QB96 Elite V2 w/ SSTX heatsink question

trojanvirus

Well-Known Member
You said, "don't buy the A drivers" and "there is a safety risk you don't know" and I wanted only to tell you, there is no risk, bro!
Hi Randomblame, thanks for the response. That statement should have included 'if you add another dimmer'. My mistake; of course they are safe, I use them, but they are not as versatile as the B-type from what I read.

If you use all three prongs of an 100k poti and use the third one for ground you will see serious dimming issues.
Oh this I didn't know! I'm actually using a 50K pot to power both drivers in a set. I will lose the ground asap.

Rapidled has a small 6,50$ 0/1-10v dimmer using only the 100μA from the driver.
The pots I have seem good; $10 for a bag of 5 including the knobs. They are rated 50K; I tested them quickly and seemed very close (like 49K ohm or something).

Forget that MW recommendation, bro! There is no need for a wall dimmer! Simply remote wire the rapidled dimmer to your needs.
no Sh*t! lol $75 for that stupid wall dimmer. No need at all for the dimmer. The pots are already installed, Org posted them for me on the previous page (see the gif).

Got the other light today... going to go cut off the ground and compare.

Again, thanks for the reply; I don't want to pretend that I'm electrical anything other than learning.
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
It all good, bro! We are all learning every day...

BTW,
a 49k poti means you only get ~98% out of your drivers. But its easy to solve it.
With a 55k one you would get all the driver current and up to 108% out of each driver. You can either interchange the poti or add a cheap 10k resistor(5ct.) to increase the resistance. You can also add a simple on/off switch to the dimming circuit(50ct.). When you cut the dimming connection the driver switch automaticly to maximum output(108%).

Its a difference of 10% and worth it IMO. 10% more light would be a nice free boost and even if you use a 55k poti you'll find probably one with more than 54k in each 5 or 10pcs batch.
 

Silencio

Well-Known Member
Picked up four of these for my 2x4 tent. Super excited to get them running. Thinking about getting two more for better coverage since my tent is only 5 feet tall.

Should I go with:

4 qb96 on two HLG-240H-c2100b
Or
6 qb96 on two HLG-240H-c1400b

Im leaning toward the 1400 driver since it will let me run the 4 qbs I already have at ~75w (37w/sqft) and leave me the option of adding two more boards later. I recall reading that without a potentiometer that output will be higher than 1400ma as well so I should be able to get a bit more than 75w.

Any advice would be appreciated.
 

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
Picked up four of these for my 2x4 tent. Super excited to get them running. Thinking about getting two more for better coverage since my tent is only 5 feet tall.

Should I go with:

4 qb96 on two HLG-240H-c2100b
Or
6 qb96 on two HLG-240H-c1400b

Im leaning toward the 1400 driver since it will let me run the 4 qbs I already have at ~75w (37w/sqft) and leave me the option of adding two more boards later. I recall reading that without a potentiometer that output will be higher than 1400ma as well so I should be able to get a bit more than 75w.

Any advice would be appreciated.
Go with 4, it’s only twice as much as you need...
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Picked up four of these for my 2x4 tent. Super excited to get them running. Thinking about getting two more for better coverage since my tent is only 5 feet tall.

Should I go with:

4 qb96 on two HLG-240H-c2100b
Or
6 qb96 on two HLG-240H-c1400b

Im leaning toward the 1400 driver since it will let me run the 4 qbs I already have at ~75w (37w/sqft) and leave me the option of adding two more boards later. I recall reading that without a potentiometer that output will be higher than 1400ma as well so I should be able to get a bit more than 75w.

Any advice would be appreciated.
One QB96 covers a 2x 2' area pretty good so you could get away with just 2 boards. 4 is already top notch and 6 of them above a 2x 4' is definately overkill. You could also use HLG-240H-54B and run as much boards on thie driver as you want. It would work with only one board as well as with 10 boards or even more and you'll get out a little more juice compared to the CC driver. And don't worry, the boards would run in constant current mode just like with the CC driver.

It makes always sense to read the according thread completely or at least the last few pages, brother! All your questions are already answered many times.
 

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
96 elites work great for propagation: 2x3, single 96,124w, 350 ppfd, 24/0.

Day 23 from seed pop, all clone mothers have at least 6 true nodes and 4 pairs laterals, except more recently popped trainwrecks and bottom left original glue.

AF26BE01-7CA3-4139-87E0-656405B5F368.jpeg

3rd day acclimating to uva-b under single 24” 24w t-5 arcadia reptile light in reflector fixture, getting 50-60 uW/sq cm uvb at 12” for 15 min begin/15 min end of day.

Probably clone in 7-10 days for 288 vs 96 flowering smackdown.
 
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Silencio

Well-Known Member
Go with 4, it’s only twice as much as you need...
One QB96 covers a 2x 2' area pretty good so you could get away with just 2 boards. 4 is already top notch and 6 of them above a 2x 4' is definately overkill. You could also use HLG-240H-54B and run as much boards on thie driver as you want. It would work with only one board as well as with 10 boards or even more and you'll get out a little more juice compared to the CC driver. And don't worry, the boards would run in constant current mode just like with the CC driver.

It makes always sense to read the according thread completely or at least the last few pages, brother! All your questions are already answered many times.
Thanks for the reply. I did read the full thread but everyone seems to be raising the lights high and driving them hard. With a 5ft tent I was a little worried Id get bad coverage and/or light burn when the canopy is like 12" away. Thought multiple lights driven softer may help. Anyways, I went with two of the 2.1A drivers for redundancy. Ive got some plants waiting to flower once they arrive. Next to add some uv (and royal blue?) monos...

It still seems crazy to me two of these little 50 diode boards could cover a 2x4 considering the alternative was three qb288s or a 8 cob array.
 

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the reply. I did read the full thread but everyone seems to be raising the lights high and driving them hard. With a 5ft tent I was a little worried Id get bad coverage and/or light burn when the canopy is like 12" away. Thought multiple lights driven softer may help. Anyways, I went with two of the 2.1A drivers for redundancy. Ive got some plants waiting to flower once they arrive. Next to add some uv (and royal blue?) monos...

It still seems crazy to me two of these little 50 diode boards could cover a 2x4 considering the alternative was three qb288s or a 8 cob array.
If you run 4, please post w pics periodically.

Having read the whole thread, of course you already know that for flowering, two 96s at 12” is like photosynthesis heaven in a 2x4 at 120w/bd...

Since you’re flowering, i would get some far red before uv and blue (veg).
 
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Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Yeah, with 4 you get more even coverage and can use them with less current. It will help a bit but 1000μMol/s are 1000μMol/s and when you get bleaching it has most probably another reason.
Most of the time the VPD is too high(humidity below 60%) around the upper leaves and thats the reason you get magnesium deficits by too much calcium uptake. Thats not bleaching!
Get some calmag and use it every 2nd watering beginning with veg week 2. Its important and helps to avoid such issues.
I would use one or two cheap thermo/hygro meters with wired sensor (ebay, 2 bucks) and hang the sensors directly between the tops to get an idea of the true VPD around the tops. A sensor on the wall would show you much different results.
I would not use UV diodes, btw. UVA costs twice as much and UVB 10 times more and all of them are not durable enough.
Reptile bulbs like the Arcadia D3desert(12% UVB) or D3dragon(14% UVB) have also 30% UVA and you can get a 4ft. T5 bulb + ballast for around 50$. You can also use 2ft. bulbs. Each metal reflector would work and the sockets are normal T5 sockets you can find on e3ay/am4zon or walmart. Easy to assemble and they have often enough proven that they work pretty well. And with such bulbs you improve taste and potency.
There are also stronger UVB bulbs available. The Flowerpower T12 or the Agromax PureUV T5 for instance but you need to be careful because these bulbs can easily damage/harm the plants.
 

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
Yeah, with 4 you get more even coverage and can use them with less current. It will help a bit but 1000μMol/s are 1000μMol/s and when you get bleaching it has most probably another reason.
Most of the time the VPD is too high(humidity below 60%) around the upper leaves and thats the reason you get magnesium deficits by too much calcium uptake. Thats not bleaching!
Get some calmag and use it every 2nd watering beginning with veg week 2. Its important and helps to avoid such issues.
I would use one or two cheap thermo/hygro meters with wired sensor (ebay, 2 bucks) and hang the sensors directly between the tops to get an idea of the true VPD around the tops. A sensor on the wall would show you much different results.
I would not use UV diodes, btw. UVA costs twice as much and UVB 10 times more and all of them are not durable enough.
Reptile bulbs like the Arcadia D3desert(12% UVB) or D3dragon(14% UVB) have also 30% UVA and you can get a 4ft. T5 bulb + ballast for around 50$. You can also use 2ft. bulbs. Each metal reflector would work and the sockets are normal T5 sockets you can find on e3ay/am4zon or walmart. Easy to assemble and they have often enough proven that they work pretty well. And with such bulbs you improve taste and potency.
There are also stronger UVB bulbs available. The Flowerpower T12 or the Agromax PureUV T5 for instance but you need to be careful because these bulbs can easily damage/harm the plants.
Vpd issue currently in my prop tent, can u you see it?

35-45% rh, at 75-78F atm (not in my regular growspace for a month or so).
 

hybridway2

Amare Shill
Looks like these 96 elites/elite 360s work in flower, too...

Soil2coco’s white sharks:View attachment 4245000

View attachment 4245001

View attachment 4245002
Nice! Mine come in today. Why, u have the 360's? Thought u DIY yours.
You've flowered under these already ,no? 2g/w or something crazy like that. Or was that the 288's QB'S?
Was it really 4#'s baggable material?
I'm about to run 4 girls in a 4x4 with the 360's. 2 Tang Dream & 2 SnoBall. Doubt ill get mich more then 2 #'s though.
Put In a MH last night & checked the spectral chart quick for shot n giggles. Didnt realize how much 380-420nm was there. Practically peaking out at 400-420. I feel for any leds to be called CMH or MH replacements that they should include these nm's as they are the key ingredients to that tech.
That would add also be n indicator as to how uva is not as bad as some think in flower.
 
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Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
Nice! Mine come in today. Why, u have the 360's? Thought u DIY yours.
You've flowered under these already ,no? 2g/w or something crazy like that. Or was that the 288's QB'S?
Was it really 4#'s baggable material?
I'm about to run 4 girls in a 4x4 with the 360's. 2 Tang Dream & 2 SnoBall. Doubt ill get mich more then 2 #'s though.
Put In a MH last night & checked the spectral chart quick for shot n giggles. Didnt realize how much 380-420nm was there. Practically peaking out at 400-420. I feel for any leds to be called CMH or MH replacements that they should include these nm's as they are the key ingredients to that tech.
That would add also be n indicator as to how uva is not as bad as some think in flower.
96/360 are same bds, the grow is soil2coco’s, not mine.

The 2.2g/w was from eight 288s; 3.8lbs pure, dry bud. I expect similar for 96/360s, and am in process of setting up side-by-side: topped and defol’d mothers yesterday to direct growth to laterals.

51ECBAE5-5DB9-49EC-830F-118EFC34558B.jpeg
Day 25 from popping seeds:
D5D05BB2-CC19-4A1C-B08E-C086E277ED1C.jpegE3090D61-9BBE-463B-AD7E-344B28DB021C.jpeg
Single 96, 24” ht,24/0, 39DLI; single reflector 24w Arcadia reptile light, 50-60uW/sq cm, 15min every 12 hrs & ramping.


Post your setup and periodic grow pics.
 

hybridway2

Amare Shill
96/360 are same bds, the grow is soil2coco’s, not mine.

The 2.2g/w was from eight 288s; 3.8lbs pure, dry bud. I expect similar for 96/360s, and am in process of setting up side-by-side: topped and defol’d mothers yesterday to direct growth to laterals.

View attachment 4245041
Day 25 from popping seeds:
View attachment 4245042View attachment 4245043
Single 96, 24” ht,24/0, 39DLI; single reflector 24w Arcadia reptile light, 50-60uW/sq cm, 15min every 12 hrs & ramping.


Post your setup and periodic grow pics.
Nice stuff. That did by side shoukd be interesting.
So did the Arcadia bulb show up on the spectral read out?
 

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
Nice stuff. That did by side shoukd be interesting.
So did the Arcadia bulb show up on the spectral read out?
32AD6219-596D-49CD-A409-390B7CF149BD.jpeg FDD8379F-3B0F-4C8C-8747-5F5C0EB2E5FF.jpeg DC156784-03D2-4288-A442-9862FEAA3422.jpeg 004298C5-5696-43B0-B8B6-FBF19B842E4A.jpeg 92301B17-83A3-46F1-A345-45C555FDEA5F.jpeg 811E7253-26DE-4AA0-8620-F01B22D6C806.jpeg FEE91A9D-774B-4781-8D0A-716125EAD37A.jpeg 846CBA22-79DE-453D-87F6-C4A89B2F68E5.jpeg

Not really meaningful uv-wise (uv nm is lower than meter range), don’t really understand the far-red part...

Here are some readings of uvb uW/sq cm (symmetric radiation on all 4 quadrants, so you can fill in the three not shown):

EED39474-3EB2-4E47-B9ED-455AAC2407E8.jpeg 09A483D3-5F1E-4976-B8FD-69566AFDE06B.jpeg
 
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Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
View attachment 4245246 View attachment 4245247 View attachment 4245248 View attachment 4245249 View attachment 4245250 View attachment 4245251 View attachment 4245252 View attachment 4245253

Not really meaningful uv-wise (uv nm is lower than meter range), don’t really understand the far-red part...

Here are some readings of uW/sq cm (symmetric radiation on all 4 quadrants, so you can fill in the three not shown):

View attachment 4245256 View attachment 4245257
Uv test set up:
2F11AFF6-F19F-425A-AE91-DBF344F352A8.jpeg
 
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