10 years since last grow! DWC, already in trouble!:D

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Bergrow

Member
Hello guys!

Growing weed, need help!

My setup :

Seeds - Critical x Amnesia and UK Cheese (Free seed)

Dwc - Two 7 gallon buckets / 4 air stones in each bucket

Light - 200W LED light during veg / 400W HPS during flower and will probably use the 200W aswell (no?)

Nutes - GH Grow-micro-flower / GH silicate / GH nectar / Bio Cal-mag/ GH Pro roots / GH pro bloom (Fish force by plagron has gotting its cap back on atm)



As for temperature control i got cool air coming in and hot air out controlled by an Inkbird termostat

Humidifier is on low and manage to keep it somewhat steady at 50% RH.

I'll add more info as i go, here is my first pictures, the one getting a bit yellow is the UK cheese
 

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OldMedUser

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
I think your UK is growing faster than the leaves can turn green is all that is.

I just got my first LED COB light and have noticed that the centres are staying lime green longer than than they do under my MH light. Growing very nicely tho and all 9 looking healthy and happy.

What ppm do you have them at now? Tap or RO water? I've done a lot of DWC so always curious.

:peace:
 
B

Bergrow

Member
My Tap water is coming out at 7 pH and around 22 ppm, our tap water is safe to drink.

First feed i gave them 100 ppm mix of GH G/M/B - Pro Roots and Cal/Mg.
 
OldMedUser

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
Bergrow said:
My Tap water is coming out at 7 pH and around 22 ppm, our tap water is safe to drink.

First feed i gave them 100 ppm mix of GH G/M/B - Pro Roots and Cal/Mg.
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That's some sweet tap water! You live in Vancouver or what? ;) Your nutes should pull the pH down to a good spot without using any pH Down or Up
We get our tap water from a dugout on our property that's pH 8+ and 400+ppm depending on the season. Both go up as summer wears on and water levels go down a bit.

Your ppm should be more like 300 to start with and once they get a few nodes and showing rapid growth bump it up to 500. I hardly ever changed nutes. Maybe after the stretch but often did the whole grow from clone to harvest without ever changing nutes. I'd just top up with RO every 3 days then check ppm. Usually would be down a bit so then just add small amounts of nutes in the same ratio to get it back to target ±50. I often had 4 - 16 plants in one tub too. Using pH Perfect nutes I never checked the pH and never had any problems that could be blamed on bad pH.

There is honestly no good reason to dump perfectly good nutes every week especially during veg. That's a scam to get you to use up nutes faster and have to buy more, more often.

We have really low RH here so the plants drink a lot more water which causes them to also suck up more nutes than they can use so they store the extra in the leaves. This leads to Toxic Salts Buildup, TSB, which shows up around mid-flower with older leaves going all brown/yellow all over the leaf surface with the leaves getting all thick and crispy. Yellowing from lack of nutes causes the leaves to mainly go yellow but stay limp and thin.

I've never used the Fulvic stuff. AN 3-part comes with some of that and humic acid with a bunch of amino acids as well. Is that Pro Roots a GH product too? Knowing the history of GH and pot growers I'll never use their products and since they got bought out by Scotts/Monsanto/Hawthorne/Bayer I have even less use for them but I know they work just fine. Last time I bought gallon jugs of the AN 3-part they were almost $50 cheaper for 3 than the gal jugs of the GH. Must be five years now and still have over half left.

DWC rocks and DWC ScroG rocks hard! My first one was a mother plant growing in a 2L tobacco can so I drilled out another one, made a band around it with electrical tape so it wouldn't fall thru the lid I cut to fit the can. Custom job. :)

ScroGMar2910 005.jpg ScroGMar2910_05.jpg ScroGMar2910_07.jpg ScroGApr0710_01.jpg

:peace:
 
B

Bergrow

Member
My tap water is from a mountain spring, that get filtered before it reaches me :)

All my nutes are GH, and before i bought them i didnt know they where owned by monsanto & co.

I will bump up the ppm next week. Will change the res this time, need to get some jiffy plug parts out from my buckets.

My plan is to start LST'ing , topping and then Scrog them out.

My RH is around 20 - 30 % without a humidifier. I am about to order an inkbird to regulate my humidifier but i dont know if its worth it?.

Thanks for your input Oldmeduser!:)
 
OldMedUser

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
Bergrow said:
I am about to order an inkbird to regulate my humidifier but i dont know if its worth it?.
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Depends. If you are in an enclosed space like a tent with the unit in there and the exhaust fan blowing everything outside you'll never get the RH up. Same thing with adding CO2. If the grow space is in a larger room then humidifying the room works better because all teh air being drawn into the tent is already at the proper humidity if you take any temperature differential into consideration. Say the room is 65F and you get the RH to 60% as that air goes into the tent and warms up the RH may drop to 50% or lower as the humidity is relative to the temperature. There's charts out there if you want exact figures. That's why the RH spikes when the lights go out and the temp drops. There's no more moisture in the air but at a cooler temp is reads higher as a percentage of how much moisture the air can hold at that temp.

Like pH. There's a lot more to it than just reading a number off a meter.

I've basically given up on keeping my RH up tho have an idea for a sprayer to come on when the exhaust fan kicks in. The fan has a temp/rh controller on it so it only runs when needed.

When I bought this place almost 20 years ago one of the things I got with it is a yard sprayer with a 12V pump and 13gal tank. For putting on the back of a quad. I figure I can load it up with RO water and plug my 12V power supply into the fan box and have that sucker spray in front of the circulation fan while the exhaust is running. Will probably need a bypass valve or something to tone it down but will be fun to make it work.

If heat isn't a big issue with you I'd get a temp/RH controller for your exhaust plus the inkbird controller for the huey unit. Those dials on most will work too but you have to fiddle with it to dial it in then again every time the weather changes so auto control like an inkbird is better. I made a speed controller out of a ceiling fan controller and that works for most fans.

Thermostat for the heater down there on the right bottom. Speed controller up top by the rail for the light mover. All analog gear. :)

Controllers04.jpg

:peace:
 
B

Bergrow

Member
My room is 6 x 6 feet, so i guess my exhaust will probably just suck all humid air out like you say, intake air messures about 35-50°F all the way til May-June and will not go past 80°F ever. I already got an inkbird set up to control temperature linked to intake and exhaust, if i buy a second inkbird hygrostat i can connect a second exhaust to this so when temperature drops and RH% spike, it will draw out the humid air. But maby I'll do this my second grow, already put up alot of cash now, shit aint cheap here.


If the analog stuff is working i guess it does not matter:)

Do you actually have a light mover?? Thats awesome, I listen to a podcast called Growcast and there they talked about it:)
 
rkymtnman

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
what is Bio Cal/Mg? and no more fish guts right?

pH is?
EC is?
tent/room temps are?

looks like a Mg defic.
 
rkymtnman

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
it's not that you "can't" run organics in dwc, but you "shouldn't" until you get your system totally dialed in.
 
rkymtnman

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
if you have some epsom salts (you should buy some of that too), mix up 1 TBSP per gallon and give that really yellow one a good foliar feeding. best time is right as the lights go OFF>
 
B

Bergrow

Member
Thanks man, they did not have calimagic when i ordered my nutes so i thought this one would do:)

I managed to get som foodgrade epsomsalt.

Anything else i should get?

Ordering calimgic asap
 
D

DaFreak

Well-Known Member
With Epsom I don't think you'll need the cal/mag. As mentioned above, up your ppm. DWC can be a bitch to start seeds in, I usually added drip irrigation till the roots were well established. I think you're just seeing the shock from plants struggling to get what they need in a root zone that is harsh for them. Once you have more roots into the Rez that will clear itself up assuming your pH and recipe are correct.
 
OldMedUser

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
Bergrow said:
Do you actually have a light mover?? Thats awesome, I listen to a podcast called Growcast and there they talked about it
Click to expand...
A few years ago I got some extra family cash and blew some money on grow stuff out in BC. Scored a Light Rail 4.0® with a 6'6" rail. Really handy to cover more space with less lights. It cost about $400 but has paid for itself by now in not having to run another light when the plants are taking up more space than one light will cover. It only uses 9W compared to another 400W or using a 1000W one which is all I had at the time. Since then I've got 3 - 600W e-ballasts with lights and shades so have something between the 400 and 1000W lights. I actually got it to use in a 4x8' grow space I haven't built yet. Two of the 600W mounted back-to-back to light up the whole space for flowering only.

Made in CO, USA too

LightRailandFan.jpg

:peace:
 
OldMedUser

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
Bergrow said:
Here is that fish force product: https://www.plagron.com/en/products/fish-force

Here is my cal/Mg : https://www.growmart.eu/BioBizz-Calmag-500-ml.html

The ppm is now 192 ( i added some nutes)
pH is 6.8 ( i just adjusted it to 5.8, 2 days ago)

I am changing the res today with fresh nutes so that i get that fish force out.

The roots are just outside the netpot.

The growt seems a bit stunted :(
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Gonna be stunted until things are right in the rez. Looks like it's trying to grow so I'd aim for 300ppm. Your CalMag should be fine and I never used more than a half dose. The nutes already have Ca and Mg in them so the CalMag is just to compensate for the lack of those in something like RO or distilled water. Most tap water will have a bit of those and others you may not want like excess sodium, iron or manganese. A little Epsom Salts doesn't hurt and is great to add in later flowering when the plant wants more Mg and the S really helps with resins and terpenes.

You definitely don't want organic nutes like fish stuff in there.

:peace:
 
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