ChiefRunningPhist
Well-Known Member
What @1212ham says is spot on. I've been dropping my wattage estimates (to 30W/ft2 from 35W/ft2) as LEDs become more efficient, but if you went with 320h's (2 in a 4×4, like I run) then you'd have the option of blasting more light, or raising your fixture up a bit. My LEDs were China imports (FYI, I had a bad experience going through Rita Fang and Meiju, I'd suggest Kingbrite or someone else if going the China route) and I wasn't sure what their performance (μmol/J) would be so I opted for the higher wattage drivers just in case. With a strip build your spread is very uniform which means you can get close to the plants, when using LED rated over 2.5μmol/J+ (CREE JB3030) I thought that 480W would be sufficient, but if you can rub (2) $20's together then going with (2) 320h over (2) 240h is a good thing imo. Gives options for expandability ect.I’m looking at Meanwell Drivers. Waiting to hear from @welight and gonna try to get everything I need from him. I’d rather buy it all at once from one supplier.
(2) - 240h 48a/b
(2) - 320h 48a/b
(1) - 480h 48a/b
(1) - 600h 48a/b
The important thing is that they are 48V. Other than that you just need to buy enough of them, and size them correctly to meet the demands that your strip fixture requires based on your wattage/ft2 desires (30W - 35W). If you go with an overwattage option, it will just give you the option of adding more strips later if you want. If you want more power per strip, then you'll have to go with CC drivers (the options listed are CV drivers), but the strips are cheap enough, so its my opinion, if wanting more wattage, to choose an over wattage CV driver solution (2×320h or 1×600h) from the list above, and then just add more pairs of strips, as opposed to keeping the same # of strips and trying to push over your 25W/strip limit.
EDIT:
A versions have built in dimming POTs
Example: 320h 48a
B versions you have to wire in your own aftermarket dimming POT
Example: 320h 48b
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