Autopots issues still

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Marcorfl

Well-Known Member
still not fixed. Being autopots ive read that lower EC is the way forward so I lowered overall ec and upped calmag from 75% to full strength 1ml per litre with an ec of 1.1 but no signs of improvement…
Any advice on steps to take would be appreciated. Flipped to flower a couple days ago as they as getting big so hoping to get this sorted soon
 

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go go kid

go go kid

Well-Known Member
are you waiting for the leaves to turn green again? if so, it wont happen, you may see a tiny bit of greening up, but there not going to sudenly become green again, its the new growth that will be new / green and lush

i would wait untill the plants are growing properly b4 starting flower, you can change back to growth lighting hours with minimal shock, then give them a prune, cut the tops of each of the top growing heads out, this will stop the rapid hight growth and give you more side growth and buds.
this will give you time to sort out whats wrong before you start the flowering stage
 
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Marcorfl

Well-Known Member
My ph is normally between 5.7 and 6 in my tank and when measured in the bottom of the autopot tray it’s normally consistent, although i have measured ph of the coco as theres no runoff. I am using the lumatek ats 300w pro dimmed to 75% (400ppfds) and i have grown in the same environment with autopots before without these issues
 
coreywebster

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
Marcorfl said:
My ph is normally between 5.7 and 6 in my tank and when measured in the bottom of the autopot tray it’s normally consistent, although i have measured ph of the coco as theres no runoff. I am using the lumatek ats 300w pro dimmed to 75% (400ppfds) and i have grown in the same environment with autopots before without these issues
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OK..

So what's changed since previous grows that had no issues??

The light?

What's the air temp like?
 
coreywebster

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
I'm gona run through some potential problems.
Save me waiting for a reply.


zinc def is a possibility.

If it were mg it would start lower and work higher imo .

Problem is these issues could be because of the ph been out or because the lights too intense for the air temperature, running too high DLI .

If you Google light burn you'll see why I'm putting that as a possible. Look at slow light burn.
Also Google zinc def.

Sometimes we can end up chasing our tail for deficiencies but it's actually the light being too intense or too many hours while the air temp is too low or other parts of the equation aren't up to keeping up with the intense light.
85f in veg would be good

Another possible is your going overboard with calmag while not providing enough base nutrients and it's locking out.
Personally I don't use it because my tap water is good.

Obviously I don't know enough detail right now so hence me giving possible causes
 
M

Marcorfl

Well-Known Member
coreywebster said:
I'm gona run through some potential problems.
Save me waiting for a reply.


zinc def is a possibility.

If it were mg it would start lower and work higher imo .

Problem is these issues could be because of the ph been out or because the lights too intense for the air temperature, running too high DLI .

If you Google light burn you'll see why I'm putting that as a possible. Look at slow light burn.
Also Google zinc def.

Sometimes we can end up chasing our tail for deficiencies but it's actually the light being too intense or too many hours while the air temp is too low or other parts of the equation aren't up to keeping up with the intense light.
85f in veg would be good

Another possible is your going overboard with calmag while not providing enough base nutrients and it's locking out.
Personally I don't use it because my tap water is good.

Obviously I don't know enough detail right now so hence me giving possible causes
Click to expand...
I am using a bluelab ph pen which I’ve recently calibrated so hopefully that isn’t the case. My air temps with lights on are 21/23 degrees C and 17/18 lights out (18/6) with 50/55% humidity. I’ve seen lots of people run lower ec for the whole grow with autopots hence 1.2ec and full calmag but i see the potential for lockout. Hopefully that answers your questions. Thank you for the help thus far
 
M

Marcorfl

Well-Known Member
I am using 60/40 coco clay balls with 2” pebbles at the bottom. Last time i ran autopots i used dna coco with cork
 
M

Marcorfl

Well-Known Member
MedicinalMyA$$ said:
I mainly use Autopots and found that lower EC was bullshit. In my experience it's the opposite.
Also you may benefit from higher temps, say 25-28C.
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Ok i will try upping my temps. Only reason for lowering ec was due to smaller ones seemed worse than the bigger two but that could be coincidence I suppose, what sort of ec would you be looking at feeding these
 
M

MedicinalMyA$$

Well-Known Member
Marcorfl said:
Ok i will try upping my temps. Only reason for lowering ec was due to smaller ones seemed worse than the bigger two but that could be coincidence I suppose, what sort of ec would you be looking at feeding these
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Mainly around 2.0 EC sometimes even higher is where I ended up with happy plants. Depended on the strain. Forgot to say I use a peat-heavy soil mix so results might not be similar in coco.
Basically I had similar issues to yours several times and I tried lowering the EC (diluting the res) and that never worked so I would try upping the feed, which always worked. Nowadays I start at 2.0 as a default and if deficiencies are seen I up the nutrient strength by about 1/4 to 1/5, then again about every 2 weeks all the way to near the end of flower. If I see burning the nutes get diluted a bit.
 
M

Marcorfl

Well-Known Member
MedicinalMyA$$ said:
Mainly around 2.0 EC sometimes even higher is where I ended up with happy plants. Depended on the strain. Forgot to say I use a peat-heavy soil mix so results might not be similar in coco.
Basically I had similar issues to yours several times and I tried lowering the EC (diluting the res) and that never worked so I would try upping the feed, which always worked. Nowadays I start at 2.0 as a default and if deficiencies are seen I up the nutrient strength by about 1/4 to 1/5, then again about every 2 weeks all the way to near the end of flower. If I see burning the nutes get diluted a bit.
Click to expand...
Ok mate thanks for that I’ll try upping the ec to 1.6 and see how they respond. Should I keep light intensity low whilst they recover
 
coreywebster

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
Marcorfl said:
I am using a bluelab ph pen which I’ve recently calibrated so hopefully that isn’t the case. My air temps with lights on are 21/23 degrees C and 17/18 lights out (18/6) with 50/55% humidity. I’ve seen lots of people run lower ec for the whole grow with autopots hence 1.2ec and full calmag but i see the potential for lockout. Hopefully that answers your questions. Thank you for the help thus far
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I generally veg around 1.2ec without calmag
Flower peaks around 1.6ec.

Your temps are too low for veg, led lacks the radiant heat of hps ..
Trust me raise them substantially.
The plants can't make use of those light levels at those temps.
Higher air temp will increase leaf temp which will increase metabolic rate
 
M

Marcorfl

Well-Known Member
coreywebster said:
I generally veg around 1.2ec without calmag
Flower peaks around 1.6ec.

Your temps are too low for veg, led lacks the radiant heat of hps ..
Trust me raise them substantially.
The plants can't make use of those light levels at those temps.
Higher air temp will increase leaf temp which will increase metabolic rate
Click to expand...
Ok mate I’ll go with that and see how things go from there. Calmag dosing ok at 1ml per L?
 
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