The far red thread

PJ Diaz

Well-Known Member
This exact statement is what leads me to believe the general consensus does not have it exactly right. Is it good enough to work? Yes. IMO what is point of adding the infrastructure to for red/fr, uv why not use it for a greater portion of the day. Adverse effect would be the indication of too many watts, too many photons.
There are studies which indicate that a rest period to UV light is beneficial, as opposed to constant UV. Basically the plants build up a resistance to UV light without the rest periods, and the desired effects become mitigated.
 

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
There are studies which indicate that a rest period to UV light is beneficial, as opposed to constant UV. Basically the plants build up a resistance to UV light without the rest periods, and the desired effects become mitigated.
However it I believe ther is evidence to support using at bod and eod as well as mid day. Intenisity and ratio the sun does not simply turn them on off but there is a gradient and ratio to orher specra, this varries based on geography and time of year of course.
 

hybridway2

Amare Shill
Use the bulb all damn day in flower. It may not last long but it certainly will provide you the flower back to buy 100 more
 

KK26

Well-Known Member
CREE XP-E2 730nm strips, can you get them in the UK?

Have to be strips and would be great 1mtr in lengths

Just a stab in the dark question regarding an idea I have.
 

hybridway2

Amare Shill
That was my first inclination as well, but the statement by HLG saying not to do it because it will cause stretch has me wondering.
That's only there because they are not included in the boards yet IMO. No worries. It will cause stretching on small plants & the kind you want in flower whole time.
 

PJ Diaz

Well-Known Member
However it I believe ther is evidence to support using at bod and eod as well as mid day. Intenisity and ratio the sun does not simply turn them on off but there is a gradient and ratio to orher specra, this varries based on geography and time of year of course.
Sure, but UV is also strongest during the mid day hours, with it's peak at noontime. Adding UV during the bod/eod wouldn't seem to be mimicking nature.

 

Diddy147

Well-Known Member
I hate the type of lazy post im about to make lol. BUT Can someone give a rough table/guide as to how much/how long deep red/far red ?
Something like
X watts white light - y watts Far red - z watts Deep red
Either stuck on the 1st post which could be edited or updated or even a "Far Red Conclusions Table" thread.

No i can't do this myself as im far too stupid soz.
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
I hate the type of lazy post im about to make lol. BUT Can someone give a rough table/guide as to how much/how long deep red/far red ?
Something like
X watts white light - y watts Far red - z watts Deep red
Either stuck on the 1st post which could be edited or updated or even a "Far Red Conclusions Table" thread.

No i can't do this myself as im far too stupid soz.
Try for example (of white watts) 10-20% reds (ideally a mix of 630 and 660, and make sure that its the output your calculating over, not the electrical watts in) and then you match 660 to 730 on 4:1 basis, keeping far redon separate channel.
 

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
No idea. I'm partially color blind. You tell me.
Well guessing for you its some form of off grey.
Light is refracted as it travels through the atmosphere. This is why at night we can see stars that are actually below the horizon. Shorter wavelength light has a greater angle of refraction than longer wavelengths. As the sun sets spectrum is influenced by this phenomenon ROYGBV longer-shorter.
 

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
Try for example (of white watts) 10-20% reds (ideally a mix of 630 and 660, and make sure that its the output your calculating over, not the electrical watts in) and then you match 660 to 730 on 4:1 basis, keeping far redon separate channel.
I know this is also standard but for simplicity sake I am beginning to believe seperating channels that are as close together as red and fr is not really practical for most. Not sure the benefits are diminished enough to justify the effort? Having them on a single channel with the ability to seperate in the future if desired would probably be more economical and as I belive it is more important to have the color than the exact ratio that is perfect I think this offers a better starting point for the hobbyist grower.
 

Diddy147

Well-Known Member
My set up at the moment is 400w of white kingbrite board led 301b. I have 28w of far red coming on for 10 min about 2 min before lights out. I have this on a small driver on its own dig timer/ I also have a deep red strip with similar output 12 deep red leds giving a total of 28w.....but don't use that yet as i was concerned about ratios ect. The CRI of my whites is 80 and temp is 3000.....again from reading this makes a huge difference. I DO want to take advantage of the end of day sleep effect but i am also interested in overall spectrum with the added deep red.
so 20% of my set up would be in the region of 80w
so im looking at approx 60w of 660 and 15 w of 730....hmm back to the drawing board. I would be quite happy to have them all on their own drivers driven by their own timer - i have zero issues setting that up.
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
My set up at the moment is 400w of white kingbrite board led 301b. I have 28w of far red coming on for 10 min about 2 min before lights out. I have this on a small driver on its own dig timer/ I also have a deep red strip with similar output 12 deep red leds giving a total of 28w.....but don't use that yet as i was concerned about ratios ect. The CRI of my whites is 80 and temp is 3000.....again from reading this makes a huge difference. I DO want to take advantage of the end of day sleep effect but i am also interested in overall spectrum with the added deep red.
so 20% of my set up would be in the region of 80w
so im looking at approx 60w of 660 and 15 w of 730....hmm back to the drawing board. I would be quite happy to have them all on their own drivers driven by their own timer - i have zero issues setting that up.
i think your way over for amount of far red. If you read back last three or four pages i put up the formula for how to calculate times for end of day treatment. i wouldnt add more than a few percent during lights on. Unless you have the photo red added aswell.
 

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
My set up at the moment is 400w of white kingbrite board led 301b. I have 28w of far red coming on for 10 min about 2 min before lights out. I have this on a small driver on its own dig timer/ I also have a deep red strip with similar output 12 deep red leds giving a total of 28w.....but don't use that yet as i was concerned about ratios ect. The CRI of my whites is 80 and temp is 3000.....again from reading this makes a huge difference. I DO want to take advantage of the end of day sleep effect but i am also interested in overall spectrum with the added deep red.
so 20% of my set up would be in the region of 80w
so im looking at approx 60w of 660 and 15 w of 730....hmm back to the drawing board. I would be quite happy to have them all on their own drivers driven by their own timer - i have zero issues setting that up.
Again I am using this post to explain my perspective.

You will be increasing the energy incident on the canopy at bod/eod by doing it this way. Lacking adjustment capability like in meanwell d series drivers I feel this approach to bod/eod is flawed.

Relavent to the post, IMO you are too hot on the red regardless if you are going to run them all day or just at eod. Half the watts.
 

Diddy147

Well-Known Member
Im like 1 week from end of flower to be honest. I will just switch them off for now and re-work the my setup out with a clear mind lol. Thanks for the advice guys. Will take it on board and make needed adjustments/new driver ect.
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
Again I am using this post to explain my perspective.

You will be increasing the energy incident on the canopy at bod/eod by doing it this way. Lacking adjustment capability like in meanwell d series drivers I feel this approach to bod/eod is flawed.

Relavent to the post, IMO you are too hot on the red regardless if you are going to run them all day or just at eod. Half the watts.
half the far reds? i agree especially if its all from the same strip, spread wont be right and will lead to uneven cannopy and stretch. On baking things into the same channel, yeah sure but it seems almost harder to get that balanced. unless you do a custom strips with a set rate of far red, photo and sixthirty reds. but then your loosing the ability to do eod and if you wanna up far red to stretch out some of those indicas that get too compact. but definitly, photo and sixthirty red can and should go on the same strip. and ninety cri white eliminates the need for sixthirty supplement as they allready peak around there.
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
Im like 1 week from end of flower to be honest. I will just switch them off for now and re-work the my setup out with a clear mind lol. Thanks for the advice guys. Will take it on board and make needed adjustments/new driver ect.
hey if its working then nevermind :D did you see any extra strech under your far red strip? or faster ripening?
 
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