School me on your lighting experience

Drop That Sound

Well-Known Member
If you don't like your power bill now, wait till you fork out big time for LED fixtures (which they then tell you to run lower to be more efficient, lol!), then also need a radiant heater that uses more watts than the light, and have to run it during lights on period too.

Your bill will be just as high, after you empty your wallet, lol!
 

dankydank1973

Active Member
I have the same situation here in northern Alberta. Cool basement/crawlspace and low rh most of the year. The room is insulated but 2 of the walls are concrete with 1/2" and chipboard over it so are always a little chilly and the floor is smooth painted concrete too. If I try to hit rh as recommended by VPD charts the floor and walls sweat. By Feb it will be around 45F in the greater part of the basement and my room air is drawn in from there thru cheesecloth filters. It's 7x9x6.5'h so about a 5x5 grow spot.

I have a variety of HID lights mostly older magnetics but 3 - 600W digitals. And a Light Rail 4.0 to extend the range of a bulb. Make a 400 do the work of a 600 and a 600 work as good as my 1000W. Only uses 9W itself.

I do have a little COB light for about 2x2 of my 2x4 veg tent here on the main floor and a DIY 11 LED bulb fixture using 9W bulbs with the globes popped off to cover the other side but not well. Very limited spectrum in those bulbs and I have a few 2700K mixed in with the 5000K ones. The COB grows not bad.

View attachment 5213612

:peace:
I think im actually using the same cob? Light? What are your thoughts on it? I've been thinking of upgrading to one, large, led?
 

Attachments

dankydank1973

Active Member
If you don't like your power bill now, wait till you fork out big time for LED fixtures (which they then tell you to run lower to be more efficient, lol!), then also need a radiant heater that uses more watts than the light, and have to run it during lights on period too.

Your bill will be just as high, after you empty your wallet, lol!
I'm really feeling this... I've been debating throwing a 250 mh in there and calling it a day!
 

Drop That Sound

Well-Known Member
Might as well go with CMH! They make CMH retrofit bulbs that will work with standard ballasts, so you don't really have to upgrade to a whole new light fixture (digital square wave 315, etc) BTW.


Here... I *think* this is the one you would be looking for, runs at 230 watt, but puts out more lumens & better spectrum than traditional 250, and last way longer. Should screw right in a 250w MH:



Screenshot1.png
 

hillbill

Well-Known Member
At the moment I have and old Philips 250 CMH in a tent with 3 Boards at 300w total. Very inefficient compared to the Boards but it has plenty of Infrared and especially significant UV.
Don’t tell anyone at RIU. :weed:
 

hillbill

Well-Known Member
I ran them a lot long ago. They made plants very happy and sticky but never produced like HPS. Using them together was great. Not the power of modern LEDs but that spectrum, turns Transitions glasses dark in a few seconds also.1666270749466.jpeg
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
I think im actually using the same cob? Light? What are your thoughts on it? I've been thinking of upgrading to one, large, led?
Mine has 5 COBs on it. It has no company name and calls itself a 1500W but only pulls 200W from the wall, (checked with a power meter), and might do a decent job in a 2x2' area.

New1500wLED.JPG

LEDLables2.JPG

:peace:
 

farmingfisherman

Well-Known Member
I'm in a bedroom. Theres only one duct in there and it's at the opposite end of the house so it doesn't provide much heat really.
I layer plastic on the floor and put up a matt insulation on the walls and use a space heater in there. My house stays around 64f through the winter. The room stays around 68-70 with lights out. 78-80f lights on (1600watts of COOLED hid lighting).
The house is really inefficient. Doors leak. Windows leak. It's on a crawl so the floors are always cold. I can straight up feel cold drafts in the house. It sucks. Furnace runs damn near all day when the real winter weather sets in.
Insulation in the floor as well might help keep the pots warmer.
 

dankydank1973

Active Member
Just heating dry outside air for your home will dramatically lower humidity.
Great thought. I use a humidifier inside the tent, however I know I shouod be hunidifying the room itself. Problem being I run cooled hid lights which sucks air from the room through the lights and into the next room (there's matching closets in these side by side rooms so it was an easy solution). I run this fan full blast it moves air. I think trying to humidy the room it would all just get sucked through the lights and not make it to the bottom tent vents.. however I'm going to try it.
 
Last edited:

dankydank1973

Active Member
Might as well go with CMH! They make CMH retrofit bulbs that will work with standard ballasts, so you don't really have to upgrade to a whole new light fixture (digital square wave 315, etc) BTW.


Here... I *think* this is the one you would be looking for, runs at 230 watt, but puts out more lumens & better spectrum than traditional 250, and last way longer. Should screw right in a 250w MH:



View attachment 5215110
I dont have a 250 mh at the moment. I was thinking about getting one. Cmh put out good heat?
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
Insulation in the floor as well might help keep the pots warmer.
Good tip. I use 1" styrofoam insulation under my pots to keep them warmer. Damn that stuff is expensive these days but a layer of it under the tent would sure help. The bio-herd in the pots likes it warm and become practically inactive at below 70F or so.

I'm planning to experiment with supplying air to the pots with a little aquarium air pump and either a stone or some of that plastic air line for fish tanks wrapped in a circle near the bottom. Just a couple of pots at first to see if it does anything at maybe 15 minutes every hour or two.

:peace:
 

farmingfisherman

Well-Known Member
Good tip. I use 1" styrofoam insulation under my pots to keep them warmer. Damn that stuff is expensive these days but a layer of it under the tent would sure help. The bio-herd in the pots likes it warm and become practically inactive at below 70F or so.

I'm planning to experiment with supplying air to the pots with a little aquarium air pump and either a stone or some of that plastic air line for fish tanks wrapped in a circle near the bottom. Just a couple of pots at first to see if it does anything at maybe 15 minutes every hour or two.

:peace:
Great thinking about just cutting whatever size you need for the pots. I wrap it in tape to make them me durable.
 

PJ Diaz

Well-Known Member
Might as well go with CMH! They make CMH retrofit bulbs that will work with standard ballasts, so you don't really have to upgrade to a whole new light fixture (digital square wave 315, etc) BTW.


Here... I *think* this is the one you would be looking for, runs at 230 watt, but puts out more lumens & better spectrum than traditional 250, and last way longer. Should screw right in a 250w MH:



View attachment 5215110
The retrofit lamps are cool, I used to run a 400w mastercolor in a mag ballast about 10 years ago. I think I still have the lamp and ballast in a corner somewhere. The retrofits don't have quite the same advantage as the newer square wave ballasts, which really optimize power.

Personally I run bar type LEDs in the warm months, and a combo of CMH and LED qb's in the cooler months. Works well for my situation. It's been warm here lately, but the CMH is coming out soon..
 
Top