PuffaloSoldier
Member
You can get a 28w deep and far red booster board. Search exotic booster grow light. Repid led has em. And so does our friends at alibaba
DIY with Quantum Boards
- Thread starter robincnn
- Start date
Frank Nitty
Well-Known Member
Don't talk him up!!! He'll appear like candyman!!!
Nizza
Well-Known Member
I was wondering if it's okay to remotely mount the driver from the heatsync or is it supposed to be put on there for heat? I would rather have my ballast outside of my grow than inside anyone know? I watched the video and they mount it to the aluminum heatsync that the boards are mounted to
pop22
Well-Known Member
I have 2 tents and a cabinet all with QB lighting. All drivers are mounted remotely. Only mount the driver on the heatsink if you need the extra heat as in a room that stays cool or cold in winter.
daveybc
Well-Known Member
I use 18 gauge solid. There is some debate on this but if you use a voltage calculator the voltage drop is minimal at 20'. It is recommended you have a true ground to the fixture and I usually scratch the anodized heatsink a little to ensure it is grounded to any aluminum frame. Perhaps run a wire with 3 conductor wire. If you use UV you can get better wire ( chemical/uv proof ), same as what GreeneryBob uses ( recommended paged back ). Do not connect stranded wire to Molex connectors. I almost broke a Molex connector connecting "tinned" stranded from a driver to the Molex on a board. I had to pick out strands of wire with fine needle nose pliers.
grilledcheese101
Well-Known Member
Hoping this will push me over 10 ozs this time, (im expecting 8 but shooting for 12 lol) 3 5 gal smart pots. 2 chem #4s and a lemonade og in the center.
Fyi, oil drain pans from the dollar store work great as a sturdy, run off catch basin.
Fyi, oil drain pans from the dollar store work great as a sturdy, run off catch basin.
Thank you for this warning. I was gonna try tinned, stranded... Actually, I might still. But thanks regardless, haha.
daveybc
Well-Known Member
I had the tinned driver end connected into a molex and it released fine on a few occasions. then one time the tinned edge must have got caught up good in the molex. I really had to pull hard. It finally released with the plastic from the molex dislodged and the tinned end brealkng apart leaving some strands stuck. I was lucky the plastic snapped back on and I was able to pull some wire strands out with fine needle nose. Best to have a solid 18 gauge and connect it by means on wago connector.
pop22
Well-Known Member
I run 18 gauge stranded from the driver to a wago. I use short 3-4" strips of 18ga. solid from the wago to the QB. Solid wire is a pain in the ass and looks like crap hanging in a tent. If you need to be able to raise and lower your lights, stranded with a short jumper to the QB works well.
GBAUTO
Well-Known Member
This what I plan on doing. 18ga zip cords from the drivers into the room and then connected to short sections of 18ga solid to connect to the arrays.
Increased purple from the 660 in the rspec just as i predicted. This is clone that ive been growing for a while and never got purpling like this. Temps are also very high and i have been feeding heavy calmag. The next question we have to ask ourselves is if this is detrimental to photosynthesis. I bought this light day 1, predicting it would do this for some bag appeal. But now my plants are viney and these buds just aren't bulky as the v2's and im getting burns/bleaching at 6inches, where as my v2s didnt burn until within 2 inches. Whats the next add on to the V4 that's going to fix viney problems. I have been unsuccessfully using silica. I will need to add some serious fans into my next grow room.
GBAUTO
Well-Known Member
How far into flower are those pics? I think you may be experiencing the reason I decided to have a manual override for my string of 660's. I normally only run them during flower but I have run them during veg on plants to encourage some stretch. Kinda amazing to watch how the plant responds.
PadawanWarrior
Well-Known Member
Beautiful man.
Warpedpassage
Well-Known Member
I would be really surprised to conclude its the deep reds causing your issues. More than likely its other variables. Like you said, higher temps, higher cal mag, higher silicon. Not trying to be argumentative, no one know your room better than you.
Frank Nitty
Well-Known Member
What size light are you using???
Frank Nitty
Well-Known Member
I don't have the proper driver for my 2 qb288 v2 rspec diy kit but I still use it... Some of the buds are hard,some fluffy... I think even with the right driver i would rather have regular v2s...
Its a 120 54a, 135w kit. I vegged it under a 100w V1. I know all my variables. Its the 660. Theres some anecdotal research on this as well, search anthocyanin and leds in google. Some of the sources also show blue light increasing anthocyanin. The rspec has higher blue too because they are 3500k. By this logic though every blurple should be making the dopest looking bud anyones ever seen. Ive only ever used supplemental blurples with a hid and i had purpling there as well, on one side of a plant. The difference is the intensity. Everyone says its depends on temperature and nutriets, back a couple hundred pages i had said it does not. They said it would have to be 1 in the genetics 2 cold environment and 3 low magnesium. Anthocyanin is functioning as a sunscreen. The rspec is too strong, the plants method of protecting itself by growing is not working because photosynthesis is maximized. This may mean that anthocyanins stunt growth and we not be able to achieve purpling and yield at the same time. Rspec 135w in a 2x2 is overkill, where as a the V2 is perfect. Rspec on a 100W driver is the best option but i have a feeling it wont perform well as a 120 v2. After all the research ive done, my ideal set up would be to use a V2 or whatever cheap high efficiency white diodes, then use a supplemental light at certain stages with UV, deep far red and blues.
I think its about day 50. I would normally harvest about day 55, but these look like they might be a bit slower. Without pulling out my microscope, the trichs look done but most of the hairs are white. They should be atleast 50% now. I don't have any explanation for this, i cant think of any reason it would related to the 660 but its the only variable in my grow room.
I was also trying to explain the color or deficiency as some call it. The v1 and v2s almost always came out pale green, not yellow. The rspecs are yellow from the start but not pale or greenish yellow. Its a dark yellow. A week after being under the rspec it turned this color. It took me a lot of power to not change anything because i thought it needed N or had too much water, ph problems. Its not that type of yellowing, its literally exactly like watching a japanese maple tree go from green-yellow-red. This photos from a couple weeks ago. Its about a week too early for the leaves to turn and fall off, but they also yellowed much earlier in the grow. After that is the same clone line grown under v2s, 0 purpling. Im not knocking the rspec but its different than the v2, i mean i mount these to the top at 60inches, then i put the plants in when the canopy is at around 30 inches. Im very surprised to get bleaching, i also rotate the plants a quarter turn every day. Where i could see the rspec really filling a niche is 12/12 from seed and autos but with my photoperiod plants it seems to be throwing them a curveball of sorts. Perfect for a fast little indica, mines a sativa dominat hybrid and its just not going to mature fast enough under these to get to its full potential like it would under the v2. I think once it starts making the anthocyanins its just not going to be able to do photosynthesis as well. The rspecs faster, better looking and more potent looking bud but at the same time its viney, harder to trim, slower to fully mature some plants. The 3000k v2 is just a reliable general purpose producer for me, never had any issues other than some occasional fluffy bud.
