Samsung F-Strips and heat sinks

AngryMexican

Active Member
I use al U channel to mount them with double side heat tape, but the aluminium gets really hot, so hot that I cannot even touch the frame for more than 1 second. How hot they can get without burning? I have got Mean Well HLG-320H-48B Driver with 6.7A and six strips 1.12A each running in parallel. Should I worry about them screw up?
 

Ginger Viking

Well-Known Member
If you are worried about it throw a few more strips on the rig to lower the current going to each strip. That should cool it down some and give you a better spread also.
 

AngryMexican

Active Member
Thats a good idea, specially when i have few extra. Does the driver support them if total amps go over the 6.7A?
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
I use al U channel to mount them with double side heat tape, but the aluminium gets really hot, so hot that I cannot even touch the frame for more than 1 second. How hot they can get without burning? I have got Mean Well HLG-320H-48B Driver with 6.7A and six strips 1.12A each running in parallel. Should I worry about them screw up?
I use a similar PSU, and have heatsinking. The heatsinks get to about 60ish when it is bloody hot, about 108F outside I am probably running them at half power.
I basically adjusted until adding extra current added minimal extra light vs the first half of the trimpot.
 

Ginger Viking

Well-Known Member
Thats a good idea, specially when i have few extra. Does the driver support them if total amps go over the 6.7A?
Since you have a CV driver the current will be divided between the strips. 6.7/7=.957A or 6.8/8=.838A. You can't go over 6.7A because that is all that the driver will produce. You will have 6.7A regardless of the # strips.
 

GrowLightResearch

Well-Known Member
but the aluminium gets really hot, so hot that I cannot even touch the frame for more than 1 second
That's not too hot. The Gen3 F-series can handle up to 65°C. You would not be able to touch 65° for a second. The temp you felt was probably around 55-60°C. I do not like to drive these strips much over 40°C. At 40° I can hold my finger on the strip for a long time. Metallic surfaces will burn faster than plastic. So there is a difference if you touch the aluminum rather than the PCB.

You should check each strip to see if one is warmer than the others. When wired in parallel the current is not going to be divided equal in each strip.

Untitled.jpg
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
I forgot to add, this is with 3 strips.
I might add another when my hand feels better and I am not likely to injure myself cause I just managed to touch my healing fingertips against something.

In electronics, we use what is called the thumb thermometer... Stick your thumb against the hot component, if you can last 5 seconds, it is probably OK.
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
I use al U channel to mount them with double side heat tape, but the aluminium gets really hot, so hot that I cannot even touch the frame for more than 1 second. How hot they can get without burning? I have got Mean Well HLG-320H-48B Driver with 6.7A and six strips 1.12A each running in parallel. Should I worry about them screw up?

Which typ of F-strips did you use? Single row/4ft or double row 2 or 4ft strips? Thats ~55w per strip, datasheet says 65°c@1120mA. 4ft. double row strips should not get that hot especially when mounted on a heatsink they should be warm to touch, not hot!
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
That's not too hot. The Gen3 F-series can handle up to 65°C. You would not be able to touch 65° for a second. The temp you felt was probably around 55-60°C. I do not like to drive these strips much over 40°C. At 40° I can hold my finger on the strip for a long time. Metallic surfaces will burn faster than plastic. So there is a difference if you touch the aluminum rather than the PCB.

You should check each strip to see if one is warmer than the others. When wired in parallel the current is not going to be divided equal in each strip.

View attachment 4082249
I forgot to add, this is with 3 strips.
I might add another when my hand feels better and I am not likely to injure myself cause I just managed to touch my healing fingertips against something.

In electronics, we use what is called the thumb thermometer... Stick your thumb against the hot component, if you can last 5 seconds, it is probably OK.

Or do it like Arnie...
 

AngryMexican

Active Member
Tnx guys for quick replies should I go and check them (1 hour drive by cab)? Or do they survive for 10 hours more?
Which typ of F-strips did you use? Single row/4ft or double row 2 or 4ft strips? Thats ~55w per strip, datasheet says 65°c@1120mA. 4ft. double row strips should not get that hot especially when mounted on a heatsink they should be warm to touch, not hot!
Double rows
SI-B8V521560WW

Cannot post link but It says on page 7
Rated maximum temperature,
highest permissible temperature to avoid safety risk is 95 C

.
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
I'm just glad the strips makes it through our heatwaves and cold mornings. My grow isn't big enough this round to run the air conditioner(not enough water), so it is up to the extractor to keep things civil in the room.
 

AngryMexican

Active Member
If the lamps are dead by now, is it possible that some plants turn out hermies after 12 hours dark time? I kept them under 24 all the time...
 

GrowLightResearch

Well-Known Member
I dunno what to go and check them
They'll be fine. You are below 65°.

95° C is just a notice to cover their ass in case someone litigious gets burned.

For a surface which is touched continuously, such as a notebook computer surface,
the UL, ANSI, CSA, and IEC safety standards for IT equipment specify a maximum
temperature for the plastic adapter enclosure of 122° F (50° C).

For an external surface which may be touched, but not touched continuously, the UL,
ANSI, CSA, and IEC safety standards specify a maximum temperature for touchable
plastic parts of 200°F (95°C)
-IEEE PSES Product Safety Engineering
 

AngryMexican

Active Member
They'll be fine. You are below 65°.

95° C is just a notice to cover their ass in case someone litigious gets burned.

For a surface which is touched continuously, such as a notebook computer surface,
the UL, ANSI, CSA, and IEC safety standards for IT equipment specify a maximum
temperature for the plastic adapter enclosure of 122° F (50° C).

For an external surface which may be touched, but not touched continuously, the UL,
ANSI, CSA, and IEC safety standards specify a maximum temperature for touchable
plastic parts of 200°F (95°C)
-IEEE PSES Product Safety Engineering
Tnx man, I'll go check them at the morning and measure the temp
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Tnx guys for quick replies should I go and check them (1 hour drive by cab)? Or do they survive for 10 hours more?


Double rows
SI-B8V521560WW

Cannot post link but It says on page 7
Rated maximum temperature,
highest permissible temperature to avoid safety risk is 95 C

.

That's the 2ft. strips. At 1120mA with heatsink temps should be around 55°C..
95°C is max. allowed.
 

AngryMexican

Active Member
Everything seems to be ok, no broken diodes or anything added 1 stip to every set. Al frame was very hot... Girls seems to love those things! Dunno how to measure the temp of the frame right way.
 
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Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Everything seems to be ok, no broken diodes or anything added 1 stip to every set. Al frame was very hot... Girls seems to love those things! Dunno how to measure the temp of the frame right way.
Get a cheap digital laser thermometer gun from ebay. Something like this:
(You need to add a small piece of black tape to a metal surface to get more precise results)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/GM320-Non-Contact-LCD-IR-Laser-Infrared-Digital-Temperature-Thermometer-Gun-HOT/401095545669?epid=1083986830&hash=item5d63285345:g:7fgAAOSwg8tZ6dY4


If you like it to be more precise, solder a k-type thermo couple to one of the measuring points. Something like this is cheap but pretty precise:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/TM-902C-Digital-LCD-K-Type-Thermometer-Single-Input-Thermocouple-Probe/360849831685?rt=nc&_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIM.MBE&ao=2&asc=44040&meid=9bc7e980ec7c4c4aa73249ef36a493b2&pid=100005&rk=4&rkt=6&sd=310382864123&itm=360849831685&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

I stick the k-type probe always with a strip Kapton tape to the measuring point in the middle, which is sufficiently stable and can be removed cleanly.
Only if you prefer a continuous measurement, I would recommend soldering.
 
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