MrHowardMarks' experienced grower journal.

MrHowardMarks

Well-Known Member
Yeah, I wonder what kind of results they get from a 4 week flowering plant... Probably not too good.

It's best to cut a fresh growing shoot, in full veg condition, they are in the mode where they are ready to grow and produce roots. In flowering the hormones are all set for flowering, and it will have to revert to vegative growth in order to root. It takes a long time for it to actually root, and then it's going to struggle and be all funky looking as it goes back to vegative growth, lots of stress, I'd only do it as a last resort... Like it's the only plant left and you have to clone it to save the strain.

All my clones are looking good, only one fell over, no biggie, it was one that I was about to toss in the compost anyway, little tiny girl. It might pop back up, but I'm doubtful.

I usually find if they slump over, they aren't going to root.

A few more tips;

-Don't overwater the medium, moist, not wet.

-If you're using a clone dome, I blow into it twice a day, lift the lid a little, and blow in. (Free co2)

-Mist them with water once a day. The leaves take in water and transfer it to the rooting tip.

-they don't need much light to root. I get the best results with just one 40W flourescent cool blue 4ft tube. Right above the top of the dome. 24 hours.

I'm probably forgetting some shit that I do, it's just second nature to me, like flipping a light switch. But I think I covered it all.
 

MrHowardMarks

Well-Known Member
Huh, got home today and the little girl righted herself, looks like all the clones are growing strong. Everything else it looking great too, be taking a bunch of clones in the next few weeks. :mrgreen:
 

raiderman

Well-Known Member
how long does it take for clones to root? and is there any way you can tell on the outward appearance if they are rooting?also wat do you think about growing in those grow plastic grow bags , or do you think its an invitation for mold and bacteria?
 

MrHowardMarks

Well-Known Member
I've used the grow bags once, didn't like them, no mold or bacteria, but they'd be good for an outdoor crop or something.

If they look healthy and are growing and standing nice and tall, they are absorbing water. If they aren't doing anything, they are producing the hormones and are about to root, if they slump over, they aren't getting any water, and are likely to die.

My best advice is to not really do much to them, they will root on their own, overwatering and misting too much can hurt them, I get the best results by letting them be.
 

raiderman

Well-Known Member
thanx,i'll jus wait and see, to me this is quite a milestone i have been wanting to cross and be successful at.. bongsmilie
 

VictorVIcious

Well-Known Member
Reading the post from VV made me think of the switchplates I made for a serious grow I had, it might be of good use on this forum.

They're relatively inexpensive and easy to make;

You can run two hoods and two lights from one ballast on a 12/12 cycle, with a simple flip of a switch. BUT it has to be done manually.:? This isn't possible for a lot of people, flipping a switch on time every 12 hours means you can't leave the growroom for very long.

Think anyone would be interested??
Is this what you are waiting for?? I have viewed that circuit, some one posted it. Uses two dipole switches, one normally open, one normally closed, ballast runs constant?
When I planned the electric for my room, I really didn't know how the room would end up, so I just ran four circuits for each side of the room, there are sixteen receptacles on each wall. Experience has shown that having timers etc on a table behind your plants is not a good idea. Now that I have the room pretty much arranged the way it will stay for at least a few months there is a logical spot to build a control panel and my 200 amp service panel is in the work shop, 40 space box, using less than 20 right now. The cords that come on the cool tubes are long enough for me to place my lights were I need them. I always overbuild electric, 20 amp switches and receptacles, 12 wire, pigtail drops and work boxes, I had to pass inspection. I could deal with the 220 for lights if I were going to run 8 high powered lights I would just to make sure no one plugged them into the wrong outlets. I have discussed this with electricians, almost all restaurant equipment is 220, they don't agree that you will save money, it depends on how you are charged for power and the way they do it in the US, the savings doesn't justify the cost unless there is a quality difference. I looked at one ballast kit that will operate on 5 different voltages, it was about $190, much heavier than the 110 I have. VV
 

RaHa23

Active Member
are you fukin kidding me," this is theee man "the real man of canabis"
i just ordered 2pacs of mr.nices g13 hashplant sensi seeds, this is mr. nice himsef.this gonna be great.:weed:sorry for the outburst.
Enjoy the Mr. Nice!
It is one of my favorite strains.
Watch your humidity in the final weeks cos' it gets so hard you could get hurt by one!!!!!
One word of advice with Mr. Nice. at day 45 about 75% of your hairs will be orange. You have 2+ weeks to go from there.
 

RaHa23

Active Member
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I build these things myself, including the light startup sequence delay.
My advice to you guys that know AC and DC electronics is to get a GRAINGER catalog. They sell EVERYTHING and then some.
I use a regular timer that has a 12VDC power inverter plugged into it (so I can trigger AC relays without wasting more power). It actuates my main relay that is setup to a cascade type relay bank. Works like this:

Relay #1 Bank #1 triggers Low Voltage DC Delay Timer Relays (Relays #2-7 Bank #2) which all have random trigger times from 30 secs. to 5minutes...
These in turn trigger Relay Bank #3, which are hooked into special high current relays with a flip-flop logic (one relay on -the other matched relay goes off). These relays handle 30 Amps@ 120VAC and are actuated by 12VDC.
No sense in spending money on things you can build yourself.
I get my blowers from HVAC repair shops, for $20/$30 each.
I make my own carbon filters (with premium activated carbon from PetCo)
I make my own power boxes and timer setups.
I make my own CO2 systems, as you can set solenoid valves and regulators from Grainger as well.
 

RaHa23

Active Member
-----ON TOPIC-----

My seedling mix;
50% perlite
40% sphagnum moss
10% peat moss

Planting and watering; after the seed pops open, I plant in a 16oz solo cup with 4 holes cut in the bottom for drainage. I fill the cup with the soiless mix, and water the hell out of it with plain pHed water. Give it a good rinse. Then let the excess drain off.
I plant the seed a cm from the top of the soil line, taproot down, and put a little of the mix over it.
I like to use a clear SOLO cup so I can see when it is getting root bound.
I know roots do not like light but I find that 2x40W Flouros do not seem to harm them.
 

MrHowardMarks

Well-Known Member
Forget who it was, I'll rep them again, said "Plant the seeds in the clear cup, and put a opaque cup over it, 2 cup, that way you'll get a "clear-view" of the roots"


Damn, you should make a thread about how to make that 800 dollar ballast flip... I couldn't figure out how to run all my switches through a timed relay, just used some two pole switches...
 

raiderman

Well-Known Member
wen you flower and into 2nd week of flower, do you remove any side long branches? if room is not a problem is it best jus to let it grow?
 

raiderman

Well-Known Member
went to give the girls a small haircut.. yea some were trying to make it to the top, and removed some under brush that doesnt appear to do any good for the plant.thanx alot , most of the plants i do are kush type plants and do well from top to bottom, but i noticed a couple of g13 hp were stalking to the top like you said from the bottom.
 

MrHowardMarks

Well-Known Member
Yeah, the inner and lower branches/buds that don't get much light will just take away from the other buds. Trimming off useless buds for yield will transfer the energy to other parts of the plant.
 
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