QB96 Elite V2 w/ SSTX heatsink question
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lukio
Well-Known Member
you could buy a lux meter and divide by 67. So 55.000 lux is about 820ppfd. costs 10 bucks and works well enough imo
rkymtnman
Well-Known Member
perfect. i did a quick search of inexpensive but accurate lux meters and found one for 13 bucks on ebay. a chinese LX 1010B.
thanks for the conversion factor. i'll have to write that down
lukio
Well-Known Member
no wozzas.
thats for 3k, it varies a lil bit. heres the thread where the guys wayyyy smarter than me talk about it
https://www.rollitup.org/t/lux-to-par-to-ppfd-conversion-charts.883209/
Apogee mq500 is the best for the money. apps and lux meters won't be exact I prefer to spend a little extra for peace of mind
Or_Gro
Well-Known Member
Just go back to the spectrum post, and divide lumens by ppfd for all three, you’ll be almost spot on 67...mentioned it in 8:23pm post yesterday..
Have you tested that side by side with a par meter? I've always heard people say it's about the same but never tried it myself
Or_Gro
Well-Known Member
Whennit comes to lux meters, inexpensive does not equal accurate, and accurate means less than consistent...
Or_Gro
Well-Known Member
Look at the post, meter can do 3diff types of readings at once in addition to spectrum...for thos pics i have set for lumens, ppfd, and light temp(degrees kelvin)....
Or_Gro
Well-Known Member
Apogee and Sekonic are very close if not spot on.
rkymtnman
Well-Known Member
i found a site that tested a bunch of them. was a photography site. the one they recommended wasn't far off from the really expensive ones. or at least close enough for my liking. i don't have a smartphone so this was the best and cheapest option IMO.
Sorry I meant the $10 lux meter with conversion vs a good par meter I've seen alot of people say it's about the same reading but none of those people have par meters
Or_Gro
Well-Known Member
That’ll work then...just wanted you not to get screwed... i bot 3diff ones to compare against apogee, cuz lots of people cant afford apogee, none of the lux meters showed similar values (accuracy), and didn’t repeat same readings (consistency)...
Lux meters don’t cover the whole par spectrum, but if consistent you can use conversion factor and be close enuff for gubment work..,
Or_Gro
Well-Known Member
Google lux meter vs ppfd meter for details...
rkymtnman
Well-Known Member
like horseshoes and hand grenade. close is good enough for me. i think it had an error factor of 4% which wasnt' too bad I thought.
Do you remember how far off? In the led world people go crazy over a 5-10% bump in effeciency so not far off would be a 1-2% difference
rkymtnman
Well-Known Member
had to go back thru my history:
tested against hanwell ULM :
under LED: hanwell read 6080, chinese read 6020
under spiral CFL: hanwell read 355, chinese read 377
against all the light sources, the chinese was off by 0% to max 10% with most being 6%.
Or_Gro
Well-Known Member
Not familiar with hanwell...but a consistent lux meter (different than comparing readings between meters, what counts is that you get a similar reading of same light-power-distance each time) is better than nothing...grenade approach works for consistent meter, then you calibrate whatever your lumen reading is to known ppfd...
I prefer ppfd....yes $300, but over a growing lifetime (w proper care 1 will last longer than you) it’s nothin...any craftsman can tell you it’s not the cost of the tool, it’s the value you get from it...
But everyone’s gotta do it their own way...
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rkymtnman
Well-Known Member
i'm with ya. if i'm gonna use something alot, i go for quality all the time. if it's a one-off tool, i'm headed to harbor freight! lol.
but thanks for all the advice. i was kinda curious what my DIY cob setup with some t5 supplements was putting out and this will get me in the ballpark.
Or_Gro
Well-Known Member
Ok, i’m planning to do spreadsheets with the data, but that will take some time.
Thinking some people would put up with my chicken scratch for info, so here goes.
Data for single 96, on an individual hlg-240h-54A.
Two sets of data: one at 12” ht, other 18”. Each set shows ppfd divided by 1000, for simplicity (this means 1.0 in table = 1000ppfd, 0.5 in table =500 ppfd, etc.). Each set of data has 5 tables for 5 diff wattage levels at that height.
The tables show readings at center of each 6” square, on a 4x4 grid. The reading directly under center of light is the one to right of each table.
Max wattage at 12” and 18” was taken on diff drivers, one cranked higher than other.
Still working on 24”, 36” heights....
Lots of work here, so keep your negative comments to yourself, i am well aware of how shitty the presentation is....
A single light doesn't get you much, by itself...but you start to understand how they work..stay tuned cuz when you hang it with another/others the real benefit of these lights becomes clear...
Thinking some people would put up with my chicken scratch for info, so here goes.
Data for single 96, on an individual hlg-240h-54A.
Two sets of data: one at 12” ht, other 18”. Each set shows ppfd divided by 1000, for simplicity (this means 1.0 in table = 1000ppfd, 0.5 in table =500 ppfd, etc.). Each set of data has 5 tables for 5 diff wattage levels at that height.
The tables show readings at center of each 6” square, on a 4x4 grid. The reading directly under center of light is the one to right of each table.
Max wattage at 12” and 18” was taken on diff drivers, one cranked higher than other.
Still working on 24”, 36” heights....
Lots of work here, so keep your negative comments to yourself, i am well aware of how shitty the presentation is....
A single light doesn't get you much, by itself...but you start to understand how they work..stay tuned cuz when you hang it with another/others the real benefit of these lights becomes clear...
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