PJ Diaz
Well-Known Member
I think you just need to flip one of the boards around, so that you have the - on one board connected to the + on the other board.
DIY with Quantum Boards
- Thread starter robincnn
- Start date
PadawanWarrior
Well-Known Member
The reason I posted the video is because he talks about it at like 16 minutes in. I'd start at 15 minutes in and watch it for a couple minutes.
Frank Nitty
Well-Known Member
I thought of that... I'm gonna try it...
Frank Nitty
Well-Known Member
No dice... Fuck it,until I figure something out I'll just have to make it work...
Some light is better than no light... I don't know, but WTF!!! I've been dealing with this problem for over a year now... Thanks guys for all your help even when I was being an ass... I'm just frustrated...
pop22
Well-Known Member
Frank Nitty
Well-Known Member
So would I fall into that same category as well, seeing that my boards are 288s too,even though it's an rspec???
Frank Nitty
Well-Known Member
DAMMIT MAN!! Where were you guys when I was asking all these same questions here a year ago when I was looking for a driver for these lights in this exact thread???
PadawanWarrior
Well-Known Member
Why PM? Why not just talk here so someone else might learn something.
PadawanWarrior
Well-Known Member
So can you get it to work at all?
pop22
Well-Known Member
Because FN and I have been friends for sometime now and PM mean PRIVATE message... if we wanted it in public that's were it would be. Rather a rude question IMO.
its.always.420
Well-Known Member
Looking at the datasheet for the 320-48 it states adjustable current as 3.35-6.7a. So if parallel wired 2 boards i would have 1.675-3.35a at each board? could set that current pot limit to 6a easily enough...
I want to order the boards tomorrow so guys please give me your best thoughts on if this will work or not
thanks so much
Stephenj37826
Well-Known Member
Parallel splits the current amongst the boards.
TWest65
Well-Known Member
If you look at thr Flux Characteristics on HLG's site, you'll see the bottom row says at 49.86 volts, the board will draw 2.8 amps. If you multiply them you'll get 139.6 watts. Two boards at 49.86 volts, and the driver will output 5.6 amps for 279.2 watts. All those specs are within the HLG-320H-54 specs. They are within specs of the HLG-320H-48 too, except the voltage. By turning the voltage higher than 48 volts, you are effectively lowering the max current from 6.7 amps to approximately 6.45 amps (48v x 2.8a = 321.6 watts. divide that by 49.86 volts = 6.45a), which is more than the 5.6 amps the boards will draw. Since the driver is capable of going up to 49.86 volts, theoretically it will work.
That said, I personally wouldn't run the driver more than 75% to 80% of max, which is about 250 watts, because your outside of the specs. I don't see any reason it couldn't go higher, though.
TLDR - I think it will work.
Frank Nitty
Well-Known Member
There he is!!!
guitarguy10
Well-Known Member
I have the older version of this light: https://gn.uk/led-grow-lights/gn-telos-8
Would it be worth it to take the driver off and install it to new quantum boards? How much are just the boards? Would I kill myself via electrocution OR fire?
It's not a bad light, but it is dated and I'm sure doesn't hold a candle to the newer samsung boards or whatever.
Would it be worth it to take the driver off and install it to new quantum boards? How much are just the boards? Would I kill myself via electrocution OR fire?
It's not a bad light, but it is dated and I'm sure doesn't hold a candle to the newer samsung boards or whatever.
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Frank Nitty
Well-Known Member
I've been running this light since I bought it without the proper driver and I still get great results... My OCD won't allow me to sit still on this because I know that I can get more out of my grows...
its.always.420
Well-Known Member
what driver are you using? @Frank Nitty
cobshopgrow
Well-Known Member
2 boards in parallel instead of only one will be even a lil lower then 49.86V.
ilovereggae
Well-Known Member
that is a nice driver for sure. the cheapest option I can think of real quick would be to get a 4 pack of the QB120's which can run at 60W each w no heatsink. Some 1/4 angle aluminum would make a cheap and simple frame.
QB120 V2 Quantum Boards
High Efficiency LED Light Engines. 120pcs Samsung LM301H LED per board
horticulturelightinggroup.com
They run at 24v tho, so you would need to do a parallel-series circuit. 2 boards connected in series splits the voltage, those each connect in parallel back to the driver.
Something like this:
I think that is all correct but someone else pls confirm.
Frank Nitty
Well-Known Member
I used the frame of a window screenthat is a nice driver for sure. the cheapest option I can think of real quick would be to get a 4 pack of the QB120's which can run at 60W each w no heatsink. Some 1/4 angle aluminum would make a cheap and simple frame.
QB120 V2 Quantum Boards
High Efficiency LED Light Engines. 120pcs Samsung LM301H LED per board
They run at 24v tho, so you would need to do a parallel-series circuit. 2 boards connected in series splits the voltage, those each connect in parallel back to the driver.
Something like this:
View attachment 4753474
I think that is all correct but someone else pls confirm.
