Compact indoor gardening advice please

testtime

Well-Known Member
Long wall of text to follow, please don't b**** at me if you don't like to read, click away now.

I have an 8x4 tent with four LED lights that are capable of filling a 5x5 for cannabis growing. About 3 ft down of totally filled flowering for each light. They penetrate well. Each light consumes 180 watts when on full.I'd like to stretch them into as much distance here that I can for fruits and vegetables and herbs. If I have to pick up more lights in a couple months I will.

I have full access to the front 8 ft and one side 4 ft. I have no access to one side of the 4 ft and incredibly limited access to the back 8 ft.

I can control the light height easily. The floor is a tent catch basin, in the tent, over a tarp, over a carpet, over a floor over concrete slab. I am in Washington State and that slab is cold.

I can control the room heat pretty well and inside the tent I can maintain anywhere from 65° and up. My choice.

Since this is the first time I've ever done these types of seeds I ended up growing way too much in way too many dirt cubes. I've done one transplant of about half the plants so far and now have to figure out where they will finally end up, and figure out what's appropriate to kill simply due to lack of space.

Because I have multiple intertwined plants in a single cube I have to determine if I should separate them out and grow single plants or just let them grow where they are together and transplant them as one. In those cases it's all the same plant. Carrots with carrots, tomatoes with tomatoes, peppers with peppers, all the same strains, etc.

And I have at least six cubes of each strain growing this way.

Of course I've various goals and priorities. Fresh food is number one. Calorie and nutrient dense. I'll put up with some filler material like lettuce but not my choice, that's what the wife wants.

Don't harm the plants. If they can grow as one, do it but if I have to separate them out and kill them because of that and take a chance on the transplant failures do it.

In the case of the root vegetables it is my understanding that they will sense competition and they will not grow as big. The question to me is will they grow lots of little ones or will that be it? A couple of tiny ones and they are done? I'll be eating the tops as well so I won't mind if they're competing for the light and I have to chop them back.

Same goes for the viney stuff. Those zucchinis will be competing for space with those tomatoes and those peppers. Can I plant them in the same foot square space and train them up? Root mass is needed if the roots can't find the nutrients and the roots will have plenty of nutrients. I'll train them up on the trellis. Do they secrete anything or do they fight underground in ways which are harmful to each other if they have enough nutrients?

Of the plants I have, which ones would require a dramatically different watering schedule or nutrient regime that I would have to keep them separate?

To me the concept is watering until water runs off the bottom and then stop. Does anything need more or less than that?

Right now I'm using with Jack's tomato feed combined with a bit of super thrive. That's it. Do any of these things require a potash low diet since this particular blend is high in it?

Can I split a 1 ft square grow space between the viney stuff which I will train to go up the wall with the root stuff such as the carrots and beets? Is this bad or indifferent or possibly even beneficial?

The goal is to have a step system for about 3 feet looking into the tent from the front 8 ft. All the viny stuff goes up the back and the sides and then a couple of long steps / platforms to hold the other stuff in multiple square foot fabric planting segments. I'll have a skinny walk space into it in the middle from the wide part of the tent.

That means I will have 16 ft of trellises about 5 ft high when taking into account lighting position and ventilation requirements. I can allow the root space to be anywhere from 1 to 2 ft deep and 4 to 8 ft wide. It will be slightly raised off the floor to allow final drainage into a pumpable or dumpable container.

The LEDs are tuned high blue to encourage squat growth.

Then we have the long-lived herbs that end up as bushes and grow too damn slow and won't mix with any of the stuff that I'm going to be harvesting in two or three months. Those will end up in independent movable containers. So what herbs can live together as well?

What plants can I mix and match in this fashion?

Attached is a picture. Please keep a note that this is under the LED grow light which shows these leaves as being a bit more yellow than they are. Under standard human light they are a bit more green.

The following is the list of plants currently growing. Spinach, lettuce, broccoli, turnips, lemon balm, watermelon, scallions, Italian basil, oregano, marjoram, sage, rosemary, thyme, tarragon, Marconi red pepper, California wonder pepper, cayenne pepper, jalapeno pepper, San marzano tomato, rainbow tomato which means nothing, that could be anything, cabbage, basil, yellow pear tomato, dill, Swiss chard, cucumber, zucchini, beets, carrots.

Thanks for reading this far.

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testtime

Well-Known Member
i see carrots and beets...you can grow those in containers, but they have to be pretty deep, you can make a lot better use of the same space not growing root veggies inside
Totally understood. Please define what pretty deep is. Note what my handle is. Testtime. It is time to test. Is always time to test but in this case it's all brand new education.

As far as root vegetables versus anything else though, those are the most nutrient dense ones while giving me tops to saute with garlic and olive oil. I spent about 5 years on Atkins and I balanced the meat with root vegetable tops on every dish. Just because they take up more space in the realm of competition with other things does not mean the space is not worth it, I need to figure out the final values and compare them.

A couple of years of growing cannabis gives me a bit of background in dealing with this but the cost benefit analysis for the effort versus the final output versus not driving an hour to pick up fresh produce is driving me to figure out what I can and cannot do inside now, and then learn enough about the variety of plants that I can do outside so I'll start prepping them in a few months on the next cycle.

I don't expect 90% of this tent to live beyond the next month and then I expect to screw up a whole bunch of stuff while I figure it out. I expect to toss the melons since it's just a stupid waste of space but I wanted to germinate a few of those and see what happens. I have that same attitude with pretty much everything in there. I'll still keep an indoor tent for starts and for a variety of stuff that can stay indoors just because I want it.

I don't really expect to have any clue of what I'm doing for about 2 years as far as outside (at least two growth cycles) and at that point I will just be a beginner then. Indoors will be tremendously different from outdoors though because I expect to have piles of compost at that point, and I'll be growing under a half hoop greenhouse, the sun will be inconsistent, the bugs will want my stuff, so will the deer, etc. It's a different world out there.

So to start off with I simply want to experience the plants in a controlled environment.

I had no idea what the actual germination rate would be or the appropriate density of seeds for anything at this starting point. I have lots and lots of seeds left over for the next pass and now I know better as far as the individual seeds and which plants will germinate at approximately which rate. When growing cannabis I would germinate individual seeds in paper towel to figure out what is next. I would baby those plants. That doesn't work when you're dealing with this many plants and simply playing a numbers game to see what pops up and what doesn't it. The seeds are cheap enough.

Right now I'm trying to figure out the growth characteristics of the various plants to start off with and whether or not I can treat them with benign neglect. Some cannabis plants I grew were ridiculously easy and others were ridiculously painful and I know I'll never grow the painful ones again. Let's see what grows fast and easy here and try to stick with those particular plants simply for my effort of the care and feeding.
 

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
beets need at least (at least) ten inches, carrots need at least 12-16 inches, potatoes take 14-16 inches, onions need 10-12 inches at least...and to get a meaningful amount of return, they need to be in a bed at least 2 feet by two feet, they all spread laterally as well as downward. you would only get one or two potatoes or onions out of a 5 gallon bucket, maybe 4 or 5 carrots, probably 3 or 4 beets..so you can grow them in 5 gallon buckets, but you won't get much return, much better to grow root veg in a bed outside, if you want more than just a few
 

testtime

Well-Known Member
beets need at least (at least) ten inches, carrots need at least 12-16 inches, potatoes take 14-16 inches, onions need 10-12 inches at least...and to get a meaningful amount of return, they need to be in a bed at least 2 feet by two feet, they all spread laterally as well as downward. you would only get one or two potatoes or onions out of a 5 gallon bucket, maybe 4 or 5 carrots, probably 3 or 4 beets..so you can grow them in 5 gallon buckets, but you won't get much return, much better to grow root veg in a bed outside, if you want more than just a few
Thank you very much. In my reading I learned that root vegetable plants will produce far more tops and far less roots in a high nitrogen environment. But I actually want to continuously harvest those tops over a period of time so I don't mind that I'm just going to be getting a bunch of tops on the indoor pass while I have my standardized nutrition regime for the whole room. But when I go outside it will all be different.

This looks like a good start for companion plant information:


I also have a variety of warm weather versus cold weather plants which is great for me since I live in Washington State and I need to figure out which cold weather plants will overwinter here. I also have a variety of long day versus short day plants so I'll have to separate them if I plan on letting them go a full cycle indoors in some manner that I can do a continuous harvest of the short day while waiting for the long day to mature.

I like the fact that the majority of my herbal plants will act as insect repellers and that dill grows like crazy while simultaneously not blocking the light for anything else so I can plant it everywhere even though I'm not going to actually use the vast majority of it.
 

testtime

Well-Known Member
beets need at least (at least) ten inches, carrots need at least 12-16 inches, potatoes take 14-16 inches, onions need 10-12 inches at least...and to get a meaningful amount of return, they need to be in a bed at least 2 feet by two feet, they all spread laterally as well as downward. you would only get one or two potatoes or onions out of a 5 gallon bucket, maybe 4 or 5 carrots, probably 3 or 4 beets..so you can grow them in 5 gallon buckets, but you won't get much return, much better to grow root veg in a bed outside, if you want more than just a few
I'm not doing any potatoes right now because the top is poisonous and the nutrient value of a bit of starch for that amount of space is just insane inside.

Not doing any onions because I can buy a bag of those once a month. They don't have to be fresh.

But for when I go outside I'd like some advice concerning planting beds versus the soil I already have underneath.

I live on the tip of Washington State. When the Canadians invade us I am on the front line. Of course they invade us all the time cuz I'm right next to a tourist town and the boats bring them in. Big ferries come and bring those Canadians into invade that town.

My backyard gets about a 50-ft by 50-ft patch of sunlight from around 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.

My backyard is much bigger than that but the cedars tower over the house and block the sun from the vast majority of it. And I am not cutting those cedars down, I love them.

We get rain 3 days a week. The air will always be humid. I have to choose my plants on that aspect as well unless I'm willing to direct infrared heaters at particular plants.

I can rent a tiller and run it across that patch for a bit and amend the soil. This is very good soil from a nutrient perspective but it's a bit wet most of the time. Once it is covered with a aerated greenhouse environment I will be able to control the top moisture.

I can put in boxes of raised garden beds as well and drop whatever combination of soil and compost. I could separate the two with a weed barrier and some plastic or I could let the plants just go through to the real ground.

All this will be under some type of half hoop greenhouse enclosure. Not that high. High enough for me to stand in the center and not kill myself when I lean to an edge and I am short.

Choices.

That deeper ground is going to be wet and that ground is going to be filled with nutrients. If I let the roots go through that ground I'll never have to water the top again unless I'm just trying to add a specific nutrient to a specific plant.

I will have plants specific to this environment. While I am growing random seeds right now I will track down the appropriate seeds for my climate zone. If I fall in love with a particular plant I'll set up whatever environment I need for it indoors but I'm going to avoid that whenever possible.

I am also going to target plants that can handle approximately the same pH values and nutrition requirements so they can share areas. But I'll toss the herb plants everywhere so they can act as the insect repellers assuming they don't harm the plant on putting them with.

Any suggestions concerning the planting beds versus the local dirt versus a combination?
 

testtime

Well-Known Member
beets need at least (at least) ten inches, carrots need at least 12-16 inches, potatoes take 14-16 inches, onions need 10-12 inches at least...and to get a meaningful amount of return, they need to be in a bed at least 2 feet by two feet, they all spread laterally as well as downward. you would only get one or two potatoes or onions out of a 5 gallon bucket, maybe 4 or 5 carrots, probably 3 or 4 beets..so you can grow them in 5 gallon buckets, but you won't get much return, much better to grow root veg in a bed outside, if you want more than just a few
You mentioned 5 gallon buckets. There will be no 5 gallon buckets. In the case of this one and only indoor grow I assume I will have fabric boxes that are separated into 1 ft by 1 ft by 1 ft segments.

That will give me both containment and ease of management and I will never try to move them. My back won't handle that. So I will have to settle into a design and accept whatever it is. That's why I have all these initial questions because once it's going it ain't moving.

I understand drainage and root bound and air trimming of the roots from my cannabis growing days.

So I expect no root bottoms from my root vegetables on this path. But I do expect some tomatoes and peppers and things that grow vertically is long as I give them enough nutrients and water and air.
 

drsaltzman

Well-Known Member
Here's what I ran into besides all my best intentions:
Started out wanting to do 16 one square foot plots in a 4x4.
Soon found it to be impossible.
So I downsized to 9 pots.
That soon became overgrown.
Veggies just LOVE it in the tent (most of them anyway). They are going to shoot up even better than outside because the starting environment is better than a cold Spring around here (and up by you).
Trust me I was gung ho but the reality beat me down. A room is much better than a tent to try and do what you want to do.
I ended up with two cucumber vines, two tomato plants, two egpplants, plus one cayenne.
Then as the eggplants took off, I had to cull one of those. Just not enough room. Same with the tomato.
Watering and pruning (and hand pollinating cucumbers) became too difficult.
Finally decided it wasn't worth the effort of three months of lights, feed, care etc... for 8 eggplants or 20 tomatoes.
I'm gonna let them finish out.
But any veggies indoors going forward will be strictly chilis. Maybe cucumbers. They do very well.
Maybe microgreens too.
But standard vegetable garden fare is tough to make it worthwhile.
You'll spend 3 months (or more) growing maybe one month of food.
This is my experience and you have more room than I opted for so maybe you can do better.
But my best advice is scale back. You're going to have to anyway.
 

testtime

Well-Known Member
I'm not sure if you read the whole thread before responding. I thank you for your advice and I am quite aware.

90% will be gone in a month. Maybe more. Maybe sooner. It doesn't matter. This is an experiment that I am enjoying and I have time for.

I love waking up in the morning and unzipping that tent and getting that blast of heat and sunlight. I just killed the cabbage and the spinach, failure to thrive, and started spreading things out. All of this is just to get me familiar with a variety of different plant growth styles and requirements because all my previous growing was strictly cannabis.

That meant I controlled the environment for a few variables and s*** just worked. It doesn't work that way when you are trying to do any variety of anything and I am learning.

I'm not looking for months of food. I'm looking to avoid going to drive an hour to get a couple of bucks of fresh vegetables and a couple packs of smokes. That is a financial win in itself based on what occasional vegetables I would like to eat And a huge win on the amount I smoke. I just planted two different types, one common Virginia tobacco and the other one specially bred to grow in Alaska. The Alaskan one might actually be a perennial in my default Washington environment.

And when that experiment is done I will move it all outside. The tent will only be used for very limited starts if required and any very specific indoor growth such as really hot peppers. I just put down the ghost pepper seeds.
 

drsaltzman

Well-Known Member
I did read your post.
You asked for advice.
My advice is scale back. Grow only what you absolutely love.
Wishing you all the luck in the world and hoping to see some pics of how it goes.
 

testtime

Well-Known Member
I did read your post.
You asked for advice.
My advice is scale back. Grow only what you absolutely love.
Wishing you all the luck in the world and hoping to see some pics of how it goes.
Good enough, thank you very much. But I actually have to also grow what my wife wants. And that lettuce is such a waste of space but it is growing so nicely and she really wants it so I'm not going to kill it.

I will post occasional pics.
 

testtime

Well-Known Member
I did read your post.
You asked for advice.
My advice is scale back. Grow only what you absolutely love.
Wishing you all the luck in the world and hoping to see some pics of how it goes.
You want pics? Here's the next.

The cabbage got killed for failure to thrive along with a couple others, the broccoli got thinned to one per as well as the turnips but the turnips don't look very good in my environment. I think it's too wet for them. Of course the lettuce is growing like crazy because it's lettuce and it will grow well anywhere under almost no light. I'm letting the carrots stay bunched together for now, along with the large beets that will never produce beets. But I want to see what kind of tops they produce. I'll thin out half of them and let the others grow. Assuming I'll get zero carrot roots but my goal is the carrot tops, and I just germinated a bunch of Detroit beets rather than the huge long beets (which I can't possibly give enough depth to inside) along with ghost peppers and tobacco. The ghost peppers will stay inside forever, they want a really hot environment. I have two different types of tobacco, one standard Virginia gold and another that was bred in Alaska to survive Alaskan winters. The Alaskan will be planted all along the perimeter of my property and I'll never pay for tobacco again.

I just ordered two multi bar lights. They are nothing more than strips of LEDs on wires which I will have to hang or tape into place. Should show up today. They claim 80 watts in four bars which may be 20 watts per bar. I doubt it. I'll check on my watt meter.

I should be able to position this on metal baker racks for three or four levels of growth, each with a different number of light bars. I'm okay if the lights are 3 inches away from the plants. I have enough plants of the same size to be able to lay it out evenly. At that point I'll be able to tell the true light requirements because I'll set up the same plants on different amounts of light and see the difference in a few weeks.

PXL_20211122_180324357.jpgI will set up a series of shelves outside the tent for a variety of short low light plants and that will give me space to work for the larger ones to build the trellis and set up the floor.
 

testtime

Well-Known Member
You want pics? Here's the next.

The cabbage got killed for failure to thrive along with a couple others, the broccoli got thinned to one per as well as the turnips but the turnips don't look very good in my environment. I think it's too wet for them. Of course the lettuce is growing like crazy because it's lettuce and it will grow well anywhere under almost no light. I'm letting the carrots stay bunched together for now, along with the large beets that will never produce beets. But I want to see what kind of tops they produce. I'll thin out half of them and let the others grow. Assuming I'll get zero carrot roots but my goal is the carrot tops, and I just germinated a bunch of Detroit beets rather than the huge long beets (which I can't possibly give enough depth to inside) along with ghost peppers and tobacco. The ghost peppers will stay inside forever, they want a really hot environment. I have two different types of tobacco, one standard Virginia gold and another that was bred in Alaska to survive Alaskan winters. The Alaskan will be planted all along the perimeter of my property and I'll never pay for tobacco again.

I just ordered two multi bar lights. They are nothing more than strips of LEDs on wires which I will have to hang or tape into place. Should show up today. They claim 80 watts in four bars which may be 20 watts per bar. I doubt it. I'll check on my watt meter.

I should be able to position this on metal baker racks for three or four levels of growth, each with a different number of light bars. I'm okay if the lights are 3 inches away from the plants. I have enough plants of the same size to be able to lay it out evenly. At that point I'll be able to tell the true light requirements because I'll set up the same plants on different amounts of light and see the difference in a few weeks.

View attachment 5033363I will set up a series of shelves outside the tent for a variety of short low light plants and that will give me space to work for the larger ones to build the trellis and set up the floor.
Here are the shelves set up to start off with. The lights ended up being 7 watts per strip, 16 inches per strip. They cost 28 bucks for this for 4 bars so it was a buck a watt which is double what I typically pay for a watt but I got highly flexible placement.

LED Plant Grow Light Strips, 4Pcs 80W Full Spectrum Plant Lights Bars for Indoor Plants 192 LEDs with Auto ON/ Off Timer, 10 Dimmable Levels, 3 Modes Grow Lamp for Seeding & Germination(16 Inches) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B096FG812X/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_PAR9DGGAHRKPR98P0WFE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Obviously that 80 watts is a lie but I expected that.

I have four bars on the bottom, 28 watts in about 1.5 ft², and two bars on each other level. Maybe enough for starts, maybe not. I'll put all my starts in there along with kitchen herbs and some lettuce for sandwiches and we will see. If the lettuce grows it'll be a win on saving floor space in the tent anyway.

This will be placed in my living area next to the kitchen. My wife will be able to just cut off from the plants in there when cooking.

Does anyone recommend any particular manufacturer for these types of simple bar lights? I'd like to get some more powerful ones.

It's got mylar space blanket taped in three sides and velcroed around the front. I can throw another on it for warmth and near darkness in the room so it doesn't reflect on the TV.

It will heat up in there. I will T-Rex tape mosquito netting on the sides for some airflow, and then see if I actually need an exhaust fan pulling air from the floor to the top. At that point I'll drill holes in the plastic shelves to allow the airflow to come from the bottom.

On the other hand I like to keep it cold in that area for the most part and was planning on putting in some seedling mats with a temperature control to warm it up. The lights themselves warm up the shelf so it might be a matter of putting in floor mat spongy material cut to fit to spread out the hot spots and at that point I won't need the seedling mats even on very cold days.

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drsaltzman

Well-Known Member
That’s a great setup for lettuces and anything micro.
Also for starts.
I’d run with the light you have first just to see which do or don’t like it.

As you are finding, some plants will thrive, some will fail.
That setup for your wife should be slamming though.
And more productive than one of those little kitchen counter herb type units.
 

testtime

Well-Known Member
That’s a great setup for lettuces and anything micro.
Also for starts.
I’d run with the light you have first just to see which do or don’t like it.

As you are finding, some plants will thrive, some will fail.
That setup for your wife should be slamming though.
And more productive than one of those little kitchen counter herb type units.
And here is it filled up just as an initial layout to figure out what I can fit in it and if it maintains environment.

This is not the final kitchen area rack. I want a metal baker rack that has 5 shelves adjustable that goes much wider and higher but these lights would not be enough and it was being used for friends giving anyway and I wanted to set this stuff up NOW and start proving out the lights.

I'll hang a real 180 watt over the top level from the ceiling. I'll hang a mylar sheet in front of it down to the plants just to block the light from hitting people's eyes and reflect the light back to the plants, but I won't block room airflow.

Remember my handle. Always testing.

Those beets in the back fell over in 12 hours. It looks like they reached for a weak light and got tired. The humidity environment is the same since it had a cap on it. It maintained about 65% in the enclosure but outside the tray. There isn't any airflow in the capped tray except for the holes on the top in the previous environment. There is no airflow in this environment and I will add some swirling wind in there. When I move to the baker's rack airflow will be easy but right now these shelves block it and I'm not drilling through them if I don't have to. Temperature was about the same. The lights maintained the enclosed shelves ranging from 75 to 80. I will not need any warming mats.

I've done this type of environment for mushrooms and cannabis so I'm tuned to what needs to be done.

Everybody else in the enclosure seems good. Those are a variety of new starts and the beets grew twice as fast. It it seems way too early to need transplant for these though. They should be not root bound. I now start seeds in much larger 2x2s.

They are on the edge of a two light strip shelf. If they don't recover in a couple of days I'll move them to the four strip shelf in the center and see if they recover.

Do deep Detroit beets just lean over anyway and it's fine or is it something I need to pay attention to? Have they just crossed the threshold where their weight is too much and I need to support them? I shouldn't need to support beets, right? On the other hand I know the Swiss chard is supposed to fall over, grow some internal support, and then keep then keep growing. And they are very closely related.

When I go to the full rack I'd like the bottom three shelves to be enclosed in mylar and humidity controlled. I want the top two shelves to be open for the higher plants that don't need the humidity to be there, and the top level will have access to the much brighter light hanging from the ceiling.

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drsaltzman

Well-Known Member
Root veggies like beets, carrots, parsnips damp off pretty easily. That could be the problem with your beets.

One observation: some of the vegetation looks light green, maybe it's the lights? Or it could be overwatering, the soil looks very wet.

Looks like a fun project.
I'm done with the veggie tent concept myself.
The ROI was too low except for cukes and chilis in my case.

But you have got me thinking about a simple set up for greens and herbs ... and come Spring ... veggie starts.
Then I can keep 2x4 tent for chilis and the 4x4 for cannabis.
 
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