Lavender, Gnats and Neem Oil?

ShawnSunshine

Well-Known Member
Good News:

Made the Bits Brew and watered my plants and left some bits on top.


Bad news:

Gnats have completely infested my potting soil.

Opened the bag and 4 or 5 flew out.


So I'm going to have to go outside and treat all of my soil and leave it out there, and I have a lot of soil to check to make sure before I bring it back in the house.

Going to do the same thing with the mosquito bits drenching and mixing bits in with the soil before I even attempt to bring it back in.

Because now I have a whole bunch of gnats flying around again.

I may have to invest into some yellow strips.

And I'm definitely going to have to keep spraying the leaves of my plants with lavender oil because they sure do seem to like to hang out by the plants because these are adults trying lay eggs.


Just when i thought then had them under control. Wow.

But here's what I've treated so far.

IMG_20220302_231424.jpgIMG_20220302_231432.jpgIMG_20220302_231437.jpg
 

Driver733

Well-Known Member
Good News:

Made the Bits Brew and watered my plants and left some bits on top.


Bad news:

Gnats have completely infested my potting soil.

Opened the bag and 4 or 5 flew out.


So I'm going to have to go outside and treat all of my soil and leave it out there, and I have a lot of soil to check to make sure before I bring it back in the house.

Going to do the same thing with the mosquito bits drenching and mixing bits in with the soil before I even attempt to bring it back in.

Because now I have a whole bunch of gnats flying around again.

I may have to invest into some yellow strips.

And I'm definitely going to have to keep spraying the leaves of my plants with lavender oil because they sure do seem to like to hang out by the plants because these are adults trying lay eggs.


Just when i thought then had them under control. Wow.

But here's what I've treated so far.

View attachment 5095272View attachment 5095273View attachment 5095274
LOL, I knew you had way more gnats than you thought. Not to nitpick your methods, but my understanding is putting the mosquito bits in the soil can cause mold to grow on the bits. As you know, mold is our mortal enemy, so I would recommend keeping them out of your cannabis soil and just make tea. It is critical to keep treating the soil every time you water, and keep that going for the next few weeks.

Again, in my opinion, you cannot fight these without the yellow sticky traps. I went for weeks without seeing a flying gnat, yet I had 15-25 dead gnats in the traps every day. Without the traps, I would've thought the situation was under control when it was actually a full blown infestation.

Lastly, don't waste the mosquito bits on unused potting soil - pasteurize that with boiling water, that way you kill anything else that might be in there (i.e. spider mites, thrips, etc.). To be sure, let the soil completely dry out after pasteurizing before using it.

Good luck.
 

ShawnSunshine

Well-Known Member
LOL, I knew you had way more gnats than you thought. Not to nitpick your methods, but my understanding is putting the mosquito bits in the soil can cause mold to grow on the bits. As you know, mold is our mortal enemy, so I would recommend keeping them out of your cannabis soil and just make tea. It is critical to keep treating the soil every time you water, and keep that going for the next few weeks.

Again, in my opinion, you cannot fight these without the yellow sticky traps. I went for weeks without seeing a flying gnat, yet I had 15-25 dead gnats in the traps every day. Without the traps, I would've thought the situation was under control when it was actually a full blown infestation.

Lastly, don't waste the mosquito bits on unused potting soil - pasteurize that with boiling water, that way you kill anything else that might be in there (i.e. spider mites, thrips, etc.). To be sure, let the soil completely dry out after pasteurizing before using it.

Good luck.
Thank you so much for the help.

I completely sealed up all those bags to make sure that there was no way for the gnats to get in and out now so.. we'll have to take care of the soil tomorrow evening as I have an appointment.

A few notes about those yellow strips.

Which yellow strips work the best and what's in them?

Is it like sticky tape with attractant or something like that?

Thanks for looking out.
☮☮☮
 

Rurumo

Well-Known Member
Thank you so much for the help.

I completely sealed up all those bags to make sure that there was no way for the gnats to get in and out now so.. we'll have to take care of the soil tomorrow evening as I have an appointment.

A few notes about those yellow strips.

Which yellow strips work the best and what's in them?

Is it like sticky tape with attractant or something like that?

Thanks for looking out.
☮☮☮
If you look on amazon, there are tons of different sizes and shapes of those sticky sheets. The ones I bought say they are non-toxic and that they are just adhesive, no pesticides, but honestly, they are all from China and they can say whatever they want. I think they are fine though. I always keep at least one in my tent just to check once in a while to see if any infestations are developing. Everyone deals with fungus gnats differently. I keep the dunks on hand, but when I first see a few gnats on the trap, I just mix up some neem spray-5 ml neem oil to 1 liter water with some yucca extract for a wetting agent. Then I just spray the surface of the soil well. I do that every other day for a week, and usually that hammers down the gnats for the rest of the grow. Neem is great for spraying your leaves with too once every week or two during Veg as part of an IPM program, just never get neem on your buds in flower because it ruins the flavor. Totally off subject, but a wonderful and inexpensive product to have on hand for IPM is Southern Ag Garden Friendly Fungicide. It's totally natural, just a bacillus amyloliquefaciens culture, and it's a great root treatment (add it to your nutrient solution once per week) as well as a foliar spray during Veg-it's a plant growth promoting Rhizobacteria and it's much cheaper than most of the bacterial culture products out there-I would take a $7.99 bottle of it over an $80 bottle of Mammoth P any day. A great, inexpensive IPM program during veg would be to spray the plants with Neem and that Southern Ag GFF on alternate weeks. Sorry got off topic, kind of!
 

Driver733

Well-Known Member
Thank you so much for the help.

I completely sealed up all those bags to make sure that there was no way for the gnats to get in and out now so.. we'll have to take care of the soil tomorrow evening as I have an appointment.

A few notes about those yellow strips.

Which yellow strips work the best and what's in them?

Is it like sticky tape with attractant or something like that?

Thanks for looking out.
☮☮☮
I use these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WWZLFGL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A 40 pack is on sale right now for only $8.99 (less than the price of a 20 pack for some reason).

Keep in mind, my understanding is the eggs can go dormant in bagged soil, as long as it stays somewhat moist. My rule used to be open the bag and let it dry out for a few months in the garage before using it, but that doesn't work in the winter. The eggs can survive down to -40 F (I think, don't quote me), so that is the reason for pasteurization. I broke my rule last fall and used a bag of Ocean Forest that had not dried out yet, big mistake. I am also not convinced that drying out alone is sufficient, I think I had an infestation last year but didn't realize it was serious because I lacked the yellow sticky traps. I would see one here and there flying around and didn't think it was a big deal, until I started getting serious nute deficiencies due to root damage. Now I don't trust any soil unless pasteurized, just to be sure.
 

Kerowacked

Well-Known Member
Its the color thats the attractant, yellow for gnats, blue for thrips. Probably just smear some ky or vaseline on bright yellow paper to hang over the plants. They are not hard to catch.
 
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PJ Diaz

Well-Known Member
Lastly, don't waste the mosquito bits on unused potting soil - pasteurize that with boiling water, that way you kill anything else that might be in there (i.e. spider mites, thrips, etc.).
Yeah, you'll also kill all of your beneficial insects, bacteria, and microbes. That's the last thing you want to do with soil. If it was coco, I could see pasteurization being positive, but not in a soil-type medium.
 

ShawnSunshine

Well-Known Member
Yeah, you'll also kill all of your beneficial insects, bacteria, and microbes. That's the last thing you want to do with soil. If it was coco, I could see pasteurization being positive, but not in a soil-type medium.
Yeah, that's my concern,I have a whole bunch of beneficial bacteria and fungi in the soil already, so hopefully, the mosquito bits tea, will be enough with a few applications, to rid me of any new gnats.

Trying to avoid boiling my soil.
 

PJ Diaz

Well-Known Member
Yeah, that's my concern,I have a whole bunch of beneficial bacteria and fungi in the soil already, so hopefully, the mosquito bits tea, will be enough with a few applications, to rid me of any new gnats.

Trying to avoid boiling my soil.
Spinosad based pesticides will kill them, but it will also kill other beneficial insects. The BTI in mosquito bits will help, but may not eliminate them completely. With gnats you have to hit them from multiple angles. Frankly, so long as you don't have a major infestation, there are worse problems to have.
 

ShawnSunshine

Well-Known Member
Spinosad based pesticides will kill them, but it will also kill other beneficial insects. The BTI in mosquito bits will help, but may not eliminate them completely. With gnats you have to hit them from multiple angles. Frankly, so long as you don't have a major infestation, there are worse problems to have.
Yeah, like moldy buds!

I've been cleaning the house extra clean, getting rid of potential mold,mildew,dust build up.

Things looking hopeful today ☮
 

PJ Diaz

Well-Known Member
Yeah, like moldy buds!

I've been cleaning the house extra clean, getting rid of potential mold,mildew,dust build up.

Things looking hopeful today ☮
Get Southern Ag Garden Friendly Fungicide, and spray your plants with it at week 3 of flowering and it will help to resist mold and mildew. It contains a bacteria which eats fungi. Citric acid is a cheap easy and natural way to clean your surrounding areas as well. You can also use it to kill bugs on your cannabis. Just get some critic acid powder from your local health food store in bulk for cheap, and mix with water. I forget the ratio, but it's not much, I think like a tsp/liter.
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
Get Southern Ag Garden Friendly Fungicide, and spray your plants with it at week 3 of flowering and it will help to resist mold and mildew. It contains a bacteria which eats fungi. Citric acid is a cheap easy and natural way to clean your surrounding areas as well. You can also use it to kill bugs on your cannabis. Just get some critic acid powder from your local health food store in bulk for cheap, and mix with water. I forget the ratio, but it's not much, I think like a tsp/liter.
I think @xtsho says 2-3 tsp per quart or liter, and some plants didn't like 3 tsp per quart, so try 2. That's what I thought he said at least. I haven't tried it yet.

That's for foliar though for other critters. I wouldn't use that much as a drench. It'd probably kill a bunch of microbes.
 

ShawnSunshine

Well-Known Member
I think @xtsho says 2-3 tsp per quart or liter, and some plants didn't like 3 tsp per quart, so try 2. That's what I thought he said at least. I haven't tried it yet.

That's for foliar though for other critters. I wouldn't use that much as a drench. It'd probably kill a bunch of microbes.
The citric acid will kill microbes or the garden safe fungicide?
 

ShawnSunshine

Well-Known Member
I think @xtsho says 2-3 tsp per quart or liter, and some plants didn't like 3 tsp per quart, so try 2. That's what I thought he said at least. I haven't tried it yet.

That's for foliar though for other critters. I wouldn't use that much as a drench. It'd probably kill a bunch of microbes.
I've been pH my water with lemon and lime juice, so far my primrose and peace lily like that.

It's citric acid too.☮
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
Yes as a spray. I didn't mean to imply using it as a drench.
I didn't think so. Just didn't want anyone to get confused. Peace man.

I've still got a box with 6 QB96's in it that I couldn't help myself when they had the Black Friday sale a year ago. I got the idea from you. It's gonna be fun when I finally bust them out.
 

Driver733

Well-Known Member
This is from Penn State University Extension Service:

How to Pasteurize Medium and Sterilize Containers and Tools

To increase the survival rate for seedlings during germination, containers and tools should be sterilized and pasteurized or sterile soilless mixes should be used as growing medium.

Seeds need adequate moisture and optimum temperatures for germination, but these conditions also encourage the spread of disease. To increase the survival rate for seedlings during germination, containers and tools should be sterilized and pasteurized or sterile soilless mixes should be used as growing medium.
Damping-off
One potential problem for gardeners who germinate seeds at home is damping-off, a fungus disease that infects seedlings. It is caused by pathogens such as Pythium, Rhizoctonia and Fusarium and its symptoms include the browning of stems at the soil line. Stems then shrivel, plants topple over, and seedlings die. Infection spreads rapidly, killing most of the seedlings in a tray or flat. Although it is more of a problem on over-watered seedlings in poorly drained soils, even seedlings in medium that drains well can become infected. Thus, it is important to start clean by disinfecting all tools and flats, as well as pasteurizing potting medium or using sterile soilless media to reduce the possibility of damping-off. For more information, refer to the fact sheet entitled: Damping-off of Seeds, Seedlings, and Cuttings .
Pasteurizing Medium
Potting media mixed by home gardeners should be pasteurized to kill weed seeds, soil-borne insects, and pathogens. Pasteurization destroys most organisms and is done by applying heat until the soil reaches 180oF (82oC) for 30 minutes. When temperatures are raised above 212oF (100oC), most of the soil borne organisms are killed and the soil is considered sterile. Gardeners can pasteurize homemade potting soils using a kitchen oven; however, a long-lasting earthy odor can develop in the oven. To pasteurize soil, preheat the oven to 180oF. Then fill a pan with about 4 inches of moist soil and cover it with aluminum foil. Insert a candy or meat thermometer to monitor temperature and place the pan in the oven. When the thermometer reads 180oF, leave the pan in the oven for 30 minutes longer, then remove it and allow the soil to cool. Seeds can then be sown in the soil, or it can be used as a transplant medium for seedlings.
Sterilize Containers and Tools
Efforts to pasteurize soil are in vain if contaminated tools, seed flats, or pots are used. Each should be disinfected by soaking it for 30 minutes in a 10% solution of chlorine bleach (one part bleach and nine parts water). Tools and containers should then be rinsed and allowed to dry before using them again.
Pre-sterilized Potting Soil or Soilless Mix and Containers
Instead of pasteurizing soil in the kitchen, most gardeners have chosen to purchase either presterilized, ready-mixed potting soil or sterile soilless mix. In addition, new plastic or fiber disposable trays and sterilizing previously used containers.

Prepared by Phyllis Lamont, consumer horticulture center library coordinator, Kathleen M. Kelley, assistant professor of consumer horticulture and James C. Sellmer, associate professor of ornamental horticulture

My two cents: If you google search you will find plenty of commercial gardening operations that all pasteurize the soil. That's why I started doing it. I looked for potting soil that was already pasteurized, I couldn't find any on the market.

They don't seem to be worried about killing any beneficial microbes. Neither am I.

Incidentally, I am having the best results I've ever had, after pasteurizing the soil. But that's totally anecdotal.
 

ShawnSunshine

Well-Known Member
So...I got all the Organic Soil Treated and I poured the Mosquito Bits tea and dumped all my soil, packed it into my ice cooler.

This way it gets a good drench..

Going to let that sit for a while.

The only soil that I have left is the jiffy seed starter mix which is all still dry but they might be in there and then I have some vermiculite too which I have to open and investigate to see if they got into there so hopefully I'll get this handled.

Everything is going to get mixed up anyways to even amounts.

The plan is to put the seeds starting mix soil couple of inches on top of the cannabis so that it has a good medium to germinate in and the rest will be a mixture.

☮☮☮IMG_20220303_192258.jpg
This is from Penn State University Extension Service:

How to Pasteurize Medium and Sterilize Containers and Tools

To increase the survival rate for seedlings during germination, containers and tools should be sterilized and pasteurized or sterile soilless mixes should be used as growing medium.

Seeds need adequate moisture and optimum temperatures for germination, but these conditions also encourage the spread of disease. To increase the survival rate for seedlings during germination, containers and tools should be sterilized and pasteurized or sterile soilless mixes should be used as growing medium.
Damping-off
One potential problem for gardeners who germinate seeds at home is damping-off, a fungus disease that infects seedlings. It is caused by pathogens such as Pythium, Rhizoctonia and Fusarium and its symptoms include the browning of stems at the soil line. Stems then shrivel, plants topple over, and seedlings die. Infection spreads rapidly, killing most of the seedlings in a tray or flat. Although it is more of a problem on over-watered seedlings in poorly drained soils, even seedlings in medium that drains well can become infected. Thus, it is important to start clean by disinfecting all tools and flats, as well as pasteurizing potting medium or using sterile soilless media to reduce the possibility of damping-off. For more information, refer to the fact sheet entitled: Damping-off of Seeds, Seedlings, and Cuttings .
Pasteurizing Medium
Potting media mixed by home gardeners should be pasteurized to kill weed seeds, soil-borne insects, and pathogens. Pasteurization destroys most organisms and is done by applying heat until the soil reaches 180oF (82oC) for 30 minutes. When temperatures are raised above 212oF (100oC), most of the soil borne organisms are killed and the soil is considered sterile. Gardeners can pasteurize homemade potting soils using a kitchen oven; however, a long-lasting earthy odor can develop in the oven. To pasteurize soil, preheat the oven to 180oF. Then fill a pan with about 4 inches of moist soil and cover it with aluminum foil. Insert a candy or meat thermometer to monitor temperature and place the pan in the oven. When the thermometer reads 180oF, leave the pan in the oven for 30 minutes longer, then remove it and allow the soil to cool. Seeds can then be sown in the soil, or it can be used as a transplant medium for seedlings.
Sterilize Containers and Tools
Efforts to pasteurize soil are in vain if contaminated tools, seed flats, or pots are used. Each should be disinfected by soaking it for 30 minutes in a 10% solution of chlorine bleach (one part bleach and nine parts water). Tools and containers should then be rinsed and allowed to dry before using them again.
Pre-sterilized Potting Soil or Soilless Mix and Containers
Instead of pasteurizing soil in the kitchen, most gardeners have chosen to purchase either presterilized, ready-mixed potting soil or sterile soilless mix. In addition, new plastic or fiber disposable trays and sterilizing previously used containers.

Prepared by Phyllis Lamont, consumer horticulture center library coordinator, Kathleen M. Kelley, assistant professor of consumer horticulture and James C. Sellmer, associate professor of ornamental horticulture

My two cents: If you google search you will find plenty of commercial gardening operations that all pasteurize the soil. That's why I started doing it. I looked for potting soil that was already pasteurized, I couldn't find any on the market.

They don't seem to be worried about killing any beneficial microbes. Neither am I.

Incidentally, I am having the best results I've ever had, after pasteurizing the soil. But that's totally anecdotal.
Actually I did pasteurize the used soil that I got just not the brand new ones.

I definitely clean all of my pots and my tools but I absolutely should be diligent even more so about that.

I got a whole bunch of free used pots and a couple of pots that were $1.50 and I made sure to completely sanitize everything.

Appreciate this response because I learned some new things.

When I'm done with the growing season I'm going to pasteurize all of that soil and reuse it again, I think as long as you keep pasteurizing the soil it's beneficial to use it over a few times.

But I wonder when the point comes when you can no longer use the original soil that you used?
 
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