parallel wiring led strips without wago's?

1212ham said:
From the link above. I think you need a little more voltage.

Drive Current (mA)Voltage (V)Eff(umoles/j50035.692.9770037.22.82100037.592.66140038.482.49
Click to expand...
This is for the teknik deep red i have the Cree XPG-3 Deep Red, although it’s only a 0,2V difference
 
gddg said:
Yes!

thanks for thinking along everybody!
tomorrow i Will reconnect everything maybe i missed something or a wire is damaged! I have a feeling that it has somthing to do with the multimeters!
Click to expand...
You did solder those connections after you twisted them together right? With the number of connections you have there just twisting and heatshrinking is pretty unreliable
 
Yes soldered everything! The multimeter/potmeter housing i used wago’s so i Will check this again tomorrow!
 
@gddg You want it in constant voltage mode. I skimmed through the datasheet, and unless I misunderstood something, dimming is only available in CC mode. So if you can figure out how to run it in CV mode you should be good.
Good luck brother ✌
 
Enanthate said:
Wire-resistance is simply irrelevant. Know your shit before you give advice. Doesn't matter if you coil up 20meters of wire, it will not be visible.
If you have some bullshit experience telling you that wire-length matters, you probably had poor connections. Forget 2 or 4 ohms making a difference, and that's more ohms than you should have in your entire wiring.
Click to expand...

Yes, you should know your shit before giving advice.
Ohms Law would be a good start! Wire resistance is NOT irrelevant!
That 480w driver puts out 13 amps. 13 amps through 2 ohms of wire resistance will give you a 26 volt drop across that wire! 13 amps x 26 volts would be 338 watts being dissipated in that 2 ohms of wire!
 
Boatguy said:
Still doesnt make sense that he cant run those strips any higher than he is. At .5a per strip that driver should be cranking along at just under 36v.
The .2a thing is strange
Click to expand...

There could be more than one issue, like a small voltage drop through a current shunt in the meter.
 
Please note that cutters voltage/amp numbbers are for tekniks 660 reds. Uv diodes and purple are usually a bit higher voltage than reds. That driver, with no voltage regulation wont reach enough voltage to feed those strips anymore current cause they run aa bit higher voltages. A version, or AB version, or xlg-h version should all work.
 
Enanthate said:
Yeah, I shouldn't have used 2ohms as an example. A wire doesn't have that kind of resistance, unless you're using steelwires or something.

The wire is in series with a bunch of diodes, though. Don't know if you missed that in your calculation, or if there is indeed only 10V drop in each strip.
Click to expand...
The diodes have nothing to due with calculating the voltage drop of the wire. If anyone is interested in better understanding, do a search for
"basic dc circuits".
 
Boatguy said:
Are you sure? The datasheet says overvoltage protection doesnt kick in till 43 to 49 v.
Click to expand...
its a B type driver no A or AB type.
"VOLTAGE ADJ. RANGE - Adjustable for A/AB/C-Type only " from the datasheet.
youre stuck with the constant current region the driver offers with B types, 18 ~ 36V .
you will need the adjusment option to be able to go in between CC region and voltage protection.

Enanthate said:
Are you sure it's not the other way around? At above 36V it enters constant current, while being in CV at below 36V. Would explain gddg's problem, the driver thinks it's powering the LEDs in series at the moment, hence the low power.
I could be wrong. But pretty sure CC is series-mode.
Parallel circuits requires constant voltage, while in series the voltage depends on load.
Click to expand...
at about 36V he leaves the constant current region, with B type you cant leave it, see above.
CC or CV mode arent directly related to series or parallel.

As 1212ham say its a clever idea to skip the meter on the output and see if it will be enough, if not order a new driver.
XLG 240 H should be the cheapest option.
 
cobshopgrow said:
the driver will regulate itself in between 18 and 36V BUT its a 6.7A driver.
so if you connect one strip it regulates to 6.7A for this one strip!
Click to expand...
Not arguing, but I'll add this. The driver is limited to 6.7 amps, but that strip needs over 38v to draw 1400mA, so it's quite safe.
 
cobshopgrow said:
its a B type driver no A or AB type.
"VOLTAGE ADJ. RANGE - Adjustable for A/AB/C-Type only " from the datasheet.
youre stuck with the constant current region the driver offers with B types, 18 ~ 36V .
you will need the adjusment option to be able to go in between CC region and voltage protection.
Click to expand...
Doesnt the overvoltage limit apply across all series drivers? I assumed, but have no real knowledge otherwise. Thought there would be some wiggle room even in the b-type
 
seems to be the only wiggle room on this b type driver is the 0.37V over 36V otherwise the uv leds would had happily taken it.
you cant do much about it with b types then to stick within their regions.

edit:
thinking of it further, the driver is in some kind of safe mode, there is maybe some more room then the 0.37V, just not enough so he falls back in to this mode.
0.37v seems a bit low, a volt should be doable or such, youre right.
 
Last edited:
1212ham said:
Not arguing, but I'll add this. The driver is limited to 6.7 amps, but that strip needs over 38v to draw 1400mA, so it's quite safe.
Click to expand...
true true, for that example, but wont be true if he connect one strip of his 660nm/whites, they would get the 6.7A so better to bust the myth.
and, hey i wrote in between 18-36V :D therefore.

the solution is clear to us both, haha.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top