Recycled Organic Living Soil (ROLS) and No Till Thread

Vbz.420 said:
They'll be outside too if that makes a difference. Will be watering with phd Ro water when rain isnt taking over. I have a thread under organics as well if u wanna check it out gonna be posting everything there im not trying to clog this thread with my noob questions. haha
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You should be just fine then, if anything just keep an eye on your plants for any signs over time that the PH is getting too low. I think Happy Frog is buffered to begin with, and the EWC will buffer the PH too, so you should be good to go. Good luck with your grow!
 
Nwtexan said:
Curious to hear what folks do with no till and SIPS as far as amending and preparing between cycles. I’m imagining at very least to clean up reservoir of roots and soil.
What would you do as far as amending? I did the trench thing with a bit of dr earth flower girl. Put some malted barley on top, straw, then plastix
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Any thoughts on amending between grows? I am having a bit of nitrogen toxicity in this run, my first with a SIP and no till. The Coots mix had a very high sodium level as well as high sulfur and then low micros. I'm using TM7 in a light top water application.

I'm assuming with the nitrogen issue, especially as this is used around flip, that I probably won't need much nitrogen
 
Nwtexan said:
Any thoughts on amending between grows? I am having a bit of nitrogen toxicity in this run, my first with a SIP and no till. The Coots mix had a very high sodium level as well as high sulfur and then low micros. I'm using TM7 in a light top water application.

I'm assuming with the nitrogen issue, especially as this is used around flip, that I probably won't need much nitrogen
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I hope I don't have the same high nitrogen issues. I'm using 1 cup of alfalfa per cu ft rather than the kelp-I know they aren't exactly equivalent, but I was hoping to get away from using kelp powder. I'm sure the high sodium is from kelp and crustacean meal, and the sulfur is probably the gypsum and neem meal-but I've seen several differing amounts of gypsum being used in Coots mix. The recipe from the No Till revisited thread has 1 cup oyster shell and 1 cup Gypsum per cu ft, that's what I went with. I'm sure I'll be high in sulfur too. I'm going to run a test, then post the results here too, just because I enjoy hearing about other ppls testing lol. I just went out to turn my soil and it's nice and hot right now-it turned out really nice, I do like this mix.
 
Rurumo said:
I hope I don't have the same high nitrogen issues. I'm using 1 cup of alfalfa per cu ft rather than the kelp-I know they aren't exactly equivalent, but I was hoping to get away from using kelp powder. I'm sure the high sodium is from kelp and crustacean meal, and the sulfur is probably the gypsum and neem meal-but I've seen several differing amounts of gypsum being used in Coots mix. The recipe from the No Till revisited thread has 1 cup oyster shell and 1 cup Gypsum per cu ft, that's what I went with. I'm sure I'll be high in sulfur too. I'm going to run a test, then post the results here too, just because I enjoy hearing about other ppls testing lol. I just went out to turn my soil and it's nice and hot right now-it turned out really nice, I do like this mix.
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Kelp Meal is made from well rinsed Kelp and should be fine for sodium
 
hillbill said:
Kelp Meal is made from well rinsed Kelp and should be fine for sodium
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it should be, but there are dozens of comments about high sodium in cootz mix in different threads, so I'm just trying to figure out where it's coming from. Probably varies a lot between brands too, like anything.
 
BeeAreBee said:
My soil has been being worked almost ten years now.
I joined the PFA (probiotic farmers alliance) on Facebook and never looked back. I started in earthboxes and diy versions. But now, all that + some new went into a new grassroots 4x4 soil bed.
Im using chilleds x3 and a diy photoboost strip from green gene.
Just bought myself some inhouse genetics to kick off the new bed.
Clover Covercrop and companions coming in (like rosemary, lavender, cilantro beans, etc.)View attachment 4878383

Im Stoked!

View attachment 4878381View attachment 4878382
Btw, how do i, like , a post or comment? I dont seem to have the option...
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Nice. This is my style of growing. I use cover crop rather then hay.

20210426_175740.jpg
 
Rurumo said:
it should be, but there are dozens of comments about high sodium in cootz mix in different threads, so I'm just trying to figure out where it's coming from. Probably varies a lot between brands too, like anything.
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My local feed and seed store had kelp meal by the 50 pound bag so I splurged for it. It was expensive too, like $65 Canadian or something. I was pretty excited when I got home with it until I read the nutrient analysis on the label. It said 8.5% sodium chloride. :shock:

Of course this was not sold as an agricultural amendment but instead as a nutrient supplement for livestock. Luckily they took it back the next day for a full refund because I hadn't yet opened the sack. It did make me wonder though if some companies buy this stuff and resell it as an amendment in smaller packaging for a big markup. Personally, if I bought kelp and it didn't explicitly list the amount of sodium in it, I wouldn't buy it. They're hiding something.
 
GrassBurner said:
@Rurumo have you checked out Coots website? There's an article from last July with his recipe, im guessing it's the most recent.
Coots Soil Article
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Hmm... looks weird to me. It's written by "Jim Bennett" and he tells us that only two mineral supplements are "paramagnets" and have anything to do with CEC. Then he talks about azomite, a montmorillonite clay. Montmorillonite clays like bentonite can have CEC's many times the the rock dusts he lists as "paramagnets". I stopped reading there.
 
Northwood said:
Hmm... looks weird to me. It's written by "Jim Bennett" and he tells us that only two mineral supplements are "paramagnets" and have anything to do with CEC. Then he talks about azomite, a montmorillonite clay. Montmorillonite clays like bentonite can have CEC's many times the the rock dusts he lists as "paramagnets". I stopped reading there.
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Jim Bennett is Clackamas Coots............
 
Hey, I've been looking through notes I've taken while looking through the thread, wondering if anyone knows why you shouldn't let Yarrow in a plant extract ferment? I know some plants can alter chemically when fermented but Yarrow seems to be pretty commonly used in fpjs on other organic gardening sites .
This is from 2013ish

20210429_192336.jpg
 
Geekloveart said:
Hey, I've been looking through notes I've taken while looking through the thread, wondering if anyone knows why you shouldn't let Yarrow in a plant extract ferment? I know some plants can alter chemically when fermented but Yarrow seems to be pretty commonly used in fpjs on other organic gardening sites .
This is from 2013ish

View attachment 4890002
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Never made an fpj so no experience with it, but I read that coots quote as not to let a yarrow tea ferment which is a whole different thing than making fpj out of yarrow.

Just how I read the coots quote though, could be off here. I am looking forward to doing my own ferments sometime this year and would love to try some yarrow.
 
loco41 said:
Just how I read the coots quote though, could be off here. I am looking forward to doing my own ferments sometime this year and would love to try some yarrow.
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You could be right, i hadn't looked at it like that.
I've made heaps of casuarina (she oak) fpjs using lactobacillus serum, to extract the silica but not much else yet, I'd like to try some of the fruit ferments
 
Geekloveart said:
You could be right, i hadn't looked at it like that.
I've made heaps of casuarina (she oak) fpjs using lactobacillus serum, to extract the silica but not much else yet, I'd like to try some of the fruit ferments
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I'm getting ready to buy some comfrey root crowns pretty soon. Just need to get some 20 gallon pots and some soil mixed up for them first. I'm hoping to get a lot of biomass from them once they get established, but I've never grown them outdoors before so really not too sure how it will all go.

It seems like they aren't too finicky to grow, but I'll throw some pictures up when it all comes together.
 
OSBuds said:
Get the 1 to 4 year plants, crowns take longer.
"Plant crowns or 1-to-4 year plants NOW and have fresh leaves in 2 to 3 weeks!"

Coe's Comfrey | The Legendary Herb of Life

Coe's Comfrey - We sell Bocking #4 comfrey root cuttings, crown cuttings, one-year, two-year, and 3-to-4-year plants! Buy Live Organic Fresh Planting Stock From Coe's Today!
www.coescomfrey.com www.coescomfrey.com
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Nice, I'll have to check this site out if strictlymedicinals.com cant supply some crowns when I go to order. Trying to keep the price down a little and strictly medicinals has 20 crowns for $60, but appreciate that link as I may need to try a "round 2" as I'm sure I'll have a few issues. Plus I'd like to see the crowns and start with what I will hopefully be splitting these plants into down the road. Would be really nice to acquire some well established plants, but hopefully by years end, I'll have things on the up and up. Eventually, I would like to dig some holes in the ground and just drop these plants into a garden bed, but out of sheer laziness the bed is in no shape to try these out right now.

Wish I wouldn't have used all my homemade compost earlier this year in a different flower bed so I didn't have to source some bagged compost, but hoping a 50/50 mix of Coast of Maine Schoddy blend and some local omri listed yard waste compost will suffice. I'll throw in a couple scoops of fresh ewc in each pot, but really don't want to use up a lot of my ewc for this outdoor project right now.

Still not sure exactly how I plan to build this soil, but the three things I have in bulk are alfalfa/kelp/basalt so I was thinking something along these lines. Looking to mix up around 250 gallons and not quite fill each 20 gal pot up all the way (I have 5x 15 gallon pots already filled, so just need to mix enough for 15 more containers). A recipe like this would keep it relatively light and would only need to source one box of the down to earth vegan mix to kind of help fill in some gaps between the bulk amendments I have on hand.

1/3 peat
1/3 aeration (still needing to sort this out as well, hoping a local brewery store can come through with some bulk rice hulls for me)
1/3 compost

amendments added per cu ft.

1/2 cup Down to Earth vegan mix
1/2 cup kelp meal
1/2 cup alfalfa meal
1/2 cup oyster shell
1.5 cups basalt
1/2 cup st george black

Sorry for rambling on, just excited about this little project since I will be taking my tent down after this run for a while. It will give me something to channel my inner growing needs until I set things back up again. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.
 
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