Some sort of deficiency

[Andre420]

Yucca will help, and water slow.

I’m gonna give them some time and see what happens. Thanks

 

[OldMedUser]

Not arguing just gonna put this out there.


Since Epsom Salts are “of the earth”, meaning they are a harvested product found in well water, they are considered organic, and subsequently are considered safe for organic gardening

Epsom salt was named for a bitter saline spring at Epsom in Surrey, England. It is one of many naturally occurring mineral salts, a compound of magnesium and sulfate

'Organically derived' is what they are which just means they are naturally occurring and not a result of lab/factory production made by reacting a base with an acid. Take Mg and drop in in sulphuric acid and the result is MgSO4 exactly the same as the mined stuff.

AN sells versions of it's Big Bud and other nute line called organically derived as it's all mined minerals like the Epsom Salts of which you speak.

As a chemist I can speak with some precision about this. Either will work the same so your plant or palate will never know the difference.

Rain is acidic and as it leaks down through rocks and reacts with various minerals it creates these organically derived mineral salts which once the water evaporates leaves them in masses of crystals. Like the Himalayan Pink Sea salt mines in Pakistan. Over 90 mineral salts in there with only about 42% sodium chloride aka table salt. Those stalactites and stalagmites you see in caves are the result of these mineral laden waters dripping from the ceilings building layers of minerals over millenia as the water evaporates and leaves the mineral salts to build up.

Mg + H2SO4 = MgSO4 + H2 (gas) Same reaction in nature as it is in the lab.

 

[OldMedUser]

I’m gonna give them some time and see what happens. Thanks

Watch them get worse is what will happen. They are burning so need lots of extra runoff to lower the amount of nutes in the pots before they start going all brown along the leaf margins and toxic salts buildup takes over.

 

[Andre420]

Watch them get worse is what will happen. They are burning so need lots of extra runoff to lower the amount of nutes in the pots before they start going all brown along the leaf margins and toxic salts buildup takes over.

Runoff today was ppm 350 and ph 6.4, so ppm is a bit low I guess for week 5 of veg, might need more nutes. What do you say?

 

[OldMedUser]

Runoff today was ppm 350 and ph 6.4, so ppm is a bit low I guess for week 5 of veg, might need more nutes. What do you say?

I've burned enough plants in the last 20 years to know the signs and if you feed a bunch more you'll fry yours. You should saturate the pot and let it sit for a few hours then add enough water to force some runoff into a clean tray and test that. The organic portion of any nutes doesn't show up on a ppm pen as it measures EC, (electrical conductivity) and organics aren't conductive so don't register.

As they're still vegging they should lower the ppm on their own and newer growth may start looking fine in a bit.

What is the ppm of your tap water and do you ever calibrate your pen to be sure it's accurate? Have you ever got a water analysis report from your supplier to see what's actually in it. Sometimes they post one online but often they don't show all the mineral levels or alkalinity. May have to call and have a full report emailed to you and it should be free. Slightly hard or hard water will cause buildup of mineral salts in the pots and raise the pH causing lockouts of mostly micro-nutrients that will show up first in the newest growth as most of them are immobile and the new growth can only get them from the soil.

If they were my plants I wouldn't feed anything for at least another week and see how it goes. Switching to RO water helps eliminate water as a source of problems. That's all I use regularly.

Keep a copy of this chart and use the clues all around the plants to focus in on any issues that come up. It's not that easy to diagnose problems that can crop up.

 

[Andre420]

I've burned enough plants in the last 20 years to know the signs and if you feed a bunch more you'll fry yours. You should saturate the pot and let it sit for a few hours then add enough water to force some runoff into a clean tray and test that. The organic portion of any nutes doesn't show up on a ppm pen as it measures EC, (electrical conductivity) and organics aren't conductive so don't register.

As they're still vegging they should lower the ppm on their own and newer growth may start looking fine in a bit.

What is the ppm of your tap water and do you ever calibrate your pen to be sure it's accurate? Have you ever got a water analysis report from your supplier to see what's actually in it. Sometimes they post one online but often they don't show all the mineral levels or alkalinity. May have to call and have a full report emailed to you and it should be free. Slightly hard or hard water will cause buildup of mineral salts in the pots and raise the pH causing lockouts of mostly micro-nutrients that will show up first in the newest growth as most of them are immobile and the new growth can only get them from the soil.

If they were my plants I wouldn't feed anything for at least another week and see how it goes. Switching to RO water helps eliminate water as a source of problems. That's all I use regularly.

Keep a copy of this chart and use the clues all around the plants to focus in on any issues that come up. It's not that easy to diagnose problems that can crop up.

View attachment 4985797

Thanks mate, my tap water ppm is 36 and yes my pen is calibrated well. I’ll leave it be a week and see what happens. Thanks

 

[OldMedUser]

Thanks mate, my tap water ppm is 36 and yes my pen is calibrated well. I’ll leave it be a week and see what happens. Thanks

Damn good water so I think you could skip getting a report for it. My tap water comes from a dugout and is 400+ ppm and 8+ pH. Can't drink it so have bought RO water for 20 years.