modular overkill led striplight build

Sade

Well-Known Member
white light has not enough green for you? ok...
Recent studies may show that green light possibly helps with phytoclone cycle induced by 660nm and 730nm and preventing shade avoidance symptoms. Green light has been found that it actually Carrie's light through the canopy much better than other spectrums. The green light helps transfer small portions of B,FR,and Pr. 660nm and 730nm helps to open the stomata in the cellulose wall of leafs and the Green and blue help travel through shutting down everything. White alone doesn't carry enough green to successfully bring other photons through the canopy to shut down the rest of the stomata throughout the plant not those at canopy height.
 

sethimus

Well-Known Member
Recent studies may show that green light possibly helps with phytoclone cycle induced by 660nm and 730nm and preventing shade avoidance symptoms. Green light has been found that it actually Carrie's light through the canopy much better than other spectrums. The green light helps transfer small portions of B,FR,and Pr. 660nm and 730nm helps to open the stomata in the cellulose wall of leafs and the Green and blue help travel through shutting down everything. White alone doesn't carry enough green to successfully bring other photons through the canopy to shut down the rest of the stomata throughout the plant not those at canopy height.
wat
 

Sade

Well-Known Member
cobshopgrow, thanks for posting the spectrometer reading from your windowsill sunlight. Thanks for letting us all discuss these interesting things here. So many posts, too many to like.

Grotbags, Rocket and others have brought up points. I might be reading more into comments and observations because of personal slant or bent.
I feel that lighting intensity, temps, humidity work together like some weird hybrid between a playground seesaw and merry-go-round. If the balance between elements are somehow out of wack, the thing won't spin as smoothly.
We can see beautiful examples of vegging under a variety of lights. Something that stands out, is plants appearing lush hues of green. 5K -3K, and even blurple. Some with very low intensity levels, we also tend to see larger fan leaves on the plants.
But flowering is a much more intense use case. The plant system is working in a different mode, levels of hormone are different. The calls on the plant system are different. We can up the lighting intensity levels, but that does not drive photosynthesis at peak in isolation. Everything else has to be in balance.

I think we underestimate spectrum. But I think we make it a scapegoat for other factors. People basically only knew HPS for years, and look at what a crap spectrum that was. As for sunlight, cobshopgrow has posted the spectrum a few posts above. Naturally flowering outdoors, the level of reds does increase in ratio overall for a 12 hour day compared to summer solstice as the weeks go by . But it is nowhere as dramatic as you will see if you go compare examples from Fluence and Gavita compared to the HLG 550R and 650R. https://growershouse.com/blog/led-grow-light-ultimate-comparison-review-using-light-laboratory-data/

I might be imagining it, but think someone posted, suggesting that we should be revisting light intensity levels. I would agree. Shoot me. But line your ducks up first. VPD temps/humidity, co2, etc. I don't see how we can blame our tools when there are others out there using the same ones.
Oh absolutely man. So many people on GC having all these problems all cause by too high of lux. They have it in their head max watts are what is most important. After buying a lux finally have things dialing in. Now when I tell people they're lux is too high they literally freak out about dimming watts but don't understand they are causing more harm than good by not dimming. Also fuck it lower watts means more supplemental lighting. I want to get maybe 4x royal blue pucks for my next grow.
 

sethimus

Well-Known Member
again, how much green light are you talking about? because there is plenty in white light already. and then you add some red. and some blue, for the stomata. and then some green. and everything evens out again. gratulation. you just arrived where you started. /s
 

Sade

Well-Known Member
again, how much green light are you talking about? because there is plenty in white light already. and then you add some red. and some blue, for the stomata. and then some green. and everything evens out again. gratulation. you just arrived where you started. /s
The white is a very broad range. You would have to focus it in 530nm green then pulse of far red 730nm 15 min lights out. Now this isn't 100% yet but seems they keep going back and forth but that research seems to be most recent in 2017. Feels like much more plant science is being done since legalization of weed.
 

cobshopgrow

Well-Known Member
D54 theyre comming to their end.
smell is awesome and yield will be great.
going lower and lower with the intensity.
increasing UVA hours atm.
P1040057.JPG

the 2 on the left are clearly on their finishing line.
P1040059.JPG
P1040060.JPG
the 2 to the right seem to take a little longer.
Strain is 8-10 weeks, so could be everything.
the "runt" takes a bit longer but produce loads of buds and smells very gassy.
P1040058.JPG
 

cobshopgrow

Well-Known Member
lookin good, maybe tad too red stems if its not the genetics.
you give epsom, magnesium?
how much P? and have you backed up with the light a lil?

btw, i veg atm something under 3000k 80cri to see, nothing else 3000k.
as long i keep the light level under 200ppfd there is no stress, think in a few days she can take more.
its lanky genetics, sativa and she didnt had much space n light early in her life.
P1040061.JPG
 

DukeFluke

Well-Known Member
So, what I've done since we spoke last...

Flushed them through with a 3-4-5 flower feed plus chelated cacium, epsom salts, and some amino acids.
I've just got some super phosphate now to bring that up as well.

Turned the fan heater on and set it at 24c, then 22... it's not coming on at 22c because the temps in there are already at or above that, which is making me think temps maybe were not such an issue?

Bought a cheap little lux meter and took some readings. I'm at roughly 25000 lux with the driver dimmed a bit, which is 475 umol/m2 according to the conversion chart. That's at about 10 inches from the light I think (not entirely sure about that I'l have to check again)

They've perked up a lot. I mean a hell of a lot. But still I'll have to see how the overall growth goes because as you can se in those pic the purple stems I'm talking about.

What I might do with the next feed is bring the tap water ec from 0.2 to 0.4 with calcium, 0.6 with Phos, and 0.7 with mag and then put in 1.0 ec of the balanced flower feed for a total ec of 1.7

I think the key might be in the nutrients as well as the spectrum and the role they play with one another.
When you veg under a halide light you're not only putting in more blue, but also reducing the overall output. Maybe the combination of red light and more intense light is pushing the plant in a way which needs more phosphorus for energy transfer, calcium for building, and magnesium for synthesis... that's just a theory. I'll see how I go with it. But for now they're looking a lot better.
 

cobshopgrow

Well-Known Member
i have no magic receipt, but youre on the right track, glad to hear.
also think its intensity, or well by the plant converted red light which pushes all buttons of the plant.

if you can go above 25c with the temps i am quite sure they will like it
Your 3-4-5 could be ok P wise, i just went a little higher for veg and transition, maybe 10-15ppm,
EC 0.1 will be more.
while there is awide range for P, i think some ppl give always over 100ppm and like the results, so idk.
They do like epsom thats for sure, i just dont try to overdo it.

probalby the best would be if you enter your fertilizers in hydrobuddy and get some ppm values, thats no gurantue for a good mix, but it helps swimming in the nutrient sea.
 

Sade

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the information in other thread man. Yea they are literally riding the edge of light stress. Going to raise the lights tonight and turn down a tad.
 

grotbags

Well-Known Member
So, what I've done since we spoke last...

Flushed them through with a 3-4-5 flower feed plus chelated cacium, epsom salts, and some amino acids.
I've just got some super phosphate now to bring that up as well.

Turned the fan heater on and set it at 24c, then 22... it's not coming on at 22c because the temps in there are already at or above that, which is making me think temps maybe were not such an issue?

Bought a cheap little lux meter and took some readings. I'm at roughly 25000 lux with the driver dimmed a bit, which is 475 umol/m2 according to the conversion chart. That's at about 10 inches from the light I think (not entirely sure about that I'l have to check again)

They've perked up a lot. I mean a hell of a lot. But still I'll have to see how the overall growth goes because as you can se in those pic the purple stems I'm talking about.

What I might do with the next feed is bring the tap water ec from 0.2 to 0.4 with calcium, 0.6 with Phos, and 0.7 with mag and then put in 1.0 ec of the balanced flower feed for a total ec of 1.7

I think the key might be in the nutrients as well as the spectrum and the role they play with one another.
When you veg under a halide light you're not only putting in more blue, but also reducing the overall output. Maybe the combination of red light and more intense light is pushing the plant in a way which needs more phosphorus for energy transfer, calcium for building, and magnesium for synthesis... that's just a theory. I'll see how I go with it. But for now they're looking a lot better.
duke what medium are you in? soz if ive missed it, just 1.7 ec sounds mighty high. what stage you at?. is it a strain known for wanting high feed?.
 

DukeFluke

Well-Known Member
I know, it does. I usually go no higher than 1.0-1.2ec in coco and have advised that for a long time. But my last feed was 1.5 with the extra cal and mag added... plus the amino complex adds 0.1 ec across the board. If I add the Phosphate It'll be the same feed plus that added.

Forgot to add I used silicon as well but not enough to adjust the ec.

I've just flipped them into flower yesterday.
 

Moflow

Well-Known Member
@DukeFluke 472 umols/m2/s? Are they vegging or flowering now? How long are the lights on for? What spectrum are you using?
I.7 ec sounds very strong. Everyone's different though. I don't go above 1.3 ec.
This run my ec hasn't gone above 1.3
 

grotbags

Well-Known Member
I know, it does. I usually go no higher than 1.0-1.2ec in coco and have advised that for a long time. But my last feed was 1.5 with the extra cal and mag added... plus the amino complex adds 0.1 ec across the board. If I add the Phosphate It'll be the same feed plus that added.

Forgot to add I used silicon as well but not enough to adjust the ec.

I've just flipped them into flower yesterday.
whats the run off ec?. i would be at 1.0ec for just flipped...
 

DukeFluke

Well-Known Member
Sorry mate, 1.6-1.7 isn't the basic feed strength. That's with a boost of P, Ca, and Mg & Amino complex.
Then it's back down to 1.0-1.2

Before they perked up, it was 1.0ec of basic feed. They're looking a lot better after the last feed so I'll do it again but this time with the added P and then I'll see how they go.

yah it sounds like too little light for that high of an EC imo
Bear in mind they were looking quite shit before the changes in light and nutes. I think the combo of lower light and higher strength feed has got them looking much better. Tonight the leaves are even going bigger than previous. The purpling is the only issue now and I'll have to see how they go to see if there are any changes there.

What kind of Umols are you all getting with your lights and what is a good level for flower?

Turned up max, this 320w driver is putting down about 40'000 lux about 6 inches down from the light. Does this sound about right?
 
Last edited:
Top