Dolomite Lime

Old Cro

Active Member
New at this was wondering i grow in 7 gallon cloth pots using sunshine number 4 soil it has dolomite lime already added so should you be adding more to the soil as the grow continues. Monthly intervals.
 

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
https://www.braenstone.com/agricultural-lime-vs-dolomite-lime/

https://www.icmag.com/forum/marijuana-growing/organic-soil/119692-the-virtues-of-dolomite-lime

it takes about 5-6 months for dolomite lime to break down and become accessible to plants...top dressing with dolomite is kind of pointless, you have to make your soil up in advance, and top dress with more soil that has already been amended....otherwise, you're plants will never see it,
if you want to go full organic, you have to look into ROLS
https://www.rollitup.org/t/recycled-organic-living-soil-rols-and-no-till-thread.636057/
 

Kushash

Well-Known Member
https://www.braenstone.com/agricultural-lime-vs-dolomite-lime/

https://www.icmag.com/forum/marijuana-growing/organic-soil/119692-the-virtues-of-dolomite-lime

it takes about 5-6 months for dolomite lime to break down and become accessible to plants...top dressing with dolomite is kind of pointless, you have to make your soil up in advance, and top dress with more soil that has already been amended....otherwise, you're plants will never see it,
if you want to go full organic, you have to look into ROLS
https://www.rollitup.org/t/recycled-organic-living-soil-rols-and-no-till-thread.636057/
Just mind your pH and forget adding the lime.
I respect both of you guys. I'm just going to throw in my 2c.

I feel sometimes the PH of a soil like ffof is on the acidic side, I never used sunshine number 4 so I can't say how it performs. In some cases with ffof it's fine early in the grow. Sometimes it will carry a grow to harvest. Sometimes the PH will slowly drop to a point in mid flower where the plant begins to suffer from lockouts. I have found in situations like this topdressing with 3 or 4 TBL of DL in 5 gallons of soil will resolve low PH issues in about 10 days.
 

hotrodharley

Well-Known Member
I respect both of you guys. I'm just going to throw in my 2c.

I feel sometimes the PH of a soil like ffof is on the acidic side, I never used sunshine number 4 so I can't say how it performs. In some cases with ffof it's fine early in the grow. Sometimes it will carry a grow to harvest. Sometimes the PH will slowly drop to a point in mid flower where the plant begins to suffer from lockouts. I have found in situations like this topdressing with 3 or 4 TBL of DL in 5 gallons of soil will resolve low PH issues in about 10 days.
My experience is peat products even with lime added have a pH around 4.5 - 5.0. I don’t measure anymore. I don’t adjust pH at first because the pH eventually rises due to buffering by using 7.0 water.
 

Three Berries

Well-Known Member
There is a water 'soluble' limestone but it still needs time. It does start working immediately though to help control pH. It will not raise the pH quickly and harshly and it's hard to over use. It's more a maintenance and original soil builder.

FWIW the farmers use limestone on the fields if they grew soybeans and are going to corn. The soybeans are a legume and will collect nodules of nitrogen in the root system. This nitrogen as it breaks down will acidify the soil enough to harm or hinder the corn if not treated. Usually applied in the fall but sometimes in the spring before planting. They use very fine soft local limestone.

 

OneMoreRip

Well-Known Member
I was mixing some medium the other day adding dolomite and testing medium runoff ph with and without.

pretty sure the lime was changing runoff ph right away but I need to make some more medium in a few days and confirm that.
 

Three Berries

Well-Known Member
I've water a couple of times with some limestone water along with my well water. Well water is all I use at the beginning until about 5 weeks or now. I watered today with some more along with BT spores. The runnoff which I keep a low volume wise on the new soils was 6.2 and 6.6 today. From now on they get a 7.5 or so pH balanced rainwater with a cup of well water and any nutes I add. I generally use ammonia to bring the pH up, maybe 6mL per gallon at the most.
 

OneMoreRip

Well-Known Member
This is the lime I’m using, actually says to reapply every 4 weeks Didn’t notice that before I too was under the assumption it takes a while to do anything 8BE8035F-8FB0-433E-B0A6-5672A3EAC0C3.png

Espoma 6.75 lb. Organic garden lime is the finest grade of pelletized, dolomite limestone available. This soil amendment adjusts soil ph so that your plants are able to benefit as much as possible from the nutrients present. These garden lime granules are fast-acting yet maintain a slow release, making your lawn care simple. A single treatment is good for 4 weeks and may be applied throughout the gardening season.
 

Three Berries

Well-Known Member
It's a good buffer and starts to work immediately but still takes time to completely be used up. They just grind it up into a powder. Lime is made from limestone but very harsh.
 

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
This is the lime I’m using, actually says to reapply every 4 weeks Didn’t notice that before I too was under the assumption it takes a while to do anything View attachment 5013168

Espoma 6.75 lb. Organic garden lime is the finest grade of pelletized, dolomite limestone available. This soil amendment adjusts soil ph so that your plants are able to benefit as much as possible from the nutrients present. These garden lime granules are fast-acting yet maintain a slow release, making your lawn care simple. A single treatment is good for 4 weeks and may be applied throughout the gardening season.
they're using it on a lawn...the amount they say to use is good for about 4 weeks...doesn't mean it's this 4 weeks...the stuff you put on about 6 weeks ago is getting used now, and the stuff you're putting on now is going to get used up in about 6 weeks from now...the reapplication information is how long the amount they say to use is expected to last, they don't say that it will take effect tomorrow.


https://www.canr.msu.edu/resources/facts_about_soil_acidity_and_lime_e1566

https://algreatlakes.com/blogs/news/how-quick-can-i-expect-pelletized-lime-to-change-soil-ph
 

LeastExpectedGrower

Well-Known Member
they're using it on a lawn...the amount they say to use is good for about 4 weeks...doesn't mean it's this 4 weeks...the stuff you put on about 6 weeks ago is getting used now, and the stuff you're putting on now is going to get used up in about 6 weeks from now...the reapplication information is how long the amount they say to use is expected to last, they don't say that it will take effect tomorrow.


https://www.canr.msu.edu/resources/facts_about_soil_acidity_and_lime_e1566

https://algreatlakes.com/blogs/news/how-quick-can-i-expect-pelletized-lime-to-change-soil-ph
You're a regular member at MowItUp, right?
 

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
nope, landlord takes care of it here...but I was the landlord for the last 13 years till i moved, and i was a member then...and we had the nicest grass and prettiest plants in the area :p
i moved out 2 years ago, drove by the apartments a few days ago and the grass looks like shit now, i almost stopped and talked to the new manager...then i thought fuck em, let em hire a professional
 

LeastExpectedGrower

Well-Known Member
nope, landlord takes care of it here...but I was the landlord for the last 13 years till i moved, and i was a member then...and we had the nicest grass and prettiest plants in the area :p
Our property is old horse pasture, about 1.75 acres of it. House stands where the barn once did... I mow weekly, but don't do much besides fuss with problem areas, and it's not sodded or seeded turf for the most part...so wild grass/coverage, and even the parts that have been seeded end up being colonized by the local flora. Mowing keeps it to a dull roar as the wild always tries to take back what belonged to it.

Prefer to keep it native if I can but also neat and presentable. Have enough 'wild rough' for native flowerers, and we maintain bees as well as plenty of planted flowers and a vegetable garden.
 

OneMoreRip

Well-Known Member
The link you shared a graph showing what I observed, from what I can tell. It starts affecting ph on the first day/s

and who is using it on a lawn , the link or the people I bought it from? I didn’t notice
 
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jimihendrix1

Well-Known Member
Promix BX has a mix of 2/3 Calcitic Lime x 1/3 Dolomitic Lime. Calcitic acts faster than Dolomitic.

What are The Benefits of Calcitic Lime?
Calcitic lime has long been the preferred treatment for acidic soil. A thorough application of pulverized limestone tilled into the soil raises the pH to a neutral level, increasing crop yields and improving overall soil health.
The main “ingredient” in calcitic lime is calcium carbonate, which is why many people ask if calcium carbonate is the same as limestone. It counteracts the acidification of field soil. Acidification is the natural result of nitrogen heavy fertilizing practices. By adding a lime treatment, you can undo the damage caused by nitrogen treatments without counteracting the benefits.
In addition to neutralizing pH, lime also encourages the growth of micro-organisms that contribute to plant health. With the combination of helpful micro-organisms and pH balanced soil, plants and crops will thrive.
Calcitic lime works effectively, even with one treatment. Although waiting for the treatment to become fully effective requires some patience, if you plant your fields every year, calcitic lime will likely be the only treatment you’ll need to balance the pH level.
Calcitic lime also works more quickly than dolomite lime: Calcium carbonate is better at balancing pHs than magnesium carbonate, and calcitic lime contains much higher levels of calcium carbonate than dolomite lime.
What are Calcitic Lime’s Limitations?
Typical calcitic lime treatments require some patience. If you apply dry calcitic lime on a dry field, you will need to wait for rain for the treatment to work. Water is required for the chemical process to begin.
You must also till the soil immediately after the lime application. Lime sitting on the surface of your soil will not be nearly as effective as lime that is well mixed into the soil.
But the main drawback to calcitic lime is its simplicity. It is designed to neutralize pH and replace depleted calcium in the soil, and it won’t replace depleted magnesium. If your fields are producing magnesium deficient crops, you will find that calcitic lime treatments won’t improve your crop health.
However, these are special conditions. Most soils only need calcitic lime as their magnesium levels are already optimal. For most applications, calcitic lime is best. But you should always double-check the mineral content in your soil just to be sure.
What are the Benefits of Dolomite Lime?
When it comes to raising and balancing the pH of your soil, both calcitic and dolomite lime are effective. However, unlike calcitic lime, dolomite lime also contains large amounts of magnesium. Magnesium is an essential mineral for healthy soil.
Grass tetany, a metabolic disease affecting cattle and sheep livestock, is distinguished by magnesium deficiency. Fast growing spring grass will often be devoid of the magnesium livestock need to survive, making dolomite lime an important consideration if you are using your fields for livestock grazing.
Magnesium deficient plants are often yellower, have shorter root systems, and produce noticeably lower yields than plants grown in healthy soil. Fields home to crops that are taxing on potassium levels — such as corn fields — can also benefit from magnesium treatments.
If your field contains a calcium-to-magnesium ratio of 6:1 or greater, your field is considered to be magnesium deficient, and you should strongly consider using dolomite lime to bring your mineral balance into balance. Proper calcium-to-magnesium ratios are important for ensuring healthy growth.

What are Dolomite Lime’s Limitations?
However, while dolomite lime works well if you need to raise your magnesium levels, excess magnesium creates new dangers.
Too much magnesium can cause your soil to become overly compact, deterring crop growth while also making the soil more difficult to water efficiently. It can also fuel rampant weed growth, further impeding the growth of your crops.
Magnesium needs in your soil often correspond with your soil consistency. Magnesium deficiency is much more common in quick draining soils, especially those that are sandy, while clay and clay loam soils rarely suffer from magnesium issues.
If your fields contain a large amount of clay soil, it is unlikely that you will want to use dolomite lime. In fact, because dolomite can make soil compaction worse, an ill-advised dolomite application can seriously harm denser clay soils.
Additionally, undoing a dolomite lime treatment can be tough. Sulphur and nitrogen treatments can bring your magnesium levels back into line, but these treatments are time-consuming and can be expensive. So it is much cheaper and efficient to avoid adding extra magnesium into your soil in the first place.
Plus, if you don’t need dolomite lime, calcitic lime simply works better at restoring pH. Even though magnesium carbonate is alkaline just like calcium carbonate, it doesn’t work quite as effectively. So if you are merely looking to correct the pH balance, you are much better served choosing calcitic lime.
With this in mind, you should only use dolomite lime if you need to add magnesium to your soil. The risks posed by introducing too much magnesium far outweigh any benefits. As always, if you are unsure about the nature of your soil, make sure to contact a professional to measure your soil pH and mineral content before ordering a lime treatment.
 
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