TheTinkerer
Active Member
I am still debating qb vs strips. The strips sound great, but they seem expensive. There’s a QB324 3500k on sale that sounds pretty good. I’m not finding strips that compare well with the price of qb’s
I can’t find much. It’s 324 lm301b at 3500kThe QB324 is 3500k.
No efficacy or dimensions etc?
Specifications
- One QB324 V2 board.
- One Singles Slate 2 heatsink
- Connectors rated 300V 9A
- 54+ VDC. Absolute Max current per board 3200mA
Stay away from any board over 288's. The 324's have suuuuuper high, like 100+, voltage reds making it impossible to use Constant Voltage drivers.I am still debating qb vs strips. The strips sound great, but they seem expensive. There’s a QB324 3500k on sale that sounds pretty good. I’m not finding strips that compare well with the price of qb’s
I thought those boards were a higher voltage than 54?The QB324 is 3500k.
No efficacy or dimensions etc?
Specifications
- One QB324 V2 board.
- One Singles Slate 2 heatsink
- Connectors rated 300V 9A
- 54+ VDC. Absolute Max current per board 3200mA
That was the original version of the 324. The new ones are 54v and use LM301B, just like the 288.Stay away from any board over 288's. The 324's have suuuuuper high, like 100+, voltage reds making it impossible to use Constant Voltage drivers.
Aahh I see. Very cool. They must have realized how unbelievably stupid a mistake it was and remedied it.That was the original version of the 324. The new ones are 54v and use LM301B, just like the 288.
Can't agree with you on that one. I'm still scratching my head, trying to understand the point of a 324 board that has almost the same power rating as the 288. HLG even recommends the same drivers as those used with the 288. So... What's the reason for the 324 to exist now? With the older version you could push the boards to 200w (or even higher with active cooling). Not my cup of tea, as I'm all about low power/high diffusion, but they certainly had their application. @Prawn Connery put them to good use in his buddy's garden, with two boards running at 400w total to replace a 600w HPS. The new 324s can't do that.Aahh I see. Very cool. They must have realized how unbelievably stupid a mistake it was and remedied it.
Do you mean you can't agree MORE with me? LolCan't agree with you on that one. I'm still scratching my head, trying to understand the point of a 324 board that has almost the same power rating as the 288. HLG even recommends the same drivers as those used with the 288. So... What's the reason for the 324 to exist now? With the older version you could push the boards to 200w (or even higher with active cooling). Not my cup of tea, as I'm all about low power/high diffusion, but they certainly had their application. @Prawn Connery put them to good use in his buddy's garden, with two boards running at 400w total to replace a 600w HPS. The new 324s can't do that.
No, I can't agree that they remedied the original 324 with the new one. Is that not what you meant?Do you mean you can't agree MORE with me? Lol
Well you said they're 54v now right?No, I can't agree that they remedied the original 324 with the new one. Is that not what you meant?
Can you lay out the voltages for versions 1 & 2 of both 324 & 288?Guys, the new QB324 V2 is a completely different board to the old QB324 V1.
V2 uses 2.8V/200mA LM301B at CRI 80
V1 uses 6V/150mA Nichia LEDs (NT2L757GRT-V1) mixed CRI 80 and 90
I've had quite a few questions from people about the new QB324s and its unfortunate that HLG doesn't spell out the differences, as many have assumed they are very similar.
@Humple, I tend to agree with you. The old QB324 may not have been the most efficient board on the market, but it offered something other boards didn't (high CRI, more red for the same spectrum, more power for those who wanted it, and a decent price). Just my 2c
The circuit is 18Px 18S. Simply multiply the individual LED Vf by 18.Can you lay out the voltages for versions 1 & 2 of both 324 & 288?
Sorry, missed the bit about the QB288 V2. EDIT: The circuitry is 18S x 16P, so multiply 2.85-2.9V by 18 and you get closer to 51-52V. That's at max rating (which is less as a percentage than the max rating for the QB324 according to HLG).Can you lay out the voltages for versions 1 & 2 of both 324 & 288?
So 324v1/110V, 324v2/52-54V, 288v1/56v, and 288v2/46v?Sorry, missed the bit about the QB288 V2. The circuitry is 18P x 16S, so multiply 2.85V by 16 and you get closer to 46V. That's at max rating (which is less as a percentage than the max rating for the QB324 according to HLG).
So what would happen if you wired a 324V1 board to NA mains 110voltage? Hehehe...The circuit is 18Px 18S. Simply multiply the individual LED Vf by 18.
So the new boards are rated 54V, but at their maximum current (HLG says max current board rating of 3.2A), each LM301B is typically dropping about 2.85V. Round that up to 2.9V to be safe. So around 52V
The old boards could theoretically be pushed to 6.5V/150mA (going by the data sheet) but we have been running them at about 6.1V/100mA per LED for a total of 200W per board. That's about the limit of the passive heatsinks - although we do blow a circulation fan across them (indirect cooling from a fan in the room, as opposed to direct cooling from a fan mounted on the board).
So that works out about 110V. We have two boards wired in series for about 220V total.
Oops!. No - my mistake. The QB288 boards are 18S x 16P, so the V1 would be about 54V max while the V2 would be about 51-52V. I'll go back and correct that in my original post.So 324v1/110V, 324v2/52-54V, 288v1/56v, and 288v2/46v?