Ethos Banana Hammock comparative(exodus thread)

schmebulock

Well-Known Member
That was in response to schmebulock. LOL It was supposed to be anyway. he had that nice little crate looking contraption to plug is little rockwool cubes in.
Hey thanks! It's pretty useful
Rockwool cubes: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XQECROY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Super Sprouter w/ hood and light and heating pad: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ISSZZLO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
grodan tray: https://www.amazon.com/Grodan-GL56707445-Gro-Smart-Tray-Insert/dp/B004PTFZ48
temp controller for heating pad: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I15S6OM


I'm assuming you work primarily with networking? Or do you manage hardware and software as well.
yeah i do networking, hardware, and software, all tiers
 

Chunky Stool

Well-Known Member
Can't go wrong with compost. I make my own, it is vermicompost.

Never tried that stuff. I can't imagine it's better than fresh though?
Dunno.
Probably depends on the composition.
Do you formulate yours with kelp, worm castings and equisetum?

Pretty sure it's easy to keep microbes alive & healthy in a dry environment.
Oregonism XL is a good example...
 

3rd Monkey

Well-Known Member
@schmebulock

Alright, think I've got a solid analogy for you.

Ppm is basically data. Too little data, there's no sustenance to feed the system to operate. Too much data, there's an overload and it can't be sorted fast enough to process. Simple enough, I know you understand this.

Now, since ppm is just data, it is fairly useless in its raw form. It needs to be sorted, organized, collected, and stored. Luckily, the plant does all of that for you, you just input the data.

To make this easier, you provide an amount of data that can be easily handled, without lacking enough to function or without overloading. This is why I have you top off with fresh, as opposed to traditional hydro. It allows you to take information from the data and store it, to remove it from the equation. If you constantly bombard the system with data, eventually you are going to need to do a dump to offset the overload, or reservoir reset.

Sometimes you will encounter incomplete information, generally from a lack of needed data. This usually displays as a deficiency in your plant. This could be from too much data to easily extract the information smoothly, or from a lack of data entirely.

As your plant grows, so does the amount of storage in the database, along with the analysts to log it. More data in, more info out.

Next, we need to move into what data should be logged versus what is irrelevant, or even harmful, and how to fill your database with the right data at the right time. Pretty sure I didn't tell you anything you didn't know yet, just making sure we are on the same page. Tracking?
 

schmebulock

Well-Known Member
@schmebulock

Alright, think I've got a solid analogy for you.

Ppm is basically data. Too little data, there's no sustenance to feed the system to operate. Too much data, there's an overload and it can't be sorted fast enough to process. Simple enough, I know you understand this.

Now, since ppm is just data, it is fairly useless in its raw form. It needs to be sorted, organized, collected, and stored. Luckily, the plant does all of that for you, you just input the data.

To make this easier, you provide an amount of data that can be easily handled, without lacking enough to function or without overloading. This is why I have you top off with fresh, as opposed to traditional hydro. It allows you to take information from the data and store it, to remove it from the equation. If you constantly bombard the system with data, eventually you are going to need to do a dump to offset the overload, or reservoir reset.

Sometimes you will encounter incomplete information, generally from a lack of needed data. This usually displays as a deficiency in your plant. This could be from too much data to easily extract the information smoothly, or from a lack of data entirely.

As your plant grows, so does the amount of storage in the database, along with the analysts to log it. More data in, more info out.

Next, we need to move into what data should be logged versus what is irrelevant, or even harmful, and how to fill your database with the right data at the right time. Pretty sure I didn't tell you anything you didn't know yet, just making sure we are on the same page. Tracking?
definitely with you so far :)
 

3rd Monkey

Well-Known Member
Dunno.
Probably depends on the composition.
Do you formulate yours with kelp, worm castings and equisetum?

Pretty sure it's easy to keep microbes alive & healthy in a dry environment.
Oregonism XL is a good example...
Mine is vermicompost, so I use the worms to speed up the process, as well as boost important microbes and supplement a small amount of chelated nutrients.

You can keep them alive, but temp fluctuation, moisture content and aeration controls the population. Different microbes operate at different temps as well.

Anyhow, as long as folks are reaping the benefits of compost, I'm happy.
 

3rd Monkey

Well-Known Member
definitely with you so far :)
Good lol.

Let's talk operating systems, since they are what is going to dictate what data to log and how to log it.

Your operating system (your medium) is going to manage your resources. Obviously, this operating system is going to set most of your parameters. It will also dictate your hardware (roots and foliage) capabilities.

When you add data, it is managed by your software, and stored on your hardware. Really sorry for redundancy, just correlating computer parts to grow parts lol.

Your job is to input data at the right time and in the right proportion to keep things flowing smoothly.

Here is how you decide which data to add and when. Back to the cannabis realm. We need to talk nutes. These next few posts I will try to keep as short as I can, but as detailed as I can, but you WILL be able to calculate ppm and know how to proportion it and when.
 

schmebulock

Well-Known Member
Here is how you decide which data to add and when. Back to the cannabis realm. We need to talk nutes. These next few posts I will try to keep as short as I can, but as detailed as I can, but you WILL be able to calculate ppm and know how to proportion it and when.
cool, excited lol
 

3rd Monkey

Well-Known Member
This is all based on my opinion about these nutrients, specifically in cannabis, based upon my experience.

NPK

Nitrogen is the 2nd most important nutrient, but is the most used in all stages. It is the building block of the entire plant. Consequently, it has the largest ppm value due to its use. As the plant stops building and growing, decrease N. Usually after stretch.

Phosphorus is in a 3 way tie for 3rd. It is crucial for root development, plant food development and maturity, as well as passing along DNA. Ppm should be at LEAST half of N through veg to support growth but increase as growth stops to increase plant processing and production.

K is singlehandedly the most versatile and important nutrient in all processes. It is the foreman of the build. It decides who shows up and when they go home. It regulates the breathing, feeding, and drinking rate of the plant. Ppm should follow closely to ppm of N, and increase as growth slows, but plant functions increase.

Calcium... if nitrogen are blocks, calcium is the mortar. It's responsible for making sure those blocks stay put and that the foundation stays strong to carry more blocks up. If you use less mortar, the foundation is weak and will crumble and deform. If you use too much, stability is effected. Just like block to mortar ratio, calcium ppm should mimic 1/4-1/8 of nitrogen levels.

Magnesium is what gives leaves that green so they can capture light and use it. Without it, they fade and lose growth rate. Ppm should stay close to half of calcium, more under less than ideal conditions like hot or low humidity.

With the trio, those are the only nutrients that you should ever have to deal with. It has enough sulfur and trace minerals that there should be no issues there.

I kept trying to put it in IT terms, but there's way more intricacy in software programming than I want to try to convey lol. Hopefully that's simple enough.
 

schmebulock

Well-Known Member
This is all based on my opinion about these nutrients, specifically in cannabis, based upon my experience.

NPK

Nitrogen is the 2nd most important nutrient, but is the most used in all stages. It is the building block of the entire plant. Consequently, it has the largest ppm value due to its use. As the plant stops building and growing, decrease N. Usually after stretch.

Phosphorus is in a 3 way tie for 3rd. It is crucial for root development, plant food development and maturity, as well as passing along DNA. Ppm should be at LEAST half of N through veg to support growth but increase as growth stops to increase plant processing and production.

K is singlehandedly the most versatile and important nutrient in all processes. It is the foreman of the build. It decides who shows up and when they go home. It regulates the breathing, feeding, and drinking rate of the plant. Ppm should follow closely to ppm of N, and increase as growth slows, but plant functions increase.

Calcium... if nitrogen are blocks, calcium is the mortar. It's responsible for making sure those blocks stay put and that the foundation stays strong to carry more blocks up. If you use less mortar, the foundation is weak and will crumble and deform. If you use too much, stability is effected. Just like block to mortar ratio, calcium ppm should mimic 1/4-1/8 of nitrogen levels.

Magnesium is what gives leaves that green so they can capture light and use it. Without it, they fade and lose growth rate. Ppm should stay close to half of calcium, more under less than ideal conditions like hot or low humidity.

With the trio, those are the only nutrients that you should ever have to deal with. It has enough sulfur and trace minerals that there should be no issues there.

I kept trying to put it in IT terms, but there's way more intricacy in software programming than I want to try to convey lol. Hopefully that's simple enough.
no worries - this definitely would be difficult to translate into IT

is there a simple way to determine the deficiencies present?
 

schmebulock

Well-Known Member
This is what i'm going to try next grow - this is what people are swearing by (from growweedeasy.com)

too many people said Lucas Formula had nitrogen deficiencies in flower because the ratio was too low when you are using heavy lights (like quantum boards)

I will still include GFF, Hydroguard, Mammoth P, rapidstart in 1mL increments

 

3rd Monkey

Well-Known Member
no worries - this definitely would be difficult to translate into IT

is there a simple way to determine the deficiencies present?
Depending on what's affected and how, what the nutrient does, is what tells you where to look. Just like in IT, you have to gather and decipher the data at hand. IT, you should be pretty good at complex problem solving and logics.

Once you are more familiar and adept to how the nutrients interact with your plant, you'll be able to troubleshoot very quickly based upon your logarithmic data.

My advice would be to study nutrient/plant interactions. You don't even need to go as far as ionic bonding to understand it and it will make your grows exponentially easier.

Charts are nice, but there are too many variables between temp, elevation, humidity, which side of the equator, natural CO2 ppm, etc, that make them perfect for everyone. Hence, there are hundreds of feed charts for the same sets of nutes. Dynamic data...
 

3rd Monkey

Well-Known Member
This is what i'm going to try next grow - this is what people are swearing by (from growweedeasy.com)

too many people said Lucas Formula had nitrogen deficiencies in flower because the ratio was too low when you are using heavy lights (like quantum boards)

I will still include GFF, Hydroguard, Mammoth P, rapidstart in 1mL increments

Any chart that tells me to change my res every 7-10 days... I say FU! Lol.

Why? Why waste the water, the nutes, and most importantly... my time?
 

schmebulock

Well-Known Member
Depending on what's affected and how, what the nutrient does, is what tells you where to look. Just like in IT, you have to gather and decipher the data at hand. IT, you should be pretty good at complex problem solving and logics.

Once you are more familiar and adept to how the nutrients interact with your plant, you'll be able to troubleshoot very quickly based upon your logarithmic data.

My advice would be to study nutrient/plant interactions. You don't even need to go as far as ionic bonding to understand it and it will make your grows exponentially easier.

Charts are nice, but there are too many variables between temp, elevation, humidity, which side of the equator, natural CO2 ppm, etc, that make them perfect for everyone. Hence, there are hundreds of feed charts for the same sets of nutes. Dynamic data...
makes sense - i definitely want to understand what's happening each time i review the data. Bought a calendar to keep in the garden so i can track daily changes and make notes of what i've done
 

schmebulock

Well-Known Member
Any chart that tells me to change my res every 7-10 days... I say FU! Lol.

Why? Why waste the water, the nutes, and most importantly... my time?
i thought it was beneficial to ditch all the bonded junk from time to time? couple other guides i found said they change it out after they've filled the reservoir the same amount as what it can hold. So if you've put a gallon back in every day for the last 4 days you need to swap the water out of a 4 gallon (5 gallon) bucket for fresh stuff
 

3rd Monkey

Well-Known Member
makes sense - i definitely want to understand what's happening each time i review the data. Bought a calendar to keep in the garden so i can track daily changes and make notes of what i've done
Hell of a good start.

Start checking out some agricultural books and finding nutrient breakdowns if you need further in depth. Once you get the hang of it, it just becomes routine like anything else.
 

3rd Monkey

Well-Known Member
i thought it was beneficial to ditch all the bonded junk from time to time? couple other guides i found said they change it out after they've filled the reservoir the same amount as what it can hold. So if you've put a gallon back in every day for the last 4 days you need to swap the water out of a 4 gallon (5 gallon) bucket for fresh stuff
That bonded junk isn't hurting anything. You can't even see it, so it's not taking up much space.

You can ditch it or you can calculate it into final ppm. Whichever is easier for the grower to manipulate. Personally, I don't res swap unless I have to because of the ecosystem I build in there and it would just be wasteful.

I don't think @iceman2494 swaps either.
 
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