Nutrient question

[Nice-guy-eddy]

If I'm going straight from cloning to bloom fir hydroponics. Do I necessarily need nitrogen in my nutrients?

 

[Lizard0420]

Pretty sure you need little nitrogen the hole time but I’m probably wrong

 

[Nice-guy-eddy]

What do you all recomend for a 2 part nutrient with as little of nitrogen as possible.

 

[OldMedUser]

What do you all tecomend for a 2 part nutrient with as little of nitrogen as possible.

As pot plants begin the flowering stage, (the Stretch), they are going thru a big growth spurt and need lots of every nute. They need extra N and P but after the stretch, 3 or 4 weeks after 12/12 light begins, their need for those drops. They need some but want higher K than either.

With a 2-part nute it's harder to control how much N they get so a 3-part lets you adjust the level of nutes better. After the stretch I switch to feeding Lucas Formula style using no Grow and 1ml/L of Micro for every 2ml of Bloom. I have been using the AN pH Perfect 3-part for the last 5 years or so with some Big Bud for a bloom booster. Some Epsom Salts are good for extra magnesium and sulfur.

You sound like you don't know lots about growing our sacred plant so I suggest spending some time in the new growers section reading up on some of the basics if you want a good crop. Should be some pinned posts about the care and feeding of pot.

Good luck!

 

[Nice-guy-eddy]

As pot plants begin the flowering stage, (the Stretch), they are going thru a big growth spurt and need lots of every nute. They need extra N and P but after the stretch, 3 or 4 weeks after 12/12 light begins, their need for those drops. They need some but want higher K than either.

With a 2-part nute it's harder to control how much N they get so a 3-part lets you adjust the level of nutes better. After the stretch I switch to feeding Lucas Formula style using no Grow and 1ml/L of Micro for every 2ml of Bloom. I have been using the AN pH Perfect 3-part for the last 5 years or so with some Big Bud for a bloom booster. Some Epsom Salts are good for extra magnesium and sulfur.

You sound like you don't know lots about growing our sacred plant so I suggest spending some time in the new growers section reading up on some of the basics if you want a good crop. Should be some pinned posts about the care and feeding of pot.

Good luck!


I've been using the lucas formula as well. I was using gh flora duo, but just made the switch this last run. I'm having nitrogen toxicity issues the last few runs. Ppm is at 1100 at most in week 6 of flower. Ph is at 6.2 with ro water along with cal mag. My last run I went half strength the whole flowering period at 600 ppm and still got nitrogen toxicity. Makes no sense

 

[OldMedUser]

What is your humidity like? We have really low RH here especially in winter and what I though was N-Tox was really Toxic Salts Buildup, TSB. With low RH, (talking 20% or even less sometimes), the plants are drinking way more water than usual and also pulling up more nutes than they can process so the extra gets stored in their leaves. Around the middle of flower the fans start going all yellow/brown and getting thick and crispy. Normal yellowing they go go thin and soft. It would work it's way up the plants until by cropping time even the small sugar leaves in the buds were burnt too.

I was running DWC and had to keep the PPM at 500 or less when the RH was low. Took me a few years to figure out what was really going on. I only ever used RO or distilled water too. Finally noticed when I flowered in the warmer months it wasn't such a problem then read about VPD and finally clued in.

I won't use GH products. They have never been supportive of pot growers and now since they are part of the Scotts/Monsanto/Bayer/Hawthorn/Roots group of GMO companies they sure as hell don't deserve any of our money. AN is Canadian, has built in additives and has always been loud and proud about who they make their nutes for. Their base nutes are often cheaper than GH and only suckers buy all those expensive supplements. I like the Big Bud and have used it since Dr. Hornsby invented it. More K than P at 0-15-35 with 10%S, 20 amino acids and ascorbic and citric acids. Half a dose a week before flipping to flower then more at the flip. I've done a couple side-by-side grows with and without it and it really buds up better with it.

 

[Nice-guy-eddy]

What is your humidity like? We have really low RH here especially in winter and what I though was N-Tox was really Toxic Salts Buildup, TSB. With low RH, (talking 20% or even less sometimes), the plants are drinking way more water than usual and also pulling up more nutes than they can process so the extra gets stored in their leaves. Around the middle of flower the fans start going all yellow/brown and getting thick and crispy. Normal yellowing they go go thin and soft. It would work it's way up the plants until by cropping time even the small sugar leaves in the buds were burnt too.

I was running DWC and had to keep the PPM at 500 or less when the RH was low. Took me a few years to figure out what was really going on. I only ever used RO or distilled water too. Finally noticed when I flowered in the warmer months it wasn't such a problem then read about VPD and finally clued in.

I won't use GH products. They have never been supportive of pot growers and now since they are part of the Scotts/Monsanto/Bayer/Hawthorn/Roots group of GMO companies they sure as hell don't deserve any of our money. AN is Canadian, has built in additives and has always been loud and proud about who they make their nutes for. Their base nutes are often cheaper than GH and only suckers buy all those expensive supplements. I like the Big Bud and have used it since Dr. Hornsby invented it. More K than P at 0-15-35 with 10%S, 20 amino acids and ascorbic and citric acids. Half a dose a week before flipping to flower then more at the flip. I've done a couple side-by-side grows with and without it and it really buds up better with it.

View attachment 5044747

My humidity is average around 50 percent.

 

[OldMedUser]

My humidity is average around 50 percent.

That's not bad. I'd try running at 600 and don't up it if you don't get old fan leaves going yellow. Higher during the stretch and add extra light during it too and CO2 if you can. They really respond well to all that as they are trying to grow so fast. Things go back to normal once stretch is over.

While I was doing DWC in Rubbermaid tubs I would top up with RO every 3 days then check the ppm and add small amounts of nutes to get it back up to my target range. Doing this I noticed the drop was up to 4X as much in the middle of stretch but would go back to normal once it was over. I would never change my nutes until after the stretch then tried not changing nutes at all. To drop the ppm after the stretch I'd use a drill pump to remove part of what was in there then feed Lucas style with the BB until about week 6 then just let them feed off that so by the time it was ready to chop it would be down to about 300ppm. I'd always chop the big ripe colas first then let it go for a week or 2 more before cropping the rest so the smaller colas and buds could ripen more so wanted some feed in there for that.

Now I'm growing semi-organic using ProMix HP for my base with organics mixed in and supplementing with AN 3-part. Getting into growing autos outside in the summer and worked nice last year so doing more plants outside next summer. The more I grow outside the less I have to do indoors and can concentrate on breeding fem seeds instead. I'm way up north in Alberta so photo plants don't have time to finish but autos were done in the middle of Sept this year. Only 32" tall but gave me 6oz each.