pool shock vs ozone in DWC to maintain 600mV ORP

Darknes01 said:
THANK U SO SO MUCH!
I love getting real equations and being able to double check my math with it.

Also just purchased an ORP tester and cant wait till that gets here so i can start playing around with it.
I guess to kill pythium one needs about 780mV on an ORP tester so it will be nice adding the pool shock at lower doses say 1ppm at a time and watching the mV rise and finding that sweet spot to kill algea and bacteria but not toast the plants.
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From what I've researched, it'll take a higher amount to kill pathogens that have already taken hold, but a lot less for prevention. As rykmtnman said, prevention is better than reactive measures. I'm planning to not only keep my res temps down under 70, but also plan to alternate between h2o2 and some sort of chlorine treatment on a spaced-out schedule to help keep things clean. I'll see how that goes...
 
rkymtnman said:
the real solution is to remove as many issues a grower has that sustain pythium and then you only need to use it as a preventative and not a cure.
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I agree with your statement. I just completed a full cycle with athena cleanse and zero issues. After the cycle, i cleaned both my systems with bleach and a lot of it too lol like 2 gallons for a 65 gallon system. all was well then I dont know why i decided to give h2o2 instead of continuing my athena cleanse and my luck i noticed that clear slime was back ( i had this issue a few grows back and thought i had gotten rid of it but i guess the athena cleanse ) was keeping it away.
Anyway long story short im back to square 1 battling slime so decided to learn as much as i can about keeping a sterile res and understanding ORP free chlorine levels in water and how to combat it all.
 
GTConsulting said:
From what I've researched, it'll take a higher amount to kill pathogens that have already taken hold, but a lot less for prevention. As rykmtnman said, prevention is better than reactive measures. I'm planning to not only keep my res temps down under 70, but also plan to alternate between h2o2 and some sort of chlorine treatment on a spaced-out schedule to help keep things clean. I'll see how that goes...
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just a friendly advice, if you ever get ( i hope u never do ) clear slime, which is cyanobacteria never use h2o2 as this actually for some odd reason boosts it and has very little effect on killing it, i had this crap 2 cycles ago and only way to get rid of it was running 1 gallon of bleach in a 40 gallon system 2x over. nasty shit if u ask me. Now its back thats why i am asking all these questions trying to learn as much as i can about understanding on how everything is calculated so i can increase and decrease free chlorine dose in the water. again thank u so much for all ur help.
 
rkymtnman said:
so if i were you, let's take a look at why you are battling slime. there is usually a root cause, the pythium/slime/funk is just a symptom.
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I think its due to a light leak , not sure , water temp is usually around 65 to 67 i dont see what else it could be but a light leak
 
rkymtnman said:
so if i were you, let's take a look at why you are battling slime. there is usually a root cause, the pythium/slime/funk is just a symptom.
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Exactly.

The main causes of bacterial infection are hi water temps, light leaks, and using any organics in the rez.

You need to be a fanatic about light leaks. No white lids or pipes. No gaps, etc. If in doubt, cover with foil.

Keep water temps a low as possible.

Do not put anything in your rez that has ANY component that comes from a plant or animal. This includes things like 'essential enzymes', worm castings, seaweed, kelp, etc etc etc. Use pure salts only in hydro. Im a fan of Jacks 321 hydro, but there are several other brands like GH, etc.
 
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