DIY with Quantum Boards
- Thread starter robincnn
- Start date
PJ Diaz
Well-Known Member
Yeah a 4x4. I get OCD like that sometimes too, but honestly the orientation of the square makes little difference. I like that I can have tall plants and short in the space and light both heights well. I just harvested one plant, so moved one of the QB96's from a corner of the tent to the middle. I really like the flexibility more than the OCD factor.
Humple
Well-Known Member
I applaud you on overcoming your OCD for the sake of pragmatism! I should probably do that more often.
RamenToppings
Member
your plants look healthy and ready to put out
PJ Diaz
Well-Known Member
Thanks. I still have my flowering tent 3/4 full for at least a week or two tho, so can't really move them. Once this wedding cake is done, I'll have room to move them in..
CompassionateLettuce
New Member
Hello, what would be your suggestions, how many boards, heatsinks etc, wanted to do the 288 RSpec, for optimizing a 4 x 8 space, veg and flower? Wondering if this would be an adequate space and light coverage for 9-12 plants, lst or scrog
CompassionateLettuce
New Member
Hello, would this rig cover a 4 x 8 veg through flower?
CompassionateLettuce
New Member
What would you reccomend for a 4 x 8 humple using a 288 or qb96?
Thank you
StayHungry
Member
I’ve built 4 QB288 V2 doubles each ran with a MeanWell XLG-240-M-AB and I’m looking to dim it since at 36” it’s to intense for my plants. Am I ok with wiring a 50k Ohm pot?
Isawthelight
Well-Known Member
You can run four Far Red Initiator pucks using this 30v-dc-power-supply and three of these dc power splitter cables. This is recommended by Rapid LED. The pucks can run on a voltage greater than 12v.Anyone know the max current rating in milliamps for these far red pucks from rapid Led ?
The voltage is 12v but I’m wanting to run a few of them off one driver so I need to know the max current.
They’re rated at 7 wattts and 12v so I’m coming up with 583 milliamps. Anyone can verify ?
PJ Diaz
Well-Known Member
I'm in a 4x4, so you would likely want double that.
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
Did you spend a few minutes splaying the pins like I suggested? It's not hard. Just use yuh finguhs.So far, so good with the Elite 96 board, running on the 133mm pre drilled heatsink, on a HLG-120H-54A driver.
The room it hangs in, runs at 80+ F.
I managed to keep the heatsink measurement under 50C(cheapo IR gun) up to 110W draw(Kill-a-watt) without dedicated fan pointage.
The driver itself, when cranked up to full nuts, draws near 170W with a single Elite 96.
To keep the heatsink temps( cheapo IR gun, shot down the middle, multiple shots fired) below 60C a dedicated fan was needed, sitting right on top of the pins.
I was assured the pre drilled holes, below the board, were of no consequence, by appropriate authorities.
So, what I concluded in my marginally haphazard testing, is that an Elite 96 board, can run within reasonably acceptable temps, on a 133mm COB pre-drilled heatsink, up to 110W draw, in a 80F room, passively.....
Hello fellow Quantum Board users. If you have a moment, I could use a little insight using my new Q.B. 288 rspec. I have been living on a 36ft boat for about 25 years and have always had a small personal grow in the bilge of the boat. Not having much space I fashioned a grow area in a 31 gallon galvanized garbage can. Over the years I have had used 150w MH/HSP and more recently a 150w CMH in this container. The can is only 28" tall and 20" dia. so I have been LSTing the pants to keep them as short as possible. Using the bottom half of a 5 gal bucket for the pot only gives me about 20" to the bulb. The CMH bulb allowed me get to get the pants within 6-7 inches without any light or heat damage.
I know growing is all about the ENVIRONMENT !, That said- I have little control over mine. It is what it is. During the summer months. the grow gets a little hotter than I like so I looked into the newer LED offerings. The Q.B.'s were so talked up, it did not take me long to order up the 288rspec board. I knew it was overkill for my small area but I figured I could always turn it down a bit to maintain a reasonable temperature. Over the weekend, I used a LUX app on my phone to compare the CMH and Q.B. at different heights. All I can say is WOW. This Q.B. kicks the CMH's butt big time. Even when the Q.B. is turned down to 60W it is still has twice the LUX of the CMH.
My biggest question is - Is a Q.B. used at say 135w at 20 " from the plants giving the plants better light than a Q.B. at 50w at 8-10" ?
I think you get the idea of what I am asking. Am I in trouble here ??? Best to stay with the CMH ?
Thanks for looking---- Snafu
I know growing is all about the ENVIRONMENT !, That said- I have little control over mine. It is what it is. During the summer months. the grow gets a little hotter than I like so I looked into the newer LED offerings. The Q.B.'s were so talked up, it did not take me long to order up the 288rspec board. I knew it was overkill for my small area but I figured I could always turn it down a bit to maintain a reasonable temperature. Over the weekend, I used a LUX app on my phone to compare the CMH and Q.B. at different heights. All I can say is WOW. This Q.B. kicks the CMH's butt big time. Even when the Q.B. is turned down to 60W it is still has twice the LUX of the CMH.
My biggest question is - Is a Q.B. used at say 135w at 20 " from the plants giving the plants better light than a Q.B. at 50w at 8-10" ?
I think you get the idea of what I am asking. Am I in trouble here ??? Best to stay with the CMH ?
Thanks for looking---- Snafu
ThatKidiscrying
Active Member
I was wanting to hardwire them. I’ve since moved on to something else.
Humple
Well-Known Member
Firstly, I'd love to see pics of your grow space. Big fan of micro-grows. But if you're not comfortable posting pics, that's no problem and I totally get it.
Sounds like you're asking if the spectrum will shift? My understanding is that there is a very slight spectrum shift when comparing full power to low power, but that shouldn't make a difference for your grow.
ThatKidiscrying
Active Member
Ac amps are the same as D C amps.
so if you’re pulling 2.1 amps at the wall then you’ll be close to 2100ma DC at the drivers output. Whatever the driver eats will be subtracted from the dC side, the driver is not 100% efficient.
Barristan Whitebeard
Well-Known Member
Hey @ThatKidiscrying, hope you are doing well.
There may be certain situations where AC amps and DC amps line up but this is often Not the case.
Rough Example: Let's say we're using 120 Volts Alternating Current for our electrical source.
4 QB 132 V2 in series on an HLG-320H-C2100A.
144 volts for 4 boards x 2.1 amps = 302.4 watts at the boards.
You'll likely draw about 10% more wattage at the wall( this drivers efficiency at 115 VAC is 90% or slightly higher ).
302.4 watts x 1.1 = 332.64 watts.
Now to find the AC draw in amps, divide by 120 VAC.
332.64 watts/120 volts AC = 2.772 AC amps.
.In this example you can see that AC amps and DC amps are not the same. In other builds, especially parallel builds, you will find that AC amps and DC amps are even more disparate. Alternately, in some series builds, the AC and DC amps may end up being very close if your AC voltage and DC voltage are close to the same number.
ThatKidiscrying
Active Member
So which has more power, 10amps AC or 10Amps DC if the voltage is the same ?
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
Oh man, I completely agree. I'll use 4 ratchet ropes over those stupid things any day.
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
For a so glue driver, use a 100K ohm pot with a 10K resistor on the + dim lead. For 2 drivers on one power cord, same goes but with 50k ohm and 5k Resistor.