Help with HLG-600W-54A

[Armyofsprout]

Hey guys I’m running 4 QB288 rspec boards and I bought the meanwell HLG-600-54A version. Just trying to make sure 54v is correct for the 4 boards. I don’t know how to calculate voltage and amps and all that, I’m not an electrician I can just build things lol. I incorrectly bought the 48V version before and I can’t return it and it keeps going out and I have to send it jn for repair possibly due to being under or overpowered for the boards and I can’t keep dealing with that issue. It’s a bummer because I was going to sell the 48v version and then it went out before I could do so.

I bought the A type over the B type because I didn’t want to install a dimmer and I know the A type has built in potentiometers. Don’t the built in pots of the A type do the same thing as a dimmer? If not what’s the difference? Also how can I know if the pots are correctly set at 54V or not?

help a guy out here.

 

[Armyofsprout]

Anyone?

 

[pulpoinspace]

54v is correct. you need to make sure the boards are wired in parallel not series.

the internal potentiometers should be set to max when the driver ships unless you've messed with em. you'd pop the little rubber screw cover off and use a tiny #1 philips to turn the plastic screw to adjust the pot.

 

[Armyofsprout]

54v is correct. you need to make sure the boards are wired in parallel not series.

the internal potentiometers should be set to max when the driver ships unless you've messed with em. you'd pop the little rubber screw cover off and use a tiny #1 philips to turn the plastic screw to adjust the pot.

Yeah I had the 48V wired in parallel so all I have to do is basically drop that back in and reconnect the wires and should be good.

 

[HolyAngel]

Yeah I had the 48V wired in parallel so all I have to do is basically drop that back in and reconnect the wires and should be good.

The 600w driver is set to 600w out of the box.
The VO pot is set to 54 out of the box(technically this varies depending on load and current) do NOT mess with this pot unless you know what you're doing.

The IO pot is your dimmer, its not maxed out of the box but set to get you 600w. It can go a little higher or it can go 50% lower. Do not over tighten this pot either way or you'll strip it and then no dimmer.

So yeah, just swap the 48v driver with the 54a and you'll be good. I use a 320H-54A for my two rspecs boards and its great.

 

[HolyAngel]

on a side note, at full wattage, the 48v driver just can't push enough. Those boards require 54v at full wattage. IThe 48v would work dimmed but that's it. The driver itself is likely fine and would work for some other boards.

 

[Armyofsprout]

on a side note, at full wattage, the 48v driver just can't push enough. Those boards require 54v at full wattage. IThe 48v would work dimmed but that's it. The driver itself is likely fine and would work for some other boards.

yeah I wish someone would’ve explained to me that the 48V only works when dimmed with those boards. Because they worked fine when I had them dimmed and then when I made the mistake of maxing our both potsthe power supply died within 3 days. Now hopefully they’ll repair it.

I’m gonna build another setup in a 4x4 and I might get 3 Rspec QB-288 boards. Would I be able to run these three boards in parallel with the 48V and keep it dimmed?

or can you tell me what boards the 48V would work with just fine if I ran 4 boards ?

 

[Armyofsprout]

If I’m reading this chart correctly does this mean that the qb288 (non rspec) version can work with anywhere from 45-50vdc?

so if I can dial in at 48V and and around 100W per board then it should be fine with these correct? Just reallly trying to avoid buying another power supply for my new setup since I should be getting this one fixed. But I guess I need a voltmeter because idk what it’s set at anymore.

 

[HolyAngel]

If its a 600h-48a, you can do 3 rspec boards but you have to be careful as you'd risk frying those boards if you give them anything close to max wattage from that driver. That driver pushes 12.5 amps and the boards can only take 3 each and you'll likely need/want fans on the boards at 3amps.
--
yeah that 48a would power the regular 288's just fine, 4 of em would work perfect.

 

[Armyofsprout]

If its a 600h-48a, you can do 3 rspec boards but you have to be careful as you'd risk frying those boards if you give them anything close to max wattage from that driver. That driver pushes 12.5 amps and the boards can only take 3 each and you'll likely need/want fans on the boards at 3amps.
--
yeah that 48a would power the regular 288's just fine, 4 of em would work perfect.

Ill probably just do that. Cheaper anyways

 

[Armyofsprout]

I just know something fried on my 48V because the power led doesn’t come on any more no matter what

 

[HolyAngel]

I just know something fried on my 48V because the power led doesn’t come on any more no matter what

oh weird, maybe it was something from messing with the vo pot. LedGardener on youtube has some good videos on how the drivers and pots work in parallel and series that are pretty helpful.

 

[Armyofsprout]

oh weird, maybe it was something from messing with the vo pot. LedGardener on youtube has some good videos on how the drivers and pots work in parallel and series that are pretty helpful.

Yeah same thing happened before and I had to send it in for repair and they fixed it. Maybe a blown cap. I didn’t know what I did wrong before so I’m glad you cleared some things up for me. I figured both pots were ok to mess around with to dim.

 

[Armyofsprout]

Funny I’m actually watching his videos now

 

[Rocket Soul]

If I’m reading this chart correctly does this mean that the qb288 (non rspec) version can work with anywhere from 45-50vdc?

so if I can dial in at 48V and and around 100W per board then it should be fine with these correct? Just reallly trying to avoid buying another power supply for my new setup since I should be getting this one fixed. But I guess I need a voltmeter because idk what it’s set at anymore.

Thats the V2 boards, not the rspec. The 48A type drivers can run some quantum boaards on low but youll have to tweak the voltage.
Voltage adjustment is usefull for securing a max power on your boards by setting an upper voltage limit. Try this: make sure all your boards are running at ok temps and amps. Usually for running at 150ish watts each active cooling or good airflow around the board is recommended. With all boards running adjust voltage upwards. You might see some light increase. Now adjust voltage downwards until you see light dimming, go back and leave sorta right about where it starts dimming. You might have to play with it a little, or use a power meter. This way you establish a max voltage which is matched by your desired max amps. This means if something fails the driver wont over power the remaining boards.

 

[Armyofsprout]

Thats the V2 boards, not the rspec. The 48A type drivers can run some quantum boaards on low but youll have to tweak the voltage.
Voltage adjustment is usefull for securing a max power on your boards by setting an upper voltage limit. Try this: make sure all your boards are running at ok temps and amps. Usually for running at 150ish watts each active cooling or good airflow around the board is recommended. With all boards running adjust voltage upwards. You might see some light increase. Now adjust voltage downwards until you see light dimming, go back and leave sorta right about where it starts dimming. You might have to play with it a little, or use a power meter. This way you establish a max voltage which is matched by your desired max amps. This means if something fails the driver wont over power the remaining boards.

Yeah I was talking bout the V2 288 not the rspec

 

[GBAUTO]

I think the V2 lm301b diode string has a higher Vf compared to the V1 boards with the lm561c chips.