The idea is to only remove fan leaves that are blocking light from getting to apical growth (the apex from each node, or, "the bud site") and to allow adequate air flow rhrough the plant. I try to bend and tuck any leaves i can under existing branches and i remove the ones that need to be removed. The main reason for ALL THAT TIME IN VEG is TO GROW MORE NODES, NOT LEAVES. For someone raging about the forum being full of misinformation and opinion, then stating that people should learn the science behind the plant , im not exactly reading a whole lot of science in your comment.. Defoliation is good, extreme defoliation can be very harmful unless you know exactly what you are doing. If you can look down on your plant from above and you can see the floor/soil/hydroton/ect.... then you jave removed too many leaves. If there is light hitting your floor, it is wasting that precious light energy the plants could be using if there was a leaf there to absorb it. So, I'll state it again.... defoliating so that every node gets light is very very good for flower development. Extreme defoliation is very bad and you have removed so many solar panels that the plant is not getting as much light energy as it could be and bud growth actually BECOMES SEVERELY RETARDED. If you pulled all the fan leaves and still harvested decent nugs, imagine how much better it could have been if the plant was able to absorb more light per square foot. The only way removing fan leaves improves taste is if you remove them before smoking/processing. Look at the process of mainlining or manifolding and then look at rye results. Ive been growing for 15 years and in a side by side comparison, WHEN IT IS DONE PROPERLY, it definitely grows more budSo much garbage misinformation on these forums, bullshit non-researched 2cents tidbits from morons who don't understand how plants work.
Keep pulling off those leaves which you spent all that time GROWING DURING VEG.
How the hell can pulling leaves "not affect yield" and improve taste?
INTERNET RAGE.
hey thanks man,I’m new to this forum and have found most info to be helpful. What you said makes the most sense. When it comes to “the science of the plant” lol . I’m almost forty and have grown a few indoors and a lot of outdoor. So I need all the help I can get with these autos. I got a few photos going that I’m excited to see. If you don’t mind can I hit you up for advice or that’s not how this works?The idea is to only remove fan leaves that are blocking light from getting to apical growth (the apex from each node, or, "the bud site") and to allow adequate air flow rhrough the plant. I try to bend and tuck any leaves i can under existing branches and i remove the ones that need to be removed. The main reason for ALL THAT TIME IN VEG is TO GROW MORE NODES, NOT LEAVES. For someone raging about the forum being full of misinformation and opinion, then stating that people should learn the science behind the plant , im not exactly reading a whole lot of science in your comment.. Defoliation is good, extreme defoliation can be very harmful unless you know exactly what you are doing. If you can look down on your plant from above and you can see the floor/soil/hydroton/ect.... then you jave removed too many leaves. If there is light hitting your floor, it is wasting that precious light energy the plants could be using if there was a leaf there to absorb it. So, I'll state it again.... defoliating so that every node gets light is very very good for flower development. Extreme defoliation is very bad and you have removed so many solar panels that the plant is not getting as much light energy as it could be and bud growth actually BECOMES SEVERELY RETARDED. If you pulled all the fan leaves and still harvested decent nugs, imagine how much better it could have been if the plant was able to absorb more light per square foot. The only way removing fan leaves improves taste is if you remove them before smoking/processing. Look at the process of mainlining or manifolding and then look at rye results. Ive been growing for 15 years and in a side by side comparison, WHEN IT IS DONE PROPERLY, it definitely grows more bud
Hey, yeah man im happy to help with anything i can. My email is JS.BBEMAIL @ GMAIL.COM. i dont check this message board very often so email me any time you want. Happy growing.hey thanks man,I’m new to this forum and have found most info to be helpful. What you said makes the most sense. When it comes to “the science of the plant” lol . I’m almost forty and have grown a few indoors and a lot of outdoor. So I need all the help I can get with these autos. I got a few photos going that I’m excited to see. If you don’t mind can I hit you up for advice or that’s not how this works?
thanks will doHey, yeah man im happy to help with anything i can. My email is JS.BBEMAIL @ GMAIL.COM. i dont check this message board very often so email me any time you want. Happy growing.
Nice! How many are there? And is that an auto?I defoliate through veg and for first week of flower then one more time when the stretch is done... And lollipop and top and lst View attachment 4883774
8 plants no autos here....Nice! How many are there? And is that an auto?
I know this is old but...Yes everyone, you should remove your leaves during flowering, not just the fan leaves though. Removal of photosynthate storage and production facilities in a plant is key to it's energy intensive flowering development. In fact everyone just remove all the leaves on your plants and you'll get bumper crops that taste like sugared virgins and rainbows. For real yo.
[Insert sarcasm here].
See the problem I’m having is with an auto. First time and last.8 plants no autos here....
Some nitrogen is still important during bloom, it has a huge impact on bud size and plant health, esp during stretch. If you want to tone down nitrogen in the final 3 weeks or so, that would be fine, otherwise you might bottleneck your plants if you do it from the beginning. In general, keeping your PPMs at a normal, healthy level, and not trying to "push" them will create good tasting buds.So I purchased a spider farmer sf 4000 and learned from last harvest to only pull what’s under my scrogg net week one of flower and tuck for a week then untuck. After that raise the light and tie we down. I learned it’s better to only make 8 -10 bud sites that will be the size of my bed on each plant with satellites also having bud sites attached to it then to make as many cola sites as possible making popcorns if that makes sense. Last harvest it took almost 15 weeks to harvest because I pulled way to many levels at week 2 of flower and I got more leaf than calyx ratio. From learning that I am just flipping today and have at least 50 plus branches with main cola sites and sati as live that spider farmer. I’m trying to do a low nitrogen and all p and k for bloom. Gonna try 0-10-10 for flower. Last crop I used tiger farm and it was crap. Burned my ladies badly.
Check out gen hydro's koolbloom.the liquid is 0-10-10 but it has extra sulphur to aid essential oil production. The koolbloom powder is for the last 4 weeks and it makes for amazingly big, tight, glass-breaking nuggets. If you get the powder tho, its important to not go over the recommended amountFor some reason these plants love the ppm at 5.4–5.8. There very acidic I tried using 6.8 and they bairly wanted to take any nutrients at all if any. I have to add lemon juice just to average it out and lower the ph level. I might get Alaska more bloom since it’s 0-10-10 and add a different feed with maybe 2-0-0 and mix em for my feed. That way they get enough nitrogen but potassium for there flower. We’ll see in 12 weeks.