Actual wattage issues?

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ChillStillLearning

Active Member
I’m super confused but who isn’t when it comes to LED. So I have a bloomspect b1000. It says 1000w obviously but the actual draw from the wall is only 182 watts. Aren’t LED supposed to only consume X amount of power but give off A multiplied amount of power or light in this case. There’s 100 lights and even if they aren’t “10w each” like they say . Shouldn’t it be around at least 4-5 watts each?so I should get at least 4-500w correct? I’m not sure how the 180w correlates to the actual wattage. I just want to know where to comfort place this light over my plants.
 

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printer

printer

Well-Known Member
180W is the actual wattage that they draw from the wall. So 180W / 100 = 1.8W per Led chip. How much light you get out depends upon what the chip can do. The 1000W was suppose to be what you would need in terms of incandescent lights to get the same amount of light. A standard incandescent replacement bulb rated at 75W I have draws 12W. It says it 1100 lumens, which is the actual light output as far as what we see. Plants like a different spectrum and are rated in Par.

ChillStillLearning said:
That’s what i had it at before but if it’s not the actual wattage like it says shouldn’t it be closer?
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You have no idea what the assembly puts out in light. If the manufactuer gives a range of where you should place the light you should follow it.
 
BobThe420Builder

BobThe420Builder

Well-Known Member
More watts = bigger footprint but still same distance

180w 12"x16" light ish
300w 16"x24" light ish

More watts more coverage...same distance away
 
C

ChillStillLearning

Active Member
printer said:
180W is the actual wattage that they draw from the wall. So 180W / 100 = 1.8W per Led chip. How much light you get out depends upon what the chip can do. The 1000W was suppose to be what you would need in terms of incandescent lights to get the same amount of light. A standard incandescent replacement bulb rated at 75W I have draws 12W. It says it 1100 lumens, which is the actual light output as far as what we see. Plants like a different spectrum and are rated in Par.



You have no idea what the assembly puts out in light. If the manufactuer gives a range of where you should place the light you should follow it.
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What if the growth rate is slowed and it’s because it’s not enough light?
 
jimihendrix1

jimihendrix1

Well-Known Member
It takes 42.5w sq/ft of the very best LED Diodes to equal the best HID Single Ended. 1000w Hortilux HPS has the highest umol of any SE HID. 1600umol

The very best of the best LED Diodes to my knowledge are the Samsung 301h,,,,,, and Osram

The Gavita 1700e is 645w at the wall. And 1700umol, and is made specifically to replace a SE HID in a 4 x 4 area as per Gavita. There are a couple lights that are just a bit more efficient, but not by much. The Phillips Greenpower is the best, but they dont sell individually. They are 635w, and 1800 umol. They will sell 40 of them for $32,000, which is a steal at $800 each.

But going by Gavita, for optimum growth through the full cycle, one needs 42.5w sq/ft

The LED you have is very inefficient. Id put it no more than 15 inches from canopy.

Many LED manufacturers are guilty of highly overrating their products, and also use misleading advertising like say using 1000w in the ad, when the actual watts are 180w, and 1000w has nothing to do about anything involving the light.

Bottom line as was stated above, draw at the wall, and the type of Diodes, and Drivers used is what matters.
 
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ChillStillLearning

Active Member
Brettman said:
Lighting manufacturers have always compared new tech to incandescent
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Yeah okay I figured when I was buying it it wasn’t anywhere’s near 1000w. Which is why it was 60-70 bucks but I figured it’d still work no matter how shitty it’ll work for now until I can get a real good one but for a first grow I think it’ll do just fine for my needs so I did lower it down a bit. I’m in a 19x36x6’ tent. That gives me exactly 37.33w per square foot.
 
Doug Dawson

Doug Dawson

Well-Known Member
The way they label blurple lights is a simple and deceptive marking trick. Let's say they put 100 10w led's in the light. They than multiply the 10 watt max for each led by the number of led's and call it a 1000 watt light. Now technically if you sent 10 watts to each led you would have 1000 watts but it only draws 182 watts from the wall. Since it cannot multiply voltage it can only use what it draws so it drives each led at less than 1/5 of what it is actually capable of. This is how they determine the crazy numbers on the box and how the screw people. I started with blurple lights and they can produce a fine end result, heck I still use my blurple for seedlings as it is more than enough light to get that job done, just not optimal for flowering. As a Canadian I am limited to 4 plants at a time so I want optimal lighting, this is why I went to 1000 watt HPS and now to an HLG 600 rspec. That said there are many fantastic plants grown under blurple lights. A little knowledge is great so at least you know what you are actually getting and with that knowledge you can dial in your setup. We cannot all afford the best of the best but we can learn what we have and use it the best we can.
 
M

Mak'er Grow

Well-Known Member
If I'm not mistaken...
Usage draw amounts from the wall is used to tell you how much is being used by the light so you can calculate the cost to run it, but voltage X amperage on the DC side of the driver will tell you the correct draw and wattage amounts the diodes are using/consuming.
Theres a difference between the two...efficiency of the driver circuitry comes into play here.
Oh and if roots are coming out the bottom then put them in bigger pots
Good luck and happy growin' :P
 
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