replacement power cord
- Thread starter fishwater
- Start date
compassionateExotic
Well-Known Member
What started the fire ?
get urself a c grade fire extinguisher for each grow room ( I suggest by grow room door and it Mounted there for easy access ), enviromental monitor and if u can an auto turn on extinguisher by temp. I have those mounted where main light controller,amp breaker and deh are. Yes a lil costly but can also save ya a huge life breaking mistake .
kanexfire.com
def suggest even in kitchen but exp grow to have one for every room. Key is class c
get urself a c grade fire extinguisher for each grow room ( I suggest by grow room door and it Mounted there for easy access ), enviromental monitor and if u can an auto turn on extinguisher by temp. I have those mounted where main light controller,amp breaker and deh are. Yes a lil costly but can also save ya a huge life breaking mistake .
Kanex Fully Automatic Ceiling Mounted Extinguishers - Kanex Fire Blog
Blog is about Kanex Fully Automatic Ceiling Mounted Extinguishers. About Where to install? How to Operate, etc. Read more..
kanexfire.com
def suggest even in kitchen but exp grow to have one for every room. Key is class c
formularacer
Well-Known Member
One cord was start of fine, replace the unit.
brogro
Well-Known Member
That is scary, I put smoke alarm in mine.What started the fire ?
get urself a c grade fire extinguisher for each grow room ( I suggest by grow room door and it Mounted there for easy access ), enviromental monitor and if u can an auto turn on extinguisher by temp. I have those mounted where main light controller,amp breaker and deh are. Yes a lil costly but can also save ya a huge life breaking mistake .
Kanex Fully Automatic Ceiling Mounted Extinguishers - Kanex Fire Blog
Blog is about Kanex Fully Automatic Ceiling Mounted Extinguishers. About Where to install? How to Operate, etc. Read more..
def suggest even in kitchen but exp grow to have one for every room. Key is class c
Mumbeltypeg
Well-Known Member
Mate I hope you got onto mars hydro about that! I have had two of their fc6500’s melt cords on me. It was due to bad wiring to the connectors from the factory.. and all they offered was to send replacement connections and I could rewire them myself.
I had spent nearly $10000 with them also, not dealing with them any more.
I went through and rewired all connections myself on all my lights after that.
Dodgy fucks.
I had spent nearly $10000 with them also, not dealing with them any more.
I went through and rewired all connections myself on all my lights after that.
Dodgy fucks.
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Billytheluther
Well-Known Member
Damn thats sketchy, how long have you ran these? I set up a ts 2000 a few days ago, it smelt burnt for a while, i was kinda concerned if that was normal.
Cant notice the smell anymore with the plants and filter though..
Cant notice the smell anymore with the plants and filter though..
Mumbeltypeg
Well-Known Member
One lasted six months, the second one a year.. easy to check, just check the connections, mine had a cap you could unscrew and pull back to look
After all that and you're wondering about replacing the power cord? I'd be thinking this thing almost burned down my house. Seriously, there's a fault somewhere and I wouldn't plug that thing back in until I figured out what caused it.
Jimski
Well-Known Member
Guys I dare say anyone who is running a mars light is in danger. There is way more than enough internet chatter on this situation.
So anyone wanna fix this? I do not have any mars lights but I know how to set up a circuit protection system and how to balance loads. My last job before disability was running an automotive restoration and modification shop. I am one of those fix things knows things guys. e
All I need is some math numbers and how it is wired. No changes will be made in the light as that voids warranties and if it catches fire they blame me and you for " fixing " it. We can devise a simple heat sense and current sense system to shut off the power to the light.
Now back to cords melting. Would love to see some of the setups and physical measurements on gage of power cords and ratings on power consumption. Also If an electrical system that provides the power is not checked you yourself can cause this problem. Let me explain.
Electricity follows the path of least resistance but it also shares current flow in a parallel system. All current flow is based on the resistance of the circuit and if resistance in one leg of the circuit is impeded or decreased the actual problem could be 30 feet from your lights.
Case in point. My next door dude had an hvac issue where it cooked an outside compressor and was eating step up capacitors like french fries. A repeat problem like this means you got the wrong guy working on your hvac system.
Or your car
Or your water heater. Remember whatever place you go for service some company hired the biggest idiot for the lowest cost possible.
Back to hvac electrical. I go right for the panel. 200amp service and marked! Shut of power and find scorch marks on controlled side of circuit breaker. The loose connection lowered available voltage ( pressure ) of the circuit. Guess what your light will not care like his compressor did not care. Both have work to do and until the circuit is broken ( fire ) the current will flow. Now it is just a math problem. If you lower pressure flow goes up UNTIL it exceeds the protection device or exceeds the capacity of the circuit conductors holding it together. If you are running everything through the same wall outlet and the same power strip you greatly reduce your protection of your circuits.
Until the mars thing is figgured out I would suggest the following:
Match the circuit protection device with the expected load. If your circuit draws 8 amps and it is on a circuit that can provide 30 amps the light becomes the circuit protection device.
Check available circuit voltage at panel, at outlet, at plug on power strip. Any drop needs to be stopped. Wires get hot on high demands and the terminals can get loose in the panels in the walls and even a bent tang on the power strip plug in can cause problems.
In any event if anyone wants help with this project reach out and I will tell you how we will stop this.
So anyone wanna fix this? I do not have any mars lights but I know how to set up a circuit protection system and how to balance loads. My last job before disability was running an automotive restoration and modification shop. I am one of those fix things knows things guys. e
All I need is some math numbers and how it is wired. No changes will be made in the light as that voids warranties and if it catches fire they blame me and you for " fixing " it. We can devise a simple heat sense and current sense system to shut off the power to the light.
Now back to cords melting. Would love to see some of the setups and physical measurements on gage of power cords and ratings on power consumption. Also If an electrical system that provides the power is not checked you yourself can cause this problem. Let me explain.
Electricity follows the path of least resistance but it also shares current flow in a parallel system. All current flow is based on the resistance of the circuit and if resistance in one leg of the circuit is impeded or decreased the actual problem could be 30 feet from your lights.
Case in point. My next door dude had an hvac issue where it cooked an outside compressor and was eating step up capacitors like french fries. A repeat problem like this means you got the wrong guy working on your hvac system.
Or your car
Or your water heater. Remember whatever place you go for service some company hired the biggest idiot for the lowest cost possible.
Back to hvac electrical. I go right for the panel. 200amp service and marked! Shut of power and find scorch marks on controlled side of circuit breaker. The loose connection lowered available voltage ( pressure ) of the circuit. Guess what your light will not care like his compressor did not care. Both have work to do and until the circuit is broken ( fire ) the current will flow. Now it is just a math problem. If you lower pressure flow goes up UNTIL it exceeds the protection device or exceeds the capacity of the circuit conductors holding it together. If you are running everything through the same wall outlet and the same power strip you greatly reduce your protection of your circuits.
Until the mars thing is figgured out I would suggest the following:
Match the circuit protection device with the expected load. If your circuit draws 8 amps and it is on a circuit that can provide 30 amps the light becomes the circuit protection device.
Check available circuit voltage at panel, at outlet, at plug on power strip. Any drop needs to be stopped. Wires get hot on high demands and the terminals can get loose in the panels in the walls and even a bent tang on the power strip plug in can cause problems.
In any event if anyone wants help with this project reach out and I will tell you how we will stop this.
Jjgrow420
Well-Known Member
I've run a mars for 2 years with no issues. I think people don't think about the fact of WHO is having problems.... Guys who run a million cords on 100 power bars and extension cords..... People do dumb shit. Add a bunch of electricity and well...
I think it's a Darwin's law kinda thing....
I think it's a Darwin's law kinda thing....
amneziaHaze
Well-Known Member
If your socket cant handle 3kw you need a new house
Mumbeltypeg
Well-Known Member
Both mine were due to poor wiring at the connections, they admitted it was a know fault and that they had addressed the issues in newer models. So take your opinion, go forth and multiply with it.
TheWholeTruth
Well-Known Member
That makes no sense, if your tent set on fire and it all burnt down like you said wouldnt the light have damage too . Not sure how much just getting a new cord would help with that.
Jimski
Well-Known Member
In the event of a loose connection the problem would manifest at the weakest point. I have not seen a light diagram but it would have to be a basic parallel circuit. Unknown how the inner connections are made but a slide on connection needs to be appropriate for load. IMO 500 watt parallel circuits should be positive lock with enough circuit capacity from contacts to stop hot spots. A simple IR flir can trace hot circuits in both ac and dc circuits.
Jjgrow420
Well-Known Member
My point exactly......