Spider farmer sf 4000 maximum wattage

I'm looking for people using the SF 4000 LED light. The factory settings were at 460 on mine but I'm looking for a maximum that is safe to use without damaging the LED bulbs. I was adjusting it and it would go past 500 watts and approaching 600 pretty quickly. Is anyone using this board??? What wattage are you running. Thanks in advance
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
I'm looking for people using the SF 4000 LED light. The factory settings were at 460 on mine but I'm looking for a maximum that is safe to use without damaging the LED bulbs. I was adjusting it and it would go past 500 watts and approaching 600 pretty quickly. Is anyone using this board??? What wattage are you running. Thanks in advance
It can handle 600 for a while, surely. It's boards are on a large heatsink. Just make sure the air is moving around it while it's up. I'd say you oughtta stay under 530ish watts though.
 
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I wrote the company and they said to not go beyond the 456 watt draw. I tried mine at about 600 for 10 minutes with no ill effects. It did get warm compared to the absolute minimum that I had it running at. Right now I have it set to about 320 watt and I'm getting similar readings to my 630 CMH setup that I just retired. I'm still kind of questioning whether or not I should have made the change from CMH to LED I guess time will tell. Thanks though I appreciate the response
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
I wrote the company and they said to not go beyond the 456 watt draw. I tried mine at about 600 for 10 minutes with no ill effects. It did get warm compared to the absolute minimum that I had it running at. Right now I have it set to about 320 watt and I'm getting similar readings to my 630 CMH setup that I just retired. I'm still kind of questioning whether or not I should have made the change from CMH to LED I guess time will tell. Thanks though I appreciate the response
It's a whole world of less heat to deal with, at least there's that advantage, eh?
 
Well sort of. The radiant heat is a completely different animal but the CMH is air cooled and easier to directly pipe out of the area as oppose to the led where it is a bit harder to remove all the heat while leaving the much needed humidity and c02. I have the CMH dialed in and have done great pushing it to the limit so hopefully I can get that extra little bit that most claim can be achieved with led over cmh. I look forward to seeing what this can achieve in the right conditions.
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Well sort of. The radiant heat is a completely different animal but the CMH is air cooled and easier to directly pipe out of the area as oppose to the led where it is a bit harder to remove all the heat while leaving the much needed humidity and c02. I have the CMH dialed in and have done great pushing it to the limit so hopefully I can get that extra little bit that most claim can be achieved with led over cmh. I look forward to seeing what this can achieve in the right conditions.
You need to mount that driver outside the tent, my guy. That'll help a bunch more.
 
I know I was looking at making stand offs for the driver's to be flipped upside down and making easier access to the adjustment potentiometers but then I was thinking why bother when I can move the damned things out of the area. Those type of connectors I don't know who makes them I guess I'll have to do some research and find a way to extend them
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
I know I was looking at making stand offs for the driver's to be flipped upside down and making easier access to the adjustment potentiometers but then I was thinking why bother when I can move the damned things out of the area. Those type of connectors I don't know who makes them I guess I'll have to do some research and find a way to extend them
They're most likely DC barrel jacks???5.5X2.1/2.5mm

You'd need to be sure which, but Amaz0n has a plethora of those kind of extensions.
 
Nope not even connectors they are water tight junctions in the wiring. It goes from a standard wall plug nema 5-15p then 8 feet of cable to a water tight splitter then to each driver. From the driver's to each end of the quantum board. It's as simple as a junction x2 and extension x2 I just need to find the right gauge cable. Anyone know where to get 17 awg 2 conductor wire for LED drivers??? I bet I can use similar but I would like to keep it the same as the diameter is important for the ip67 rating on the board connection.
 
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Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Nope not even connectors they are water tight junctions in the wiring. It goes from a standard wall plug nema 5-15p then 8 feet of cable to a water tight splitter then to each driver. From the driver's to each end of the quantum board. It's as simple as a junction x2 and extension x2 I just need to find the right gauge cable. Anyone know where to get 17 awg 2 conductor wire for LED drivers??? I bet I can use similar but I would like to keep it the same as the diameter is important for the ip67 rating on the board connection.
Lol 18g or 16g if you're worried will work perfectly fine.
Home Depot has 2color(red/white)thermostat wire that's in a thick brown wire jacket. You can buy it by the foot at the store.


Or just order something online if ya want.
 

PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
Please do not go above the manufacturers wattage rating, especially if your ambient climbs...... They built it and stress tested it hopefully?, so follow the advice .
 
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diyled

Well-Known Member
That isnt a dimmer on the XLG drivers.

Ridiculous that they would supply XLG drivers without knowing the functions.
 
Please do not go above the manufacturers wattage rating, especially if your ambient climbs...... They built it and stress tested it hopefully?, so follow the advice .
If I do go beyond the wattage they have it set at it won't be too much beyond. I want this light to last and I was doing the math and pushing these lm301bs too far isn't good for lifespan. 484.4 watts is .4 per diode. That is about as far as most people push them. I don't think I will go beyond that. I'm new to LED so it's going to be a learning process. I'm coming from CMH and I love the color rendering and penetration but the power consumption is what was killing me.
 
They do dim but according to the manufacturer they don't dim up. You can tell they need a better Chinese to English translator. The drivers have two potentiometers on them. They don't recommend going beyond the 456 watts that it should be adjusted to from factory. I never took a base reading and I don't recall moving the dimmer very far so maybe they actually have a higher rating. I see a very similar light that has the same amount of diodes that pulls 480 from the wall. Then another I found that pulls 500. I'm not going to drive mine beyond 500 that's the limit I'm going with unless I find more people using them at higher watts.
 
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