Led Users Unite!

[GBAUTO]

Hey everybody, I have an older build that kicked the bucket on me. I'm very novice at the troubleshooting portion unfortunately.

I have a question... How can I use the DMM to check the driver? I have checked all the wiring, the fans, the chips themselves (I think, again the DMM trips me up with all the settings) and it seems they are all good.

Which leads me to believe the driver has gone bad. One of them kicked the bucket on me before as well.

You will need to measure AC voltage and DC voltage. Sometimes the symbol used for AC is this ~ so there are usually two voltage selections on a DMM- AC and DC. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwi6sq-a8sbYAhWK0VMKHe8qC_IQFggxMAI&url=https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/how-to-use-a-multimeter&usg=AOvVaw3LxlEG4KziwCq_OhEyfWA2
Check the input wiring for correct AC voltage when you have the lamp powered up. If that is present, ck the output side for DC voltage- what driver are you using? Some info on the system you're using will help.

 

[Al Yamoni]

You will need to measure AC voltage and DC voltage. Sometimes the symbol used for AC is this ~ so there are usually two voltage selections on a DMM- AC and DC. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwi6sq-a8sbYAhWK0VMKHe8qC_IQFggxMAI&url=https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/how-to-use-a-multimeter&usg=AOvVaw3LxlEG4KziwCq_OhEyfWA2
Check the input wiring for correct AC voltage when you have the lamp powered up. If that is present, ck the output side for DC voltage- what driver are you using? Some info on the system you're using will help.

Meanwell hlg 185 c1050b with five cxa3070 3000k chips, ideal holders, open frame, active cooling, solid core wiring.

I hope that's enough info. I'll check out that link thank you

 

[Dave455]

Found this one on facebook, looks like A LOT of work!!!

View attachment 4067503

looks like electrocution imminent !

 

[Al Yamoni]

Man, I'm such a doofus.

Trying to wrap my head around this troubleshooting step...

So, if the output of the driver says +190v then I set the DMM to the 200V- setting and put the multimeter inline on the DC(output) side of the driver?

Is this correct? Then what should I see reading the DMM?

Thanks for anyone that has the time to help me out.

 

[Al Yamoni]

pretty sure I did it right..... Dead driver

I was able to get readings in continuity mode on each LED separately, so this should tell me that I indeed have a dead driver..... I think.

 

[hybridway2]

Some of them different lighting in the garden. Back left is the HLG ELITE. These
4 bars are half the Amare SolarBar8. On the Right between the hoods is a SunCloak Horizon. Then there's the Amare Pro-4's, a Hortri DaylightBlue & a SuperRed.

 

[Dave455]

Some of them different lighting in the garden. Back left is the HLG ELITE. These
4 bars are half the Amare SolarBar8. On the Right between the hoods is a SunCloak Horizon. Then there's the Amare Pro-4's, a Hortri DaylightBlue & a SuperRed. View attachment 4070794

If you replaced all your lights today.....which one would replace all of them ?

 

[ANC]

The driver needs to see a load I think.
Here is how to safely test new projects.
Connect everything up except the mains plug. Take an ordinary desk lamp with an incandescent bulb and remove its plug.
connect one pole of your light as well as Earth to the mains plug, the other wire needs to be connected so it runs through the bulb and then to the remaining pole on the plug.
Now when you power things up the bulb will act as a current limiter. If the bulb lights up weakly, the circuit has no short circuits or weird current draw and you can remove the lamp from the equation.
If the bulb comes on brightly it should protect items downstream and indicate error status.

 

[ANC]

I noticed the Samsung calculator was down yesterday.
I see it is back and the dropdown list feels longer?
Anybody expecting anything new?

 

[hybridway2]

If you replaced all your lights today.....which one would replace all of them ?

Well, haven't finished a grow w/ the Elite or Bar8 yet & it would depend on which grow style I chose to stick w/.
If I didn't have a plant count & wanted to maximize yeilds & GPW, I'd have to say the SunCloak.
Based on #'s available to me & my height restrictions I would project the Bar8 would be my choice for my current style.
If I had more hieght I'd use the lenses on the Amare's & Crank up the Elite cuz I really like what I've seen utilizing lenses.
So, guess i can't really answer your question cuz I like them all & if not for hieght restrictions each one has a solid place in my garden.

 

[Go go n chill]

LMAO Maybe I Should Break Out My Disco Balls

I'm die'n over here.

 

[GBAUTO]

View attachment 4070676
pretty sure I did it right..... Dead driver

I was able to get readings in continuity mode on each LED separately, so this should tell me that I indeed have a dead driver..... I think.

I would probe the output circuit with all components connected. I would also make sure that dimming pot is working(simple test would be to disconnect one wire)- this had me chasing my tail for awhile.

 

[cyoho84s]

Anybody have any luck with VIPARSPECTRA LED's

 

[Go go n chill]

Anybody have any luck with VIPARSPECTRA LED's

I have a 600 model the reflector Series, I went to that from a home built CFL fixture and that was a huge difference but since then I have built a light fixture from CXM 22's and it's even better more fission less watts and my plants are absolutely loving them

 

[Go go n chill]

Anybody have any luck with VIPARSPECTRA LED's

You would probably be better off buying a couple light engines from Cobb kits

 

[Go go n chill]

The driver needs to see a load I think.
Here is how to safely test new projects.
Connect everything up except the mains plug. Take an ordinary desk lamp with an incandescent bulb and remove its plug.
connect one pole of your light as well as Earth to the mains plug, the other wire needs to be connected so it runs through the bulb and then to the remaining pole on the plug.
Now when you power things up the bulb will act as a current limiter. If the bulb lights up weakly, the circuit has no short circuits or weird current draw and you can remove the lamp from the equation.
If the bulb comes on brightly it should protect items downstream and indicate error status.

The meter provides the load

 

[mista sativa]

I’m looking to supplement my two cheap Chinese made 185w led’s with something else more powerful. I’m in a 5x6 closet. I’m good for veg. I have another month or so before I start to flower. I just want to maximize my yields. These are my current lights... I’m trying to find something under $3-400

 

[Go go n chill]

I’m looking to supplement my two cheap Chinese made 185w led’s with something else more powerful. I’m in a 5x6 closet. I’m good for veg. I have another month or so before I start to flower. I just want to maximize my yields. These are my current lights... I’m trying to find something under $3-400

If you have any DIY ability @CobKits is who you need to talk to. For 3-400$ you can build a Kick ass light

 

[CobKits]

thanks for the rep gogo!

 

[Go go n chill]

I’m looking to supplement my two cheap Chinese made 185w led’s with something else more powerful. I’m in a 5x6 closet. I’m good for veg. I have another month or so before I start to flower. I just want to maximize my yields. These are my current lights... I’m trying to find something under $3-400

Something like this would supplement nicely. $247 I think is what I paid plus the aluminum angle. Cxm 22 3500k running at 1400 ma