2 questions, and pics

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
The more I read the more Im confused as the symptoms can be nute burn, lack of nutes, lack of mg and ph fluctuation!!!!!!!!!
....and that's the problem, you're trying too hard, throwing stuff at them which can do more harm than good. What's with the molasses? I've never used molasses on cannabis and grow fabulous plants (most times.) :D Ever grown a tomato? Use the same drills you would use to grow tomatoes on pot. This is a weed, treat it as such. Again, if you don't know exactly what the NPK and micros are that your plants are receiving, it's a guessing game.

What's the source of Mg your plants are receiving?

As an aside, I have seen more noob gardens ruined by the use of AN products and their recommendations. They try to use a Formby approach on a dynamic living thing and it doesn't work, except for their bank account. Plants are not furniture.

Re-read my posts.

UB
 

ManUTDfan

Active Member
Thanks uncle ben again.

Today was watering day. So I decided to stop nutes for now until my ph/ec tester arrives. I flushed the plant well, the run off was so yellow it looked like urine!

For your question on Mg, after flushing my babies, I gave them a lil bit of epsom salt, real tiny bit.
Do you think i did ok by flushing them? the urine colored run off became less aparent (albeit still yellow) and Im holding off nutes for now.
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Thanks uncle ben again.

Today was watering day. So I decided to stop nutes for now until my ph/ec tester arrives. I flushed the plant well, the run off was so yellow it looked like urine!

For your question on Mg, after flushing my babies, I gave them a lil bit of epsom salt, real tiny bit.
Do you think i did ok by flushing them? the urine colored run off became less aparent (albeit still yellow) and Im holding off nutes for now.
Be careful with those nute swings. Plants like to be provided with a constant supply of the 16 essential elements. They're like you and me, we don't fast for 2 days then sit down and consume a 21" pizza. Becoming a master gardener is knowing how to find the perfect balance for maximum plant growth/health and maintaining that balance according to plant REQUIREMENTS, and I capitalize "requirements". For example, a very small seedling that is not bulking up much doesn't need alot of nutrition or water, it just can't process very much. A plant that is the stretch mode, say.....2" a day, does. Usually, "less is more".

Don't know about the yellow runoff. It's either coming from a dye AN is putting in their foods or from your medium or most likely the molasses. If you highly dilute molasses, it takes on a yellowish hue.

What is the brand name of your potting soil? We need to find it if it has a nutritional charge or not.

"Organics" doesn't mean much to me. I have to know what those organics are - peat, coir, compost, manure, composted pine bark, etc.

UB
 

ManUTDfan

Active Member
After today's watering, the little one perked up like I have never seen before, but I think its just the water sge is craving. My soil is mostly peat and composted pine bark. Got it from Ace hardware store. From the sizes of them do you think they require Iguana Juice grow nute? If so, what do you reckon the ppm should read?
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
After today's watering, the little one perked up like I have never seen before, but I think its just the water sge is craving. My soil is mostly peat and composted pine bark. Got it from Ace hardware store. From the sizes of them do you think they require Iguana Juice grow nute? If so, what do you reckon the ppm should read?
I would go to Walmart, Casa dePot or a nursery, and buy a high N complete plant food such as a 30-10-10 or a 18-6-12 and use at a rate of no more than 1 tsp./gallon. Iguana Juice does not contain micros, is an incomplete food, and doesn't contain enough N to really kick up some foliage. At a ratio of 3-1-3, it is a ripoff as are all AN products.
 

ManUTDfan

Active Member
Ok thanks a lot uncle ben. You have been an amazing guru.
I will go check and see to it that I buy a good source nute with high nitrogen concentration.
To keep with promise, here are 3 more pics I took today
 

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Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Ok thanks a lot uncle ben. You have been an amazing guru.
I will go check and see to it that I buy a good source nute with high nitrogen concentration.
To keep with promise, here are 3 more pics I took today
Thanks, happy to help. And thanks for the photos done in natural light, it helps to learn how to read your plants and helps me diagnose.

This is what's weird - the first plant has a nasty case of [FONT=Georgia, Times New Roman, Times, serif]interveinal chlorosis [/FONT]at the lower branches, the others do not. I'm not confident in saying its a Mg deficiency though. Mg chlorosis shows up more as a whitish-yellow leaf tissue surrounding dark green veins [FONT=Georgia, Times New Roman, Times, serif]and sometimes leaf bronzing, BUT, that "look" is usually reflected in the latter stages of the problem. Mg d[/FONT][FONT=Georgia, Times New Roman, Times, serif]eficiencies are first observed on older growth.....[/FONT] starts at the bottom and pretty well stays there or moves to the middle of the plant. All I can suggest is try a food that is high in N, has chelated micros and Mg. If it doesn't have Mg, you could always foliar spray the affected plant with about 1/2 tsp./liter of epsom salts, wait for a few days and see if it corrects the problem. Use a surfactant (spreader-sticker) or the spray will be ineffective. If you can't find a commercial surfactant, use liquid Ivory dish soap (not detergent), about 1/2 tsp./liter.

Caveat to the Mg spray, usually when an "aw shit" occurs to a plant, the leaves never recover, partially OR fully. Look to the health of the new growth to see if you're back on track. Getting back on track is what you're after, damage has been done. Now, if the problem continues as the plant grows, then the "corrective" action was not "correct". Most folks throw so much chit at their plants in a desperate attempt that they add insult to injury. It takes time for a plant to react to a grower's applications.

Good luck,
UB
 

ManUTDfan

Active Member
I came back home today after spending time with my wife's family all day. I was DYING to come back home to check the health of my 2 daughters (Mary and Jane) and from the looks of it Epsom salt and a light flushing seems to have done the trick with the new growth being nice and healthy green. Now for the nutes, do I feed them every watering you reckon? Or every other watering just to be on the safe side? What should be the ppm for their age. check out the new growth. :):):)

p.s. I cut off 2 of the dying yellow leaves
 

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Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Lookin' damn good. I'd feed a little food with every watering.

BTW, what happened to the one with the chlorosis?

As an aside, if you want one of the best editors, for free, it's hard to beat........... http://www.irfanview.com/
 

ManUTDfan

Active Member
Got Blood and Bone meal today. going to use the blood meal as a nitrogen nute for veg. Should I just let it sit on top of the soil (one TBspoon) and then water? Or should I make it into tea?
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Got Blood and Bone meal today. going to use the blood meal as a nitrogen nute for veg. Should I just let it sit on top of the soil (one TBspoon) and then water? Or should I make it into tea?
I mix the meals into my soil before planting, both at the same time. For your situation in a 3 gallon pot, take a rounded tablespoon, sprinkle it on the soil's surface and scratch it in with a dinner fork. NO tea (it'll make its own in due time). It is a slow release N source which means it will take microbial action to convert it from an ammonical state to a nitrate where the plant can use it. It's a fairly fast conversion for being an organic if temps are moderate. Using room temp rainwater as a drench helps too.

UB
 

ManUTDfan

Active Member
But do you think there's a chance of over dose from blood meal? Can I use Iguana later on for the other elements the plant needs or should I ditch AN all together?

Thanks for the help UB
 

ManUTDfan

Active Member
Well I have watered once since, and I havent used any nutes. Now I just changed to HPS 400W 12hr on 12 hr off photoperiod to induce flowering. I'm going to be using both blood meal and bone meal, topping it on the soil as they are slow releasing? Thsi will hopefully solve the Nitrogen and Phosphorus def.

I will then start introducing both AN more Bloom less grow at maybe 600 ppm.

I will post you with updates a week or 2 from now :)
 

Exertion

Well-Known Member
Let me start off by saying hello and that I am new to this forum and let me just say from the little bit of reading around ive done on this forum the past week i want to thank the admins and community for all of the information and the want to help others with such an exciting hobby and without all of you many things would be much more difficult and maybe not even possible! I have attempted to grow 1.2 times with complete success (First harvest "Ice Weed" seed bank www.buydutchseeds.com) I am now on my 2nd week of the veg stage with the new babies (High Grade Mids) which im sure you will all get to meet soon enuff.

MANUTDFAN, I wanna say your taller plant has a [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Nitrogen dificiency given the fact that most of your larger leaves are the ones yellowing and not the smaller ones. What jumped out at me when viewing your pics was the close up on the bottom yellowed/damaged leaf which was right next to a smaller leaf that seemed completely fine.[/FONT]
 

ManUTDfan

Active Member
I'll update both of you guys in a week or two. Hopefully they will show sex as it has been 4 days 12/12 photo period.
 
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