Yes or NO

Capt. Chronic

Active Member
Hey looking to make sure this will work,

please quickly look over the basics of this set up...

Im looking to flower no more than 6 plants at a time hoping for about 2-3 oz per plant.

Veg., 3x3x5.5 box, air tight with adjustable 250 watt lamp air cooled lamp, mylar on all sides, hempy buckets, separate exhaust with CO2 coming in.

Flower, 3x4x6 box, air tight, adjustable 400 watt air cooled lamp with four 2foot T5 bulbs surrounding the plants, mylar on all sides, hempy buckets, separate exhaust with CO2 coming in.

FYI...I will always have the lights as close as I can without burning the plants.

What do you think? Will I be able to reach my goals and have some really good chron??:blsmoke:

THanks
 

ben350n

Active Member
i was thinking of something similar the dimensions i came up w/ were 4'x2.5'x5' w/ air cooled reflector, high cfm 120mm (130 or so cfms) fan for exhaust and passive intake on bottom left side, and 400w ceramic metal halide bare bulb hanging 6" above canopy and a 600w super HPS. with that you don't have to change bulbs at all-same for veg and flower, high lumens from HPS x full light spectrum from CMH (can be run from 400w HPS ballast). super easy to maintain. edit: you could fit 6 plants per cab e-z

i'm certainly no expert by far, still learning, just an idea for a cabinet i put together. hope it helps! :D

-ben350n
 

hobo80

Well-Known Member
As far as the co2 goes, you don't really need it unless you have higher temps. For the bloom box, you should have atleast a 600watt hps. With the 400watt you have now, I would say that 1.5oz would be very good. As far as "chron" is concerned, yes, it should be some killer as long as you stay on top of it and flush properly. Good luck!
 

BongJuice

Well-Known Member
You should get good quality with your setup.
But to get a good quantity, is really based on experience.
 

stoverdro

Well-Known Member
Well man i would number one upgrade to a 600 watt hps. and jsut forget about the side lighting. you can fit 9 plants in there if you cram it but 6 will do.as long as you do 2 rows of 3.the 2 going the length of the 3 feet and the 2 going the length of the 4 feet just so oyu have adequate space for growth. the 400 will do with the ligths on the side if you already have the shit but i would jsut reccomend a 600. i would also get a ballast like you said that is interchangable between the mh and the hps so oyu do not need to switch anything but the bulb.
i would then take the t5's and put them in the veg room with the 250 or if oyu have the 400 and go to the 600 then put the 400 in there.
co2. c02 only really works the best if you have everything else to a tee. if everything else is not perfect it will not benifit oyu as you see desired. there is only so much a plant can take in based on the lighting and the nutrients it recieves. you need to make sure you have everything maxed out before c02 and with a 400 oyu will not see that as definite as with a 600
sounds like you got your shit down man but i would go slow and start with a 600 and then add the side lights and c02 after a grow. jsut my 2 cents
 

BigBudBalls

Well-Known Member
As far as the co2 goes, you don't really need it unless you have higher temps. For the bloom box, you should have atleast a 600watt hps. With the 400watt you have now, I would say that 1.5oz would be very good. As far as "chron" is concerned, yes, it should be some killer as long as you stay on top of it and flush properly. Good luck!
Uh, no. Higher temps with CO2 is a band aide fix for high temps. All plants *need* CO2 for photosynthesis. Higher temps will open the stomatas up a bit more, but even at the ideal temp of 78, its still quite useful. The more CO2 (up to ~1800ppm) the better.

Using CO2 to cover up high temps is not the best use of CO2.
Using uncontrolled CO2 is guesswork. Just eyeball the pH and nutes too.
 

stoverdro

Well-Known Member
That is true c02 helps deal with high temps meaning oyu dont need em. but as i said c02 can only used fully when all other factors fo your grow are up to par and then you should add the c02. i think you would agree bigbud.
what did you decide on?
 

hobo80

Well-Known Member
Uh, no. Higher temps with CO2 is a band aide fix for high temps. All plants *need* CO2 for photosynthesis. Higher temps will open the stomatas up a bit more, but even at the ideal temp of 78, its still quite useful. The more CO2 (up to ~1800ppm) the better.

Using CO2 to cover up high temps is not the best use of CO2.
Using uncontrolled CO2 is guesswork. Just eyeball the pH and nutes too.
I never said CO2 should be used as a quick fix for high temps. And ideal ppm would be 1000-1500. :finger: If you have proper intake/exhaust, you have all the cO2 you need. I was basically saying, that in his case, it won't help much. If he's asking, it most likely means that he doesn't have the experience to use the CO2. A CO2 enriched plant uses all the other critical elements a lot faster, so you have to be on the ball. If you limit the the water, nutrients, and/or light the co2 will just be a waste. :wall:
 

BigBudBalls

Well-Known Member
I never said CO2 should be used as a quick fix for high temps. And ideal ppm would be 1000-1500. :finger: If you have proper intake/exhaust, you have all the cO2 you need. I was basically saying, that in his case, it won't help much. If he's asking, it most likely means that he doesn't have the experience to use the CO2. A CO2 enriched plant uses all the other critical elements a lot faster, so you have to be on the ball. If you limit the the water, nutrients, and/or light the co2 will just be a waste. :wall:
You eluded that he needed higher temps to use CO2:

As far as the co2 goes, you don't really need it unless you have higher temps.
I agree and have said countless times that CO2 is the *last* thing to add to an op. Its expensive to do properly and all else needs to be spot on (including grower's abilities) before CO2 should be introduced.

But that said, even adding it before that, it will still help. Just won't utilized economically.

I'm all set up for CO2 (tank, ppm meter, controler, valves, etc) and not currently using it.
 

stoverdro

Well-Known Member
Im with you BBB.but your really htink that 1800 is good.im asking cause i really dont know but i read that ypu should factor in the 300 in the air already and aim for around 1500 ppm total to an upwards of 1800 as a max.but that would let it set for 1500ppm for a total of 1800. and also throwing out that i do know it shouldnt be on all day.i do know that.lol.what length of time periods are good you think ive heard from 15 minutes 3-4x's daily to 30 minutes 3-4x's daily
 

hobo80

Well-Known Member
You eluded that he needed higher temps to use CO2:



I agree and have said countless times that CO2 is the *last* thing to add to an op. Its expensive to do properly and all else needs to be spot on (including grower's abilities) before CO2 should be introduced.

But that said, even adding it before that, it will still help. Just won't utilized economically.

I'm all set up for CO2 (tank, ppm meter, controler, valves, etc) and not currently using it.
I didn't elude it, I just didn't see the point in saying it again. I didn't mean that he ONLY needed it if the temps were high, but that is what I said. So let me restate that- Co2 wouldn't be in favor, if you're temps get high, switch it on, and even if it is band aid fix at the moment, what do you really expect for a one or two light grow? I just know from my past experiences when I've had grows that small, that I wouldn't have anything except for a light, and an oscillating fan (and nutrients of course) and they did perfectly fine... no exhaust or intake, not even during bloom. Unless you're trying to dedicate some time and money into it, ditch the C02 and invest the money into something else, or save it for those extra expenses that sneak up on you...
 
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