Do you like my tent set up

[GanjaGreg.]

That light puts out 200 watts.

Okay after some more research I now understand the difference between PAR watts and watts. Lol

 

[GanjaGreg.]

Nah unfortunately i cant link an article or anything, just going off what some of the top growers around here have stated. It could all be broscience lol i dunno

@Renfro is much smarter than I , i think he could probably give you some reasoning. Hes one of the best around here.

Heck on the flip side, theres many growers around here who will also tell you that you dont need to PH your water when in some soils. I always ph every drop of water my plants get. Your gonna read alot of differing opinions around here, some will state them as facts, others as just old school ways or whatever, half the battle of being new is deciphering between whats legit info and what isnt, who to listen to and follow their grows and who to ignore....Its a hornets nest out there lol

Best of luck

Hey man, I really appreciate you pointing me in the direction of @Renfro . Guys a beast, and he just so happened to post a thread about ph when I reached to him. He told me basically runoff is pointless if you’re just feeding straight water . I also called fox farm about my question about why my runoff was so low, they too told me that testing runoff wasn’t ideal and offered a better alternative. The lady referred to it as “soil flurry” I believe, but I couldn’t find it online. She said you take a soil sample and a tap water sample. 1:1. Let us sit for 15 mins and then test the ph. I’m curious if anyone has heard of this before. I honestly didn’t ask her too many questions she seemed to really know her stuff and really knocked me off balance with all the new info, I’ll call back when I get my thoughts together.

 

[GanjaGreg.]

Also does anyone know any reputable mainliners On RIU? I want to mainline mine and I would like to find my master splinter.

 

[Merlin1147]

Okay after some more research I now understand the difference between PAR watts and watts. Lol

With most light manufacturers It’s not even as complicated as PAR vs total light. It’s as Simple as the manufacturers misleading.
Watts=amps x volts.

 

[Merlin1147]

Hey man, I really appreciate you pointing me in the direction of @Renfro . Guys a beast, and he just so happened to post a thread about ph when I reached to him. He told me basically runoff is pointless if you’re just feeding straight water . I also called fox farm about my question about why my runoff was so low, they too told me that testing runoff wasn’t ideal and offered a better alternative. The lady referred to it as “soil flurry” I believe, but I couldn’t find it online. She said you take a soil sample and a tap water sample. 1:1. Let us sit for 15 mins and then test the ph. I’m curious if anyone has heard of this before. I honestly didn’t ask her too many questions she seemed to really know her stuff and really knocked me off balance with all the new info, I’ll call back when I get my thoughts together.

NC Stste developed a leachate method a while back. It’s a bit involved but works.

https://projects.ncsu.edu/project/hortsublab/pdf/PourThru_Master_HIL.pdf

 

[diggs99]

Hey man, I really appreciate you pointing me in the direction of @Renfro . Guys a beast, and he just so happened to post a thread about ph when I reached to him. He told me basically runoff is pointless if you’re just feeding straight water . I also called fox farm about my question about why my runoff was so low, they too told me that testing runoff wasn’t ideal and offered a better alternative. The lady referred to it as “soil flurry” I believe, but I couldn’t find it online. She said you take a soil sample and a tap water sample. 1:1. Let us sit for 15 mins and then test the ph. I’m curious if anyone has heard of this before. I honestly didn’t ask her too many questions she seemed to really know her stuff and really knocked me off balance with all the new info, I’ll call back when I get my thoughts together.

No prob bud, renfro is legit.

Yes many here have run slurry tests, I'm not one of them and think they still fall into the catagory of don't know don't care lol. Ph out the bottom makes no difference to me imo

Make sure what your putting in the pots is ph'd properly and your soil should do the rest.

Also good to water to runoff to help avoid salts building up

Best of luck

 

[GanjaGreg.]

With most light manufacturers It’s not even as complicated as PAR vs total light. It’s as Simple as the manufacturers misleading.
Watts=amps x volts.

So if the recommendations is 30 watts per sq ft. A 3x3 would need 270watts. (9x30=270)
And my vivosun output is 135, I just need another vivosun 300w , right?

 

[GanjaGreg.]

NC Stste developed a leachate method a while back. It’s a bit involved but works.

https://projects.ncsu.edu/project/hortsublab/pdf/PourThru_Master_HIL.pdf

This might be a bit over my head to be honest.
I only read it once though, I might try again.

 

[Merlin1147]

So if the recommendations is 30 watts per sq ft. A 3x3 would need 270watts. (9x30=270)
And my vivosun output is 135, I just need another vivosun 300w , right?

The recommendation is 30 watts of quality LEDs which means full spectrum strips, cobs and quantum boards. For lights like the Vivosuns which use diodes that emit specific frequencies ideally you’ll want more than that. Or add some strips cobs or qbs. With the two 300w lights it’ll do ok but not great. All depends on your expectations.

 

[coreywebster]

I wanna put the hps closer but it’s so damn hot it puts my temps in the low 90s.. I think I found the sweet spot w my current spot about 20 inches away.View attachment 4421785View attachment 4421786

Think about this logically, if you move the light closer to the thermometer it gets much warmer. But the wattage in the space and the rate of air exchange stays the same, therefore the temp is the same. This is because your warming the thermometer with radiant heat from the bulb. This is not the same as taking an air temp reading which is what you want to be doing.
To do that you have the thermometer out of direct light.

All that said everyone is right, you do not need both lights on at this stage. It just niggles me to see people put a thermometer right under the light. Air temp and radiant heat are different things and plants have very different range of tolerance to each.
The general rule for hps is if you can hold your hand at canopy level under the light without having to pull it away then it good.

 

[GanjaGreg.]

Think about this logically, if you move the light closer to the thermometer it gets much warmer. But the wattage in the space and the rate of air exchange stays the same, therefore the temp is the same. This is because your warming the thermometer with radiant heat from the bulb. This is not the same as taking an air temp reading which is what you want to be doing.
To do that you have the thermometer out of direct light.

All that said everyone is right, you do not need both lights on at this stage. It just niggles me to see people put a thermometer right under the light. Air temp and radiant heat are different things and plants have very different range of tolerance to each.
The general rule for hps is if you can hold your hand at canopy level under the light without having to pull it away then it good.

So how do you test the canopy temp without being under direct light, I said before I’m no scientist but I keep my canopy in direct light during the on cycle.

 

[coreywebster]

So how do you test the canopy temp without being under direct light, I said before I’m no scientist but I keep my canopy in direct light during the on cycle.

Like I just said, with the hand test. You can get fancy if you like with a laser thermometer but the important measurement is air temperature.

 

[diggs99]

Think about this logically, if you move the light closer to the thermometer it gets much warmer. But the wattage in the space and the rate of air exchange stays the same, therefore the temp is the same. This is because your warming the thermometer with radiant heat from the bulb. This is not the same as taking an air temp reading which is what you want to be doing.
To do that you have the thermometer out of direct light.

All that said everyone is right, you do not need both lights on at this stage. It just niggles me to see people put a thermometer right under the light. Air temp and radiant heat are different things and plants have very different range of tolerance to each.
The general rule for hps is if you can hold your hand at canopy level under the light without having to pull it away then it good.

He obv hasnt met Kinggrow1 yet lol

 

[coreywebster]

So how do you test the canopy temp without being under direct light, I said before I’m no scientist but I keep my canopy in direct light during the on cycle.

Sorry, just to add, if you want air temp at canopy level then you simply shade the thermometer and have good air circulation.
With proper air circulation through the whole space the difference between top, middle and bottom is marginal.

 

[madvillian420]

It looks tight because they’re in a 2x2 tent. They will move to the 3x3 as they get bigger. I have 4 4gallon smart pots, I plan to buy 2 5 gallon pots and compare the size difference.. possibly even 7gallons in The future

im growing in a 3x3 area right now with one plant in a 5g pot and by the time shes done stretching i will be out of room. LST or SCROG can help you get the most out of your space. Less pots=less trouble

 

[Frank Nitty]

Think about this logically, if you move the light closer to the thermometer it gets much warmer. But the wattage in the space and the rate of air exchange stays the same, therefore the temp is the same. This is because your warming the thermometer with radiant heat from the bulb. This is not the same as taking an air temp reading which is what you want to be doing.
To do that you have the thermometer out of direct light.

All that said everyone is right, you do not need both lights on at this stage. It just niggles me to see people put a thermometer right under the light. Air temp and radiant heat are different things and plants have very different range of tolerance to each.
The general rule for hps is if you can hold your hand at canopy level under the light without having to pull it away then it good.

He's gonna burn those plants up!!! Wait til they get bigger!!!

 

[coreywebster]

He's gonna burn those plants up!!! Wait til they get bigger!!!

Possibly Frank. Unless he's Chuck Norris or does some serious canopy management, or both.

 

[508blunemo]

300w Vivosun led
150w sun system hps
1x clip fan
2x2 tent
half fox farm ocean forest
half happy frog
Temp. 74-80 f
Humidity. 34-38%


one of my seedlings had the seed casing stuck on it for the first 2 days and now the first true leaves are coming in with white/yellow tips?? Water was ph tested. 5.7. Let me know what you think of the set up.. I wanna put the hps closer but it’s so damn hot it puts my temps in the low 90s.. I think I found the sweet spot w my current spot about 20 inches away.View attachment 4421785View attachment 4421786

Isnt Foxfarm and happy frog from the same company

 

[coreywebster]

Also does anyone know any reputable mainliners On RIU? I want to mainline mine and I would like to find my master splinter.

The Main-Lining Thread

I am getting a lot of requests to put a formal "main-lining" thread together to make it easier for ya'll to access, and reference....so here goes...... "Main-Lining" definition. a form of training and managing canopy for cannabis.....to build a "hub" off of a single node creating a...

www.rollitup.org

Don't know how active it is but the search feature will probably yield other mainlining threads

 

[Frank Nitty]

Possibly Frank. Unless he's Chuck Norris or does some serious canopy management, or both.

That's a lot of light for those small plants!!! I know... I started with a 2x2x3