welight

Well-Known Member
My mistake - 48V. Not sure where I got 54V from.

Last time I spoke to you guys I was quoted over $70 to ship 10-12 Nichia strips to the other side of the country, so with that and the GST, things started to get a bit pricey. In the end, you didn't have what I needed anyway as the stock on your website didn't match inventory.

For the record, your checkout is now showing postage to be a lot less, so I'm not sure what changed - I just assumed it would be what I was quoted last time, so apologies if that's not the case. I'm not here to mislead anyone
no problem, happy to help out anytime
Cheers
Mark
 

wietefras

Well-Known Member
amazing the effect that a very slight spd difference has on lumens vs PAR figures
What I find more surprising is how the V1 SPD is so different from the V1 SPD that was posted before (much less blue and green this time). This difference is much bigger than that between the V1 and V2 in this chart.

So apparently two measurements, of what should essentially be the same SPD, can already vary by quite a lot.
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Yeah, the crazy thing is, even though we're both in Australia, they're shipping costs are about the same as HLG. And of course Digikey and Arrow etc have free shipping with the Samsung strips.

Apart from that, I did look at the Solskins and the QB324 boards appear to eat them for the same price (or less). That's why I kept asking questions about the QB324s, because if they're really 6.6v chips - and no reason to doubt it - they represent very good value.

Cost aside, the only advantage I can see with the Solskins is they run 54v - meaning you can opt for a CV or CC driver - and they offer a 2K Kelvin option.

If you wanted to light up a couple of 3x3s, what would you do? I'm leaning towards a LED board this time instead of a strip build because the guy I'm building it for wants to grow one 1+lb plant per 3'x3' and the boards will likely offer better penetration and a bit more light in the middle, where the plant is. If I can get the guy to scrog properly, then the strips might still make sense.
I like the idea to have one or two boards in the center and 4 surrounding double row strips around the board/s. I believe I've seen this config also in welight's Solskin thread. For a square area this would give good spread and even brightness and you would see the desired brighter hotspot in the center, if you go closer to the plants. Above 16 or 20" there should be almost no hotspot anymore.

301B is 200ma
16 strings makes it max 3200mA
we recommend not to exceed 2800ma
3.6A is bad idea.


If you want your board to run for no more than few mins/hours and die then do as you wish.
If you would like it to last for a grow cycle, run within max limits for reliable operation.

Eeek! 16 parallel strings on QB288 and 18 on the 324. Sorry, my bad! Of course 3,2A max.!

Mentioned LEDgardeners test just to demonstrate that a slight increase to 200w with additional cooling would not have a major impact on durability on both boards.
 

mjduke420

Well-Known Member
Nice! Did you trim the stems? It looks kond of empty. But looks very nice.
Defoliated the bottom 8" or so and they're 4 feet tall. They're clones that were topped multiple times and they grew a bit wonky and tall. They have about 8 more weeks to fill in, this pheno goes for 12 weeks.
 

Prawn Connery

Well-Known Member
Ye, after 200Watts , i recommend thermal paste. it will work fine even at 350 watts per board. just need better active cooling and thermal paste
OK, I've ordered 4x 324 boards and two Slate 2s.

I want to run two boards side-by-side in series with a HLG-480H-C2100 driver. By my calculation, this will run each board at up to 250w - though I will dial that back to about 200w (1.8a per board).

Drivers will be remotely mounted (not onboad).

Will thermal paste be enough to cool each board passively with the Slate 2s with an ambient temperature of around 30C?
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
OK, I've ordered 4x 324 boards and two Slate 2s.

I want to run two boards side-by-side in series with a HLG-480H-C2100 driver. By my calculation, this will run each board at up to 250w - though I will dial that back to about 200w (1.8a per board).

Drivers will be remotely mounted (not onboad).

Will thermal paste be enough to cool each board passively with the Slate 2s with an ambient temperature of around 30C?
Thermal grease helps for better heat transfer but that's only 1-2° at the end. I would test it a few hours to see how long it takes until it reach thermal equilibrium and how hot they get at 200-250w.
With an ossilating fan and a slightly breeze it could be already enough. Maybe hang the fan a little higher so that lamps and plants gets some air-movement. You could also hang one below the ceiling and let it blow down.
Samsung datasheet says 90°C max., I would say anything below 80°C case temperature should be okay.
 

Stephenj37826

Well-Known Member
Thermal grease helps for better heat transfer but that's only 1-2° at the end. I would test it a few hours to see how long it takes until it reach thermal equilibrium and how hot they get at 200-250w.
With an ossilating fan and a slightly breeze it could be already enough. Maybe hang the fan a little higher so that lamps and plants gets some air-movement. You could also hang one below the ceiling and let it blow down.
Samsung datasheet says 90°C max., I would say anything below 80°C case temperature should be okay.
The 324 is Nichia.... This one
I dont consider Solskin single channel 288 anything other than an original product. I have been very clear stating 3030 leds are where efficacy developments are going, which is why we moved to a 3030 footprint, I am happy to see your onto it

Yeah we have been using Nichia 757 for about a year now..... Check @NapalmD s thread 90cri grow from a while ago. Also @captainmorgan has been running them for a while as well.
 
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