Help needed

Greenthumbgrower1986

Well-Known Member
Hi all, growing some autos in ecothrive Coco under 20/4 light schedule.my first time using Coco as usually use soil. The plant in question is coming up to week 4 and pistols have started showing. I'm using shogun Coco nutes and tap water left out for 24 hours prior. Over the last week I have been giving 1.5ml of A and 1.5ml of B (per litre) and watering until around 10% run off. Once mixed has a ppm of 550-600 and I have been phing down to 5.8/5.9. Yesterday I noticed some slight tip burn so reduced feed down to 1.2ml of a+b per litre. Today I have noticed that leaves are starting to yellow(very early stages that isn't that noticeable) but wanted to rectify it asap. So checked run off and was a whopping 6.8ph ppm 320. Not sure if I did the right thing, but I decided to flush it to reduce the pH and then gave a light feed at the end. It is in a 4l pot and have had to put nearly 50l of 5.8 pH water through it just to get it down to 6.1.. I very new to coco so unsure why the pH is rising so much.i know I've probably done more harm then good by doing this but it appeared it could be lock out as the leaves are yellowing yet tips burnt. My first thought was to up the feed but then the burnt tips indicate not to and I thought maybe bringing the Coco pH down may help
 
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Here is the plant in question.
 

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I'm not familiar with your nutes, but 550 ppm is not too high.
Are you feeding every day to substantial run off?
Do you ever give plain water?
No need to check the pH or ppm's of your run off as long as you feed daily with correct pH and ppm........I never check my run off for anything.
With 4 ltr pots you should be feeding multiple times a day........at least twice.
Your flushing probably messed up the calcium and magnesium in the coco.
It's not necessary to let your water sit out for 24 hours.
 
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Sounds like you are doing a lot right tbh. You have to consider all factors of your grow. Tempature, light intensity, humidity etc. If any of these are off it will affect all the other factors. Hope this makes sense. Make sure that your light intensity is not too high. 600ish par right now should be about maximum. Later in flower you can bump it up some. As to why your ph is rising probably you have hard water with a lot of calcium. What is the ppm of the water before nutes? Anything over 200ppm is hard water. Might want to invest in a cheap ro system. Also might ph to 5.5 and see if that helps. Good luck.
 
Sounds like you are doing a lot right tbh. You have to consider all factors of your grow. Tempature, light intensity, humidity etc. If any of these are off it will affect all the other factors. Hope this makes sense. Make sure that your light intensity is not too high. 600ish par right now should be about maximum. Later in flower you can bump it up some. As to why your ph is rising probably you have hard water with a lot of calcium. What is the ppm of the water before nutes? Anything over 200ppm is hard water. Might want to invest in a cheap ro system. Also might ph to 5.5 and see if that helps. Good luck.
Straight from tap my ppm is 239. Haven't thought of light intensity. I'm running a 200w led at 50%. I'll have to check the pr ratings
 
You're starving your plants. You don't need to test the run off PH in coco. You only have to check the run off EC. You should never flush your plants in coco. You should feed until the last day. Until the day of harvest. Increase the A & B to 1.6ml per liter. Your plants are starving. If the ppm is going in at 550-600 and coming out at 320 then that means she is starving. You don't have a lockout. You are just underfeeding. If your run off EC comes out lower than the input EC then that means she is eating all of the nutrients you are putting in which indicates that you are not feeding enough.
 
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You're starving your plants. You don't need to test the run off PH in coco. You only have to check the run off EC. You should never flush your plants in coco. You should feed until the last day. Until the day of harvest. Increase the A & B to 1.6ml per liter. Your plants are starving. If the ppm is going in at 550-600 and coming out at 320 then that means she is starving. You don't have a lockout. You are just underfeeding. If your run off EC comes out lower than the input EC then that means she is eating all of the nutrients you are putting in whi
Definitely nute burn only the burnt tips but maybe under feeding on the other nutes.
I used an organic top dress recently and I'm having some issues myself.
Lime green leaves with burnt tips ,also curling down.
ch indicates that you are not feeding enough.
 
My tap is .5ec and 8-9ph. I forget but its as alkaline as can be. I dont vape off chlorene infact I add bleach to my fert to keep sterile. That helps with things like high ph runoff if its due to microbial activity which I like to keep as absent possible. With 1.7ec nutes (maxibloom only) the ph is acidic 5.7-5.8ph.

Feeding frequently helps maintain that in the rootzone. Flushes out bacteria and minerals, things that can cause high ph runoff. Its ok to flush if its light solution at the minimum, not plain water. Things like Florakleen are meant to hook things quite literally on microscopic level to flush out.

I dont know about a ec of 1.2 to runoff of ec .6? Someones said its not possible for it to he lower than inflow but Ive seen it on a hair level. That can help indicate its feeding and wants more but when its this young and not rootbound enough.. Can only go by leafs.

Heres some pics of my first time bringing a plant from seed from overfed/lockout to in range. Your plant would be classic example of the opposite which is easier to fix. Thats why they say start low and slowly work up. Should go from pale to perfection, but tip burn?..

I see tip burn so damn much even in breeder pics and began to think they just happen. Could be genetic but rarely is it because it needs a change in nutes. Thats a bold comment to make but for real, I dont see it discussed often. I think its very common and minor in hydroponics or at least thats all I can speak on only doing dtw coco.

The only other thing is “clawing means N tox” that can be conflicting in hydro again a bold comment to make. I just dont believe it, I have seen it in soil but not hydro. Or at least the supposed effects from it, I get 8 wk clones chopped or 9 wks most the time. Not harsh from N build up.

My debate is how can you get a specific nute overdose from a well balanced diet? It will lock out and die off before the supposed N tox effects like my plant here. Maybe Im just not there yet but after a few years I wouldnt change it once it shows what ec it wants.

The rest is just feeding it with good runoff to keep it refeshes in rootzone. Same way an engine punps in gas/air and exausts it and repeats. Dont let it get too dry, youre better off overwatering than under watering but watch for gutation if humidity gets too high.

Runoff ec should be within .3ec from inflow or it needs more feedings per day with ample runoff. This plant is actually a 1.2ec decreased from 1.7. You just have to wing it each time to find the sweet spot unless its clones. If clones I would start with the same ec and end with same ec. Ive grown a pheno non stop for 2 yrs this way.

You run it like a engine because not much you can do once the ph goes too high or low in runoff. Runoff ph I would say yea something wasnt quite right but wouldnt freak out unless its outside of the 5.5-6.5 ph range. Its just a tool to help diagnose what went wrong Im still new to that so feel free to research what low or high ph could mean.

Ive been checking runoff ec since the beginning days its simple. Even with everything perfect I can get plants/clones that just want to die at harvest. I get healthy ones that can go weeks longer at harvest too.

With 1.7ec its super acidic with my tap but below 1.2ec it starts to easily get alkaline from minerals ph buffers etc in tap. So my runoff ph with this one was a tad alkaline. In range though.
 

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