opinions on my next light

blackmelo

Well-Known Member
Hello people and happy new year.



This year for the first time I have decided to do a full grow from seed to harvest using only LED lighting!



I actually looked back at my receipt and it is coming up to nearly 5 years that I first started growing with LED lights.



Back then infra red and uv lights had just been introduced and were the latest craze so I got myself an 11 band spectrum light with 100 x 3watt diodes drawing about 150watts of power.



The spectrums used were 380/415/440/460/480/615/630/660/720/740/760nm



This led is still going strong being used 18 hours per day for vegg only.



Like many growers trying out led lighting I discovered that led lighting even with 11 bands just wasn't ready yet, it just wasn't comparing to HPS, the plants didn't grow right and I attempted flowering but could tell I was wasting my time with leds.



Well that was 5 years ago. I decided to do a bit of research as to what has been going on in the LED market and I found some interesting info since.



I remember 5 years ago people were saying 3watts are good but lack the penetration that hps provides. Now 5 years later 5 watt and 10 watt diodes are being sold but people are saying 3 watt diodes are in fact the most efficient now with 10 watts using more power than the 3 watt equivalent.



Cobs are the latest technology being introduced it seems but I have not been overly sold on them yet. Maybe someone can help me with a good link to why cobs are better than no cobs? I know they are the right spectrum and I have seen 500 watts of cobs compare to a 1000watt hps over in america already.



The biggest breakthrough in LED technology is in my opinion the fact that more is understood about the spectrums we should be providing.



If you look at the spectrum of my 11 band light there are 3 diodes emitting infra red light at 720, 740 and 760 nm



There is also 1 diode emmitting UV light at 380nm.



Although a lot of people believe these wavelengths are beneficial it has been shown that plants can only absord between 400-700nm



Anything outside of these ranges can't be absorbed and is thus wasted light, so in my optinion 4 of my 11 bands are wasted.



Even if the uv might promote higher thc content I doubt one tiny 3w led over the entire grow area (1 diode out of the 100 is a uv at 380nm) will make any difference and even then uv diodes are the least efficient diode producing very little energy, also it is UVB that is if at all meant to boost thc, 380nm is UVA and thus does nothing useful. I would much prefer to have one more red diode instead that will definetely produce a bit more weight.



The other big discovery has been that too much blue light is detrimental, anything over 20% blue spectrum has been shown to stunt growth. The ideal ratio is between 5:1 to 8:1 red to blue light. Regardless of vegg or flower, yes plants respond well to a maybe 10% or 20% increase in red light in flowering but you see grow lights with a 1:1 ratio of blue to red, this is no good.

The third major breakthrough and in my opinion the biggest one is that green light is not just wasted light as has been claimed for so long.

Finally NASA has evidence that green light is used more efficiently to produce energy in foliage plants than blue light.




The reason it has been believed for so long that green light is useless is because a lot of early research with led's was performed on aquatic plants and the fish hobbyist market.



For them red and blue are king with green not penetrating water far enough to do aquatic plants much good.



Hower on land for plants outside of water with leaves it has now been shown that green light is not wasted, plants have adapted to use green light also and it forms an important role for leafy plants which is not yet fully understood.



One thing we do know is that red and blue are absorbed readily at the canopy, being very efficient doing so and letting no light get through to the canopy below.



What this means is the plant has to divert energy from the canopy to create growth below where growth comes out looking weird (compared to a plant grown outdoors).



Ok so back to why led's so far have not persuaded me to change from hps is this spindly undergrowth pattern and nobody knowing why on paper led's are far more efficient than HPS yet in practice the lights lack penetration and undergrowth comes out spindly. One reason is that led's so far lack green light, It has now been shown that red and blue is absorbed at the canopy whereas green is not absorbed very efficiently at all and thus passes through the leaves and travels down the veins and stems getting absorbed along the way till it is all absorbed by the lower canopy.

Also if you leave out green light then you must provide more red and blue light in order to compete with the hps.

The hps is already in most cases delivering at 100% of what the plants can absorb (just inefficiently using more electricity) so in order for an led to compete it has to provide more red and blue but this in turn overloads the plant and creates burnt leaves.

A very common problem with led's apparently from google searches.



So if leds, can provide energy via a third wavelength then the plant can receive 50% more energy than using just red and blue and suddenyl leds are performing as well as hps's using 30-40% less energy.



I have provided a few of the sources I came across supporting the green light theory in case anyone wants to do some reading:



This user cannot post links as he is not liked enough




Ok so if only it were that simple. It seems that the reason manufacturers have been pushing this red/blue spectrum stuff has been half based on truths but also based on what was available on the market. Red diodes are the most efficient producing the most amount of photons per watt and are the cheapest to make.

Green diodes are terrible and using them would be taking a step back in trying to compete with HPS.



However a new diode has been invented which is a full spectrum white light diode. It's a 425nm blue diode coated with a yellow phosphorous coating that gives off a very nice white light. When the blue light hits the yellow phosphorous coating, green light is produces along with a wide range of other spectrums that can all be absorbed by the plant.



It has been discovered that these white light diodes produce more green light than the green diodes we currently have and they also produce red, blue and many other colours that can all be absorbed by the plant so a very efficient light.



The newest led on the market in the uk is the Plessey Hyperion white light using only white diodes producing 1.9 mol per watt

can't post a link but you can find it on google

and if you look at the light spectrum is emits there is plenty of red, plenty of green and a bit of blue.



Based on my latest research it is the best led available here in the uk at the moment however it is out of my price range.



I have since come across the Bloomspect 600w led light and think it ticks all the boxes. Has no useless wavelengths, a lot of red, a bit of blue and some white bulbs to fill in the missing spectrums.


can't post the link yet again but you can find it on amazon



I know its a cheap copy and won't be as good as the best but it is 5+ times cheaper so I am going to give this light a go for flowering this year. The youtube reviews look good, the internet reveiws look good, the specs look good.



Anybody with some advice or experience with the bloomspect, let me know what you think.



After writing all of this down I feel like this is more of an experiment than trusted evidence but the technology at £100 for a 600w light that draws about 300 watts I think is cheap enough to justify this experiment.



The only other alternative I found which is still a lot more expensive is from budtech UK



This light looks really good and has the latest cob technology but it is a lot more expensive still so I have decided to try the bloomspect for now and hopefully in 3 years time I can switch to cobs when they should be more affordable.



Sorry about the long post. Worried I might be wasting my time but hopeful that I have found a light that can create a similar spectrum to the cob lights and be a bit more efficient than HPS.



I have read so many posts about people switching to LED's only to have realised they've wasted several months to then switch back again. I'm hoping that has all been down to the lack of green in led lights so far which has now been addressed with white diodes and white chip cobs.

Thanks guys. Happy growing
 

Krytend

Well-Known Member
I'm confused your going with garbage epistar diods over C.O.Bs or PCBs in 2018 and asking us if this is a good idea?
 

Rahz

Well-Known Member
Green is alright. Some evidence suggests full spectrum is better than blurple. I'm still not sure after all these years. Problem is nobody has done comparative grows using radiometric data and grams per par watt or PPFD. I've said in the past that this is due to lack of reasonable blurple options for doing a comparative grow...

But this is untrue. I did some analysis of Apogees most recent par meters. Correction factor among various cobs was between 1 and 2 percent. It might be a little more using a blurple source but it's not a problem. Digitize the response curve and factor it into the spectrum for both lamps.

So, a test can be done with any crappy blurple lamp off Amazon that comes with a spectral graph. 2 tents either 2x2 or 3x3. In one tent goes the blurple lamp. Par readings are taken of the blurple spectrum in a grid at a set height. Use a correction factor to determine the necessary values the cob light in the other tent is dimmed until par readings are correct. Any old cob lamp can be used, it just needs to have higher max par and dimming capability. (A more sloppy way would be to not bother with correction values and just get the same PAR readings, but this could cripple the cobs by maybe 5% or more.)

Then you do a grow and see what happens. May the best light win.

That would provide information about the questions you're asking. Does full spectrum really work better than blurple with all that green? Or does the right amount of blue with an abundance of red making up the rest provide the best yield?

However, even if blurple is as good or better, good luck finding a retail offering that takes advantage of the spectrum. 10,000 different blurple options on Amazon and they all have really bad radiant efficiency. You could build a blurple lamp from individual diodes. That would take some research and effort.

Why not just build a cob lamp? How much do you/can you spend? It's possible to build a 65-70% efficient lamp if you have the cash. More reasonable to build something in the 55-60% efficient range. Even if you can only afford to build something in the 45-50% efficiency range, it will still beat the pants off anything you can buy at Amazon.

Hello people and happy new year.

Thanks guys. Happy growing
 

Dave455

Well-Known Member
Green is alright. Some evidence suggests full spectrum is better than blurple. I'm still not sure after all these years. Problem is nobody has done comparative grows using radiometric data and grams per par watt or PPFD. I've said in the past that this is due to lack of reasonable blurple options for doing a comparative grow...

But this is untrue. I did some analysis of Apogees most recent par meters. Correction factor among various cobs was between 1 and 2 percent. It might be a little more using a blurple source but it's not a problem. Digitize the response curve and factor it into the spectrum for both lamps.

So, a test can be done with any crappy blurple lamp off Amazon that comes with a spectral graph. 2 tents either 2x2 or 3x3. In one tent goes the blurple lamp. Par readings are taken of the blurple spectrum in a grid at a set height. Use a correction factor to determine the necessary values the cob light in the other tent is dimmed until par readings are correct. Any old cob lamp can be used, it just needs to have higher max par and dimming capability. (A more sloppy way would be to not bother with correction values and just get the same PAR readings, but this could cripple the cobs by maybe 5% or more.)

Then you do a grow and see what happens. May the best light win.

That would provide information about the questions you're asking. Does full spectrum really work better than blurple with all that green? Or does the right amount of blue with an abundance of red making up the rest provide the best yield?

However, even if blurple is as good or better, good luck finding a retail offering that takes advantage of the spectrum. 10,000 different blurple options on Amazon and they all have really bad radiant efficiency. You could build a blurple lamp from individual diodes. That would take some research and effort.

Why not just build a cob lamp? How much do you/can you spend? It's possible to build a 65-70% efficient lamp if you have the cash. More reasonable to build something in the 55-60% efficient range. Even if you can only afford to build something in the 45-50% efficiency range, it will still beat the pants off anything you can buy at Amazon.
What configuration would deliver 70% ?
 

Rahz

Well-Known Member
What configuration would deliver 70% ?
Vero 29C 3000K 80CRI is about 68% efficient at 350ma. That means a 3000K 70CRI spectrum with similar characteristics would be hitting 70% at same current. Unfortunately Veros don't come in 3000K 70CRI. Citizens do though...

Buddy is currently revisiting a grow off between 3500K 80CRI and 3000K 70CRI. In theory the 3500K 80CRI has a better spectrum but the 3000K 70CRI output is much better. It proved to be superior during the vegetative state... similar morphology but a few extra inches of height. Currently about half way through flower, both looking nice. Won't know which wins for another month or so.

I'm not going to do the math but CLU058-1825 is probably hitting +- 70% at 25 watts depending on spectrum. Even something like the 1212 can probably hit 70% at some current.

You guys (nobody particular) have been focused on lower and lower prices the last couple years. Never mind the fact that ROI levels things out over the long run. Retail products don't generally have the functionality to provide reasonable PPFD readings when dimmed to those levels, but DIYers don't have that excuse.
 

blackmelo

Well-Known Member
Thx for the help on this. I really don't care about building my own system... If I'm asking to buy a car at a dealership I don't expect him to go psst these are all crap, you can build a better one yourself.

So it definetely needs to be cob these days? What makes cobs so good? I mean I believe it, I would like to understand why they can produce a better radiant efficiency though. No need to even dim them or are you saying watt for watt cob will always beat any other light?
Sorry if I am not more clued up on this. Got a bit of time off due to bad back atm but normally I work full time and barely have the time to do housework let alone spend all day researching whether the latest tech out there is working well or not so thought I'd ask.
 

Krytend

Well-Known Member
Thx for the help on this. I really don't care about building my own system... If I'm asking to buy a car at a dealership I don't expect him to go psst these are all crap, you can build a better one yourself.

So it definetely needs to be cob these days? What makes cobs so good? I mean I believe it, I would like to understand why they can produce a better radiant efficiency though. No need to even dim them or are you saying watt for watt cob will always beat any other light?
Sorry if I am not more clued up on this. Got a bit of time off due to bad back atm but normally I work full time and barely have the time to do housework let alone
spend all day researching whether the latest tech out there is working well or not so thought I'd ask.
Numbers, graphs and charts are great and very helpful when choosing parts for a build but come harvest time they don't mean squat. Simple fact is blurpels don't put on weight like cobs and PCBS do.
 

Rahz

Well-Known Member
So it definetely needs to be cob these days? What makes cobs so good? I mean I believe it, I would like to understand why they can produce a better radiant efficiency though. No need to even dim them or are you saying watt for watt cob will always beat any other light?
The various brands of cobs or phosphor coated diodes mentioned here, Bridgelux, Citizen, Samsung ect. put in the research to produce successive generations of product advancements, so in that sense if you use the recommended cobs or boards you're getting the latest and greatest diodes and phosphor layers. Also, just like all LEDs the efficiency goes up as the current goes down. Running Vero29C at nominal current and they're about 45% efficient at 117 watts which is pretty good but as the current is lowered the efficiency goes up. This is an efficiency -vs- current (in milliamps) chart for the Vero29C 3000K 80CRI spectrum based on the Bridgelux simulator.

efficiencyled.jpg
 

Krytend

Well-Known Member
The various brands of cobs or phosphor coated diodes mentioned here, Bridgelux, Citizen, Samsung ect. put in the research to produce successive generations of product advancements, so in that sense if you use the recommended cobs or boards you're getting the latest and greatest diodes and phosphor layers. Also, just like all LEDs the efficiency goes up as the current goes down. Running Vero29C at nominal current and they're about 45% efficient at 117 watts which is pretty good but as the current is lowered the efficiency goes up. This is an efficiency -vs- current (in milliamps) chart for the Vero29C 3000K 80CRI spectrum based on the Bridgelux simulator.

View attachment 4068254
Efficiency is the ratio of Photons to heat correct?[
 

blackmelo

Well-Known Member
I feel like I have learnt something :)

So I have decided to get 1 x 200w budtech

The consensus is that a cob is going to be 150-200% as efficient as hps

Blurple panels are 75% as efficient as hps

However plurple panels will always have a place here for vegg.... so I am also going to get a bloomspect after all and compare it. Even if it is just 90% as efficient as my hps and not 150% it should be worth the money as it is 3 times cheaper than the budtech.
 

Rahz

Well-Known Member
I feel like I have learnt something :)

So I have decided to get 1 x 200w budtech

The consensus is that a cob is going to be 150-200% as efficient as hps

Blurple panels are 75% as efficient as hps

However plurple panels will always have a place here for vegg.... so I am also going to get a bloomspect after all and compare it. Even if it is just 90% as efficient as my hps and not 150% it should be worth the money as it is 3 times cheaper than the budtech.
Nice. I suspect that budtech will last you many years.
 

Rahz

Well-Known Member
What does efficacy measure? Sorry for the noob question.
You mean efficiency or efficacy?

Luminous efficacy is a term used to describe how well a light source makes visible light. It's directly related to LPW but not great for growing plants because efficacy is highest for green wavelengths, very low for red and blue. That's why blurple will always have very low efficacy even though it can be very efficient with the right diodes and drive current.

Efficiency describes the relationship between energy in and radiation out. Light sources for growing plants typically focus on PAR efficiency since not all radiation produces a photosynthetic response. White LEDs produce very little light outside the PAR range so electrical efficiency and PAR efficiency will generally be very close to the same.
 

blackmelo

Well-Known Member
Hello people, I ordered both lamps. The bloomspect already arrived on saturday and I have been trying it out for 3 days already.

So I ordered the Bloomspect 600w led light and I have decided to return the unit!

I recently saw someone checking the light intensity on their phone with a free app so I did the same :) The light distribution on the bloomspect is terrible. Way too intense in the middle with no light reaching the sides. I mean the light is powerful. So powerful my leaves started bleaching at 30" away and like said the light die off in the corners is terrible at that height already so no good.

One more real stupid thing about this light which I had not considered at all is that although it has got a vegg and bloom switch, these were simply added for aestetic purposes and serve no useful function, more detrimental if anything. The vegg switch turns on all blue lights, the bloom switch turns on all red lights... Using just one spectrum as we know is no good so either switches completely useless.

Otherwise the light looks nice and I really liked the fact that the light (although not completely white) made it very nice to look at the plants - first signs of stress noticeable instantly lol.

Live and learn, you guys did all pretty much warn me, hope the refund goes ok ;)
 

Rahz

Well-Known Member
I understand efficiency I just can't wrap my head around efficacy. Thanls for the info.
Green is the most efficacious part of the spectrum because our eyes are less sensitive to blue and red. The more green light a source has the brighter it will appear to be. That's how the lumen rating works too, green is weighted more than blue and red.
 
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