big question is why do you have three plants in one pot? That just opens a can of worms that could lead to root competition and possible stunted budding or growth over it.
Several reasons, but ease-of-use and automation is the main driver.
1. More soil volume for increased root ability.
2. More soil for increased water capacity (water less often).
3. Eliminate Juggling separate pots which is hard on the plants, dragging against the wall and each other during tending.
4. It's designed to be an SIP but I've been watering from the top.

The 3 plants are all the same size and doing great @ 10 weeks, one or two more weeks and it's time to start the stink.

This is my second successful (so far) grow in the big pot.

QB looks good, I like the low profile and multiple light advantage. I need a 3' diameter circle board lol. 9 sqft more like it.
 
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MasterpieceNutes

Well-Known Member
On your profile pic, are those all single cobs with dedicated fans?

Thanks for the info on the leaf orientation. I really noticed it when I turned on the cob those babies went straight up.

Right now I'm letting them dry out because I have to lower the heavy tub to the floor or I'm going to have a height problem. ...again.
Single cob to each fan. 4 per light. 2x4 coverage. 288watts. 1560ma or so.. sweetspot with cxm22's.. RELEVANT: You'll get more light in a 4x4 with these for 576 watts.. THATS 1900 watts electrical savings AND more light..
 

stawawager

Well-Known Member
2 x 600w DE CMH is what Id look into.
Does CMH run hotter than HPS?

I've never seen either. I avoided both because I thought they ran as hot as a halogen, maybe stupidly. so bought 3 nearly worthless 300 watt LEDs.

Now I'm running a 3 x 3 Cob. 10x better than LED! But 3 x 3 isn't enough for 4'x4'.

Arn't quantum boards the next best invention?
 

jimihendrix1

Well-Known Member
CMH runs cooler. Not a lot, but it does.

Either 2 DE CMH, or 2 600w HPS with Hortilux HPS Superbulb. Id probably be tempted to combine 1 of each. I usually run 1000w Hortilux with great results. But the color rendering on the CMH is great, just not positive watt, for watt, that anything will outperform HPS, except the DE Gavita ect, and you have to have a lot of height.

If I went HPS I would use the Hortilux HPS Superbulb. Of which I p[robably would, because I know I get results from it.

Both need good ventilation though
 

jimihendrix1

Well-Known Member
ALso, not saying they don't put a a good deal of heat, like any HID bulb. Its more efficient, and puts out less heat per watt vs HPS. HPS may make for slightly larger buds. But the quality of CMH may be better.


Ceramic Metal Halide Lights: What They Are And How To Use Them



If you’ve been wondering about Ceramic Metal Halide or Light Emitting Ceramic grow lights, you’re on the right track. CMH grow lights are hands down the best HID grow lamp technology available on the market right now.

Also known as LEC grow lights, they have the best PAR spectrum of any HID lamp, the slowest degradation rate, and they’re also at least 10% more efficient than other HID lamps.


The Advantages of CMH Grow Lights

In summary:

  • Balanced spectrum
  • Better PAR efficiency than MH or HPS
  • High CRI for visual appeal
  • UV supplementation
  • Lower heat output watt per watt
  • Last longer than other HID grow lights
Notice the Lower Heat Output per Watt???

600w DE CMH may run 5 degrees cooler vs HPS.
 
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stawawager

Well-Known Member
and you have to have a lot of height.
Sounds good.

Seems like every grow I run out of height but never out of the learning curve so far.

After I put the cob on them, they took off like weeds. Ceiling is already at 5.5' not counting the 16" soil height. With some pretty good hassle I can raise the ceiling about 18"

but I'm considering doing some LST on the tops even though I just started 12/12, 3 days ago. Bad idea?
 

stawawager

Well-Known Member
All four were that size. Only vegged 6 weeks top grow in Tupur soilless mix under a 600w. Here's another one and some of the bud up close.
View attachment 4066147 View attachment 4066150
I probably have too many Bud sites to achieve that size. I'll get a pic.

Is your skin allergic to weeds? Mine is. I'm guessing you are gloved-up to keep germs off of them though?

That's got to be a strong stem to hold that thing up. Do you keep a fan on them 24 hours / day?
 

thenotsoesoteric

Well-Known Member
I probably have too many Bud sites to achieve that size. I'll get a pic.

Is your skin allergic to weeds? Mine is. I'm guessing you are gloved-up to keep germs off of them though?

That's got to be a strong stem to hold that thing up. Do you keep a fan on them 24 hours / day?
Nah the glues are so I don't get sticky resin all over my hands when I was handling the plants. In the past I didn't use gloves and the sticky resin would be on my hands for days it seemed.

I purposely grew those plants out a little bigger because I had the spare room and wanted less work. Typically I prefer 8 or 9 midsize plants but its more work than 4 big ones. If you have smaller plants with more buds sites then you can make up for the size difference a little in final weight.
 

GreenLogician

Well-Known Member
Its more efficient, and puts out less heat per watt vs HPS.
If you read around Rollitup you'll find many people addressing this as a common misunderstanding. At least in technical, super accurate terms.
The thing is that using the same amount of watts always puts the same amount of heat into the garden. No matter the lighting technology.
It's counter intuitive because there is a difference in how much light per watt different lighting technologies put out.
The reason why it's like that though, is because all the output energy ends up as heat eventually. As the light bounces around and gets absorbed.

Hps put out more infra red, radiant heat. Beaming it directly onto your plants in a very noticable and hard to manage way.
Efficient LED put out the same heat per watts, but lots of it is directed out the back through the heatsinks, instead of beamed onto the plants.

This makes heat management easier, and can easily be perceived as heat reduction.
But actual reductions in total heat come from being able to use less watts (because you're getting more light per watt, not less heat per watt).
 

stawawager

Well-Known Member
I have to wash it off or I might gnaw on my arm.

How much do you lose by not having a white wall close by?

Pic: Lifting SIP to get the shelf under it.20171118_150742-1328x747b.jpg
 

thenotsoesoteric

Well-Known Member
It's thick but I think its manageable if you plan on tying the tops down or putting in some trellis or netting because those tops will stretch good on you and then it may get a bit tight. I'd rather have too much plant than too little because you can always cut a little back if it gets too crowded.

Otherwise it's looking good.
 

stawawager

Well-Known Member
It's thick but I think its manageable if you plan on tying the tops down or putting in some trellis or netting because those tops will stretch good on you and then it may get a bit tight. I'd rather have too much plant than too little because you can always cut a little back if it gets too crowded.

Otherwise it's looking good.
Thanks. My 4th grow. I've been doing LST, I'm guessing they don't like that much tho. I forgot about tying them down. I'm guessing that's better? Maybe a lot better? I actually set that tub up to accept structures (trellis) to tie off to.

Do you support your monster colas or are they free standing?
 
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