Hi
@mikothegreen. Well, I picked up my Hyper Phresh from a friend and its almost useless. He has put rivets through to hold a crappy air filter and also some 8" ends so it looks like a silent one but isn't..
Anyway, got an AC-Infinity Cloudline S8 (paid for by him) so going to be using that. I have found some tutorials which is good but none that incorporate a rotary encoder
The wiring and code for just he ESP32 are from
@zen0n:
Hey guys, finally got my esp32 properly controlling my 6" AC Infinity Cloudline EC motor fans and figured I would lay it all out for you. As the title suggests I'm an idiot and just getting back into electronics, so be kind if i'm off on terminology haha. Most of the hard lifting for this...
www.rollitup.org
View attachment 5248627
So I pop the MOSFET as you used inside the sale as per above and below:
View attachment 5248628
Following these instructions:
Inside the panel, with it oriented like above, disconnect red, yellow and black wires on the right hand side. The 3 bottom right wires in this pic. Run the red wire to VOUT+ on the mosfet, run the yellow wire to VOUT- on the mosfet. I made a jumper from the ground wire on the terminal block, connected it and the black wire to gnd pin on the mosfet. Only had white hookup wire, but you can see the ground pin on the mosfet has 2 wires coming out of it. Make sure you're jumpers are long enough so the mosfet will tuck into the corner nicely. I dabbed some hot glue on the live points on the backside of the mosfet pcb.
Leave the fan aside for bench testing or roll the dice and seal er up! 
Wiring up the ESP32:
The yellow wire is the pwm signal from the fan, and black is the ground. Note the notches in the connector for pin orientation. Looking at the pic now, the connector housing is female, but the pins are male. So I may have misgendered this connector. I'll monitor twitter for someone educate me on gender, I'm sure it will trend hahaha Anyhow, knocking these pins out and moving the wires around is easy enough with a precision screwdriver if you're color anal.
And I managed to bang out a fritzing diagram for the esp side, don't judge, first one
In the diagram I've included both a circuit with the optocoupler (yellow wire coming from esp) or just straight wired to the gpio (green wire). Of note the resister in the opto circuit is 100ohm. The dpi settings on my desktop frigged up the pin labels in the image, but red is the 3.3v rail, blacks are grounds and yellow is GPIO4 and green is GPIO5 (but use whatever pwm applicable pins you want, use
esp32 pinout ref to find out what will work for you.
View attachment 5248629
The yellow wire is the pwm signal from the fan, and black is the ground. Note the notches in the connector for pin orientation. Looking at the pic now, the connector housing is female, but the pins are male. So I may have misgendered this connector. I'll monitor twitter for someone educate me on gender, I'm sure it will trend hahaha Anyhow, knocking these pins out and moving the wires around is easy enough with a precision screwdriver if you're color anal.
And I managed to bang out a fritzing diagram for the esp side, don't judge, first one
In the diagram I've included both a circuit with the optocoupler (yellow wire coming from esp) or just straight wired to the gpio (green wire). Of note the resister in the opto circuit is 100ohm. The dpi settings on my desktop frigged up the pin labels in the image, but red is the 3.3v rail, blacks are grounds and yellow is GPIO4 and green is GPIO5 (but use whatever pwm applicable pins you want, use
esp32 pinout ref to find out what will work for you.
ESPHome and Home Assistant programming
* Again, assuming you know you to add esphome add on, and create a new blank esp32 device. I find it convienent to build the empty config and upload right away just to enable OTA updates going forward.
On the esp32 we will be using the ledc output to control the pwm duty cycle. That it's called ledc might seem a little off, but just know it's essentially a library for controlling pwm signals.
Edit your esp32 device to bring up the yaml editor, and paste the following
of note: make sure inverted reads true, or as it sounds 100% will be off, and 0 will be full speed. Make sure id is unique. frequency of 1000 seemed to work well enough for me.
speed_count will give you X amount of steps between 0 and 100, 10 seems to match up pretty well with what AC infinity was using before. Make sure output in the fan section matches the id from the output section. name is the display name you'll see in HA, id is it's internal name essentially.
change the pin to whatever you're using.
YAML:
output:
- platform: ledc
pin: GPIO5
id: intake_fan_op
inverted: true
frequency: 1000
fan:
- platform: speed
output: intake_fan_op
name: "Tent intake fan"
speed_count: 10
id: intake_fan
validate then upload to your esp.
Just wondering how I would incorporate your Rotary Encoder into this process now that I have come accustomed to it!
