The far red thread

Rocket Soul said:
hey if its working then nevermind :D did you see any extra strech under your far red strip? or faster ripening?
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Lol now you will spit your drink over the screen...but at the time in my hazy head I thought that the amount of far red might be too strong.....so i stuck it in top corner of tent sort of shining down over the canopy at an angle...now that you mention it one of the plants is a good 8 inches taller that the rest....there was me thinking different pheno...when it was probably me murdering it all the time lol.
 
Diddy147 said:
Lol now you will spit your drink over the screen...but at the time in my hazy head I thought that the amount of far red might be too strong.....so i stuck it in top corner of tent sort of shining down over the canopy at an angle...now that you mention it one of the plants is a good 8 inches taller that the rest....there was me thinking different pheno...when it was probably me murdering it all the time lol.
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just use much less time. people been quoting fifteen minutes for years due to mechanical timers not going further down. But its more like two minutes depending on wattage. go back a few pages theres an equation which will probably put you at less than a minute with that much watts. also remember; at lights off theres no other light so far red have a very strong effect on streching and shadow avoidance syndrome which can do a number on yield.
 
Rocket Soul said:
half the far reds? i agree especially if its all from the same strip, spread wont be right and will lead to uneven cannopy and stretch. On baking things into the same channel, yeah sure but it seems almost harder to get that balanced. unless you do a custom strips with a set rate of far red, photo and sixthirty reds. but then your loosing the ability to do eod and if you wanna up far red to stretch out some of those indicas that get too compact. but definitly, photo and sixthirty red can and should go on the same strip. and ninety cri white eliminates the need for sixthirty supplement as they allready peak around there.
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Half of all red as a starting point, might even need less.
Example- I run 600W mixed white soup, 2700-4000K cobs, 2x GLA uv boards, and a splash of uva, b and c (mitigates stretch to some extent). 80W (4 cobs) of a 50-50 mix of 660 and 730 on the same channel was too much, 60W is about right for my situation. They run all day and 15min bod and eod. At 80 there was gangly growth toward the location of the reds (most of my lights are vertical I only have 6 of 26 white cobs overhead).
I don't believe I lost the ability to do bod/eod because I do both. Put them to bed and wake them up means activation of the opposing photo receptors. Seperate channels would allow for the reversal of the 2 but I am just not sure it is worth it. It is a balance between mimicing nature and whatever other host of factors (cost, time, effort....)
 
I have tried and am working on the uv bod/eod but at the moment I am looking to make the indoor garden steady state and focus on the outdoor garden.
 
Had to check I am running 10 min bod/eod #stoner
/Light Controller
switch(x){
case 0:
if ((TimeCalc >= (OnTimeCalc + (reducelighttime/2)) - 10) & (TimeCalc < (OffTimeCalc - (reducelighttime/2)) + 10)){ //sunrise/sunset
switch(RedFarRedStatus){
case 1:
digitalWrite(Cooling, LOW);
delay(2000);
digitalWrite(RedFarRed, LOW);
delay(2000);

break;

LOW is on BTW
 
SSGrower said:
Well guessing for you its some form of off grey.
Light is refracted as it travels through the atmosphere. This is why at night we can see stars that are actually below the horizon. Shorter wavelength light has a greater angle of refraction than longer wavelengths. As the sun sets spectrum is influenced by this phenomenon ROYGBV longer-shorter.
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Naw, I can see colors, not just grey. The term "color blind" is typically somewhat of a misnomer. I have trouble seeing green and red in certain shades. Things like purple and aqua are sometimes tricky for me in different situations. I've been able to counter my color disability pretty well through the years though. I used to have a job as a color offset printer, and later in life as a lighting designer. It's not that tricky really to match like colors together, but I likely see them differently than most, and have difficulty naming the colors sometimes. Reds and purples at the start/end of the day are often more difficult for me to clearly identify, but that's not to say that I don't appreciate an intense red or purple sunset either. Anyway, I digress..
 
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hybridway2 said:
Why bother. Its a Far Red Thread. No need to mention names. RocketSoul pointed out the one main company i would like to credit but have never used & always seam to forget the name. That company has shared test results from their studies. They offer at least x6 tailored spectrums as well as interweb Geographic location live spectrums to closest match existing spectrums around the world.
Responding to the type of questions or insinuations Joe tosses around gets people upset & apparently threads shut down. They are also not true & depicted mostly through the eyes of those looking to start trouble.
I study spectrums in my garden.
Any Company that offers up lights for Testing or ShowCasing know they are only going to get honest reviews & comparisons through my eyes, photos & weigh ins. These comments are then hopefully used to provide insight to the manufacturer as to what can help in future builds. I offer these suggestions w/o prejudice or Brand Loyalty in mind. Only growers bennifit.
I have offered "Game Changing" info to HLG, Aussie High-Lights & Amare. What they or other companies do with it is on them.
Far Red is an essential part of any growing spectrum aside from germination.
You guys here Should start a thread on the "Cyan Gap". Another long studied & proven beneficial photoreceptor missing in white LEDs manufacturer for the human eye.
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So if U were to build a perfect spectrum(using 630nm,660nm, 730nm and and kalvin or cri what would it look like
 
PJ Diaz said:
Naw, I can see colors, not just grey. The term "color blind" is typically somewhat of a misnomer. I have trouble seeing green and red in certain shades. Things like purple and aqua are sometimes tricky for me in different situations. I've been able to counter my color disability pretty well through the years though. I used to have a job as a color offset printer, and later in life as a lighting designer. It's not that tricky really to match like colors together, but I likely see them differently than most, and have difficulty naming the colors sometimes. Reds and purples at the start/end of the day are often more difficult for me to clearly identify, but that's not to say that I don't appreciate an intense red or purple sunset either. Anyway, I digress..
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Note: If driving through Kansas or Texas traffic lights may be rotated 90 deg.
I was debating wether or not you were being lazy. I have a question for you. Can you tell when a different white balance setting is used on photos?
 
weed-whacker said:
So if U were to build a perfect spectrum(using 630nm,660nm, 730nm and and kalvin or cri what would it look like
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What ever you want it to be. Any of the umpteen spectrums available with the touch of 630 + 730. That's not my idea of a perfect spectrum but will grow well. 35-5k. Cri dependent on far red desire id imagine. Gotta remember, i don't build the lights & do not own a spectrometer.
 
SSGrower said:
Note: If driving through Kansas or Texas traffic lights may be rotated 90 deg.
I was debating wether or not you were being lazy. I have a question for you. Can you tell when a different white balance setting is used on photos?
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Absolutely, but I can't necessarily name the difference in color.

In the pic below, I can see that there are different color dots, but I guess there is a number embedded the dots, which I can't identify:

color-blind-test.png
 
PJ Diaz said:
Absolutely, but I can't necessarily name the difference in color.

In the pic below, I can see that there are different color dots, but I guess there is a number embedded the dots, which I can't identify:

color-blind-test.png
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I'm also partially red-green "blind" (more like a weakness tbh) but I can make out the green 81. It'#s because of the color-change from the monitor. In school as a child I didn't see any number back then...
 
Kassiopeija said:
I'm also partially red-green "blind" (more like a weakness tbh) but I can make out the green 81. It'#s because of the color-change from the monitor. In school as a child I didn't see any number back then...
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Humple said:
Pretty sure that's a 74, not an 81. At least that's what I see, and as far as I know, I don't suffer from any colorblindness.
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I think thst is part of the test to dtermine degree of colorbindness. Look more closely at the size of the dots. This may actually be a demonstration of why I use so many cobs to cover an area relative to others. Angle of incidence, diffusion and lastly unquantifyably interference.

Edit - I see 74 and have no daignosed colorblindness.
 
74 here. I can see how Kassiopeija gets the "1", but there is not enough for me to see the tail end/bottom of an "8".

How much far red for end of day has been spelt out quite clearly elsewhere in this thread.
But what about, as part of the always-on component of a light? Surely we cannot look at it in isolation, or as paired with deep red. We must consider the other constituents as part of the sum.

Less important for those going the traditional route with rooms and tents. But what about growers flowering in cabinets or on shelves? Mainstream led light products for growers favour those without height constraints. They get to reap the benefits of added red and far red.

How does phytochrome photoequilibria factor into the equation when there are different levels of blue and green? And can the growers interested in even compact growth harness added red and far red, whilst tempering with higher blue and green?
 
Kassiopeija said:
lol no shit I thought I saw something XD ... I looked a second time and still see the 1 very clear, and 8 yes what else could it be? Goddamn these people must have tomatoes on their eyes LMFAO :bigjoint:
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the dots needed to see the 4 instead of the 1 are a darker olive green, maybe that makes the diff. for you?
the 7 is hard for me too as it have this for me unexpected tail.

far red distribution is probably quite tricky to measure and evaluate when we consider it penetrates so well while the other wavelenghs dont.
 
hybridway2 said:
What ever you want it to be. Any of the umpteen spectrums available with the touch of 630 + 730. That's not my idea of a perfect spectrum but will grow well. 35-5k. Cri dependent on far red desire id imagine. Gotta remember, i don't build the lights & do not own a spectrometer.
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Right
But approximately in %

Say we are looking to do a 3*3

So we figure 35w per sq ft to get 315w....

Now what? 20% red? Ok

So we decide to take a elg 240, and an elg 75

240 runs base spectrum (perhaps 3500k)
And the 75 is for reds...

Assume U a keep it simple and just run a string of cost effective older gen cree xp or whatever

And U can choose whatever combo...

So 630 is the best spend for photosynthesis yeah?
But 660 second and lacking big time right in the 3500k

And 730 to speed up flower?
What ratios?

....
I'm thinking 5:3:1 ratios of 660, 630, 730

Explain why I'm wrong please

(Seriously before I build the thing and wish I had done more research)

Everyone welcome to chime in
 
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