New leaves are very thin and clawing

McShnutz

Well-Known Member
Im using a mixture of coc fibre white and and black pear worm humus, perlite pre fertilised 14-16-18
Ooooook. Um, let's pick this apart from the top. You plant has some clawing due to high availability of N. Nitrogen is most available in soil from pH 6 - 7.3 so we know your in that range.
Next would be phosphorus which in high amounts reduces the plant's ability to take up required micronutrients, particularly iron and zinc, even when soil tests show there are adequate amounts of those nutrients in the soil.
Potassium is high but heavily used in all phases of growth. But it's worth noting that Soil with a potassium level that is too high can prevent plants from uptaking other nutrients. For example, plants may be deprived of zinc and iron when potassium levels are unbalanced.

PH is always a factor not only the ingoing pH of the water but also any minerals it may contain. High calcium or bicarbonate will fix your soil with a high pH over time. Regardless of what the substrates pH is.

If your confident about the quality and content of your water and the pH is within range, I'd be inclined to believe you have too much phosphorus in the soil. Over time the phosphorus causes acidification if not taken up similar to sister elements. Also, overwatering and cold temperatures affect the availability and uptake of phosphorus.

You can expect to see micronutrients becoming deficient if not corrected. Flushing isn't usually recommended but I may advise it for this instance. All 3 of your macros are easily leeched away in pots.
You may see improvement after the flush. I don't know for sure, I've never used anything like that.

The nutrient charged perlite is your cause. If you can transplant I may go that route depending on how extensive your roots may be.
 

Ċikku

Member
Ooooook. Um, let's pick this apart from the top. You plant has some clawing due to high availability of N. Nitrogen is most available in soil from pH 6 - 7.3 so we know your in that range.
Next would be phosphorus which in high amounts reduces the plant's ability to take up required micronutrients, particularly iron and zinc, even when soil tests show there are adequate amounts of those nutrients in the soil.
Potassium is high but heavily used in all phases of growth. But it's worth noting that Soil with a potassium level that is too high can prevent plants from uptaking other nutrients. For example, plants may be deprived of zinc and iron when potassium levels are unbalanced.

PH is always a factor not only the ingoing pH of the water but also any minerals it may contain. High calcium or bicarbonate will fix your soil with a high pH over time. Regardless of what the substrates pH is.

If your confident about the quality and content of your water and the pH is within range, I'd be inclined to believe you have too much phosphorus in the soil. Over time the phosphorus causes acidification if not taken up similar to sister elements. Also, overwatering and cold temperatures affect the availability and uptake of phosphorus.

You can expect to see micronutrients becoming deficient if not corrected. Flushing isn't usually recommended but I may advise it for this instance. All 3 of your macros are easily leeched away in pots.
You may see improvement after the flush. I don't know for sure, I've never used anything like that.

The nutrient charged perlite is your cause. If you can transplant I may go that route depending on how extensive your roots may be.
In transfering for autos at this stage ok ? And if so what soil do you recomend ?
also by flushing all you mean is watering a lot in a short ammount of time right ?
And if I do flush when should I start nutrients?
Sorry for bombarding you with questions and thanks a lot for the help
 

Ċikku

Member
In transfering for autos at this stage ok ? And if so what soil do you recomend ?
also by flushing all you mean is watering a lot in a short ammount of time right ?
And if I do flush when should I start nutrients?
Sorry for bombarding you with questions and thanks a lot for the help
Also ive been using the same soil since day 1 how have the problems with nutes started now ?
 

McShnutz

Well-Known Member
In transfering for autos at this stage ok ? And if so what soil do you recomend ?
also by flushing all you mean is watering a lot in a short ammount of time right ?
And if I do flush when should I start nutrients?
Sorry for bombarding you with questions and thanks a lot for the help
Autos are fussy little bitches, and easily stressed. They're very sensitive to high nutrient levels.
I didn't know it was an auto. No don't remove it from the current soil. Run clean water 3x's the amount of soil. PH adjust the water first.

After the flush let the soil dry out until the pots weight feels light. Then pH water again. But you shouldnt have to water it for a good week after the flush.

You very likely may have too much nutrient and it's locking out.
 

McShnutz

Well-Known Member
I reuse all my soil, for years now, and they have to be refortified. But I keep logs of everything so that's what I reference when months have passed and adjustments are needed.
 
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